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I have 20s and I run 32 fronts and 35 rear cold tire pressure. I think I have that correct. I can’t remember off hand which side is supposed to be higher.
I filled it up to 35 in the front and the light is still on even after driving several miles.
If you are going to run 35 all the way around, I would suggest after inflating all 4 tires to 35, get in car and drive. Go into menu fro the steering wheel and go over to Assyst Plus or service. Can’t remember which one, then go to tire pressure, and when asked if you want to store this reading as your tire pressure, select yes. Now the car will monitor pressure based off of your new reading.
If you are going to run 35 all the way around, I would suggest after inflating all 4 tires to 35, get in car and drive. Go into menu fro the steering wheel and go over to Assyst Plus or service. Can’t remember which one, then go to tire pressure, and when asked if you want to store this reading as your tire pressure, select yes. Now the car will monitor pressure based off of your new reading.
Go 38 PSI as we approach winter. Also consider the fact the S580e is wayyy heavier than the s580 and you need to have adequate pressure in the tire to handle that loading. I found that I be the magic tire pressure number.
Don: that’s fantastic for your car, but does not seem correct for the S580e. I know because my car tires were 33 this AM (and 37 right now). This AM I had SIX systems down in the car. I strongly advise higher pressures for the S580E
If you lower the pressure out of the prescribed window you have to go in as described above and tell it to accept the new pressures as the set pressure, or you'll get the errors. Sometimes you have to do it twice, it's not always convinced on the first attempt. It can also simply forget about it randomly here and there, same fix. Quite a few folks here have had mystery errors as winter approaches and things cool down. It's a thing. In any event just go to the driver display all the way to the right and tell it you want to keep the new pressures and you're usually golden after your next complete shut down. If you let it go long enough you can eventually get to where the center screen wont come on, same fix and after a complete shut down the screen will come back.
No matter which car am driving, I always go with 4 PSI lower than the manufacturer recommended pressure. This guarantees that I am just 4 PSI away from the recommended cold pressure, and getting a ride that is soft as reasonable possible. I used to run 35-36 PSI on the S-class.
This has become an interesting difference of opinion. Tire pressure that’s optimum is better than higher or lower. Optimum has to do with how much force the tire is exerting back and the load placed on it. If you drive really slow then a lower pressure makes sense. But if you’re on the highway a lot or have a full car, the downforce needs to be matched by a properly filled tire to maintain integrity and avoid a blow out. A poorly filled tire that hits a pothole will bend your rim or cause a blowout. The recommended cold pressures and tire max inflation are the guide. Somewhere in there makes sense depending on your application. Resetting the TPMS helps clear errors, but doesn’t address the potential problems. This car is a beast. It is heavy and not a performance car. Engine in the front, Battery pack in the back. The logic of a lower pressure tire on a track car makes sense because the tires heat up. But on a 6700 lbs vehicle, you need to make sure the tires are giving a good contact patch but not deforming which means you need adequate/higher cold pressure fill. Anyone want to give a counter opinion?
We run much higher pressures for longer tread and rim life. Side benefit is better fuel economy. No harm in running them into the 40+ PSI ranges as per MB and the suspension is soft enough anyway IMO.
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