Sway Bar End Link Recommendations? Agency Power or ?








I just measured my assembled end links, and at their absolute shortest length, the 7" rod center-to-center measurement is 10.25" with the 8" at 11.25". You measured the fronts, correct?
I am thinking that the 6" rods in the mail will be perfect for the front (as the 1/2" left in length adjustment on the 7" rod end links might not be enough - I could be wrong here?), and that the rears are longer so the 7" rods should work there. Wasted 8" rods, maybe I can return them.




I measured the connecting rod on the stock link at .395 to .400". They make long nuts to join threaded rod together and the nuts are 1.75" long and available in .375 -16 thread pitch. For materials I bought a .375 - 16 die, (4) 3/8 nuts and (2) 3/8 threaded rod connectors. Total cost 16.68 Cdn.
1.) A quick measure with the suspension at normal ride height told me I needed to shorten the end links ~ 1".
2.) I turned the rod down to .365 to .370" diameter using a belt sander.
3.) I cut 1" out of the centre of the end link with a metal cut off disc in a high speed angle grinder.
4.) I threaded the ends of the rods with the die I bought in a tool handle I had from a metric tap & die set.
5.) The finished product.
6.) The install is similar to the front with the car at normal ride height I drove it onto 3" Race Ramps giving me just enough room to get the top link in place. I fastened the end links in the lower control arm and left the top ends unattached so the sway bar was in its unstressed orientation, no end links connected and held in it's neutral setting by the bonded rubber mounts. I got lucky and the shortened end links where exactly the correct length and the bolts fed easily into the sway bar. I put the nuts on them to hold them in place and jacked the car up, removed the wheels and tightened everything down. The measured length of the installed end links on my car is 8.5" centre to centre.
I don't drink so I had another coffee to celebrate....LOL
Last edited by Mort; Apr 5, 2017 at 05:59 PM.




Just thinking - the 7" Joes rod comes out to a minimum 10.25" endlink when fully assembled with the big rod ends, so that's good for the front. By my calculations, this means that I would need to now get 5" Joes rod for the rears, because assembled that will come out to 8.25" minimum.
I'm going to have quite the collection of spare rods when I'm done with this.
"Hi JD,
Our XM series is a self-lubricating rod end that we don’t recommend adding anything further. If you did decide to add a lubricant we would want to see a dry lubricant used as to not attract dirt, even with the added dust boots."
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




BLKROKT here is a pic of the die and the tool. You should be able to source them at any auto supply place. I got this one at a NAPA outlet for 9.49 Cdn + tax. The tool is part of a Blue Point (Snap On) metric tap set.




On a somewhat related note, the car balance from the factory is pretty good. My car weighed 3909lbs with just under a half tank of gas. Balance was dead on 50/50 left to right, and 53/47 F/R.
Yeah I was thinking after seeing morts post that 5'' bar would prob. Be the go. Due to the tight clearance I have been recently contemplating maybe going with 5/8'' - 18 threaded tubes and rod ends for the rear to reduce the OD of the endlinks. A company called DRP performance have series of tubes they call scalloped tubes that are strong and have a nice slim profile. They are more pricier than joes tubes but with the tight clearance in the back I'll prob. Order a set when I get back.








Car is just slammed right now with not even a finger gap to the fenders. Have the KWs on their most neutral settings and fairly tame camber until I learn what the car and driver likes. The KMAC bushings came in real handy for fine-tuning the camber and toe, as some of the KW adjustability in front in particular is difficult to do without grinding out the top strut mount.
The car is somewhat harsh now on the street, but I expected that and am ok with it. I can feel so much more of what's going on now, the connectivity to the car and how it communicates everything now is just amazing. Between the KWs, the KMACs and the Rigid Collars..... oh my god does it handle. And predictably too.
Harry and his guys at Bergen Imports did an amazing job as always, and there's nobody I trust more with my car than those guys. Really outstanding attention to every detail.
Ready for The Glen on Mon/Tue. (after I bleed out the old SRF and change to my track pads)
Last edited by BLKROKT; Apr 22, 2017 at 02:18 PM.
I can only imagine the track will be the true test but I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Especially with the all the time spent and considerable financial investment required to get ur chassis and suspension to race ready status. Makes me all the more excited to get my kit installed after reading your first impressions!
Have fun at the races
I'll be looking forward to reading up on how it all turned out



PM me if anyone is interested in a set. If I order parts in bulk I can probably get the cost down.












