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This is the 3rd brake pad change, per carfax in 25k miles. The last owner said he never heard squealing noise. Might be pads got changed, no lube, no good quality to prepare the car for sale, who fkin knows. The car has 3.5 years of warranty, factory + CPO left. However no wear n tear coverage.
as much disdain as I have for the dealer, the techs are good, I doubt anybody is doin that move for $250/hr on an S63
I mean what are the odds of a stick caliper on both wheels? Taking to dealer this week
Definitely low, but the brakes should be quiet when not applied. Different car, not the best picture, and the S63 is admittedly much heavier, but FWIW, these are the rear rotors of my C63S coupe at about ~31k miles after two sets of pads. They had a visible lip even in this picture, and the car was driven hard. Lots of high speed braking on the German Autobahn during my 2 months European Delivery trip and many hard canyon runs. No scorching or dark somewhat burned looking discoloration and there were no wear marks at the holes. I live in NorCal, so very little rain as well and the car is garaged. I dry the brakes with a quick highway stint and some good braking after washing the car before parking it in the garage, so the rotors aren't wet. Have you ever had an issue with the pads seized to the rear rotors after the car sat for a while and you had to break them free first?
Definitely low, but the brakes should be quiet when not applied. Different car, not the best picture, and the S63 is admittedly much heavier, but FWIW, these are the rear rotors of my C63S coupe at about ~31k miles after two sets of pads. They had a visible lip even in this picture, and the car was driven hard. Lots of high speed braking on the German Autobahn during my 2 months European Delivery trip and many hard canyon runs. No scorching or dark somewhat burned looking discoloration and there were no wear marks at the holes. I live in NorCal, so very little rain as well and the car is garaged. I dry the brakes with a quick highway stint and some good braking after washing the car before parking it in the garage, so the rotors aren't wet. Have you ever had an issue with the pads seized to the rear rotors after the car sat for a while and you had to break them free first?
no seize. Car was somewhat babied, no autobahn lol. Can you show me exactly where the warped lip would be or what I would specifically look for?
I see it! So it protrudes perpendicular. Can u so a closer shot?
Yes, it is, It's basically the original thickness of the rotor there, because the pads don't go all the way out to the edge of the rotor. So you can feel this lip with your finger and if you move your fingernail over it, it'll get caught. Unfortunately, I don't have a closer shot. Considering that total rotor wear for the rear is only 1 mm, that means you can have 0.5 mm wear on either side of the rotor. That's not a lot. Even a minor lip means the rotor surface has reached its minimum thickness.
Yes, it is, It's basically the original thickness of the rotor there, because the pads don't go all the way out to the edge of the rotor. So you can feel this lip with your finger and if you move your fingernail over it, it'll get caught. Unfortunately, I don't have a closer shot. Considering that total rotor wear for the rear is only 1 mm, that means you can have 0.5 mm wear on either side of the rotor. That's not a lot. Even a minor lip means the rotor surface has reached its minimum thickness.
Thank you for thr information, much appreciated, 🙏.
Sorry for the late reply, I heard your clip just now and I agree with others that is not exactly normal but glad to hear others offered advice that helped you out, good idea on posting that clip. Sorry for the late reply,
Sorry for the late reply, I heard your clip just now and I agree with others that is not exactly normal but glad to hear others offered advice that helped you out, good idea on posting that clip. Sorry for the late reply,
Cars at stealership, 4 days and still need an update
That is why I turn on valet protect in the MB Connect+ app. It notifies me anytime my car is started and GPS tracks where the car is physically at. I watch it like a hawk when it is at the dealership.
Stealership says they can't duplicate, I'm saying I won't take the car back till they fix it
Not sure where you're located - and I know paying $$$ out of pocket isn't where you want to be - but I'd find a high end auto shop, and have them throw it up on a lift to inspect. Something seems to be making contact somewhere.
Not sure where you're located - and I know paying $$$ out of pocket isn't where you want to be - but I'd find a high end auto shop, and have them throw it up on a lift to inspect. Something seems to be making contact somewhere.
If the issue is breaks and rotors, it's a lot. Frankly pissing me off tell me that noise is normal. It's not fkin normal and they need to address it. Car was bought a week ago, has full factory warranty. I'm in Los Angeles, please recommend if you know anyone.
