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Engine won't turn over
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
Engine won't turn over
This problem has just started several days ago. Turn the key and everything comes on but the starter doesn't turn. Then after a while of trying, it works. Here's what I've done:
Took out the OVR and cleaned the fuse and pin connectors.
Jacked it up and tapped the starter while the wife turns the key.
Charged the battery up, my battery is fine, 13+ volts.
Checked all the fuses...3-4 times.
Checked the wires going to the starter..OK.
Wiggled the shift level and climbed under and checked the neutral switch, will not start in neutral or park.
Sprayed the ignition switch with CRC.
If I push it out of the way so that the wife can get her Cadillac out, it may or may not start right up. It's doing it more often now.
I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch, but usually when that's the problem, you can giggle the switch and get it to go...but not in this case.
Fuel pump is running.
This sounds like the problem triggerman had recently, but I wonder if he moved the shift lever while trying to crank it? I move mine but it doesn't crank. I may by-pass the neutral safety switch if I get no other suggestions.
Shadowgriffen, OVR? Probably not this time, but what?
Thanks everyone, Perri
Took out the OVR and cleaned the fuse and pin connectors.
Jacked it up and tapped the starter while the wife turns the key.
Charged the battery up, my battery is fine, 13+ volts.
Checked all the fuses...3-4 times.
Checked the wires going to the starter..OK.
Wiggled the shift level and climbed under and checked the neutral switch, will not start in neutral or park.
Sprayed the ignition switch with CRC.
If I push it out of the way so that the wife can get her Cadillac out, it may or may not start right up. It's doing it more often now.
I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch, but usually when that's the problem, you can giggle the switch and get it to go...but not in this case.
Fuel pump is running.
This sounds like the problem triggerman had recently, but I wonder if he moved the shift lever while trying to crank it? I move mine but it doesn't crank. I may by-pass the neutral safety switch if I get no other suggestions.
Shadowgriffen, OVR? Probably not this time, but what?
Thanks everyone, Perri
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,094
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From: Boston
is a German Tank
This problem has just started several days ago. Turn the key and everything comes on but the starter doesn't turn. Then after a while of trying, it works. Here's what I've done:
Took out the OVR and cleaned the fuse and pin connectors.
Jacked it up and tapped the starter while the wife turns the key.
Charged the battery up, my battery is fine, 13+ volts.
Checked all the fuses...3-4 times.
Checked the wires going to the starter..OK.
Wiggled the shift level and climbed under and checked the neutral switch, will not start in neutral or park.
Sprayed the ignition switch with CRC.
If I push it out of the way so that the wife can get her Cadillac out, it may or may not start right up. It's doing it more often now.
I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch, but usually when that's the problem, you can giggle the switch and get it to go...but not in this case.
Fuel pump is running.
This sounds like the problem triggerman had recently, but I wonder if he moved the shift lever while trying to crank it? I move mine but it doesn't crank. I may by-pass the neutral safety switch if I get no other suggestions.
Shadowgriffen, OVR? Probably not this time, but what?
Thanks everyone, Perri
Took out the OVR and cleaned the fuse and pin connectors.
Jacked it up and tapped the starter while the wife turns the key.
Charged the battery up, my battery is fine, 13+ volts.
Checked all the fuses...3-4 times.
Checked the wires going to the starter..OK.
Wiggled the shift level and climbed under and checked the neutral switch, will not start in neutral or park.
Sprayed the ignition switch with CRC.
If I push it out of the way so that the wife can get her Cadillac out, it may or may not start right up. It's doing it more often now.
I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch, but usually when that's the problem, you can giggle the switch and get it to go...but not in this case.
Fuel pump is running.
This sounds like the problem triggerman had recently, but I wonder if he moved the shift lever while trying to crank it? I move mine but it doesn't crank. I may by-pass the neutral safety switch if I get no other suggestions.
Shadowgriffen, OVR? Probably not this time, but what?
