Greetings to the Community W222 Noob 80k Maintenance
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: West New York, NJ
2020 W222 S560 4matic 86K
Greetings to the Community W222 Noob 80k Maintenance
I cannot express in words how much communities just like this one have helped me over the years. Long before GPT, always admired the S class and happy owner of W220 years ago bought at 80k, rode with no problems until 140k besides the usual top seal strut leak which I resolved with some epoxy that gave them 3 more years and completely replacing rear shocks right on my driveway with no compression tools whatsoever. I was young at the time, but the runs that I did on that vehicle truly made me fall in love with german cars, not just for their safety, but also ability to stop, handle and stay in control.At that time, transmission modules used to go out, so I baked mine in the oven,. Getting it out of limp mode helped, but if body control was not enabled it can be disastrous. That gen is definitely wavy I can see that MB was in their beginnings with suspension/adaptation systems etc. Years later, I decided to give W222 a try. The only reason I bought this at 75k is bc of clean service records. Car spent most of its time in Long Island and serviced on time as per recommended schedule at 2 MB dealerships. Serviced on time and at the dealer is what really attracted me. I considered the newer gen, but I really like the Korean designer, I feel this car has much better lines than the newest one. First thing I did is replace engine, transmission and differential oil. On the way to balance the tires, I was quite shocked that not one shop had the socket to take the swollen bolts out to take off the wheels. Perhaps it was an amazing money making decision to put on those caps that swell, I do not see how the bolts would swell. At the end of the day, I had to get s full set of new bolts since pretty much all of them need hammering just to take them off. I did not realize that with AMG rims, the diameter between front and rear is different and that you swap left to right versus front and back then cris cross. The whole getting proper parts process has been very odd in the beginning. MB officials do not give part numbers out, at the same time, it is very unclear which parts to buy. The car is amg "package" so from my understanding just wheels and body kit. It came with run flats and I was shocked not to see a spare or a plastic donut in the trunk. I have to say the handling is superb, but I dont know how long the suspension will last. I read that the bladders are prone to failing also. At this time, I did not notice any drops over time unless it was below freezing temperatures, it dropped an inch which I think is within limits? I was wondering if it is normal for compressor to run for 10 seconds on start. I rarely hear it while driving. Does xentry have an option to check for leaks without gas chambers? I read that I can do some sort of diagnosis on that. Lastly, I wanted to invite people to suggestions on items to look out for. I noted vibrations in rear gear and during switch from 3rd to 2nd upon coming to standstill. It appears to be that when clutch plates or something are moving it would create this slight shudder. In sport, it would slam the gears faster so instead of the slow shudder you would feel the jolt. My plan is to replace the 2 engine mounts and the transmission mount, I wanted to confirm that the vibrations I am feeling from transmission are in fact due to worn out hydraulic engine mounts, the engine is heavy indeed. I also wanted to dig in and replace the tensioner, 2 pulleys and belt. Perhaps you guys can recommend some potential failures and things to consider, preemptive replacements to avoid further complications. One thing I did not mention, is I heard a knocking sound while letting go of gas - it turned out a major issue with front shaft banging on the bolts and potentially being ripped off and destroying everything around it. I am glad I caught it. You can catch a lot by listening. Perhaps you guys can recommend a stetoscope so that I can check the bearings and engine knocks. I would also like to ask about the proper way to charge the batteries. Is there a proper way to boost the batteries? I would prefer to take them out first and charge externally, would Nico genius 10 work or is it dangerous to MB batteries? Should I even attempt to boost or just buy the new battery and call it a day? Thanks for everything and any input is greatly appreciated!
