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2003 MB S55 AMG V8KOMPRESSOR
So i purchased the car a little over a year ago and she ran beautiful. One thing i nptoced when i got it was that my back left abc strut would sag over night, so i did the rear valve blocl seals and that fixed that problem. Car hasnt dropped an inch ever since.
My other issue was that my sport button never worked. The red light would turn on but i never felt a difference in drive and it wouldnt show on my cluster "SPORT ACTIVE" like other S55's do.
I put the car on a maxi system computer to do re-calibdate the suspention but it would work. I noticed the car was lowered on links, so i swapped them out for the stock links and decided to lower the car with star. Once i put the stock links on my front right sits lower then my front left, and my back left sits higher then my back right. So shes sitting cockeyed now. When i try to calibrate or do rodeo it tells me system pressure to low. I can get passed the PLUNGER TRAVEL SENSOR. part but then thats it. It tells me SYSTEM PRE CONDITIONS HAVE NOT BEEN MET.
IS MY PUMP BAD? Indy told me i need a new pump but i do not want to replace it if im not sure. And if i do, am i better off with a new rebuilt one or an oem used one?
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED as i need to settle this problem before i go ahead with the rest of my modifications.
'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Originally Posted by SiKE500
2003 MB S55 AMG V8KOMPRESSOR
So i purchased the car a little over a year ago and she ran beautiful. One thing i nptoced when i got it was that my back left abc strut would sag over night, so i did the rear valve blocl seals and that fixed that problem. Car hasnt dropped an inch ever since.
My other issue was that my sport button never worked. The red light would turn on but i never felt a difference in drive and it wouldnt show on my cluster "SPORT ACTIVE" like other S55's do.
I put the car on a maxi system computer to do re-calibdate the suspention but it would work. I noticed the car was lowered on links, so i swapped them out for the stock links and decided to lower the car with star. Once i put the stock links on my front right sits lower then my front left, and my back left sits higher then my back right. So shes sitting cockeyed now. When i try to calibrate or do rodeo it tells me system pressure to low. I can get passed the PLUNGER TRAVEL SENSOR. part but then thats it. It tells me SYSTEM PRE CONDITIONS HAVE NOT BEEN MET.
IS MY PUMP BAD? Indy told me i need a new pump but i do not want to replace it if im not sure. And if i do, am i better off with a new rebuilt one or an oem used one?
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED as i need to settle this problem before i go ahead with the rest of my modifications.
Have you checked the fluid level and changed the filter? First step, IMO, before chucking the pump and rather easy DIY. Indy should have done that before changing your valve block, as it's part of the MB procedure to diagnose the valve block in the first place. If they did, great. If they didn't, start with fluid and filter (and find another Indy). If you in fact need a pump, I can't opine on new vs rebuilt. I'd suspect fluid, filter and ABC module (cockeyed, maybe the one you have is plugged in wrongly or malfunctioning) over a pump. This fluid (like any other) suffers evaporative loss over time, and most people have never checked it, so there's that. Also, if the filter is clogged with debris (or more likely gummed up fluid), it'll act like a clogged heart artery (low pressure).
2003 MB S55 AMG V8KOMPRESSOR
So i purchased the car a little over a year ago and she ran beautiful. One thing i nptoced when i got it was that my back left abc strut would sag over night, so i did the rear valve blocl seals and that fixed that problem. Car hasnt dropped an inch ever since.
My other issue was that my sport button never worked. The red light would turn on but i never felt a difference in drive and it wouldnt show on my cluster "SPORT ACTIVE" like other S55's do.
I put the car on a maxi system computer to do re-calibdate the suspention but it would work. I noticed the car was lowered on links, so i swapped them out for the stock links and decided to lower the car with star. Once i put the stock links on my front right sits lower then my front left, and my back left sits higher then my back right. So shes sitting cockeyed now. When i try to calibrate or do rodeo it tells me system pressure to low. I can get passed the PLUNGER TRAVEL SENSOR. part but then thats it. It tells me SYSTEM PRE CONDITIONS HAVE NOT BEEN MET.
IS MY PUMP BAD? Indy told me i need a new pump but i do not want to replace it if im not sure. And if i do, am i better off with a new rebuilt one or an oem used one?