Thanks everyone, Perri
I did the same thing, tried hitting it with a screwdriver and all! It started here and there, luckily it left me stranded at home, not on the road!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
I suspect the ignition switch, however you can usually giggle and/or play around with a bad switch and get contact....not my case.
If it is the starter, I would tend to believe it is the starter solenoid. I tapped the starter with a hammer while the wife turned the key with no luck.
**One has to be careful not to hit the starter too hard or damage to the magnets will occur**
Wait a few minutes, get in and it starts right up.
I'm stumped!
If it is the starter, I would tend to believe it is the starter solenoid. I tapped the starter with a hammer while the wife turned the key with no luck.
**One has to be careful not to hit the starter too hard or damage to the magnets will occur**
Wait a few minutes, get in and it starts right up.
I'm stumped!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
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From: marlboro, nj
Mercedes benz 1991 300ce(RIP), now an 89 300ce
happened to me one day, i was at the beach 30 miles away and when i came back to my car it wouldnt start. ended up getting my entire ignition system replaced.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,494
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Starting circuit is very basic.
Components include ignition switch, reversing/neutral switch and starter motor.
First make sure that the ground lead to the starter motor is intact and the connection is clean.
Also clean up the ground connections in the area of the battery
Poor grounds tend to give erratic operation and the W124 is known for ground problems on higher mileage vehicles.
Should be a small wire going to the starter from the reversing/neutral switch (violet color?) along with a heavier black wire direct from the battery.
Jumper these two wires together and the starter should spin providing you have a good ground connection.
This will prove out the starter.
When the ignition is turned to start you should have at least 12+ volts to ground on this wire.
If you don't have voltage then work your way back to see if you have voltage at the reversing/neutral switch, then back to the ignition switch( violet/white wire?).
If you have power and ground to the starter, then it could be that you need to replace the starter.
Components include ignition switch, reversing/neutral switch and starter motor.
First make sure that the ground lead to the starter motor is intact and the connection is clean.
Also clean up the ground connections in the area of the battery
Poor grounds tend to give erratic operation and the W124 is known for ground problems on higher mileage vehicles.
Should be a small wire going to the starter from the reversing/neutral switch (violet color?) along with a heavier black wire direct from the battery.
Jumper these two wires together and the starter should spin providing you have a good ground connection.
This will prove out the starter.
When the ignition is turned to start you should have at least 12+ volts to ground on this wire.
If you don't have voltage then work your way back to see if you have voltage at the reversing/neutral switch, then back to the ignition switch( violet/white wire?).
If you have power and ground to the starter, then it could be that you need to replace the starter.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
Zedstyle, the problem is intermittent. It does seem to start better once the car has been started for the first time of the day. I leave it running if I'm running errands.
Rbycc, I'll double check all the grounds around the battery, jump the neutral switch, and check voltage at the starter.
Thanks, Perri
Rbycc, I'll double check all the grounds around the battery, jump the neutral switch, and check voltage at the starter.
Thanks, Perri
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
Yea, I guess I'd better share my findings. I didn't post it immediately to demonstrate the importance of coming back and letting others know the fix.
The problem is the NEAUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. Weird thing though, I could move the shift lever while trying to start it, without success. I suppose if the NSS is out of adjustment, neutral isn't really neutral...park isn't park. Sometimes it would start in park, sometimes not. The lever can't go far enough forward in "park" to activate the switch. In neutral, the lever can be moved slightly toward reverse.....and there it will start. I'll adjust it this weekend. What's involved with that?
Anyways, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, and let's keep sharing what we find.
Perri
The problem is the NEAUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. Weird thing though, I could move the shift lever while trying to start it, without success. I suppose if the NSS is out of adjustment, neutral isn't really neutral...park isn't park. Sometimes it would start in park, sometimes not. The lever can't go far enough forward in "park" to activate the switch. In neutral, the lever can be moved slightly toward reverse.....and there it will start. I'll adjust it this weekend. What's involved with that?
