Well the Dyno numbers are in
560 rwhp seems a little high, don't you think.
I believe my 63 would have been 430-460 to get 525bhp!
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Other cars that we have dynoed (its my buddy's shop) is my 87 Buick GN. The car dynoed at 409 RWHP and 419 RWTQ. The car runs 7.39 in the 1/8 @ 93 MPH and weighs a ton!

The Dyno for the S65 was done with K&N filters, minus the little tube that bends down from the air filter housing to the front grill, pump 91 octane fuel, cooled down engine (below 80* C when we made the pass) fans on the engine and in front of the engine (duh) and stock everything else (wheels, tires, ECM, etc, etc). A pass made right after that (with the engine still hot) made 20RWHP less and 16 RWTQ less. This is in 81* F temp.

In stock form on DynoJet any 65 AMG will range from 490-530 rwhp TOPS, though your rwtq reading is close to stock IE 630-650 rwtq on ANY DynoJet... Dyno's don't tell the whole tale, I'd be very concerned about that AFR though def knocking/detonation lean range (UNLESS it was as I previously stated Hi-Oct tune set for & running about 110 oct)
Last edited by Thericker; Jun 30, 2010 at 12:48 AM.
There is no way in hell you're only losing 6% on HP and 15% on torque...? Powertrain loss is powertrain loss. It's usually calculated as a single percentage for both HP and TQ. The more accepted values are 18% for MB's. Then again, that's for 5 speed tranny's...
And why is your power dipping so hard at 3200 RPM? Were you shifting? Looks like the car fell on it's face there.
That torque curve looks pathetic. And I don't say that to sound like a jerk. It's not very flat and it seems to come on pretty late. See attached picture of a nice "flat" power curve.
Find out what dyno make you were on. Manufacturers vary in their numbers. Some, are generous, some are less so when it comes to the numbers they show.
Dynos are pretty much useless, if you want to really know the power you're making, run in the 1/4 mile.

Edit: And I agre with Sean, 14:1 AFR is a little on the high side...
Last edited by Sathinas; Jun 30, 2010 at 12:32 AM.
Here is a cool dyno chart to check out. Notice the air fuels too. She does run a tick lean to start but then hangs a roughly 12.5 for the rest of the run.
There is no way in hell you're only losing 6% on HP and 15% on torque...? Powertrain loss is powertrain loss. It's usually calculated as a single percentage for both HP and TQ. The more accepted values are 18% for MB's. Then again, that's for 5 speed tranny's...
And why is your power dipping so hard at 3200 RPM? Were you shifting? Looks like the car fell on it's face there.
That torque curve looks pathetic. And I don't say that to sound like a jerk. It's not very flat and it seems to come on pretty late. See attached picture of a nice "flat" power curve.
Find out what dyno make you were on. Manufacturers vary in their numbers. Some, are generous, some are less so when it comes to the numbers they show.
Dynos are pretty much useless, if you want to really know the power you're making, run in the 1/4 mile.

Edit: And I agre with Sean, 14:1 AFR is a little on the high side...
As for the inner-coolers, yeah we had ice on them on a few pulls but didnt see much of a difference, maybe 10-18 more HP. But even with the inner-coolers iced, the car would still compensate. The charge air sensors would read the inlet air temp and adjust the fuel ratio in open loop. The reason you are seeing the 14.7:1 (stoch) is because the cats were really hot and working as advertised. You cant get an accurate A/F ration running through cats as the cats will clean up the HC's and Co's making the car look lean. Something running this lean under boost would make the car knock and misfire and it would show on the Dyno.
But if you think these numbers are "inflated" feel free to take a drive to SD and throw your car on the Dyno to see what it makes. If the Dyno is off, your car should make similar numbers. If the Dyno is not, then lets see what really happens. And this car IS going to the track so hold on to your panties people!