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED as i need to settle this problem before i go ahead with the rest of my modifications.
How does it go through calibration of plunger travel sensors if the pump is bad? Or were these separate events. Calibration of travel sensors makes all four struts raise all the way up. if they do that then you don't need a pump.
Have you checked the fluid level and changed the filter? First step, IMO, before chucking the pump and rather easy DIY. Indy should have done that before changing your valve block, as it's part of the MB procedure to diagnose the valve block in the first place. If they did, great. If they didn't, start with fluid and filter (and find another Indy). If you in fact need a pump, I can't opine on new vs rebuilt. I'd suspect fluid, filter and ABC module (cockeyed, maybe the one you have is plugged in wrongly or malfunctioning) over a pump. This fluid (like any other) suffers evaporative loss over time, and most people have never checked it, so there's that. Also, if the filter is clogged with debris (or more likely gummed up fluid), it'll act like a clogged heart artery (low pressure).
GL
maw
i already replaced my filter, and flushed out all my abc fluid. I did the valveblock seals myself when i got the car. I only brought it to the indy just to see why i can get passed the plunger calibration. And they tell me its my pump not poo ushing enuff psi. Pushes enuff to keep the car up and driving fine but cant calibrate.
i already replaced my filter, and flushed out all my abc fluid. I did the valveblock seals myself when i got the car. I only brought it to the indy just to see why i can get passed the plunger calibration. And they tell me its my pump not poo ushing enuff psi. Pushes enuff to keep the car up and driving fine but cant calibrate.
Are you saying you CAN or CAN NOT get past the plunger calibration?
Are you saying you CAN or CAN NOT get past the plunger calibration?
I CAN get passed it. It will let me do the plunger calibration, then when i goes to level calibration it says pre conditions have not been met and gives me a low pressure code.
I CAN get passed it. It will let me do the plunger calibration, then when i goes to level calibration it says pre conditions have not been met and gives me a low pressure code.
So then you shouldn't need a pump if it is able to raise the car all the way. If in the case your pump is weak after periods of high demand you can run plunger calibration then immediately go in actual values and see if pressure is too low.
I know you can enter rodeo and other actuations with zero pump pressure but I can't say for certain you can get into level calibration. Go through your actual values and check to see what doesn't look right. You should have pressure, you should have a voltage supply reading, check all the sensors and make sure nothing looks out of place.
I recently had a car that after actuating both rear struts to the maximum height causing demand on pump the pressure dropped from 190bar down to 110bar by the time I got to the front struts. From there nothing could be actuated due to the lack of sufficient pressure, monitoring pressure while the car idled then showed pressure slowly dropping down all the way to 25bar over the course of about 3 minutes.
But if you still have pressure after plunger calibration you need to look at other preconditions that may have affect on the procedure
So then you shouldn't need a pump if it is able to raise the car all the way. If in the case your pump is weak after periods of high demand you can run plunger calibration then immediately go in actual values and see if pressure is too low.
I know you can enter rodeo and other actuations with zero pump pressure but I can't say for certain you can get into level calibration. Go through your actual values and check to see what doesn't look right. You should have pressure, you should have a voltage supply reading, check all the sensors and make sure nothing looks out of place.
I recently had a car that after actuating both rear struts to the maximum height causing demand on pump the pressure dropped from 190bar down to 110bar by the time I got to the front struts. From there nothing could be actuated due to the lack of sufficient pressure, monitoring pressure while the car idled then showed pressure slowly dropping down all the way to 25bar over the course of about 3 minutes.
But if you still have pressure after plunger calibration you need to look at other preconditions that may have affect on the procedure
Thank you for the info. Im going to look deeper into it this coming week when i get some time and ill let you guys know again exactly whats happening. I dont think i need a pump either but and indy told me so and its driving me crazy the way my car sits and how crapy my suspention feels. Ill see what bar my pump stays at and come back with my readings in a few days.
Just read this post... I’m new to the S55, just picked up an 03 with 145k and runs great! Only issue is it spontaneously drops on the rear left corner while driving or sitting still. My wife calls it possessed lol. What’s my next step? Or is this a dealership item?
Are you saying you CAN or CAN NOT get past the plunger calibration?
