Ok Here we go:

First off I have had a lot of help from members on this board so I figure it's my turn to do some typing and maybe my post can help others. This is the start to my 2007 S550 AMG package facelift to 2010-2014 S63 AMG (note very important not to put an S63 logo on the back just because it looks like one) I know there is a bunch of posts on here with people doing it but I'm doing it with mostly OEM parts except for the exhaust and front grille. However I have searched a lot of the boards and never got all the information in one spot. So I'm gonna make this detailed so someone can just come here for all the information. Important note, I have the AMG package installed on my S. If you don't have the AMG package it is more detailed than my post. From my little bit of research you would have to change out at least fender liners and some more parts. Ok here is the parts I bought with part #'s and prices so you can figure out how much this is gonna cost you. The bumpers I was smart and got good deals on eBay but the other parts your not gonna find on eBay cheaper than parts.com. Everything but the bumpers, grille, and exhaust tips came from parts.com

Front Bumper $500 A 221 885 30 25
Rear Bumper $250 A 221 885 18 25

The front bumper needs 3 impact absorbers
A 221 885 8337 $116 Middle one
A 221 885 6137 $60 Left side
A 221 885 6237 $60 Right Side

Bottom of the bumper has whats called a "Stay" keeps it in place on bottom.
A 221 885 0136 $40

A 221 885 2053 $50 Fog light plastic grille Right side
A 221 885 1953 $50 Fog light plastic grille Left side
A 221 885 0953 $88 Front Mesh plastic on bottom of bumper

A 221 820 1356 $258 fog light left
A 221 820 1456 $200 fog light right

A 221 885 2325 $185 rear bumper diffuser
A 221 885 32259999 $101 rear insert that goes into the diffuser

Exhaust tips (eBay) $300
55 tech front grile (eBay) $250

The fog lights in the picture were the wrong ones so I gotta ship them back and return them for the part number listed above.

Going to take the bumpers to the body shop and have them painted. I got everything figured out except the issue with the fog lights. I have heard if I hook up the existing fog light wiring to the new ones it will throw a code. Research has shown that I can buy a 50 ohm resistors but they get hot and can over heat. Another option is to tap the side markers and get it from that. Still have no clue how to do it. With this bumper there are no side markers, some have them some don't on the s63 depending on year. So I'm not sure since I don't need my side markers anymore if I could just use the wiring and hook it up to the fogs. I'll update you when I figure it out. Maybe someone knows a solution to get no error for both having no side markers now and having the fog lights on. So this is where I am at now. I'll make posts when I figure stuff out.

Gonna attach photos of the stuff.

 

should be a fun project

From what I read, you should hook up the LED running lights to the side marker wiring. That way, you won't get the bulb out warning for the side markers. If you plan on changing the headlights to the facelift style, you will need a retrofit wiring harness. That harness has provisions for the LED "fog lights" i believe.

Also, I see that you got a "distronic" grill, that's the picture you posted anyway. Does your car have distronic?

 

Xpl0sive,

I don't have distronic on my car just like the way the grille looks. Think it gives it more of a detailed stronger look. Yes that's what I was thinking tap the side markers to the fog lights so it doesn't show code that there are no longer any side marker lights. But Won't the old wires that were hooked up to the fog lights throw a code now? If someone was to try to turn the fog lights on it would throw a code? and i assume it would stay on forever? The trick to this is using the old side marker wires and keeping all light codes off......might be just a case of messing around trying to figure out the best solution. Would there be a way to close the circuit on the old fog light wires so that it thinks they are always getting power (faking it to think the bulbs are still there)?

 

it would only throw a code if someone turned the fog lights on manually. You could do a couple of things to circumvent the issue:
1. leave the foglight bulbs connected and hide them inside the bumper.
2. Pull the fuse for the foglights, although I'm not sure if there is a separate fuse
3. Code the car with STAR to tell it that the car does not have fog lights.
4. Change the light switch to 2010+ which does not have front foglights option... see pic (that one doesn't have headlight washer option or night vision camera option. You'd need to get one that suits your car's options)

 

This going to be a great project. I'm looking forward to the step by step updates!

 

Interesting if there is a fuse the best thing would be to do is just pull the fuse and use the side marker wires for the news ones. I hope it has a fuse.... Anyone know if there is or have a diagram?

 

here are all the fuses/relays in W221 and W216

 

Interesting thank you for the diagram it's a little confusing as to if there is a fuse specifically for the fog lights...Has anyone ever seen the fog light fuse and where it's located?

 

There is no fog light fuse. Its controlled by the front SAM. located under the the hood fuse box.

 

Just waiting on the bumpers to be finished with paint should be ready by the end of this week. In the mean time I got the right fog lights still the same part numbers listed above. Grille came in made by Howell out of Taiwan. Super good quality. Amg exhaust tips also came in.

 

Ok guys I got the front bumper off. I'm still so confused about how to handle the new fog lights. Picture with the 1 is the harness for the old fogs picture 2 is the harness for the side markers which I no longer need. So if I hook up to the old fogs it will throw a code because the amps are wrong? The side markers are the correct amps? Still so confused since the new s63 bumper has no side markers. So if I just completely use the side markers for the fogs will they be on all the time? And than is there a way to trick the dead old fog light harness to never throw a code if someone tried to turn them on? Also my question is if someone did turn them on it would throw a code. Does that code now stay on forever or if you shut the car off and didn't turn the fog light button back on it would stay off? I need to figure this out before I mount the bumper. Help guys!!!

