New to me S55
Been looking for quite a long time at buying an E55 or S55 but one happened to fall in my lap a town over for what I felt was a good price. Car has 120K on it (yes I know very high mileage) it is a 2003 and I know the guy before me did not take care of it well in the year he owned it but prior to that all Mercedes dealer maintenance and looked to have been taken care of.
Now that I did the deed an bought the car I just wanted to see what you guys though I should look for now as a preventative measure if anything?
Also, this thing is a BLAST to drive. Only issue I am having is a slight problem with the F'in ABC system. Will try and get that sorted asap.
The Front Shocks sagging down will be either the Valve Block or the Internal Seals. More likely the Valve Block though since it is a common issue.
Flush the system with fresh fluid and see if it gets better as it removes the dirt. Also go ahead and buy 2 new filters. They made the filters catch smaller particles and if you still have the old style then it wont help.
As far as the mileage is concerned....120k is not much.... i am at 238k and she is still running strong.
Do all the maintenance and she will be fine. I would do ALL fluids right now....Oil and Filter (Correct MANN HU 718/5x...don't buy ANYTHING else)...Change the Supercharger Oil....change the Diff Oil and change and flush the brake system.
Good luck with her
Been looking for quite a long time at buying an E55 or S55 but one happened to fall in my lap a town over for what I felt was a good price. Car has 120K on it (yes I know very high mileage) it is a 2003 and I know the guy before me did not take care of it well in the year he owned it but prior to that all Mercedes dealer maintenance and looked to have been taken care of.
Now that I did the deed an bought the car I just wanted to see what you guys though I should look for now as a preventative measure if anything?
Also, this thing is a BLAST to drive. Only issue I am having is a slight problem with the F'in ABC system. Will try and get that sorted asap.
If the car rises up when gear in D or R, then it is more likely valve block seal issue. Replace whole valve block or replace all o-rings in the valve block.
Sun
The Front Shocks sagging down will be either the Valve Block or the Internal Seals. More likely the Valve Block though since it is a common issue.
Flush the system with fresh fluid and see if it gets better as it removes the dirt. Also go ahead and buy 2 new filters. They made the filters catch smaller particles and if you still have the old style then it wont help.
As far as the mileage is concerned....120k is not much.... i am at 238k and she is still running strong.
Do all the maintenance and she will be fine. I would do ALL fluids right now....Oil and Filter (Correct MANN HU 718/5x...don't buy ANYTHING else)...Change the Supercharger Oil....change the Diff Oil and change and flush the brake system.
Good luck with her

As far as the MANN filter I actually just changed the oil and purchased the Mobil 1 filter which was the most expensive but when I went to put it on it seemed very cheaply made just a paper filter and the one I took off the car seemed to have almost a mesh material on the inner part of the filter vs the all paper mobil 1 filter. Can I just replace the filter from the top without draining the oil or do I have to drain before taking the filter off? I will switch out to the MANN filter if so...
Good luck!
Sun
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This is a straightforward repair. You don't need special tools to remove the front valve block to get it on a bench to get out the valves and replace the O-rings. Just remove the front plastic belly pan and wheel well liner to get access. Then simple open-end wrenches or flare wrenches to unscrew the 4 (or is it 5?) hoses and disconnect the 4 electrical connectors. The block is bolted to a carrier bracket with rubber bushings that help isolate noise. You unbolt from that and disconnect the cannon ball accumulator to get to the block itself. Once on the bench, remove the plastic cover/ retainer clips to get to the valves, which then simply twist and pull out. Good luck finding the best matching Viton O-rings. Very simple with only caution being to keep dirt out of the hose openings.
There's a great YouTube video demonstrating this.
When you are ready to replace just make sure you reattach all hydraulic lines and connectors and accumulator to their rightful places and reinstall. You do not need a special scan tool to run rodeo. Or I should say that I did not. I was careful to not let to much fluid drip out (capped the hoses with rubber glove fingers/elastic while they were disconnected. I simply used the up/down switch 20 or 30 times to bleed out bubbles.
You might as well also plan to do this before a complete ABC filter replacement.
Pentosin CHF-11S is the proper fluid.
This is fresh fluid After I installed a magnet fiter on the return line.
Sun
Last edited by bigmyself; Sep 9, 2017 at 04:37 PM.
Good luck
So as long as the dealer used the right "P/S fluid", you should be ok.
Just buy a 5L jug to have around for top-offs or repairs.
Last edited by DEBENZO; Sep 12, 2017 at 09:56 AM.








