When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks. I will work on gaining access to the 12v port in the ash tray.
I went out to install the Z23/Z26 pads this morning and ran into a snag. For a guy who has way more tools than any one person should own, I do not have the correct wheel nut socket. Doh!!!!! I had to order one from Amazon which will be here tomorrow.
Instead, I took the car out for a drive and then used my Autel MS919 to rerun the wet clutch adaptation. After it ran for 2-3 minutes, I took the car for a drive, and it does seem to have helped reduce the slip off the line. I will need to put some more miles on the car to be sure, but it most certainly felt smoother off idle.
Got the Uniden hardwire kit installed using the ash tray 12v outlet. All told it wasn't overly difficult to do. You just need to remove three torx screws from the passenger side under-dash cover, a 10mm nut behind the AIR BAG cover on the A-pillar cover, pull back the body door seal, and remove the two torx scews holding the ash tray in. I'd say the hardest part was getting the ash tray plug disconnected/reconnected and reinstalling the torx screws for the under-dash cover. Fishing the wires was easy. I just used a piece of aluminum filler rod for TIG welding that I bent to pull the wires through. I used a couple of wire taps (I know, I know) on the ash tray side since it was a bit easier to access the harness there. Black is positive, and brown is ground if I remember right. I bundled the extra wire under the dash and zip tied it, and mounted the Uniden controller on the under-dash cover. I never intend to use the mute button on the hardwire kit, but I needed to put it somewhere. Works great now and no more dangling wire.
Got the Uniden hardwire kit installed using the ash tray 12v outlet. All told it wasn't overly difficult to do. You just need to remove three torx screws from the passenger side under-dash cover, a 10mm nut behind the AIR BAG cover on the A-pillar cover, pull back the body door seal, and remove the two torx scews holding the ash tray in. I'd say the hardest part was getting the ash tray plug disconnected/reconnected and reinstalling the torx screws for the under-dash cover. Fishing the wires was easy. I just used a piece of aluminum filler rod for TIG welding that I bent to pull the wires through. I used a couple of wire taps (I know, I know) on the ash tray side since it was a bit easier to access the harness there. Black is positive, and brown is ground if I remember right. I bundled the extra wire under the dash and zip tied it, and mounted the Uniden controller on the under-dash cover. I never intend to use the mute button on the hardwire kit, but I needed to put it somewhere. Works great now and no more dangling wire.
Doing some organizing in my garage on my 48th birthday and it was the first time the old muscle car and the new one were side by side outside. lol The S is just a bit more comfortable to drive!
Doing some organizing in my garage on my 48th birthday and it was the first time the old muscle car and the new one were side by side outside. lol The S is just a bit more comfortable to drive!
Thank you. It's an original 70 SuperSport 454 LS5 car. Built in Kansas City and sold in Southern California where it spent its whole life. It's no longer a numbers matching car and has a GM crate 454 HO engine. The prior owners (two brothers) did a lot of work to the car, such as rear Wilwood disc brakes, Global West rear suspension, replaced the factory AC system with a Vintage aire system, and a few other odds and ends. I took it a step further by installing an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 SFI fuel injection system with computer controlled timing, Dakota Digital gauges, 3-point belts, updated charging system, UMI front suspension, VIking coil overs, UMI sway bars and chassis braces, Lee power steering 12:1 blueprinted steering box, Wilwood front brakes, and a few other things. However, I take pride in doing clean work, not drilling holes in the car, and not having it era correct. When I installed the EFI, I took care to keep it super clean and even the Cowl Induction still operates. It has headers from the prior owner and a new Magnaflow exhaust system. It's a driver quality car and has never been fully restored, so a bit of an updated survivor.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
