Has anyone else been very disappointed in the oven harmon kardon system in these cars? I recently purchased an 08 65 and the system is terrible. I'm looking to rip the entire thing out and replace with something at least decent. My 97 Lexus and my 04 bmw both have better sound systems than this car. I can't believe a car that was 197k brand new came with this crap. If anyone else has done an overhaul on this system, please share what products you used.

I agree. H/K is a disappointment. My old E55 had Bose system in it and it sounded way better. I installed a complete Focal system in my ML63 and only left H/K for rear fill.
Take a look here in the w221 forums:
https://mbworld.org/forums/mbworld.o...d.php?t=540324

Thanks. I read the entire thread. That's a lot of good info. Now I just have to buy the components and install. I'm going to do it myself to save a little cash.

Well good luck ! Keep this thread updated with pics

Cheers

What source for your music are you using? I have found many people that are leaving things on the table when it comes to this sound system,
What do you find interior about it? Are you using high quality material and sources?

It doesn't matter which source I play from, it all sounds like crap. The speakers are very raspy due to the paper cones they're built with. I can't turn the bass above 0 or the front speakers begin to pop and crackle.

You have blown speakers or a bad amplifier.

I doubt it's the amp and the speakers sound fine unless I turn them loud. I've had aftermarket sound systems in all of my cars accept my old Lexus SC400. It's not that the speakers are blown, they just can't handle the bass I want.

OP my 2008 S-65 has the same system and it bumps when asked. Set your system for the 'Logic Surround' or whatever it is. Crackling in your front speakers is a clear indication of a dead amp.

Maybe it's just me. I'm a bit of an audiophile. The system delivers, just not to my expectations. I've heard the B&O system in the facelifted w221 and the harman kardon doesn't hold a candle to it. I'm already in the process of replacing components. I may be adding an aftermarket amp also. I'd like to run a deeper woofer in the rear deck.

Burmeister sound in 222 S-Class cars is far and away the best I have encountered in a car. Yes; our 221 cars ICE is as an 8 track player compared with it.

I would start with one of the DSP amps (Audison, Alpine, JBL, etc), and build from there. All of my experience with these things tells me the DSP/amp solves 60% of the deficiencies, add on amps and speakers (mainly sub) cures the rest, even for the most discerning audiophiles... that’s why the aftermarket folks are pushing so hard in that space, along with slimfit subs. So I’d start with the DSP, slim fit sub and amp... if that doesn’t move you down the road, you’re looking at a science project (e.g., competition sound from an SClass). IIRC, Rainbow has a DSP that accepts a MOST input, and JLAudio makes the best slim fit subs... but check up on all that. And depending upon where you are, good luck getting anyone to install them who knows what they’re doing.

Please let us know how you make out.

Cheers,

maw

Using a high-quality source medium (DVD-A @ 192k) will make the system sound like it was designed. Although DVD-A is not many new releases are available on DVD-A - you can find them on eBay. I would recommend locating one of your favorite albums on DVD-A and play it in your vehicle. I think you will be very impressed!

In the last few months I’ve been moving my car down this road and have a pretty good handle on what’s out there.

Audison and Helix appear to be leaders, with JLAudio not far behind. All make 9 and 10 channel DSP amps that will take an optical input from these systems ($1200-$1900), but need an additional component to properly extract the signal. Audison and Helix both make units that will plug into the MOST loop and extract an optical output (~$500) which you can then feed into the DSP amp. All of this is designed to bypass the factory amp but leave the rest of the optical loop in tact. Finally, Mobridge is developing (or is selling, not clear) a DSP amp that combines these 2 separate steps (optical signal extraction + DSP amplification) into one single amp that performs both functions. So for $2k-$2500 depending upon how many channels of DSP and watts of power you want, you can transform these systems on a plug and play basis (more or less).

I’m still figuring out which path I want to take, but I thought I’d share for those interested. I’ve since installed a Mobridge M2 Pro to add Bluetooth and iPod control to the car (‘06 S55 Bose Audio), so I have more digital music sources without changing the head unit. The next step is DSP amplification and maybe speakers (as needed, but they are PnP in my car).

The folks at diymobileaudio.com follow this very closely and have been helpful in bringing me up the learning curve. @Renntech6509 DM me for more info.

Cheers,

maw

My understanding is that if you use one of those units (Audison, Helix, Zen etc.) to integrate the MOST signal to the DSP disconnected from the AGW, that will cause the following:
A: Cut out the use of the CD Player
B: Render the Steering Wheel Controls useless
C: Remove any ability to control Fade from the HU (Front - vs - Rear Amplification)
D: Cut Out the Center Channel unless one channel is devoted to the Center Speaker from the DSP.
E. Cut out use of the Satellite Surround Speakers in the back deck, however weak as they are!

However, if you tie into the wires feeding out from the AGW and connect them to the corresponding inputs of your DSP, you have use of all the above and choice of whatever Amplifacation you choose, albeit with a signal that has been processed more than if it was direct from the MOST signal.

I’m getting ready to install an Audison bit Nove, with a 4 Channel (4 x 110W) and 5 Channel (4x90W + 1x350w into 4ohms or 500 into 2 ohms) by tying directly into the AGW wires! Also installing Stereo IntegrityTM 6.5” MkwIII and their M3 Carbon’s in pods as well as either some Focal Tweeters or add a Center channel, also will add Focal 6.5” full range for the rears and connect the OEM Subwoofer to the Amp as well!

^^^ Thanks for this. I stopped with the Mobridge after I found out how Bose amplified these speakers (2 ohm drivers with 4 ohm tweeters, etc.). I decided it's fine unless and until it stops working, at which point I'll re-evaluate moving to 4 ohm everything, which is essentially what's being discussed here. I may upgrade the 2 ohm drivers in the doors and perhaps the 4 ohm tweeters, but even that's looking like a science project right now. We shall see. Thanks for your input though.

And I agree, taking the signal out of the AGW and moving it to the speakers on a channel by channel basis "could" be a better route (I previously considered that) although the impedance matching removes this from the realm of consideration for me -- it's over my head and more than I have time to decipher. I suppose I could find a 2 ohm amp for the drivers and a 4 ohm amp for the tweeters, but that's a bit much.

Cheers,

maw

PS. The Mobridge let’s you select your input level, which goes a long way in getting acceptable listening volume out of the stock system (coupled with Bass, Trenle, iPod preset EQs, etc). If you’re not looking for competition sound, I’ve found it to be a simple, elegant solution actually, as opposed to e.g. MP3 DVDs in the dash (which I ran for years).

I'm in a similar boat - wanting some modern conveniences along with a really nice sound. This link referenced above has some really good info along with a couple other threads by the same author - https://mbworld.org/forums/mbworld.o...d.php?t=540324

In one of his posts he references some really cheap 4 ohm speakers for the doors that really make a difference, along with dynamat applied to the inner door pans. He also references a Audison 12-channel DSP amp that was run between the AGW and the speakers along with a dedicated sub amp. The key with the Audison DSP amp is that it removed any signal processing coming from the stock AGW and then applied its own equalization that you program after installation. By going this route, as mentioned above, you retain all the OEM functionality.

As for modern conveniences, I was looking at one of the Android units to replace the dash display. Basically, it uses the AUX port on the OEM system to extend funtionality, including Bluetooth streaming, Apple Carplay and Android Auto. It is not quite plug and play depending on whether your car already has an AUX port installed or not.

None of this is cheap (duh, AMG) - $1k for the amp, $500 - $800 for the Android unit, and who knows how much for the installation. The only really cheap parts are the speakers @ $25 each.