So, i recently messed again with my s55 and my abc issue. Had a friend come with his staar computer and we did some work with it. We managed to get rid of the abc error messages and had no faults. But for some reason my suspention still sits retarted. And as im driving once in a while my front right strut feels like it drops down and then comes back up. The car never drops on any corner no mater how long it sits, Running or off. But for some reason it drops on the front right while driving then comes back up. We did rodeo, it completed the whole process. My bar started at around 190 and fluctuated between 130-190 and sometimes went down to 80-90 bar but would come up right away. Any info would help me alot.
Just read this post... I’m new to the S55, just picked up an 03 with 145k and runs great! Only issue is it spontaneously drops on the rear left corner while driving or sitting still. My wife calls it possessed lol. What’s my next step? Or is this a dealership item?
Originally Posted by SiKE500
So, i recently messed again with my s55 and my abc issue. Had a friend come with his staar computer and we did some work with it. We managed to get rid of the abc error messages and had no faults. But for some reason my suspention still sits retarted. And as im driving once in a while my front right strut feels like it drops down and then comes back up. The car never drops on any corner no mater how long it sits, Running or off. But for some reason it drops on the front right while driving then comes back up. We did rodeo, it completed the whole process. My bar started at around 190 and fluctuated between 130-190 and sometimes went down to 80-90 bar but would come up right away. Any info would help me alot.
If it drops sitting still with the car off then most likely valve block issue.
So, i recently messed again with my s55 and my abc issue. Had a friend come with his staar computer and we did some work with it. We managed to get rid of the abc error messages and had no faults. But for some reason my suspention still sits retarted. And as im driving once in a while my front right strut feels like it drops down and then comes back up. The car never drops on any corner no mater how long it sits, Running or off. But for some reason it drops on the front right while driving then comes back up. We did rodeo, it completed the whole process. My bar started at around 190 and fluctuated between 130-190 and sometimes went down to 80-90 bar but would come up right away. Any info would help me alot.
There is a bulletin concerning body acceleration sensors causing random movements that has been posted in other threads. It includes a part number to check on yours.
My '03 S55 sagged in the rear when I got it, but both wheels. Replaced both main accumulators and no more sag. Next step is flush and a valve rebuild, as the system still doesn't work. Sets height at engine start and locks the struts. The height button on the dash does nothing, but when you start the car (after it's been sitting a while) it will take the position that was last set.
The fluid that came out when I relieved pressure for the acculumulator change was BLACK, so that's why I'm thinking valve body rebuild. Easy enough DIY job, but the fluid flush has to happen first, and I'm leaning towards just going with conventional struts, as the top bushings on both front struts are... decayed, to put it mildly, and that requires a strut replacement. I don't have access to a STAR system, and I HATE paying money to shops!
It's obvious that my ABC was not well maintained, at least by the last owner. (That would be the moron that put wider-than-stock 20-inch wheels on it with tires too narrow, so the tires don't fit in the fender wells, and on cornering it actually puts the sidewall on the pavement. Idiot...)
Last edited by wfooshee; Mar 26, 2019 at 10:32 AM.
My '03 S55 sagged in the rear when I got it, but both wheels. Replaced both main accumulators and no more sag. Next step is flush and a valve rebuild, as the system still doesn't work. Sets height at engine start and locks the struts. The height button on the dash does nothing, but when you start the car (after it's been sitting a while) it will take the position that was last set.
The fluid that came out when I relieved pressure for the acculumulator change was BLACK, so that's why I'm thinking valve body rebuild. Easy enough DIY job, but the fluid flush has to happen first, and I'm leaning towards just going with conventional struts, as the top bushings on both front struts are... decayed, to put it mildly, and that requires a strut replacement. I don't have access to a STAR system, and I HATE paying money to shops!
It's obvious that my ABC was not well maintained, at least by the last owner. (That would be the moron that put wider-than-stock 20-inch wheels on it with tires too narrow, so the tires don't fit in the fender welss, and on cornering it actually puts the sidewall on the pavement. Idiot...)
I would keep the system personally. Arnott struts aren't too bad, you could pay for a proper flush. I think between a coil over kit, control arms, sway bars, new pump and all the labor involved you'd likely pay much more than repairing the system.