Anyways, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, and let's keep sharing what we find.
Perri
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,494
Likes: 17
From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Yea, I guess I'd better share my findings. I didn't post it immediately to demonstrate the importance of coming back and letting others know the fix.
The problem is the NEAUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. Weird thing though, I could move the shift lever while trying to start it, without success. I suppose if the NSS is out of adjustment, neutral isn't really neutral...park isn't park. Sometimes it would start in park, sometimes not. The lever can't go far enough forward in "park" to activate the switch. In neutral, the lever can be moved slightly toward reverse.....and there it will start. I'll adjust it this weekend. What's involved with that?
Anyways, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, and let's keep sharing what we find.
Perri
The problem is the NEAUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. Weird thing though, I could move the shift lever while trying to start it, without success. I suppose if the NSS is out of adjustment, neutral isn't really neutral...park isn't park. Sometimes it would start in park, sometimes not. The lever can't go far enough forward in "park" to activate the switch. In neutral, the lever can be moved slightly toward reverse.....and there it will start. I'll adjust it this weekend. What's involved with that?
Anyways, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, and let's keep sharing what we find.
Perri
Great that you saved some money...
Troubleshooting electrical is basic logic, isolate until you find the fault !!!
Don't forget to clean up all your grounds as they are usually the source of "gremlins" in a W124 !
For the neutral/reverse safety switch check that your shifter linkage bushings are intact as this can cause the problem you are having.
Adjustment can be made in the shifter linkage in relation to the switch.
You should have a peg on the switch that corresponds with a hole in the selector lever/linkage. Make sure you're in neutral.
Remove the selector lever. Loosen the switch and use about a 5/32 drill bit to align the selector lever and switch peg with the locating hole in the switch casing. Tighten the switch and reinstall the lever/linkage.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
Thanks RBYCC, that's fantastic! I was a little concerned that this forum was not very active. And while sometimes a reply comes slow, I believe this forum is picking up some speed.
I belong to several forums, and there are forums for just about every vehicle or product out there.
The Cobra forum I belong to is so active, replies are nearly instant, and you can spend all day reading new ones. Over here one has to be patient.
Sure, there are lurkers in all forums, who only wish to obtain info pertinent to them. But if they would only share and participate, this forum too would build a large data reference and speed-up tremendously.
I belong to several forums, and there are forums for just about every vehicle or product out there.
The Cobra forum I belong to is so active, replies are nearly instant, and you can spend all day reading new ones. Over here one has to be patient.
Sure, there are lurkers in all forums, who only wish to obtain info pertinent to them. But if they would only share and participate, this forum too would build a large data reference and speed-up tremendously.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,494
Likes: 17
From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Thanks RBYCC, that's fantastic! I was a little concerned that this forum was not very active. And while sometimes a reply comes slow, I believe this forum is picking up some speed.
I belong to several forums, and there are forums for just about every vehicle or product out there.
The Cobra forum I belong to is so active, replies are nearly instant, and you can spend all day reading new ones. Over here one has to be patient.
Sure, there are lurkers in all forums, who only wish to obtain info pertinent to them. But if they would only share and participate, this forum too would build a large data reference and speed-up tremendously.
I belong to several forums, and there are forums for just about every vehicle or product out there.
The Cobra forum I belong to is so active, replies are nearly instant, and you can spend all day reading new ones. Over here one has to be patient.
Sure, there are lurkers in all forums, who only wish to obtain info pertinent to them. But if they would only share and participate, this forum too would build a large data reference and speed-up tremendously.
Couldn't agree more....I'm on the Corvette Forum and post a lot of DIY's for the C6.
Talk about active, you get a response before you post
To me a forum should be more then "social" but give a venue to question and identify problems that someone has previously taken the time to research and resolve !!!
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,094
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From: Boston
is a German Tank
I wanted to mention the NSS, but I felt since you had already checked it, it would have been pointless to reiterate.
