I got a quote from a reputable Indy for $545 to service the transmission. Is this a good price? I’m a diy mechanic, can I do it myself?

 

Is that still the 5 speed 722.6 trans in year 2006?

If you still have access to the trans fill dipstick tube (which became hidden after 2004? By the rear passenger side of the engine,), then you can do it yourself. Its no more difficult than on a Chevy or Ford.

You should buy the dipstick and a replacement trans fill tube cap with the little red locking tab. When you pull off the old one, it can damage the Oring seal inside the cap.

And the filter and couple gallons of Fuchs Titan ATF 4134, if you have the 722.6 trans.

 

That seems a bit high to me. You're talking 8 liters of fluid (maybe $20 each) a kit (under $50) and an hour. Are they replacing the trans plug as well, along with the electrical plate?

I don't know how they get to $550, when the parts are less than $250.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B..._Transmission/

maw

 

The quote does say trans plug replacement.

 

That's also quick and easy with a cheap part, as you can see. So they're getting closer, because you must be paying 2 hours of labor. Look, they're not raping you but they're not doing you any huge favors either. But if you like them and they're convenient to you, then you have your Indy to take care of the car. Have them write you a quote for ABC Service including all dampers and we can compare notes. I just did all mine last year.

Cheers,

maw

 

Quote for abc service is $498.

 

That’s not including dampers apparently. Still a bit high, but OK. There’s about an extra $100 in each quote by my math, depending upon how many quarts of fluid they’re using. Close enough if you like them. Nit picking isn’t the best way to win friends and influence people. I’d see if they’d do both for a grand out the door. With 62k on it I wouldn’t worry about dampers just yet but I also wouldn’t be surprised if you end up doing them soon on a 15 year old car.

maw

 

If I rushed the trans job (no beers) I could probably do it in under 2 hours without a 2-Post shop lift (hand pumping hydraulic jacks and using jack stands and on my back). So at $120ish per hour for the dealership, meh.... OK.

RE the ABC Service: the accumulators cost around $150 each x 3 if you include the return damper on the front right. So the quote probably does not include those. Definitely doesn’t include opening up and cleaning the valve blocks at front and rear (albeit not a necessary task if there are no sagging issues.). Search RockAuto or pelican or the other aforementioned online place to see the parts pricing.

So, I think the dealer is only quoting you the time it takes (1 hour!) to pump 12 quarts of Pentosin CHF-11S green hydraulic fluid through the ABC system while running rodeo mode, and filter change. It seems high. But I agree it is good peace of mind to do this service and change of fluid and filter is necessary.

I love to make jobs last longer than they should but a dealer tech should be faster every day. These prices would still drive me to DIY and keep the savings in my pocket.

 

So, I’m 3 days away from the scheduled abc flush. It was -11 yesterday and when I got in the car after letting it warm up I have the abc drive carefully alarm! I’m freaking out! I’ve had the car for 2 weeks. Should I take this up with the dealer? No sagging and no soft bucking bronco, the ride was actually stiff.

 

Fluid is probably low, and since it expands and contracts like everything else in extreme temps... there you go. I’m sure there’s a YouTube video on how to fill it. Notice that the indicator has two levels, for engine on and engine off. I check mine with the engine off and cold. You’ll need to know this and keep Pentosin around the house anyway because almost no one gets the levels 100% correct and you’ll top it off every couple years.

PSA — a stiff ride almost always means you need new dampers. This is an S Class. But the first step to deciding upon that is to get new fluid and filter + the fluid level correct. If there’s insufficient fluid in the system the dampers will not be pressurized enough to dampen road shock. Make sense?

Same for the transmission. The first step to diagnosing anything is to get fresh fluid in at the correct level. That’s why you’re doing those two things first before you start thinking about DIY projects. And doing those will in my experience save you from DIY projects.

GL. I have a good ABC writeup around here that I’ll dig out.

maw

 

I did go and pick up some Pentosin last night. It’s hard to tell the fluid level. When taking the dipstick out it’s a jerking motion. I’ll add some tonight and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the advice.

 

I'm pretty sure that's why I do mine with the engine off, cold, after it sits over night. But I'm no DIYer. Be careful removing the dipstick because they are known to break off into the reservoir. YRMV, GL. You seem to be on the right track. Enjoy the car. They're nowhere near as troublesome as the DIY internet has made them out to be, and by now most issues and the fixes are known. Most problems are from lack of maintenance and people skimping on services. This is the highest signal to noise Board I know of for these cars, which is why I've been here so long and try to give back.