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,217
Likes: 6,275
I cannot express in words how much communities just like this one have helped me over the years. Long before GPT, always admired the S class and happy owner of W220 years ago bought at 80k, rode with no problems until 140k besides the usual top seal strut leak which I resolved with some epoxy that gave them 3 more years and completely replacing rear shocks right on my driveway with no compression tools whatsoever. I was young at the time, but the runs that I did on that vehicle truly made me fall in love with german cars, not just for their safety, but also ability to stop, handle and stay in control.At that time, transmission modules used to go out, so I baked mine in the oven,. Getting it out of limp mode helped, but if body control was not enabled it can be disastrous. That gen is definitely wavy I can see that MB was in their beginnings with suspension/adaptation systems etc. Years later, I decided to give W222 a try. The only reason I bought this at 75k is bc of clean service records. Car spent most of its time in Long Island and serviced on time as per recommended schedule at 2 MB dealerships. Serviced on time and at the dealer is what really attracted me. I considered the newer gen, but I really like the Korean designer, I feel this car has much better lines than the newest one. First thing I did is replace engine, transmission and differential oil. On the way to balance the tires, I was quite shocked that not one shop had the socket to take the swollen bolts out to take off the wheels. Perhaps it was an amazing money making decision to put on those caps that swell, I do not see how the bolts would swell. At the end of the day, I had to get s full set of new bolts since pretty much all of them need hammering just to take them off. I did not realize that with AMG rims, the diameter between front and rear is different and that you swap left to right versus front and back then cris cross. The whole getting proper parts process has been very odd in the beginning. MB officials do not give part numbers out, at the same time, it is very unclear which parts to buy. The car is amg "package" so from my understanding just wheels and body kit. It came with run flats and I was shocked not to see a spare or a plastic donut in the trunk. I have to say the handling is superb, but I dont know how long the suspension will last. I read that the bladders are prone to failing also. At this time, I did not notice any drops over time unless it was below freezing temperatures, it dropped an inch which I think is within limits? I was wondering if it is normal for compressor to run for 10 seconds on start. I rarely hear it while driving. Does xentry have an option to check for leaks without gas chambers? I read that I can do some sort of diagnosis on that. Lastly, I wanted to invite people to suggestions on items to look out for. I noted vibrations in rear gear and during switch from 3rd to 2nd upon coming to standstill. It appears to be that when clutch plates or something are moving it would create this slight shudder. In sport, it would slam the gears faster so instead of the slow shudder you would feel the jolt. My plan is to replace the 2 engine mounts and the transmission mount, I wanted to confirm that the vibrations I am feeling from transmission are in fact due to worn out hydraulic engine mounts, the engine is heavy indeed. I also wanted to dig in and replace the tensioner, 2 pulleys and belt. Perhaps you guys can recommend some potential failures and things to consider, preemptive replacements to avoid further complications. One thing I did not mention, is I heard a knocking sound while letting go of gas - it turned out a major issue with front shaft banging on the bolts and potentially being ripped off and destroying everything around it. I am glad I caught it. You can catch a lot by listening. Perhaps you guys can recommend a stetoscope so that I can check the bearings and engine knocks. I would also like to ask about the proper way to charge the batteries. Is there a proper way to boost the batteries? I would prefer to take them out first and charge externally, would Nico genius 10 work or is it dangerous to MB batteries? Should I even attempt to boost or just buy the new battery and call it a day? Thanks for everything and any input is greatly appreciated!
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,217
Likes: 6,275
I cannot express in words how much communities just like this one have helped me over the years.
Long before GPT, always admired the S class and happy owner of W220 years ago. Bought at 80k, rode with no problems until 140k besides the usual top seal strut leak which I resolved with some epoxy that gave them 3 more years and completely replacing rear shocks right on my driveway with no compression tools whatsoever.
I was young at the time, but the runs that I did on that vehicle truly made me fall in love with german cars, not just for their safety, but also ability to stop, handle and stay in control.At that time, transmission modules used to go out, so I baked mine in the oven,. Getting it out of limp mode helped, but if body control was not enabled it can be disastrous. That gen is definitely wavy I can see that MB was in their beginnings with suspension/adaptation systems etc.
Years later, I decided to give W222 a try. The only reason I bought this at 75k is bc of clean service records. Car spent most of its time in Long Island and serviced on time as per recommended schedule at 2 MB dealerships. Serviced on time and at the dealer is what really attracted me.
I considered the newer gen, but I really like the Korean designer, I feel this car has much better lines than the newest one.
First thing I did is replace engine, transmission and differential oil. On the way to balance the tires, I was quite shocked that not one shop had the socket to take the swollen bolts out to take off the wheels. Perhaps it was an amazing money making decision to put on those caps that swell, I do not see how the bolts would swell.
At the end of the day, I had to get s full set of new bolts since pretty much all of them need hammering just to take them off. I did not realize that with AMG rims, the diameter between front and rear is different and that you swap left to right versus front and back then cris cross.
