When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got mine running on the Holley. I'll start tuning it tomorrow. Hopefully I can make it to the track before the end of the season to see if it improved my times.
Great news. I have mine wired. Just need to plumb cooling and fuel and I'll be ready to go.
Do you have the information on how many teeth the crank trigger has (I believe it has 2 teeth missing as the signal) and also what the relation is to TDC (ie 90 degrees, 180 degrees etc)??
Great news. I have mine wired. Just need to plumb cooling and fuel and I'll be ready to go.
Do you have the information on how many teeth the crank trigger has (I believe it has 2 teeth missing as the signal) and also what the relation is to TDC (ie 90 degrees, 180 degrees etc)??
The crank sensor signal is a 60-2 (or 58x), meaning 60 teeth with 2 missing, or 6 degrees per tooth.
The offset is 11 teeth, meaning the crank sensor sees the missing teeth at 66 degrees before the #1 cylinder hits TDC. I haven't measured this myself yet, since I don't have an engine laying around, but that's the information I got from loggato and it's what I have programmed right now.
hey you are in tampa as well? let me know if you need any help!! looks very nice!!
Just joined the Forum. Currently planning to manual swap my 99' SL500 and I'm trying to make sure I get all the part. Living in Tampa and I would like to see how everyone did the conversions
The crank sensor signal is a 60-2 (or 58x), meaning 60 teeth with 2 missing, or 6 degrees per tooth.
The offset is 11 teeth, meaning the crank sensor sees the missing teeth at 66 degrees before the #1 cylinder hits TDC. I haven't measured this myself yet, since I don't have an engine laying around, but that's the information I got from loggato and it's what I have programmed right now.
This information is invaluable. I finally got back on my project so Im hoping to get the engine running in a few weeks
Hi guys!
Ive recently finished my project on Lexus IS mk1 with m113 5.4 n/a and 716.667 gearbox, using Vems standalone ECU. The car is for a drift competition use and l am slightly worried about the gearbox limits, yet after a few practice sessions all seems OK, except we can not reach the real potential of the engine. Been dyno'ing it couple days ago and we are lacking of engine performance... at least 100hp and 100nm are missing... Currently running on E85. Not sure where this came from and my Ecu programmer seems to be lost here. Have changed the spark plugs, bigger injectors and all the engine maintenance is done so a bit confused about where did we gone wrong. Sparks are firing at the same time, but the engine seems to wrestle some issues at the low revs, also not reaching its potential at highs.
Any ideas?
Also, been searching for 716.667 gearbox limits over the forums but could not find any decent info. I can see some guys going for it on m113k, but how long does it last?
Appreciate any comments
Thanks!
That's not a lot to go on, but I would start by checking for vacuum leaks, especially at the front hose on the intake manifold. They are not really replaceable, so be careful as you inspect it not to break it off. Also, do you have the ECU switching the manifold changeover valve? If that is not hooked up, or has its logic reversed, you would get a funny power curve.
That's not a lot to go on, but I would start by checking for vacuum leaks, especially at the front hose on the intake manifold. They are not really replaceable, so be careful as you inspect it not to break it off. Also, do you have the ECU switching the manifold changeover valve? If that is not hooked up, or has its logic reversed, you would get a funny power curve.
The vacuums are fine and Ecu is switching the changeover valve, Im just not sure how can its logic be reversed? Yes we have a funny power curve when 250hp goes in a straight line from 2 to 6k rpm, and the torque reaches its peak at 5500rpm which is not what these engines should be like. We havent got torque at 3300rpm where it should be the biggest.
Thanks!
What is your control strategy for the changeover valve? I never learned enough about it to program mine before I went supercharged. You should try forcing it open for a whole dyno pull and then force it closed for another pull and compare the results.
It was running pretty rich at first. I've adjusted a few things since then and idles and runs a lot cleaner now. Hopefully a professional tuner will get it roaring.
I'll try to collate all of the information soon on wiring and set up for anyone else that is going to run a Haltech ecu on one of these engines (or similar)
[QUOTE=loggato;7479662]I've had an M113 4.3 in my SLK for over a year now. running great on MegaSquirt to get around all the adaptation issues with the ECU
currently swapping a 6 speed from a Crossfire into it.