Cheers,

maw

 

Thanks. A lot of the information on other boards about these 15 year old super cars is false and I swear meant to make you have a heart attack.

 

Ok, I had to put the entire 1.06qt of Pentosin in to get it full. No more abc alarm.

 

Yeah... that’s also probably why it was hard to tell the level — there was none in the reservoir. The new should help refresh the old over weekend driving until you can get all that old stuff out. GL. What’s the level now, cold with engine off? In those temps, you should see if it sags overnight. If not, be happy.

maw

 

I started it up and let it run for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a half hour and still says full. I did have to put the last of the 1.06 qt in after filling, then starting it up.

 

Im betting it’s been low even before I bought it.

 

It didn’t sag at all even when sitting out in -14 degree weather. I measured the wheel openings.

 

Of course it was low when you bought it, as is the transmission fluid I suspect. Just be glad it’s not sagging.

Note that as you drive the car (as opposed to just starting the car), fluid will fill up the rest of the system (struts and dampers) as the car rolls, leans, turns and goes over bumps, so that when it’s off the next time it’ll *likely* read lower than it does now (unless your driving the car filled up the components with what was in the reservoir when you bought it.)

Without knowing the history of the car it’s not knowable. These comments are to get you to understand how the system interacts with the fluid. You’ve done enough for now. Get a proper service and take it from there.

GL and welcome to the board. It'll also be interesting what you think of the power steering if you get the car out on clear roads.

maw

 

Jdfreak2012: We suggested above how the accumulators should be changed out as part of ABC service if you don’t know the car’s history. They are shock absorbers for the hydraulic system.

When you mention “low fluid” and “stiff ride”, I suspect you have one popped accumulator.

These cannon-ball shaped pressure vessels are normally filled with nitrogen (N) sealed behind a thick plastic membrane. You can actually see the membrane on a good one out of the box, and poke it through the hole of the pipe fitting with the non-pointy end of a pen, and it will be hard to push in. A bad popped one will be filled with fluid and/or you will be able to poke the pen all the way in to the bottom with very little effort.

When the ABC pump is on, normally the pressurized ABC fluid in the line partially fills the accumulators, until the compressed N matches the normal system pressure. There will still be a good amount of gas volume behind the membranes on smooth road. If you hit a speed bump too fast, the high increase in line fluid pressure compresses the N some more, and more fluid to rushes into the accumulators to absorb the shock. After the speed bump, the N pushes against the membrane to push the fluid back out into the line to normal pressure again.

Here comes the fun part: When the membrane in one of these accumulators fails, the N is able to rush OUT of the accumulator into the ABC line. (bubbles sometimes cause the ABC fluid to spew out at the reservoir, or escape from the over pressure relief valve in front of the driver’s side wheel liner.) Pressurized ABC fluid in the line will continue to rush into the accumulator past the broken membrane to fill the void left by the disappeared N gas. The fact that fluid has now permanently filled the entire accumulator will make it SEEM like you are a 1/2 to 1 full pint LOW, when you measure the ABC fluid at the reservoir.

And, now that there is no more gas pressure in the accumulator(s) to absorb temporary bumps, the ride will start to feel very stiff. The pump is prone to damage from extra pressure shocks hammering directly on its outlet from the undampened line pressures.

So, yes fill the fluid to prevent the pump from running dry until you get to the service place. But drive slowly and get the accumulators replaced. Don’t get complacent that it seems there are no leaks and assume everything is fine. Don’t just pat yourself on the back and say, “Oh, I was just low on fluid. I should be fine now that I know how to buy Pentosin CHF-11S and pour it in the hole.” Otherwise you will have to replace the pump.

I think Corteco is still one of the OEM supplier brands for the accumulators. $150ish? Each.

I think Lucas makes the pumps. $2500-ish?

Dealers love replacing the pumps.

Pardon the pomposity. Just saying it that way to make the point really obvious.

 

Much better explanation...

maw

 

I will get the accumulators changed during abc flush, thanks.

 

Is this the 722.6 transmission? 2006 S55 AMG. I want to do the tranny flush and filter myself and need to get the dipstick, replacement dipstick cap, filter, oil and gasket.

 

Can the Indy check the accumulators to see if any are popped?

 

The car has a leak in the abc system. The dealer is looking at it now. I believe that is why the fluid was low. Still, I will get the accumulators changed.