As for the inner-coolers, yeah we had ice on them on a few pulls but didnt see much of a difference, maybe 10-18 more HP. But even with the inner-coolers iced, the car would still compensate. The charge air sensors would read the inlet air temp and adjust the fuel ratio in open loop. The reason you are seeing the 14.7:1 (stoch) is because the cats were really hot and working as advertised. You cant get an accurate A/F ration running through cats as the cats will clean up the HC's and Co's making the car look lean. Something running this lean under boost would make the car knock and misfire and it would show on the Dyno.
But if you think these numbers are "inflated" feel free to take a drive to SD and throw your car on the Dyno to see what it makes. If the Dyno is off, your car should make similar numbers. If the Dyno is not, then lets see what really happens. And this car IS going to the track so hold on to your panties people!


Tom
The V12's are known for underrated HP who knows, maybe yours is one of nature. Best bet is to take it to the track. Slap on some drag radials and that will be your story teller.
As for the inner-coolers, yeah we had ice on them on a few pulls but didnt see much of a difference, maybe 10-18 more HP. But even with the inner-coolers iced, the car would still compensate. The charge air sensors would read the inlet air temp and adjust the fuel ratio in open loop. The reason you are seeing the 14.7:1 (stoch) is because the cats were really hot and working as advertised. You cant get an accurate A/F ration running through cats as the cats will clean up the HC's and Co's making the car look lean. Something running this lean under boost would make the car knock and misfire and it would show on the Dyno.
But if you think these numbers are "inflated" feel free to take a drive to SD and throw your car on the Dyno to see what it makes. If the Dyno is off, your car should make similar numbers. If the Dyno is not, then lets see what really happens. And this car IS going to the track so hold on to your panties people!


But, if you really want to keep your head in the ground about the numbers you're getting, then... more power to you. People have been telling you that those numbers are on the high side for a reason. So of them have been playing on dynos with their TT V12's a little longer than you. What do they know...
Furthermore the cats being hot is your reasoning for wacky LEAN AFR's you're out their buddy...I've had my SL smoking hot off frwy 2 1/2 drive to Dyno then ran repeatedly every 15 min for 4-5 hours, Cat's were RED hot AFR's never ran above 12.0
Lastly when adding Ice to cool the IC's it tricks the ECU into thinking the IAT's are much cooler than ambient temps & compensates by LEANING out your fuel, when I did the same Ice trick for extra HP we saw the AFR's go to 12.8-12.9 on race fuel too
What are inner-coolers lolol So in reality take away gains from Icing Intercoolers 25-30 rwhp & another 10-15 rwp for running in WRONG gear = 568 rwhp reading really is about 523-533 rwhp REAL WORLD...
School session... Notice this RENNtech ECU/TCU S65 set/TUNED for 110 Octane Pay CLOSE attention to AFR'S Even this S65 AFR isn't 14.0 it's 13.6-13.8 MAX @ Redline that's where AFR's matter the most, & yours are @ 14.+ during REDLINE very bad.

Lastly TRUE AFR reading will be right behind the cats, NOT from tailpipes...
Last edited by Thericker; Jun 30, 2010 at 10:19 PM.
As for the inner-coolers, yeah we had ice on them on a few pulls but didnt see much of a difference, maybe 10-18 more HP. But even with the inner-coolers iced, the car would still compensate. The charge air sensors would read the inlet air temp and adjust the fuel ratio in open loop. The reason you are seeing the 14.7:1 (stoch) is because the cats were really hot and working as advertised. You cant get an accurate A/F ration running through cats as the cats will clean up the HC's and Co's making the car look lean. Something running this lean under boost would make the car knock and misfire and it would show on the Dyno.
If the Dyno is not, then lets see what really happens. And this car IS going to the track so hold on to your panties people!


Since you're a proclaimed (8) year 1/4 mile track expert you'd know full well, that the TRAP mph speed would be SOLID proof of the cars TRUE power NOT ET's from poorly prepped track's etc.. But you already knew ALL that right?
Since you're a proclaimed (8) year 1/4 mile track expert you'd know full well, that the TRAP mph speed would be SOLID proof of the cars TRUE power NOT ET's from poorly prepped track's etc.. But you already knew ALL that right?