This is awesome! I saw your video below of it running on the stand, and your work with the manual trans. Gotta say I'm impressed. Hoping you can offer some Insight to a problem having. I'm currently fitting an elite 2500 on a m113 in an 06 slk55 amg. How did you make your ignition system work? Right now I have mine set up on a Hpi8 to the factory coils, but can't get enough spark to run. I can get it to start if I run bank 2(cyl 5-8) on the factory ecu and bank 1 (cylinder 1-4) on the haltech, but it only runs in limp mode. Won't accept any throttle input and runs extremely rough. It won't run At all on all 8cyls through the haltech or with the factory unhooked from bank 2. I've got 12v to pin 2 (center pin) and hpi8 trigger outputs to pin1 and 3 on the factory coils. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've had an M113 4.3 in my SLK for over a year now. running great on MegaSquirt to get around all the adaptation issues with the ECU
currently swapping a 6 speed from a Crossfire into it.
This is awesome! I saw your video below of it running on the stand, and your work with the manual trans. Gotta say I'm impressed. Hoping you can offer some Insight to a problem having. I'm currently fitting an elite 2500 on a m113 in an 06 slk55 amg. How did you make your ignition system work? Right now I have mine set up on a Hpi8 to the factory coils, but can't get enough spark to run. I can get it to start if I run bank 2(cyl 5-8) on the factory ecu and bank 1 (cylinder 1-4) on the haltech, but it only runs in limp mode. Won't accept any throttle input and runs extremely rough. It won't run At all on all 8cyls through the haltech or with the factory unhooked from bank 2. I've got 12v to pin 2 (center pin) and hpi8 trigger outputs to pin1 and 3 on the factory coils. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I ran 2 x hpi8 ignitors on advice from Haltech. I split the output from the ecu for each coil and sent to both HPI boxes.
So I got a 2nd hpi8 and wired everything up. Still can't get a spark. Sent the ecu and hpi into haltec for testing and they confirmed everything works as it should. Is there anything special that has to be done with the immobilizer or some other unexpected situation?
I can draw up a diagram for the coils in a few mins.
First few questions would be - how are your crank and cam sensors configured? I had no spark at all at first as that was all set up incorrectly. I'll post my set up in a few mins too.
Second is do your coils have 1 12v positive wire each? The HPI units are used to ground the coil(s) (since there are 2 coils in each unit on the merc) to make them fire
I can draw up a diagram for the coils in a few mins.
First few questions would be - how are your crank and cam sensors configured? I had no spark at all at first as that was all set up incorrectly. I'll post my set up in a few mins too.
Second is do your coils have 1 12v positive wire each? The HPI units are used to ground the coil(s) (since there are 2 coils in each unit on the merc) to make them fire
yes, they each have the 12v from the main harness, since I'm wiring in parallel, haltech told me to use that for my 12v. Rick from haltech did a remote in and set my crank and cam patterns himself, but I believe they're set to crank: 60-2 missing tooth, full sync, and I can't remember what the cam is set to at the moment. I have the coils wired as 12v to the center pin and 1 hpi output wired to each outer pin on the coils. Thanks a ton. I'll be watching for the setups you post.
I'll check all the setting tomorrow, but I think mine are a bit different to some of yours. I know my min and max throttle are 0.5 and 99.5 and I think some others may be different too. Thanks for the info.
I'm not sure where to even set the dwell. I havent seen that setting anywhere, but ill look for it also tomorrow, while checking the others. Thank you for that, Joe.
checked all the settings today and they were all pretty close to what you have shown. I went ahead and changed the few different settings to match, but no dice. I checked voltage at the 12v (center pin) on the factory harness and as soon as the haltech powers up, the ecu pulls the 12v, so I wired in a relay into the ignition circuit and tried to start it. Still no start, but I didn't pull a plug or coil to check for spark yet...out of play time for today...I emailed Rick @haltech to see if he has any other ideas...I never could find where to set any dwell time in the settings though, all I see is constant charge but no option to change that, at least that I can see.
what basemap did you use to initially start yours on the haltech?
I didn't initially mess with the maps.
Have you confirmed you're getting a spark now? I ran mine first with no plugs in the engine. I just plugged 2 into one of the (pair of) coils to confirm I could see it sparking.
Have you confirmed you're getting a spark now? I ran mine first with no plugs in the engine. I just plugged 2 into one of the (pair of) coils to confirm I could see it sparking.
I ran a relay and gave it its own power (12v) supply today. I got 12v at the center pin, but the engine still wouldn't start, or even try. I'm not getting the falling edge signal from the hpi units or even from the elite itself. Like I get on the oscilloscope from the factory ecu. The signal I get is just an erratic mess. The factory ecu puts out a very distinct and repeatable signal, but not the haltech. I checked at every output wire from each hpu, and every output wire from the ecu harness before it splits into the hpi units. I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the ecu and it just won't carry a load. It bench tested (at haltech) fine and all showed to work, but the signals I'm getting look like a bad day at the stock market.
10-07-2019 | 07:20 PM