If the issue is breaks and rotors, it's a lot. Frankly pissing me off tell me that noise is normal. It's not fkin normal and they need to address it. Car was bought a week ago, has full factory warranty. I'm in Los Angeles, please recommend if you know anyone.
So the way to get things properly diagnosed is to request to go out for a drive with the shop foreman and replicate the issue in front of them, and then have them confirm that they can hear it. Don't trust that they hear the same thing as you do by just stating it to the service advisor. That's ultimately how I got hard to diagnose issues resolved. Them hearing and experiencing the issue is half the solution. I just saw you responded on another thread to me and I clarified the issue I was having. As I said in my response, the noise turned out to be my rear shocks and not the brakes. Your noise is quite different, though. Yours sounds like metallic scraping. Mine was a high pitch squealing noise that turned out to be an electronic noise from the damper modules audible at low speeds.
So the way to get things properly diagnosed is to request to go out for a drive with the shop foreman and replicate the issue in front of them, and then have them confirm that they can hear it. Don't trust that they hear the same thing as you do by just stating it to the service advisor. That's ultimately how I got hard to diagnose issues resolved. Them hearing and experiencing the issue is half the solution. I just saw you responded on another thread to me and I clarified the issue I was having. As I said in my response, the noise turned out to be my rear shocks and not the brakes. Your noise is quite different, though. Yours sounds like metallic scraping. Mine was a high pitch squealing noise that turned out to be an electronic noise from the damper modules audible at low speeds.
Definately similar to a squealing, will def request foremen to sit besides me and diagnose. What did they tell you initially that this noise was "normal"?
Definately similar to a squealing, will def request foremen to sit besides me and diagnose. What did they tell you initially that this noise was "normal"?
No, the foreman heard it and confirmed it, but they basically came back with sorry we don't have a solution for it. They inspected everything and said nothing was obviously worn or damaged. I then made another service appointment a couple of months later and requested the issue to be escalated to AMG and that I wanted to talk to the service manager. In my case I actually had a video recording from another member on here who had exactly the same noise, but in his case it was coming from the front. He tracked it down to the damper module using a microphone and then confirmed that it was the damper module by disconnecting it. I showed this to the service manager and then they finally followed the same diagnostic procedure. They disconnected both rear dampers and found that the noise stopped. Then reconnected them and the noise was back. So that was enough to get the warranty claim approved to replace the dampers.
If you haven't already spoken with the service manager at the dealership, that should be your next step. Keep it professional and lay out the case. First have the foreman confirm the noise, so they can confirm it to the service manager. Having said that, though, the brakes are only warrantied for about 10k miles, because they are wear items. So with your car being at 25k miles if it turns out that it is actually the brakes, it's gonna be out of your pocket. I know you said the pads were changed 1000 miles ago according to Carfax, so you could go to the shop that replaced them and see if they stand behind their work and warranty it.
What you also might wanna do is take it to a reputable independent shop and have them measure the rotor runout. If the wheels were not properly torqued last time, then the rotors could be bent. If it's not a 100% clear that the noise is actually coming from the brakes, then you might request them to put on chassis ears and locate the exact source of the noise. If you are not familiar with what chassis ears are, they are several microphones that are placed in the vicinity of where the noise is heard, near items that could be the source of the noise. Then on a test drive the tech listens in to the different channels and compares the noise to determine where it's coming from.
Last edited by superswiss; 07-13-2023 at 02:52 AM.
No, the foreman heard it and confirmed it, but they basically came back with sorry we don't have a solution for it. They inspected everything and said nothing was obviously worn or damaged. I then made another service appointment a couple of months later and requested the issue to be escalated to AMG and that I wanted to talk to the service manager. In my case I actually had a video recording from another member on here who had exactly the same noise, but in his case it was coming from the front. He tracked it down to the damper module using a microphone and then confirmed that it was the damper module by disconnecting it. I showed this to the service manager and then they finally followed the same diagnostic procedure. They disconnected both rear dampers and found that the noise stopped. Then reconnected them and the noise was back. So that was enough to get the warranty claim approved to replace the dampers.
If you haven't already spoken with the service manager at the dealership, that should be your next step. Keep it professional and lay out the case. First have the foreman confirm the noise, so they can confirm it to the service manager. Having said that, though, the brakes are only warrantied for about 10k miles, because they are wear items. So with your car being at 25k miles if it turns out that it is actually the brakes, it's gonna be out of your pocket. I know you said the pads were changed 1000 miles ago according to Carfax, so you could go to the shop that replaced them and see if they stand behind their work and warranty it.