 

If you want to use the fog light switch to power the new led fog lights you will need to add resistors.

You can use the side markers as a power supply for the fogs and they are direct connect and will turn fogs on whenever the side markers would be on

If you choose to use the fog harness as a power supply you will need to keep the side marker bulbs connected so they won't detect a missing bulb and throw a code.

If you choose to use the side marker for power the fog lights with throw a code if you try to power them up with the switch detecting the missing bulbs.

Here's a link that might help.

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post6606219

Hope this helped.

 

Zero car,

Thanks for the link that's very helpful, so than if I have to keep the side marker bulbs intact, how would I keep them waterproof. They obviously can't get sealed in the side marker light so I would have to find a way to keep them from water damage and also be able to change them if they went out? This is getting complicated, is there a fuse to turn off side markers, i know there isn't one for fog lights? Can the dealer recode SAM to detect the proper voltage for the new fog lights?

 

Also you said "If you choose to use the fog harness as a power supply you will need to keep the side marker bulbs connected so they won't detect a missing bulb and throw a code." but wouldn't it think the fog lights are the old side marker bulb? And not throw a code.

 

If you choose to use the fog light harness as the exclusive power supply for the new led fogs you will need to need to keep the side marker bulb in place. If you remove the bulb obviously the Sam will detect this and throw a code. Some people just hide the bulb in a dark cool spot under the fender. Some have wrapped the bulb in tape which I don't recommend. I chose to leave the bulb in the orange marker housing and wrapped it in black tape and tucked it away. Completely insulated as if it's in it's original environment. Also there is no fuse for them. They are controlled by the front Sam as well.

If you choose the side marker as an exclusive power supply for the led fogs, there will be no code throw for blown or missing parking light bulb as the led fogs and original parking bulbs are of the same resistance and will trick the Sam in thinking the correct bulbs are in place. But again with no original fog light bulbs now it will throw a fog light code if you try to power the fog lights with the switch. I hope I answered your question. I'm not sure if the dealer can recode the Sam into doing that. My information is based off of my own trial and error.

 

zero car,

yes that helped alot. So I want to use the side marker approach. It will be the exclusive power supply so like you just said SAM won't know if the bulb is the side marker or fog light. Perfect. But also like you said once I throw the fog lights on which I would never do because I don't take it off auto anyways the error code will come....but will that error code stay on now forever say if someone tried to turn it on by accident? Or would it just come on for the drive and than once the car is turned off and set back to auto it would stay off? And as discussed earlier there are no fuses to keep off old fog lights.....Just gotta figure out what to do with the old fog harness now.

Thank you ....

 

You're welcome. Just wrapp up the harness in tape and keep them safe and dry. The error will appear only for the drive and reset when the vehicle is turned off.

 

Ok I had to order the harness parts today that hook into the new fog lights. The harness comes with a long wire that is originally intended to go back to near the firewall. It was $26 plus I need the wire anyways because the side marker wires won't reach to the fog light location. Also didn't want to hard wire them in, so now I'll have the harness into the fogs. Glad to hear that error goes away and doesn't stay on the screen forever until Sam saw the bulb replaced. So if someone turned it on by mistake after the car shuts off it would go back to Normal.

 

Lookin' good Italiano!

 

Ok so got the bumpers back

$407 to paint the front rear and diffuser pieces. I thought that was an excellent deal. Got the front bumper on today but still waiting for the fog light harness to come in on Monday before I can put the wheels and fender liners back. Was super easy to change out the sensors and the temperature gauge. Honestly the hardest part of the front so far was changing the grille piece. The pull tab that comes out doesn't line up with the new grille. Took me like 45 minutes to figure out how to put the offset hood release tab on that came with the new front grille. Got no idea how to dissemble the rear bumper but I'll figure it out as I go.

Unfortunately in New York I gotta put on the front license plate. So I'm sad it's gonna cover the look of the front bumper a little.

 

don't drill that new bumper of yours! get yourself one of these tow hook mount license plate holders

 

[QUOTE=xpl0sive;6764819]don't drill that new bumper of yours! get yourself one of these tow hook mount license plate holders


Xplosive,


It broke my heart to drill the bumper, it was only 2 holes though. I looked into that tow plate but to me it's off center with the vehicle and I don't like that. If I don't put a front plate on I'll have 3 tickets before the end of the weekend. Cops don't have much to do where I live.

 

If anyone knows how to remove the rear bumper please let me know.....I saw a couple diagrams but just wondering if someone can explain the location of all the bolts..

 

it's pretty easy. I just did mine a couple weeks ago. There is a bolt on each side inside the fender well. You just peel the wheel liner back a bit and you'll see it. Then you go underneath and there are 2 small 8mm bolts on each side. they hold the bumper to the metal heat shields i think. then move towards the middle, there are two retainer "straps" on each side. They connect the middle of the bumper to the body. I believe those are 8mm bolts as well. pic below

Now move to the inside, you need to remove the trim on both sides of the trunk. There are two 10mm bolts on each side, behind all the electronics. They face down, so they bolt the inside of the car's body to the top of the bumper. Then there are two 10mm nuts on the rear panel. The parking sensor harness is connected on the passenger side. Disconnect it from inside the trunk and pull the wire through the body as you remove the bumper. There is a grommet there, it will pop out.

I'll find the WIS document for you as well in case my instructions aren't very clear lol. I should have taken some pics when I did mine...

 

here's the workshop manual link

http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...es/page_19591/