Arnott says they only have rear struts for the VIN range my car falls in... 340xxx, although on EPC the front struts are the same part number for my car and the higher VINs for US ABC cars. Can they be convinced???
Still, the Strutmasters kit, for all four corners and the module to shut off the ABC error lights, is less than a pair of remanufactured ABC struts. Since my repair process is "fix this part and find out what's next," the process is open-ended, and could end up costing more than I paid for the car; definitely not worth it.
Last edited by wfooshee; Mar 26, 2019 at 10:38 AM.
No, it does not drop or sag when car is off no matter how long the car sits. I replaced the rear valve block seals a few months ago cuz rear left kept sagging overnight, but front never gave me any problems. So today i decided to drop my rear links to get the car tonsit a little lower since my back right kept staying high. Car dropped nice, no abc lights. But when driving, i keep hearing a clunking noise in my rear as if theres something empty in my strut. My abc fluid is fine and was flushed when valveblocks seals were done and rodeo was performed the other day to air it out. Also, after i lowered the rear a little, the car was a little bouncy in back, and after a while of driving it again threw the white abc visit workshop message and threw the rear up high again. Then afyer a few seconds of standing still and moving the car again, it lowered it back to where i set it earlier in the day. Cars driving me crazy. I scanned the codes and it came up with these:
PLEASE, ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. i love the abc and jist want it to be fixed right. So i can have this beauty sit right and drive normal.
[QUOTE=knowbenz;7714150]If it drops sitting still with the car off then most likely valve block issue.[/
[QUOTE=SiKE500;7718055]No, it does not drop or sag when car is off no matter how long the car sits. I replaced the rear valve block seals a few months ago cuz rear left kept sagging overnight, but front never gave me any problems. So today i decided to drop my rear links to get the car tonsit a little lower since my back right kept staying high. Car dropped nice, no abc lights. But when driving, i keep hearing a clunking noise in my rear as if theres something empty in my strut. My abc fluid is fine and was flushed when valveblocks seals were done and rodeo was performed the other day to air it out. Also, after i lowered the rear a little, the car was a little bouncy in back, and after a while of driving it again threw the white abc visit workshop message and threw the rear up high again. Then afyer a few seconds of standing still and moving the car again, it lowered it back to where i set it earlier in the day. Cars driving me crazy. I scanned the codes and it came up with these:
PLEASE, ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. i love the abc and jist want it to be fixed right. So i can have this beauty sit right and drive normal.
Originally Posted by knowbenz
If it drops sitting still with the car off then most likely valve block issue.[/
Is that control module from a different car? Ive had that top code when installing say a cl600 module into a cl500. The level sensor codes you could have one shorting out in a certain position and temporarily shutting them all down, there have been a lot of posts on this. If you clear the fault codes are you still left with the top one and a white light?
I ordered one up for my S-65.... Inspected before installation... WTH! The quick disconnect fitting was full of steel *****... Each .5mm. Hmmmm..... Ordered up another... Same issue! So she still gets wet at the L/F corner between oil changes.
OP the ABC system is worth the effort. Don't hack the car by giving it coil overs.
Originally Posted by knowbenz
I would keep the system personally. Arnott struts aren't too bad, you could pay for a proper flush. I think between a coil over kit, control arms, sway bars, new pump and all the labor involved you'd likely pay much more than repairing the system.
Ok, so i walked out to the car this morning. Rear sitting just were i set it to. No sagg no nothing. I stRt it, and my white abc light was gone, last night it wad and gave me the codes i showed you. I put thr scanner and codes were still there, i cleared everything, and none came back. Car was bouncy and wouldnt hold position, rears kept rubbing since i have cls55 concVe rims in the rear and they are a little wide. So i put the scNner again and it gave me system pressure to low. Can this all be from a weak pump. The fact that i cannot calibrate it. Or do my load adjustment, and the car rising and lowering as i drive or come to sudden stops. Can all this be from bad pump? I do not want to change it for no reason thats why im hesitant to do so far. During rodeo as i said before, bar was between 130 -190. But for a second or so would drop to 80-90.
