Battery Protection: Convenience functions temporarily unavailable
#1
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Thread Starter
Battery Protection: Convenience functions temporarily unavailable
Hi all,
I have a 2004 Mercedes Benz E270 CDI, I keep getting the following error: "battery protection convenience functions temporarily unavailable"
I have read quite a few post already and have now replaced the Aux battery and the Main Battery but still getting the error.
When starting the car after its been switch off for a while (-+5 hours) the error is gone, but 10-15min later the error comes back up.
I went to MB dealership this morning and they are saying they cannot pick up any issue with the batteries (Aux and Main) and now need to book the car in for diagnostics and they are charging me an arm and a leg....
I have also tested if the alternator is charging the batteries, when car is Idling I get 14.0V on main battery and 12.95V on Aux battery, so I'm assuming that the alternator is working and charging the batteries.
Do you guys have any advise that I can try?
I have a 2004 Mercedes Benz E270 CDI, I keep getting the following error: "battery protection convenience functions temporarily unavailable"
I have read quite a few post already and have now replaced the Aux battery and the Main Battery but still getting the error.
When starting the car after its been switch off for a while (-+5 hours) the error is gone, but 10-15min later the error comes back up.
I went to MB dealership this morning and they are saying they cannot pick up any issue with the batteries (Aux and Main) and now need to book the car in for diagnostics and they are charging me an arm and a leg....
I have also tested if the alternator is charging the batteries, when car is Idling I get 14.0V on main battery and 12.95V on Aux battery, so I'm assuming that the alternator is working and charging the batteries.
Do you guys have any advise that I can try?
#2
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'71 Pinto
Definitive diagnose have someone do a quick test using MB DAS (diagnostics) could be the BCM.
Last edited by konigstiger; 09-04-2022 at 11:01 AM.
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Martin_Hattingh (01-03-2018)
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The system is very complex and prone to schizophrenia IMHO.
When tiger's page says the shutoff should not happen above 11V, I had it coming dozens of times on my vacations, when I was monitoring car voltage at 14V.
No wonder scanner-oriented technicians have hard time to troubleshoot it.
In my case, after some leg work I had battery clamp bolt not torqued. The loose connection would start the engine just fine, but then crazy computer would turn the blowers off in stage 1
That happen after about 4000 miles since I bought the car, so that is the period when loose connection started to act.
So start with really good inspection of batteries and their connections.
When tiger's page says the shutoff should not happen above 11V, I had it coming dozens of times on my vacations, when I was monitoring car voltage at 14V.
No wonder scanner-oriented technicians have hard time to troubleshoot it.
In my case, after some leg work I had battery clamp bolt not torqued. The loose connection would start the engine just fine, but then crazy computer would turn the blowers off in stage 1
That happen after about 4000 miles since I bought the car, so that is the period when loose connection started to act.
So start with really good inspection of batteries and their connections.
Last edited by kajtek1; 01-02-2018 at 01:31 PM.
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Martin_Hattingh (01-03-2018)
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
I should hope the battery connections are good seeing the battery was replaced. Was a 658 battery fitted or a MB battery?
Also check for water damage to battery module.
Where in SA are you?
Also check for water damage to battery module.
Where in SA are you?
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Did not buy battery from MB as they quoted me R4160 for the battery and Tiger Wheel and Tyre gave me the exact same battery for R1600
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
*Update*
Last night I put both the Aux and Main battery on a battery charger.
The Aux battery was immediately showing "Full"
The Main battery however took about 15min then showed full, I then reconnected both batteries and started the car, error went away.
I left the car running for about 10min under full load (Radio, Interior lights, Head lights, Aircon, etc) and the error never came back, the voltage on the dashboard stayed at 13.9 Volts during the load test.
This morning still no error, took the car for a drive and 5min later error is back
Last night I put both the Aux and Main battery on a battery charger.
The Aux battery was immediately showing "Full"
The Main battery however took about 15min then showed full, I then reconnected both batteries and started the car, error went away.
I left the car running for about 10min under full load (Radio, Interior lights, Head lights, Aircon, etc) and the error never came back, the voltage on the dashboard stayed at 13.9 Volts during the load test.
This morning still no error, took the car for a drive and 5min later error is back
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
The system is very complex and prone to schizophrenia IMHO.
When tiger's page says the shutoff should not happen above 11V, I had it coming dozens of times on my vacations, when I was monitoring car voltage at 14V.
No wonder scanner-oriented technicians have hard time to troubleshoot it.
In my case, after some leg work I had battery clamp bolt not torqued. The loose connection would start the engine just fine, but then crazy computer would turn the blowers off in stage 1
That happen after about 4000 miles since I bought the car, so that is the period when loose connection started to act.
So start with really good inspection of batteries and their connections.
When tiger's page says the shutoff should not happen above 11V, I had it coming dozens of times on my vacations, when I was monitoring car voltage at 14V.
No wonder scanner-oriented technicians have hard time to troubleshoot it.
In my case, after some leg work I had battery clamp bolt not torqued. The loose connection would start the engine just fine, but then crazy computer would turn the blowers off in stage 1
That happen after about 4000 miles since I bought the car, so that is the period when loose connection started to act.
So start with really good inspection of batteries and their connections.
Battery terminals are also nice and clean, no corrosion
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's not impossible you have a faulty battery. The consumer shutoff will relate to main battery not the aux battery. 652c will work fine without any issues.
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Not much I can do in Cape Town need to put it on diagnostic tool and see what it says and I'm not paying MB R700 an hour for that.
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Martin_Hattingh (01-03-2018)
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks, I did unplug it last night to check everything looked fine, I did not however open it up, did not know if that was a good idea... Will check that this afternoon.
