C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015
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Sway Bar End Link Recommendations? Agency Power or ?

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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #76  
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Those NordLock things look pretty cool JD. The nuts I bought for this are already flanged with a serrated edge, and although not as good, will likely work just fine with a bit of blue Loctite. I took all of the other washers off that I was considering using, because they could impinge the rod end movement/angle. Thanks for the offer, I think they look great, and let me know how they work out.
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 05:15 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Great info on the install Mort, thanks.

I just measured my assembled end links, and at their absolute shortest length, the 7" rod center-to-center measurement is 10.25" with the 8" at 11.25". You measured the fronts, correct?

I am thinking that the 6" rods in the mail will be perfect for the front (as the 1/2" left in length adjustment on the 7" rod end links might not be enough - I could be wrong here?), and that the rears are longer so the 7" rods should work there. Wasted 8" rods, maybe I can return them.
Yes, it is the front I measured in the post above. I think the 7" rods will fit the front for you and the 6" will fit the rear. More on the rear in another post but my rear links measured 8.5" centre to centre after I installed them.
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 05:54 PM
  #78  
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Modified MB Rear Sway Bar End Links

Instead of trying to piece together rods and rod ends for the rear I decided to modify the stock end links from the car.

I measured the connecting rod on the stock link at .395 to .400". They make long nuts to join threaded rod together and the nuts are 1.75" long and available in .375 -16 thread pitch. For materials I bought a .375 - 16 die, (4) 3/8 nuts and (2) 3/8 threaded rod connectors. Total cost 16.68 Cdn.

1.) A quick measure with the suspension at normal ride height told me I needed to shorten the end links ~ 1".

2.) I turned the rod down to .365 to .370" diameter using a belt sander.








3.) I cut 1" out of the centre of the end link with a metal cut off disc in a high speed angle grinder.





4.) I threaded the ends of the rods with the die I bought in a tool handle I had from a metric tap & die set.





5.) The finished product.



6.) The install is similar to the front with the car at normal ride height I drove it onto 3" Race Ramps giving me just enough room to get the top link in place. I fastened the end links in the lower control arm and left the top ends unattached so the sway bar was in its unstressed orientation, no end links connected and held in it's neutral setting by the bonded rubber mounts. I got lucky and the shortened end links where exactly the correct length and the bolts fed easily into the sway bar. I put the nuts on them to hold them in place and jacked the car up, removed the wheels and tightened everything down. The measured length of the installed end links on my car is 8.5" centre to centre.

I don't drink so I had another coffee to celebrate....LOL

Last edited by Mort; Apr 5, 2017 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 07:29 PM
  #79  
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That's awesome Mort! I love how this thread has turned out. More info on where you got that cool die please?

Just thinking - the 7" Joes rod comes out to a minimum 10.25" endlink when fully assembled with the big rod ends, so that's good for the front. By my calculations, this means that I would need to now get 5" Joes rod for the rears, because assembled that will come out to 8.25" minimum.

I'm going to have quite the collection of spare rods when I'm done with this.
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 02:59 AM
  #80  
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Holy smokes Mort that is forward thinking! Well done!
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 08:30 AM
  #81  
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How is this very helpful and informative thread not closed yet?
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 08:34 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Those NordLock things look pretty cool JD. The nuts I bought for this are already flanged with a serrated edge, and although not as good, will likely work just fine with a bit of blue Loctite. I took all of the other washers off that I was considering using, because they could impinge the rod end movement/angle. Thanks for the offer, I think they look great, and let me know how they work out.
No worries. The nord locks are prob. overkill but I'm having fun with it! Anyway below is email response from QA1 about the grease addition:

"Hi JD,
Our XM series is a self-lubricating rod end that we don’t recommend adding anything further. If you did decide to add a lubricant we would want to see a dry lubricant used as to not attract dirt, even with the added dust boots."
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 08:46 AM
  #83  
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Nicely done mort!
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 05:44 PM
  #84  
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Hey thanks guys.

BLKROKT here is a pic of the die and the tool. You should be able to source them at any auto supply place. I got this one at a NAPA outlet for 9.49 Cdn + tax. The tool is part of a Blue Point (Snap On) metric tap set.