What you also might wanna do is take it to a reputable independent shop and have them measure the rotor runout. If the wheels were not properly torqued last time, then the rotors could be bent. If it's not a 100% clear that the noise is actually coming from the brakes, then you might request them to put on chassis ears and located the exact source of the noise. If you are not familiar with what chassis ears are, they are several microphones that are placed in the vicinity of where the noise is heard, near items that could be the source of the noise. Then on a test drive the tech listens in to the different channels and compares the noise to determine where it's coming from.
- brake Pads were replaced at this dealership.
- foreman said can't duplicate noise, I even sent them the recording.
- ty for the chassis noise.
- brake Pads were replaced at this dealership.
- foreman said can't duplicate noise, I even sent them the recording..
Yeah, so have the foreman tell you that to your face after you go on a test drive together. This is not unusual if the noise is faint on the inside of the car, which with all the noise insulation in the S Class that's unfortunately an issue. So windows down I guess and hope the foreman still has good hearing. If the noise is obvious they should hear it. I mean my high pitch noise was quite faint, but radio and ac off and me driving at the speeds where it's audible, made it hard to miss for them. The problem is often that they might drive at a different speed and can't hear it. You know exactly what to listen for and how to reproduce it, so help them help you.
Last edited by superswiss; 07-13-2023 at 03:00 AM.
Yeah, so have the foreman tell you that to your face after you go on a test drive together. This is not unusual if the noise is faint on the inside of the car, which with all the noise insulation in the S Class that's unfortunately an issue. So windows down I guess and hope the foreman still has good hearing. If the noise is obvious they should hear it. I mean my high pitch noise was quite faint, but radio and ac off and me driving at the speeds where it's audible, made it hard to miss for them. The problem is often that they might drive at a different speed and can't hear it. You know exactly what to listen for and how to reproduce it, so help them help you.
Pisses me off tho, i feel like they half *** it and tell you its "normal" in hopes you go away. If they wont fix, ill go to dealership and testride with foreman. If they say can't fix, what do I do, escalate? To where?
Pisses me off tho, i feel like they half *** it and tell you its "normal" in hopes you go away. If they wont fix, ill go to dealership and testride with foreman. If they say can't fix, what do I do, escalate? To where?
Noises are often very hard to track down, but even if they hear it, they work within a framework that's given to them by the manufacturer. Once they confirm the noise, they will scour their database for a know solution. If they come up empty handed, then they might be at a loss. That's essentially what happened in my case. Apparently nothing came up in the system for the symptoms I reported. It's actually not easy for them to get warranty claims approved. They have to follow specific protocols to prove to MB/AMG that there is an issue. If AMG says there is no issue, then they can't do much. You may not realize, but they are often as frustrated as the customers are and are at the mercy of the manufacturer. I had several conversations with my SA about this. It gets easier if you have a relationship with the SA and they know you are not full of it. Unfortunately, they get a lot of entitled airheads demanding all kinds of things. It takes some legwork on your part unfortunately. A used car is also tougher, because you don't even know the true history of the car. In my case it was a lot easier, because I bought the car new from the same dealership, and I had established a relationship with my service advisor and the service manager knew me as well from an earlier issue.
As for escalating it. If they come back with no solution, then you have to request to get AMG involved. They have internal processes to raise an issue directly with AMG. Basically, they open a support ticket with AMG and request help from an engineer. It can go as far as AMG Germany actually flying out an engineer to diagnose the issue. I've gone through that with other manufacturers, specifically Audi. In that case I had help, because the son of the regional director worked at that particular Audi dealership and they were one of the top dealerships in the country, so they had quite some pull with the mothership. I had a leaking transmission that was discovered during the first service and the first attempt to fix it didn't take, so I brought the car back, and two days later an engineer from Germany was looking at my car and together they resolved the issue. I know MB/AMG suspended the traveling engineers during the pandemic and I don't know if the resumed it. What I heard was they were doing video conferencing now in lieu of the engineer physically flying out. But again, a lot of it also comes down to the history you have with the dealership.
07-03-2023, 07:18 PM