The whole getting proper parts process has been very odd in the beginning. MB officials do not give part numbers out, at the same time, it is very unclear which parts to buy. The car is amg "package" so from my understanding just wheels and body kit. It came with run flats and I was shocked not to see a spare or a plastic donut in the trunk.
I have to say the handling is superb, but I dont know how long the suspension will last. I read that the bladders are prone to failing also. At this time, I did not notice any drops over time unless it was below freezing temperatures, it dropped an inch which I think is within limits?
Questions:
I was wondering if it is normal for compressor to run for 10 seconds on start. I rarely hear it while driving.
Does xentry have an option to check for leaks without gas chambers? I read that I can do some sort of diagnosis on that.
Lastly, I wanted to invite people to suggestions on items to look out for.
I noted vibrations in rear gear and during switch from 3rd to 2nd upon coming to standstill. It appears to be that when clutch plates or something are moving it would create this slight shudder.
In sport, it would slam the gears faster so instead of the slow shudder you would feel the jolt.
My plan is to replace the 2 engine mounts and the transmission mount, I wanted to confirm that the vibrations I am feeling from transmission are in fact due to worn out hydraulic engine mounts, the engine is heavy indeed.
I also wanted to dig in and replace the tensioner, 2 pulleys and belt.
Questions
Perhaps you guys can recommend some potential failures and things to consider, preemptive replacements to avoid further complications.
One thing I did not mention, is I heard a knocking sound while letting go of gas - it turned out a major issue with front shaft banging on the bolts and potentially being ripped off and destroying everything around it. I am glad I caught it.
You can catch a lot by listening.
Perhaps you guys can recommend a stetoscope so that I can check the bearings and engine knocks.
I would also like to ask about the proper way to charge the batteries. Is there a proper way to boost the batteries?
I would prefer to take them out first and charge externally, would Nico genius 10 work or is it dangerous to MB batteries?
Should I even attempt to boost or just buy the new battery and call it a day?
Thanks for everything and any input is greatly appreciated!
Long before GPT, always admired the S class and happy owner of W220 years ago. Bought at 80k, rode with no problems until 140k besides the usual top seal strut leak which I resolved with some epoxy that gave them 3 more years and completely replacing rear shocks right on my driveway with no compression tools whatsoever.
I was young at the time, but the runs that I did on that vehicle truly made me fall in love with german cars, not just for their safety, but also ability to stop, handle and stay in control.At that time, transmission modules used to go out, so I baked mine in the oven,. Getting it out of limp mode helped, but if body control was not enabled it can be disastrous. That gen is definitely wavy I can see that MB was in their beginnings with suspension/adaptation systems etc.
Years later, I decided to give W222 a try. The only reason I bought this at 75k is bc of clean service records. Car spent most of its time in Long Island and serviced on time as per recommended schedule at 2 MB dealerships. Serviced on time and at the dealer is what really attracted me.
I considered the newer gen, but I really like the Korean designer, I feel this car has much better lines than the newest one.
First thing I did is replace engine, transmission and differential oil. On the way to balance the tires, I was quite shocked that not one shop had the socket to take the swollen bolts out to take off the wheels. Perhaps it was an amazing money making decision to put on those caps that swell, I do not see how the bolts would swell.
At the end of the day, I had to get s full set of new bolts since pretty much all of them need hammering just to take them off. I did not realize that with AMG rims, the diameter between front and rear is different and that you swap left to right versus front and back then cris cross.
The whole getting proper parts process has been very odd in the beginning. MB officials do not give part numbers out, at the same time, it is very unclear which parts to buy. The car is amg "package" so from my understanding just wheels and body kit. It came with run flats and I was shocked not to see a spare or a plastic donut in the trunk.
I have to say the handling is superb, but I dont know how long the suspension will last. I read that the bladders are prone to failing also. At this time, I did not notice any drops over time unless it was below freezing temperatures, it dropped an inch which I think is within limits?
Questions:
I was wondering if it is normal for compressor to run for 10 seconds on start. I rarely hear it while driving.
Does xentry have an option to check for leaks without gas chambers? I read that I can do some sort of diagnosis on that.
Lastly, I wanted to invite people to suggestions on items to look out for.
I noted vibrations in rear gear and during switch from 3rd to 2nd upon coming to standstill. It appears to be that when clutch plates or something are moving it would create this slight shudder.
