When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Asking the tire gurus on this tire wear issue I’ve just now discovered. I have Michelin Pilot All Season 4s installed, on stock 19 inch wheels, so staggered setup and no rotations.
It’s about 32k miles on these tires and they’re at the last legs, almost to the wear bars. I was inspecting them and they seem to wear across the treads evenly, end to end. However, I noticed damage on the inner tread, the rubber seems to be breaking apart, just on the inner tread. See attached photos and red arrows pointing to the chipped rubber. These are the front tires. Both sides have this on inner tread. The car was aligned by dealer about two years ago, it still drives straight. I’ve had experience with inner tire wear when alignment is off where the inner edge becomes bald before other edge, this appears to be different so I’m not sure what’s causing this. Getting new tires this Thursday, going with Continental DWS 06 Plus this time around, since I’m not happy with the Michelin’s comfort/road noise. I’ve had the same tires on the E and C class and was happy, but on the S, seems so loud, maybe the weight of the car.. anyways, if anyone has an idea what is causing this, please advise. Thanks in advance!
I just had a similar problem on my 2017 SL550, a Michelin Pilot Super Sport 285/30ZR19 with just 13,000 miles on the tire. The inside tread is showing wear bars. I'm a 77-year-old guy driving in Florida, stuck in traffic 40% of the time, and when I am driving, the car is NEVER abused. The same model tires 255/35ZR19 on the fronts were installed at the same time as the rears, but the fronts are showing little, if any, tread wear.
Those look like cuts to me. It could be from gravel, or something metal left in the road. Think of the Concord crash when it ran over a metal strip on the tarmac, that's what your tire looks like, but very minor in your case. 99% of the time if it's due to the car it will be around the entire tire, not just in small places.
Replies to the above: No, never rotated because the factory 19 inch wheels are staggered setup.
Doing research, I thought it was damage from road too, but I find that very unlikely, being it is only the inner tread that is damaged, on both sides, all the way around the tire. If you look closely, it almost looks like there's a line next to the cracks, as if it's scraping? But there isn't any rubbing noises I've heard or scraping. Maybe a defect in the tires? The "chunking" or chipped tread goes all the way around the tire, but not across the whole tread, as you can see in the pic. If it was gravel, wouldn't the other parts of the tire also get damaged? I'm going to see if the tire shop (America's tire) could chime in when I take the car in, perhaps its a defect and I might get some pro-ration back under their "road hazard certificates".
Replies to the above: No, never rotated because the factory 19 inch wheels are staggered setup.
Doing research, I thought it was damage from road too, but I find that very unlikely, being it is only the inner tread that is damaged, on both sides, all the way around the tire. If you look closely, it almost looks like there's a line next to the cracks, as if it's scraping? But there isn't any rubbing noises I've heard or scraping. Maybe a defect in the tires? The "chunking" or chipped tread goes all the way around the tire, but not across the whole tread, as you can see in the pic. If it was gravel, wouldn't the other parts of the tire also get damaged? I'm going to see if the tire shop (America's tire) could chime in when I take the car in, perhaps its a defect and I might get some pro-ration back under their "road hazard certificates".
Gotcha. Nope, I believe these tires are directional and to rotate side to side would mean dismounting the tire each time. Didn't rotate them at all. They had balancing issues early on, but after that was resolved, ran smooth for 25k+ miles, just a bit noisy now since they're worn down.
Gotcha. Nope, I believe these tires are directional and to rotate side to side would mean dismounting the tire each time. Didn't rotate them at all. They had balancing issues early on, but after that was resolved, ran smooth for 25k+ miles, just a bit noisy now since they're worn down.
The guys at America's Tire (aka Discount Tire) can't definitely say what's causing it. They mentioned I ran through rough gravel? I said I had the similar thoughts, however, it's consistent wear in the inner tire on both sides and not across the tire, to which they agreed that would rule out rough gravel. They said likely culprit would be suspension related and I'd have to take it to a shop that can diagnose it.
W222 ‘S’ Class - Heavy vehicle and OEM there is no longer adjustment for Front Camber and Caster or Rear Camber !
Yet essential to prevent costly premature inner edge tire wear by allowing to adjust tire contact angles and spread load more evenly.
Deletion has been brought about by ever increasing speeds of new car assembly lines. Onus now back on owners to fund premature tire replacement.
Today the often quoted re-assuring “Full Front and Rear ‘4’ Wheel Alignment” - is in fact now only basic TOE “directional” adjustment. New car industry’s best kept secret.
We saw the need therefore to re-instate front and rear adjustment. BOLT-ON kits requiring no special tools or need for control arm removal to install.
K-MAC Unique Patented design allows easy access / single wrench adjustment. ULTIMATE direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
Ongoing adjustment to cater for high cambered roads with excess passenger side edge wear. Or inner edge wear both sides through load carrying or lowering. Outer edge wear through performance driving. Plus ability to compensate for curb knock damage.
SEE SPOILER W222 all models incl. 63/65 AMG
Spoiler
W222 ‘S’ SERIES (ALL INCL. 63/65 AMG)
FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front Control Arm Inner Bushes CAMBER (ONLY) #503016-1K $480 (Both Sides)
(Less than one quality tire)
CAMBER & CASTER #503016N $695 (Both Sides)
BEING A HEAVY VEHICLE THE ABOVE CAMBER AND CASTER BUSHES ALSO REPLACE THE 4 FRONT HIGHEST WEARING. THE CASTER BUSHES ARE ALSO MONO BALL / SELF ALIGNING. SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVING BRAKE AND STEERING RESPONSE.