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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 08:54 PM
  #85  
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Hey Jim. Did you get your car back from the shop yet? How did end links work out for you?
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 09:10 PM
  #86  
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Not yet. I got a better look at everything while the car was up on the lift. The rear endlinks are much shorter than I thought, and the 5" rods are going to end up being the ones that work with these QA1 rod ends. Clearance might be an issue, not sure yet.

On a somewhat related note, the car balance from the factory is pretty good. My car weighed 3909lbs with just under a half tank of gas. Balance was dead on 50/50 left to right, and 53/47 F/R.
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 10:06 PM
  #87  
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Right on! Good to hear the car is balanced as Welles it is. I'll be ur excited to get a feel for the k-mac / club sport set up.

Yeah I was thinking after seeing morts post that 5'' bar would prob. Be the go. Due to the tight clearance I have been recently contemplating maybe going with 5/8'' - 18 threaded tubes and rod ends for the rear to reduce the OD of the endlinks. A company called DRP performance have series of tubes they call scalloped tubes that are strong and have a nice slim profile. They are more pricier than joes tubes but with the tight clearance in the back I'll prob. Order a set when I get back.
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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 08:36 PM
  #88  
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Quick update. The endlinks fit fine with no rubbing. Rear swaybar holes had to be drilled out to accommodate the larger bolts as expected. Balancing tomorrow. L/R will be easy, but not much you can do on the F/R without jacking up the front and lowering the rear an unreasonable amount. Time to lose some weight.
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #89  
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Car is done. Endlinks fit great and are super beefy compared to the OE units. Adjustability was somewhat of a non-issue since the balance was so good from the factory. Shifted 5lbs to the rear, and L/R is spot on 50/50.





Car is just slammed right now with not even a finger gap to the fenders. Have the KWs on their most neutral settings and fairly tame camber until I learn what the car and driver likes. The KMAC bushings came in real handy for fine-tuning the camber and toe, as some of the KW adjustability in front in particular is difficult to do without grinding out the top strut mount.





The car is somewhat harsh now on the street, but I expected that and am ok with it. I can feel so much more of what's going on now, the connectivity to the car and how it communicates everything now is just amazing. Between the KWs, the KMACs and the Rigid Collars..... oh my god does it handle. And predictably too.

Harry and his guys at Bergen Imports did an amazing job as always, and there's nobody I trust more with my car than those guys. Really outstanding attention to every detail.

Ready for The Glen on Mon/Tue. (after I bleed out the old SRF and change to my track pads)

Last edited by BLKROKT; Apr 22, 2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 02:56 PM
  #90  
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Congrats on your suspension Build man!

I can only imagine the track will be the true test but I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Especially with the all the time spent and considerable financial investment required to get ur chassis and suspension to race ready status. Makes me all the more excited to get my kit installed after reading your first impressions!

Have fun at the races I'll be looking forward to reading up on how it all turned out
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 04:24 PM
  #91  
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Nice Blkrokt. It's going to be awesome on the track.
Do you reckon those rigid collars made a big difference. It looks like a simple mod to do.
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 03:10 PM
  #92  
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Reviving a old thread. How did these endlink turn out?

Anyone getting any clunks?
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 04:09 PM
  #93  
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They’re great. Can’t tell if they make noise or not. Everything on my car is noisy now.
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Old Oct 25, 2018 | 08:21 AM
  #94  
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Made a new set for one of the local guys. Think these came out better than mine.

PM me if anyone is interested in a set. If I order parts in bulk I can probably get the cost down.



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Old Oct 26, 2018 | 12:56 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Made a new set for one of the local guys. Think these came out better than mine.

PM me if anyone is interested in a set. If I order parts in bulk I can probably get the cost down.



Hopefully others are interested in this!! Nothing like a set of bespoke endlinks.
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Old Oct 26, 2018 | 09:35 PM
  #96  
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How much would they be? I may be interested
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Old Oct 26, 2018 | 09:48 PM
  #97  
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Depends on if I can get parts in bulk. Right now, ordering parts as I need them, they come in at just about $400 for the F/R set.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 10:29 PM
  #98  
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Just made another set for a local forum member. I ordered a bunch of parts this time to spread out the costs for shipping etc. Have 4 sets ready to go for $500 shipped in the ConUS. PM me if interested.
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 11:00 PM
  #99  
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BUMP. I’ve got another set ready to go if anyone needs.

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Old Aug 19, 2019 | 08:28 PM
  #100  
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^ SOLD
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