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Martin_Hattingh (01-03-2018)
#13
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Thread Starter
*Update*
So I opened up the BCM and there is no water damage, double checked the pins and they are neat and clean.
After fitting the BCM, I started the car and error was gone again, so I opened the Voltage check on the cluster display and it was showing 13.6V.
Took the car for a drive while showing the voltage on the display cluster and after a kilometer or so the error came back even though voltage was still showing in the range of 13.2V and 13.6V while driving.
So I opened up the BCM and there is no water damage, double checked the pins and they are neat and clean.
After fitting the BCM, I started the car and error was gone again, so I opened the Voltage check on the cluster display and it was showing 13.6V.
Took the car for a drive while showing the voltage on the display cluster and after a kilometer or so the error came back even though voltage was still showing in the range of 13.2V and 13.6V while driving.
#16
Super Member
My take on this is your voltage regulator. Your car should be reading 14.1 to 14.2 volts at ALL times once driven for a mile or after five minutes.
On my cdi, I got the battery convenience red warming one time in early December (I turned the key off, removed it, and when I restarted the car, the warning was gone). Prior to that I noticed the car cranking slower than normal, especially in the morning. I had the voltage regulator replaced about a year ago and I get a steady 14.1 volts. I did install a new battery before the holidays. One thing I have been noticing with the charging is that when I first start it in the morning, the voltage will read 13.8 to 13.9 volts for about the first five minutes. I believe this is caused by the load of the auxiliary heater for the cabin until the water (radiator) gets hot enough to supply cabin heat. If the car is warm, it will jump to 14.1 volts upon starting. Another thing I noticed is that even with a new battery and not having it charged to 100-percent when I initially turn the key on, the voltage would read 12.5 volts. Turning the key another "notch" to get the glow plugs to light, the voltage drops to the lower 11 volts. Cranking the car, the voltage dropped to approximately 10.5 volts.
After taking it for a two hour drive, the battery readings were better all around. The voltage readings were mostly at 14.1 and 14.2 volts, but would peak at 14.3 for 10 or 15 seconds at a time. This is while moving at 75mph.
Mike T.
On my cdi, I got the battery convenience red warming one time in early December (I turned the key off, removed it, and when I restarted the car, the warning was gone). Prior to that I noticed the car cranking slower than normal, especially in the morning. I had the voltage regulator replaced about a year ago and I get a steady 14.1 volts. I did install a new battery before the holidays. One thing I have been noticing with the charging is that when I first start it in the morning, the voltage will read 13.8 to 13.9 volts for about the first five minutes. I believe this is caused by the load of the auxiliary heater for the cabin until the water (radiator) gets hot enough to supply cabin heat. If the car is warm, it will jump to 14.1 volts upon starting. Another thing I noticed is that even with a new battery and not having it charged to 100-percent when I initially turn the key on, the voltage would read 12.5 volts. Turning the key another "notch" to get the glow plugs to light, the voltage drops to the lower 11 volts. Cranking the car, the voltage dropped to approximately 10.5 volts.
After taking it for a two hour drive, the battery readings were better all around. The voltage readings were mostly at 14.1 and 14.2 volts, but would peak at 14.3 for 10 or 15 seconds at a time. This is while moving at 75mph.
Mike T.
#17
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2019 w447 V-class
I think I have the same problem
my car is a w211 270cdi touring
I just bought the car. Last week.
I bought it like this.
When I went to buy it. I started it up. It said
battery protection: convenience mode off.
But after running it for 10-15 min test drive. Shut off and turned on again. It said nothing. And still drives fine. The seller swore it was working a month ago when he got the car in a swither.
But the car had been sitting for a month.
Why hasn't my car gone back to convenience mode on again.
But the blower for the A/C/ climate control doesn't work. And my screens for the climate controls and command is very dim lit
I just bought the car. Last week.
I bought it like this.
When I went to buy it. I started it up. It said
battery protection: convenience mode off.
But after running it for 10-15 min test drive. Shut off and turned on again. It said nothing. And still drives fine. The seller swore it was working a month ago when he got the car in a swither.
But the car had been sitting for a month.
Why hasn't my car gone back to convenience mode on again.
But the blower for the A/C/ climate control doesn't work. And my screens for the climate controls and command is very dim lit
#18
Did you find a solution for your problem. I experience the same now.
My car is a 2003 E270 CDI, it has run 2200.000 KM
I had my main battery and generator exchange last spring. No problems during the summer, but just before christmas a drove through Germany a 10 hour drive. After 5 hours this same message showed up. "Battery protection Functions temporarily unavailable."
It only turned of when I meet heavy traffic and drove slovely, short time after hitting full speed it turned the error came back.
Anyway, very curious to what the solution may be.
My car is a 2003 E270 CDI, it has run 2200.000 KM
I had my main battery and generator exchange last spring. No problems during the summer, but just before christmas a drove through Germany a 10 hour drive. After 5 hours this same message showed up. "Battery protection Functions temporarily unavailable."
It only turned of when I meet heavy traffic and drove slovely, short time after hitting full speed it turned the error came back.
Anyway, very curious to what the solution may be.
#19
Battery protection: convenience function temporarily unavailable even after changing
Did anyone get the solution for this?? I recently changed both my batteries (aftermarket) and the voltage reading shows steady 14.0-14.1 in drive or idle. But the battery protection convince functions are temporarily unavailable messages pop up and goes off every now and then. When this message appears the interior lights cigarette lighter and the ac fan speed doesn't increase from a particular low fan speed. And when the message goes off everything be normal. Just kinda losing it since going to mechanics is just either a waste of time or asking stacks to repair it without telling the issue.
#20
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Any stored MB codes, as I suggested previously on this thread could be BCM - MBUSA released a Service Campaign for this problem, see attachment.
Last edited by konigstiger; 09-04-2022 at 11:10 AM.