REAR SUSPENSION
CAMBER (& EXTRA TOE) #502626K $480 (Both Sides)
ALSO FOR PERFORMANCE / IMPROVED TRACTION:
UPRATED BUSHINGS FOR THE ‘6’ REAR MULTI LINK ARMS #502928K $480 (Both Sides)
Tauter response. Less rear end flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
DHL Express Air Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra).
It's awesome that there are aftermarket kits for adjusting camber. However, if this is camber issue, then wouldn't all the W222s suffer the same issue with the tires? I've had camber alignment issues where there is excessive wear in the inner treads, but it's obvious as you'll sell it getting bald on the inside more than the outside. Looking at my tires, its barely wearing faster on the inside, and this is what I found normal camber with all mercs I've owned. They tend to run a little negative camber for better handling. My issue doesn't seem to be a negative camber issue, like the post above, I am leaning towards manufacturer defect on the inner tread. The rear tires don't have this issue and worn beautifully across the treads. The Michelin Pilot A/S 4 tires come with 45k mile warranty, but only 30k miles if staggered and no rotations. Granted I have 32K miles and still some life left on these tires, I think my alignment is pretty solid.
I'm now looking at the the tread design and I believe it's just the nature of the tread, once it's worn down. This is a design defect in my opinion. See below picture. The left arrows point to a thin "sipe" that goes all the way around the tire. On a new tire, this is very evident and useful. See my worn down tire, that "sipe" or groove is worn completely flush, and I think the "blocks" to the right of that groove is a weak point, so it break off easily. Let's see how these new Continentals hold up, they don't seem to have a weak point in tread design. So far I do love the more cushion and quiet feeling, hopefully it stays that way.
I had a similar problem inner tire worn out which caused by excessive tire pressure as well. However, yours look minimal to me .It must be something else . A Hunter Road Force could verify what caused it at least a bad camber adjustment or similar thing
Please keep us updated, I'm also interested in that weird damage
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
So I have written about this before and I think i even showed my install here. IT turns out German cars like to have camber adjusted in a way that improves handling BUT eats the inside of the tires. My Mayback did this bad on the REAR tires (lots of bad memories about tire failure).
A year or so before I sold the car I brought adjustable camber rods for the rear and installed them myself. You have to loosen the rear sub frame a little so it lowers to give you clearance to remove the camber rod bolt but aside from that it was pretty straight forward.
I then had an alignment done to adjust the camber so the tires run FLATTER down the road and this was the solution for me.
Katie
PS its been several years and my memory is not the best but i think i got the camber rods off ebay.
In looking at a new version in comparison to yours it looks like it's a load problem. Hear me out; it looks like overinflation, or underinflation. I realize you're running 19's staggered. 19's are going to have a lower load ratging than 20's on the same tire, and your fronts are not as wide as the rears. Take a look at the load rating and tire pressures.
Last edited by carlosinseattle; Apr 8, 2025 at 01:13 PM.
They tend to run a little negative camber for better handling. My issue doesn't seem to be a negative camber issue, like the post above, I am leaning towards manufacturer defect on the inner tread. The rear tires don't have this issue and worn beautifully across the treads. The Michelin Pilot A/S 4 tires come with 45k mile warranty, but only 30k miles if staggered and no rotations. Granted I have 32K miles and still some life left on these tires, I think my alignment is pretty solid.
You still have tread left at 32K miles--a tread that is worn rather equally across the footprint.
There is no indication of too much or too little camber, or toe for that mater.
So, I see no alignment issues.
I'm now looking at the the tread design and I believe it's just the nature of the tread, once it's worn down. This is a design defect in my opinion.
It could have been something as simple as running across a bridge paved with water-dispersant steel road surface that "got" a from tire without "getting" either rear tire.
So I have written about this before and I think i even showed my install here. IT turns out German cars like to have camber adjusted in a way that improves handling BUT eats the inside of the tires. My Mayback did this bad on the REAR tires (lots of bad memories about tire failure).
A year or so before I sold the car I brought adjustable camber rods for the rear and installed them myself. You have to loosen the rear sub frame a little so it lowers to give you clearance to remove the camber rod bolt but aside from that it was pretty straight forward.
I then had an alignment done to adjust the camber so the tires run FLATTER down the road and this was the solution for me.
Katie
PS its been several years and my memory is not the best but i think i got the camber rods off ebay.
As mentioned (#14) heavy vehicle and no front or rear Camber to adjust tire contact angles OEM !
For the rear yes we also manufacture “upper Camber arms” - but more difficult to fit and lot more difficult to adjust.
While the #502626K rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit for all W222 models - and also Maybach does not require arm removal or special tools. Adjustment is single wrench, easily accessible, fast accurate - direct on alignment rack under load. With more than enough adjustment to resolve outer edge premature tire wear issues.
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and Costs) Since 1964 !
I don't think it's a camber issue, nor did the tire shop say it's camber. Look at the bottom of the picture, you can see the wear bars on the tire. They're pretty much identical across the whole tire, maybe a hair lower on the inner tread, but not to the degree where you'd think it has camber issues. Remember, from factory it comes with negative camber, a lot of BMWs have it worse.
Anyways, I can't take anymore pics of the tires since they're gone now. Over inflation will cause the inner tread to be worn down first, outer edges worn if under inflated. I run +2 psi higher than the gas door's PSI and am adamant about re-checking my tires every season (I have them balanced and the shop airs them correctly).
The tire shop said suspension and described what would be more consistent with what's called "cupping"...but this was a uniform damage on the inner tread.
Perhaps OP would post up the printout that should be presented to the client every time an alignment is performed. It should be two images. First as the car reads for camber, toe, caster ect before adjustment. Second image after adjustment. Where there is an alignment issue it will be easy to pick out.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
