2006 S55 AMG Transmission Flush
#26
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'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Uh oh... probably the dampers as we’ve indicated. Don’t let the dealer make a science project out of it. A line would be easy to spot. Sometimes the shocks leak, but that’s rare and easy to spot.
Yes this is is a .6 transmission. If you have the VMI from you’re dealer, the engine and transmission numbers are noted there. Have at it on that work. I think I’ve sent you a link to what you need.
If it was my car I would just tell them to do the ABC service and the dampers and not “check” for a leak. That’s a couple hundred that can be applied to real work. New fluid, filter and dampers are NEVER a bad thing here. They’re like brakes — even if you don’t absolutely need new ones, new ones are new and changing them early is much better than changing them late.
maw
Yes this is is a .6 transmission. If you have the VMI from you’re dealer, the engine and transmission numbers are noted there. Have at it on that work. I think I’ve sent you a link to what you need.
If it was my car I would just tell them to do the ABC service and the dampers and not “check” for a leak. That’s a couple hundred that can be applied to real work. New fluid, filter and dampers are NEVER a bad thing here. They’re like brakes — even if you don’t absolutely need new ones, new ones are new and changing them early is much better than changing them late.
maw
#27
Senior Member
Jdfreak
Yes, your Indy can check the accumulators. The procedure for checking them is the same as for REPLACING them. That is, jack up car move plastic splash panels out of way, unscrew accumulator from bracket and disconnect pressure line. Check accumulator*, if it’s OK then screw accumulator back on, start engine to check for leaks, top off fluid and button up.
*as mentioned in prior post, check the accumulator by trying to press on the plastic membrane through the opening. Use a dowel or back of a pen so you don’t puncture it. When they are new, the membrane is pressed hard up against the opening by the N pressure. Like a pressure balloon inside a cannon ball.
My opinion: If you can afford new accumulators at approx $150 each, might as well put new ones on, since your Indy has already spent your money on labor getting them off. Preventative maintenance. Peace of mind, eliminate possible causes of ABC problems. It’s like replacing traditional shock absorbers or hood struts that eventually fail. How old are the ones that came with the car?
*as mentioned in prior post, check the accumulator by trying to press on the plastic membrane through the opening. Use a dowel or back of a pen so you don’t puncture it. When they are new, the membrane is pressed hard up against the opening by the N pressure. Like a pressure balloon inside a cannon ball.
My opinion: If you can afford new accumulators at approx $150 each, might as well put new ones on, since your Indy has already spent your money on labor getting them off. Preventative maintenance. Peace of mind, eliminate possible causes of ABC problems. It’s like replacing traditional shock absorbers or hood struts that eventually fail. How old are the ones that came with the car?
#29
Senior Member
Check out some tube videos
One of the best how-to DIY guys is Kent Bergsma of Mercedessource. I’ve learned a lot from his tutorials. I should probably buy something off him some day as a thanks for the knowledge.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I subscribe to him as well. Wish I knew a guy like that locally. Your right, I should buy his video series.
#31
Senior Member
I didn’t need rodeo
I’ve changed ABC accumulators, removed/cleaned/replaced valve bodies at front and rear and never had to use rodeo mode. I just used the dashboard up/down button 20 or 30 times to cycle the fluid. Your mileage may vary.
So, you COULD just replace the accumulators yourself if you like doing the work and you learn about hydraulics and pressures before trying it. Turn off the car. Jack the car up and let both front or both rear wheels, or all 4 wheels hang down to remove most of the pressure in the system. Do at your own risk. Very high pressures are dangerous, so don’t take my word for it. A little fluid leaks out.
There are bleed valves at high spots in the ABC lines in each wheel well to get air bubbles out of the system near the shocks. Kind of hard to describe how to bleed them but basically with the car on jack stands or a lift, when a wheel is hanging down you can crack open the bleed valve while slowly lifting the tire with a pump jack to compress the shock so some fluid comes out with any bubbles. Usually pretty dirty fluid that is stuck far out on each branch. It never makes it back to the reservoir to get filtered.