As for the Wide Band O2 Sensor, I again am no expert in it, but I know how they work and I also know that we have Dynoed other vehicles (Mustangs, Corvettes, etc) and on SOME of them with stock CATS the A/F reads 14.7:1. The so Wide Band is useless for tuning in that case.
Also I said I made 568 RWHP not 586 (huge difference) and if I knew this post was going to be corrected grammatically I would have double checked my spelling for all you "professors" out there looking to criticize everything.
SO really, whats with all the "disbelief" and hostility? I dynoed my car, posted a graph, told you it was stock (as far as I know) and everyone starts attacking the results. Like Im lying or something. I told you how it was done and didnt lie about anything. And instead of getting something like "Man, those are some good numbers but a little high for stock. You might wanna keep an eye on those A/F ratio numbers cause they are kinda high" I get "I say the Dyno is off" or "that has to be a modded ECM". I bought the car used and all I did was put pump gas and dyno it. Replace the stock filters, cool the engine and ice the I/C's. Here is my results.
Also, I never said I didnt know what type of dyno we where using. I figured that the Dyno sheet would have been enough to show it was a DYNOJET but I see someone is struggling in the reading compression part. Its okay, thats what we are here for.
Actually let me re-phrase that since I re-read EVERYONES posts. Only a couple of you are being "negative". The rest of you I appreciate your replies and advice! Thanks guys! For those negative ones, if this is going to turn into a pisses contest Im not going to go there.
But for the others suggesting what may have been done to the car already thanks in advance! I see a few of you are concerned about the A/F ratio being high. Thanks and next time I will try to get a better/accurate reading of the A/F. If its still high then I will stay off the gas until I get the ECM re-tuned. Once we buy some tires and wheels I will make a few passes at the track and see what it does.
Corsa9000, Tom, V12GodSpeed, sound 8, JackPro1 and the few other positive people, thank you for your posts. You are true gentlemen. As for the rest, I do not want to judge anyone right off the bat. I may have read things out of context so I would rather not judge and observe for now. But please dont think I dont take advice or criticism well. Thanks again for your time!
The previous owner before Vic. was a 57 year old Surgeon and had 9 cars...SO no way he did a single thing to that car....... and he actually traded the car in for a ZR1...
Victor is a great guy....and was working around these cars when they were new...he like most of us couldnt afford a $200k car...now he owns one...as we do as well and appreciate them as PLATINUM...
SINCE THERE WILL BE NO MORE 65'S after this year..2011...Very sad news but also this will bring our cars out of the stupid pricing level and should bring the value up a bit.....I guarantee it....
ALSO Some 65's run better then others...I had my last stock S65 ran 122 the 1/4 @11.5....STOCK peeps...STOCK................
Maybe all my cars I sell are just damn impressive?
The CL65 I am selling now with 80k miles..car is solid as a rock....drives like a freaking 10k car...gotta love Mercedes...it also.burns through 60 mph on dry pavement with brand new F1's....it is also STOCK....
not bad FOR A CAR COSTING $38K---lets see any other car do that with a/c seats and looks to match
That Flint grey sure was...A BARGAIN .......
THOSE WHO DRIVE 65'S are the elite auto enthusiasts...the smart car guys ...I call them....simply for knowing they posses a car with more power then any production car in the world.....also very few yuppies know about them......and if they did...no 65 would be for sale.......Let those yuppies keep drivng their C63's and E55's and M45's AND M5's and SRT8's...when they could of had a REAL man's car for the same loot....I actually think the ones who go out and buy a C63 or G37 for $50k or a E63 are suckers....
see I can say that here...I will get my *** handed to me on the other side.....but it is TRUE what I say....
My best times are when I hang out with friends with my 65 and some yuppie dude says hey I just bought a M3...a great car ...I paid $55k...I got a deal....I say really? You could of bought a CL65...they say what is that? I say that car u see right there...oh a Mercedes? Yes sir....the most powerful car ever built....NO WAY!! They will say...I said yeah google it and then ask yourself why you dropped $55k on a car that competes with a G37s........when u could of had a $200k supercar for less then what you just paid......priceless....
65'S are the baddest cars on the planet....PERIOD....
You will get tired of a GTR ...I own one...You will get tired of a Porsche
you will get tired of driving a LAMBO or FERRARI...BMW's are for EX-Infinit owners....
You will never get tired of owning a 600HP Mercedes....I know..I own 3 right now....and just sold my GTR to my brother....
Last edited by retardedmunk; Jun 30, 2010 at 11:50 PM.