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, GA
1987 300D Turbo, 2007 ML63 AMG
Engine won’t turn over…
Just had the same problem with my 1987 300D Turbo. Checked the fuse box and tightened what looked like a fuseable link (glow plugs?) and then the engine started again.
It worked normally for a few days and then quit again while away from home. My friend ran a direct connection from the battery to the starter solenoid and the engine cranked and started normally. When I got home and tried to start the engine again, no dice.
The problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Tried to start in neutral, did not work either. Tried to move the shift lever in the neutral position while trying to crank, made no difference either.
This should leave the the ignition switch. Jiggling it while trying to crank, still nothing. Must be the ignition switch. Any thoughts?
It worked normally for a few days and then quit again while away from home. My friend ran a direct connection from the battery to the starter solenoid and the engine cranked and started normally. When I got home and tried to start the engine again, no dice.
The problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Tried to start in neutral, did not work either. Tried to move the shift lever in the neutral position while trying to crank, made no difference either.
This should leave the the ignition switch. Jiggling it while trying to crank, still nothing. Must be the ignition switch. Any thoughts?
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, NE
1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
Just had the same problem with my 1987 300D Turbo. Checked the fuse box and tightened what looked like a fuseable link (glow plugs?) and then the engine started again.
It worked normally for a few days and then quit again while away from home. My friend ran a direct connection from the battery to the starter solenoid and the engine cranked and started normally. When I got home and tried to start the engine again, no dice.
The problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Tried to start in neutral, did not work either. Tried to move the shift lever in the neutral position while trying to crank, made no difference either.
This should leave the the ignition switch. Jiggling it while trying to crank, still nothing. Must be the ignition switch. Any thoughts?
It worked normally for a few days and then quit again while away from home. My friend ran a direct connection from the battery to the starter solenoid and the engine cranked and started normally. When I got home and tried to start the engine again, no dice.
The problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Tried to start in neutral, did not work either. Tried to move the shift lever in the neutral position while trying to crank, made no difference either.
This should leave the the ignition switch. Jiggling it while trying to crank, still nothing. Must be the ignition switch. Any thoughts?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
This thread is actually old. I changed the neutral safety switch and it works great now. Back-up lights working now too. If your back-up lights aren't working, and it won't start in park and it will start in nuetral, or if you have to wiggle the shift lever to get it to start, you probably need to change the NSS.
It was fairly easy to change.
It was fairly easy to change.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: South River NC
Also, I did jump the NSS to get it to start. I recall 4 pin receptacles on the connector plug going to the NSS. I jumped the 2 closest to the rear of the vehicle and it started when the key is turned.
****It'll start in any gear if you do this though****
****It'll start in any gear if you do this though****
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 103
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From: Fayetteville, GA
1987 300D Turbo, 2007 ML63 AMG
Engine won't turn over
Mystery solved!
Nothing was worn out or broken. The car is in very good shape with only 162,000 miles. After 21 years , however, electric connections are corroding. In this case, there was next to the main fuse box an electrical connector (I think it's the one between the ignition key and the NSS switch, a flat cannon plug) I pulled the connector out of the socket and pushed it in again. This reconnected every thing and the car is cranking again normally. :-)
Nothing was worn out or broken. The car is in very good shape with only 162,000 miles. After 21 years , however, electric connections are corroding. In this case, there was next to the main fuse box an electrical connector (I think it's the one between the ignition key and the NSS switch, a flat cannon plug) I pulled the connector out of the socket and pushed it in again. This reconnected every thing and the car is cranking again normally. :-)
Last edited by fritza2tt; Mar 19, 2014 at 08:51 PM. Reason: 100,000 miles later still works prfectly. Friedolin
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, GA
1987 300D Turbo, 2007 ML63 AMG
100,000 miles later, car still ran perfectly until this week when it would not start. The engine cranked effortlessly but showed no glow plug light on the dash. Checked the glow plug controller and the fuse was cracked. Easy enough to fix and repair.