Caution, you don’t want to raise the wheel too high as to knock the car off the jack stands onto your skull. Quickly snug up the bleed nipple before letting the tire back down. You can only do one at a time. The system has to be closed up when you do this. Ie, after you have reattached all the parts and you don’t have any leaks.
Rodeo looks cool. Wish I had the software to run it.
So, you COULD just replace the accumulators yourself if you like doing the work and you learn about hydraulics and pressures before trying it. Turn off the car. Jack the car up and let both front or both rear wheels, or all 4 wheels hang down to remove most of the pressure in the system. Do at your own risk. Very high pressures are dangerous, so don’t take my word for it. A little fluid leaks out.
There are bleed valves at high spots in the ABC lines in each wheel well to get air bubbles out of the system near the shocks. Kind of hard to describe how to bleed them but basically with the car on jack stands or a lift, when a wheel is hanging down you can crack open the bleed valve while slowly lifting the tire with a pump jack to compress the shock so some fluid comes out with any bubbles. Usually pretty dirty fluid that is stuck far out on each branch. It never makes it back to the reservoir to get filtered.
Caution, you don’t want to raise the wheel too high as to knock the car off the jack stands onto your skull. Quickly snug up the bleed nipple before letting the tire back down. You can only do one at a time. The system has to be closed up when you do this. Ie, after you have reattached all the parts and you don’t have any leaks.
Rodeo looks cool. Wish I had the software to run it.
#33
Senior Member
I used to know how u feel.
I payed $114k for mine in 2003.
I trembled while changing the oil the first time.
Now I think of it as a $5k used Ford that will cost me $4.5k to drive into the dealer’s fixit bay for ABC service.
I trembled while changing the oil the first time.
Now I think of it as a $5k used Ford that will cost me $4.5k to drive into the dealer’s fixit bay for ABC service.
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update
Well, the dealer I bought the car from has replaced the valve cover gaskets. They admitted they must have damaged one putting them on right before I bought it. They also offered to replace the front struts because both were leaking. That’s what had lowered the Pentosin level enough to make the steering wander and the ABC message. They think that what they originally thought was the valve cover leaking was actually the struts. I’m actually picking it up tomorrow and then going right to the Indy to get the abc flush.
#37
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'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Well, the dealer I bought the car from has replaced the valve cover gaskets. They admitted they must have damaged one putting them on right before I bought it. They also offered to replace the front struts because both were leaking. That’s what had lowered the Pentosin level enough to make the steering wander and the ABC message. They think that what they originally thought was the valve cover leaking was actually the struts. I’m actually picking it up tomorrow and then going right to the Indy to get the abc flush.
new ABC fluid anyway; and (2) may mean your dampers are fine. Did you get the VMI to confirm prior work, or is this dealer not a MB Store? If it's an MB Store, don't forget the VMI before you throw more money at it.
Unfortunately if no prior work was done, I'm left to conclude that failed dampers and coagulated fluid blew the struts, in which case you need everything and be glad you don't need lines too, and/or a pump. I'm just hoping your VMI shows some of this work was done. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why people give up on these cars. You must maintain the ABC system, the whole system, as a system, because problems will cascade.
maw
Last edited by maw1124; 02-25-2020 at 09:57 PM.
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Warranty work
well wait a minute... when you say "offered" to replace the struts, is that warranty work? If so (or even if retail), that may (1) include some
new ABC fluid anyway; and (2) may mean your dampers are fine. Did you get the VMI to confirm prior work, or is this dealer not a MB Store? If it's an MB Store, don't forget the VMI before you throw more money at it.
Unfortunately if no prior work was done, I'm left to conclude that failed dampers and coagulated fluid blew the struts, in which case you need everything and be glad you don't need lines too, and/or a pump. I'm just hoping your VMI shows some of this work was done. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why people give up on these cars. You must maintain the ABC system, the whole system, as a system, because problems will cascade.
maw
new ABC fluid anyway; and (2) may mean your dampers are fine. Did you get the VMI to confirm prior work, or is this dealer not a MB Store? If it's an MB Store, don't forget the VMI before you throw more money at it.
