Rebellion Piggy Back Installation Thread..
So, I arranged a power install at a place called P1 Motors in Stamford Ct. This place has to be the most insane garage I have ever seen. Mostly Ferarri's but tons of other muscle cars. GTO's, Porsche GTS, Twin Turbo Ferraris, GTR's.. The list went on and on. The owner's name is Tommy and he put his best mechanic on the install.
According to him, the instructions are horrible and not very specific. For example, they do not recommend or even suggest where the module should go. There are half a dozen ways to run the wiring harness and the way we ran it we had to extend the ground wire. It could have been installed without doing so, but the idea was to get this completely hidden and by completely I mean no trace at all.
A few mods we had to make. Extending the ground. Trimming a small plastic piece to allow for the harness to clear the compartment on the passenger side, and velcro for the module to make sure it stays put.
The job took 3 hours, perhaps even more with all of the head scratching, hand contorting and attention to detail in hiding the wires. The ONLY visible wires are about 4 inches long and cross right in front, dead center above the radiator.
I will let the pictures speak for themselves. I will try to answer any questions you may have but, if you are interested in having P1 do it, I give them my highest recommendation. Not a scratch, not a single issue at all. 100% awesome.
P1 motorcars "Tommy" 203-276-0749
http://www.p1motorcars.com
You can tell them Eric or George from the MB World Forums sent ya!
Only brave souls will try this at home. Just in case others are wondering, my guy wrapped the tuning box in plastic -- see picture for location. I believe the box is weatherproof but this is what he recommended. Anyone else here running 91 Octane?
We thought about wrapping the module (box) in plastic or some sort of ziplock bag but, decided against it. Why? Because Rebellion didn't suggest it. Because it is supposed to be water tight. In addition to those reasons, we felt that the plastic wrap would retain moisture in the bag and retain heat. Where it is located there is little chance it can get wet but, the engine bay is so hot to begin with, that wrapping it with plastic might melt it or create more heat around it.
How long did your install take? Any dyno numbers?
Also, the part we shaved was exactly where your module is. Your installer didn't put it back and just removed it completely. We thought about that too but ultimately modded that part so we could slide it back and look stock
Last edited by CT-AMG; Apr 16, 2016 at 10:56 PM.
Yeah the directions are pretty terrible to be honest. Really need more then 4 photos and some better pictures of exactly what thing to unplug. The best part is where they say to "use the viewing hole" to attach boost sensor 1. Which is a 1 inch square haha.
That cover the Mb puts on all the wires is an absolute nightmare. My hands are all cut up and swollen haha.
I was actually thinking of mounting the box where you put it but I ran the wires before I thought of that and don't have enough slack.
The install took over an hour and my install guy echoed what you posted. He's an authorized Dinan guy and also installs ESS and other harnesses. This was quite the challenge.
I had the same thoughts about the plastic but he said it shouldn't be a problem. I took the picture above today and checked it -- no problems with the plastic at all. I agree -- its probably not needed but thought I'd share the pic anyway.
As for the ground, I'm not worried since my CA deals with "tuned" cars and he has a pretty good relationship with my install guy. If I experience a CEL, my install guy is just minutes from me and agreed to troubleshoot any issues before I head in to the dealer. If I need to go to the dealer, he'll remove the harness for me first.
Anyone who thinks this can just be removed and reinstalled for dealer visits is highly mistaken. The good news is that Rebellion does provide a jumper plug that allows you to remove the module and "plug" a jumper in its place for 100% stock factory readings but, the harness doesnt get removed.
Thats the main reason for my wanting no evidence of the harness, so that if I install the jumper the dealer cannot see any tell tale signs of anything.
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Glad you are getting them installed, as per our recommendation professional install would be best as it is tricky to get into the sensors. That said it can be done at home just make sure you have plenty of time and a selection of tools at your disposal.
Due to the layout of the 63 engine access is difficult and there is no easy way to get to the boost sensors along the front, the best way I have found is using smaller flat head screw drivers to release the clips and another to gently leaver the clip off.
We have installed these at customers houses with limited tools so patience is your friend on this one.
Ill keep an eye on my mails if there are any specific questions please just fire them over to info@rebellionautomotive.co.uk
Cheers,
Matt
We usually mount it just under the lip behind the headlight but the unit is water and heat proof (not direct turbo heat lol) so it is pretty hardy.
I will grab some pictures today for you.
first make sure the engine is cool. the clamp on the turbo get HOT
next you will have to remove the cap where the red arrows are. there is a clip on the back you push towards the front of the car to release it. inside you will find a sensor clips. first pull out on the white locking pin and then you should be able to un-clip the sensors.
next you want to use a torque bit and remove the remove the 4 screws per side (green arrows)
lastly you loosen the pipe clamps (yellow) and you should be able to lift the cover up and out.
make sure when putting back together you attached the pipe to the turbo fist you want to make sure that is in snug. then tighten the 4 screws. the 4 screws on each side make sure to tighten well. as that will pull the intake box together to create a seal.
you can see what it looks like with the covers removed
first make sure the engine is cool. the clamp on the turbo get HOT
next you will have to remove the cap where the red arrows are. there is a clip on the back you push towards the front of the car to release it. inside you will find a sensor clips. first pull out on the white locking pin and then you should be able to un-clip the sensors.
next you want to use a torque bit and remove the remove the 4 screws per side (green arrows)
lastly you loosen the pipe clamps (yellow) and you should be able to lift the cover up and out.
make sure when putting back together you attached the pipe to the turbo fist you want to make sure that is in snug. then tighten the 4 screws. the 4 screws on each side make sure to tighten well. as that will pull the intake box together to create a seal.
you can see what it looks like with the covers removed
When Im installing I personally mount the kit under here (see below) for RHD cars and for LHD(US SPEC) I mount on the other side.
That said as long as it is not indirect contact with excess heat it will be fine
Just realised that most guys who posted install info are in the US.
Photos of each sensor with factory harness attached and disconnected would be handy to save on guessing.