In sport, it would slam the gears faster so instead of the slow shudder you would feel the jolt.
My plan is to replace the 2 engine mounts and the transmission mount, I wanted to confirm that the vibrations I am feeling from transmission are in fact due to worn out hydraulic engine mounts, the engine is heavy indeed.
I also wanted to dig in and replace the tensioner, 2 pulleys and belt.
Questions
Perhaps you guys can recommend some potential failures and things to consider, preemptive replacements to avoid further complications.
One thing I did not mention, is I heard a knocking sound while letting go of gas - it turned out a major issue with front shaft banging on the bolts and potentially being ripped off and destroying everything around it. I am glad I caught it.
You can catch a lot by listening.
Perhaps you guys can recommend a stetoscope so that I can check the bearings and engine knocks.
I would also like to ask about the proper way to charge the batteries. Is there a proper way to boost the batteries?
I would prefer to take them out first and charge externally, would Nico genius 10 work or is it dangerous to MB batteries?
Should I even attempt to boost or just buy the new battery and call it a day?
Thanks for everything and any input is greatly appreciated!
Reason why I did it is so OP's post actually gets read and he gets the help he needs for the problem he faces with the vehicle. Please kindly see the quote above.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,217
Likes: 6,275
Questions OP asked:
"I was wondering if it is normal for compressor to run for 10 seconds on start. I rarely hear it while driving.
Does xentry have an option to check for leaks without gas chambers? I read that I can do some sort of diagnosis on that.
Lastly, I wanted to invite people to suggestions on items to look out for.
I noted vibrations in rear gear and during switch from 3rd to 2nd upon coming to standstill. It appears to be that when clutch plates or something are moving it would create this slight shudder.
In sport, it would slam the gears faster so instead of the slow shudder you would feel the jolt.
My plan is to replace the 2 engine mounts and the transmission mount, I wanted to confirm that the vibrations I am feeling from transmission are in fact due to worn out hydraulic engine mounts, the engine is heavy indeed.
I also wanted to dig in and replace the tensioner, 2 pulleys and belt.
Perhaps you guys can recommend some potential failures and things to consider, preemptive replacements to avoid further complications.
One thing I did not mention, is I heard a knocking sound while letting go of gas - it turned out a major issue with front shaft banging on the bolts and potentially being ripped off and destroying everything around it. I am glad I caught it.
You can catch a lot by listening.
Perhaps you guys can recommend a stetoscope so that I can check the bearings and engine knocks.
I would also like to ask about the proper way to charge the batteries. Is there a proper way to boost the batteries?
I would prefer to take them out first and charge externally, would Nico genius 10 work or is it dangerous to MB batteries?
Should I even attempt to boost or just buy the new battery and call it a day?
Thanks for everything and any input is greatly appreciated!"
"I was wondering if it is normal for compressor to run for 10 seconds on start. I rarely hear it while driving.
Does xentry have an option to check for leaks without gas chambers? I read that I can do some sort of diagnosis on that.
Lastly, I wanted to invite people to suggestions on items to look out for.
I noted vibrations in rear gear and during switch from 3rd to 2nd upon coming to standstill. It appears to be that when clutch plates or something are moving it would create this slight shudder.
In sport, it would slam the gears faster so instead of the slow shudder you would feel the jolt.
My plan is to replace the 2 engine mounts and the transmission mount, I wanted to confirm that the vibrations I am feeling from transmission are in fact due to worn out hydraulic engine mounts, the engine is heavy indeed.
I also wanted to dig in and replace the tensioner, 2 pulleys and belt.
Perhaps you guys can recommend some potential failures and things to consider, preemptive replacements to avoid further complications.
One thing I did not mention, is I heard a knocking sound while letting go of gas - it turned out a major issue with front shaft banging on the bolts and potentially being ripped off and destroying everything around it. I am glad I caught it.
You can catch a lot by listening.
Perhaps you guys can recommend a stetoscope so that I can check the bearings and engine knocks.
I would also like to ask about the proper way to charge the batteries. Is there a proper way to boost the batteries?
I would prefer to take them out first and charge externally, would Nico genius 10 work or is it dangerous to MB batteries?
Should I even attempt to boost or just buy the new battery and call it a day?
Thanks for everything and any input is greatly appreciated!"