Unfortunately if no prior work was done, I'm left to conclude that failed dampers and coagulated fluid blew the struts, in which case you need everything and be glad you don't need lines too, and/or a pump. I'm just hoping your VMI shows some of this work was done. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why people give up on these cars. You must maintain the ABC system, the whole system, as a system, because problems will cascade.
maw
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maw1124 (02-26-2020)
#40
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'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
A strut "leaking a little bit" is "blown" in my language. But I hear you. Are they replacing with OEM or Arnott? No offense to Arnott (great company and product), but you want OEM.
maw
maw
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#42
Junior Member
Thread Starter
What do you mean by everything.
well wait a minute... when you say "offered" to replace the struts, is that warranty work? If so (or even if retail), that may (1) include some
new ABC fluid anyway; and (2) may mean your dampers are fine. Did you get the VMI to confirm prior work, or is this dealer not a MB Store? If it's an MB Store, don't forget the VMI before you throw more money at it.
Unfortunately if no prior work was done, I'm left to conclude that failed dampers and coagulated fluid blew the struts, in which case you need everything and be glad you don't need lines too, and/or a pump. I'm just hoping your VMI shows some of this work was done. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why people give up on these cars. You must maintain the ABC system, the whole system, as a system, because problems will cascade.
maw
new ABC fluid anyway; and (2) may mean your dampers are fine. Did you get the VMI to confirm prior work, or is this dealer not a MB Store? If it's an MB Store, don't forget the VMI before you throw more money at it.
Unfortunately if no prior work was done, I'm left to conclude that failed dampers and coagulated fluid blew the struts, in which case you need everything and be glad you don't need lines too, and/or a pump. I'm just hoping your VMI shows some of this work was done. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why people give up on these cars. You must maintain the ABC system, the whole system, as a system, because problems will cascade.
maw
#43
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'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Yes I have the part numbers. No comment on DIY.
See here...https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-s...c-toasted.html
Especially posts 24 and 31. Download and keep as many attachments / links as you can.
Cheers,
maw
See here...https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-s...c-toasted.html
Especially posts 24 and 31. Download and keep as many attachments / links as you can.
Cheers,
maw
Last edited by maw1124; 02-27-2020 at 05:12 PM.
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K2 cfd (03-07-2020)
#44
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update
The dealership finally found the engine oil leak, it was the dipstick tube o ring. Had the ABC flushed. I replaced the transmission mount and she’s a whole new car.
#45
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Don’t let em sit.
My S55 AMG has had 8K miles put on It in 10 years. The more I drive it the smoother the ride, the better it shifts and drives. I think this thing just wants to be driven so please don’t let em sit. They need to be driven to stay healthy.
#46
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maw
#47
Junior Member
Thread Starter
S Class happiness
Not really. The 560 SEC, sure. These? Nah, they just need new fluid and plugs. But to be sure, both cars are what Sonderklasse is about. You got the car, flushed fluids, wiped the transmission programming and started driving it. That's it, and it's not a long list. So now she's yours. Enjoy! Year after year after year. Now you know why you see 30year old SClasses rolling around like it's still the 80s.
maw
maw
#50
Junior Member
Pulsation Dampers are no problem to change.
Also check post #19 in the thread maw quoted for diagrams and part numbers.
I got my parts through fcpeuro and the pentosin, I replace my ABC filter and one liter of fluid each time I change the oil. And fcpeuro has a lifetime warranty on everything including fluid! Good luck with the S55, I absolutely love the suspension but it has to be taken care of.
Also check post #19 in the thread maw quoted for diagrams and part numbers.
I got my parts through fcpeuro and the pentosin, I replace my ABC filter and one liter of fluid each time I change the oil. And fcpeuro has a lifetime warranty on everything including fluid! Good luck with the S55, I absolutely love the suspension but it has to be taken care of.