[QUOTE=knowbenz;7718059]
Originally Posted by SiKE500
No, it does not drop or sag when car is off no matter how long the car sits. I replaced the rear valve block seals a few months ago cuz rear left kept sagging overnight, but front never gave me any problems. So today i decided to drop my rear links to get the car tonsit a little lower since my back right kept staying high. Car dropped nice, no abc lights. But when driving, i keep hearing a clunking noise in my rear as if theres something empty in my strut. My abc fluid is fine and was flushed when valveblocks seals were done and rodeo was performed the other day to air it out. Also, after i lowered the rear a little, the car was a little bouncy in back, and after a while of driving it again threw the white abc visit workshop message and threw the rear up high again. Then afyer a few seconds of standing still and moving the car again, it lowered it back to where i set it earlier in the day. Cars driving me crazy. I scanned the codes and it came up with these:
PLEASE, ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. i love the abc and jist want it to be fixed right. So i can have this beauty sit right and drive normal.
Is that control module from a different car? Ive had that top code when installing say a cl600 module into a cl500. The level sensor codes you could have one shorting out in a certain position and temporarily shutting them all down, there have been a lot of posts on this. If you clear the fault codes are you still left with the top one and a white light?
Have you replaced the accumulators? A weak accumulator, low on nitrogen pressure will weaken the overall system. While running, the pressure for second-to-second operation of the system comes from the accumulators, and the pump just keeps them topped off. If you have weak accumulators you're never going to get it working right.
As for testing accumulators, there really isn't a test. If it's completely trashed, like a torn diaphragm, it's be obvious, but the ones that came off my car had no difference in appearance, or anything I could do with them by hand, to the new ones, but the car stopped sagging.
The accumulators are pressurized to about 1500 psi, and will run at about 3000 once pumped up. Even if it was trashed to a tenth of its pressure, you're still not going to manually move the diaphragm with 150 psi behind it...
Replacing them was the first thing I did in my search for solutions, but I don't have a laptop and the STAR system...
Hi, noninhave not replaced my accumulators yet. I was thinking of replacing the one by the front passenger side by rack and pinion, whitch as ive read up is the one that causes the droning or humming noise. Mine hums a little, bothinf crazy. I have though replaced the line that goes to the accumulator located in the rearnof my car, by the spare tire well. That line blew a months back while drivingm you think that bad accumulator could have blown my line and or causing that clunkin noise when susoentions is bouncing. I think i will those 2 accumulators this week to be sure.
Originally Posted by wfooshee
Have you replaced the accumulators? A weak accumulator, low on nitrogen pressure will weaken the overall system. While running, the pressure for second-to-second operation of the system comes from the accumulators, and the pump just keeps them topped off. If you have weak accumulators you're never going to get it working right.
As for testing accumulators, there really isn't a test. If it's completely trashed, like a torn diaphragm, it's be obvious, but the ones that came off my car had no difference in appearance, or anything I could do with them by hand, to the new ones, but the car stopped sagging.
The accumulators are pressurized to about 1500 psi, and will run at about 3000 once pumped up. Even if it was trashed to a tenth of its pressure, you're still not going to manually move the diaphragm with 150 psi behind it...
Replacing them was the first thing I did in my search for solutions, but I don't have a laptop and the STAR system...
Blown line is a classic indication of a bad accumulator. The accumulator not only maintains the pressure needed to extend the struts, but more importantly, it receives the fluid being released from the struts when the struts are allowed to compress. That release appears as a pressure pulse in the main line. If the accumulator is bad, and already bottomed out, that pressure pulse has nowhere to go, and will pop a line.
The accumulator you're talking about absorbs pulses from the pump, and is not large enough to actually supply or receive pressure from the main lines in the system.
The accumulators should probably be the first thing replaced when starting on a flaky ABC system, especially when you see occasional pressure drops like you have. The pump can eventually bring the pressure back up, but can't maintain pressure during high demand. That's what the "nitrogen bombs" are for.
So if I may highjack this thread a moment.... if the car settles over night on just one corner then the MOST likely issue is the valve block... yes? I have already done the front block with excellent results. I'm avoiding changing the rear struts. Also on the rebuild kits is it important to replace the springs on the solenoids too or just O rings? I have ordered two kits. One had the springs one just o rings.
Someone mentioned beware Arnott replacements and I have to agree. They sent me two reman struts for the front and both have ancient urethane bushings. Total bummer. They still thump some in the front.
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