e350 2009 transmission fluid and filter basic help
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
e350 2009 transmission fluid and filter basic help
Looking for any write ups or guidance on how to change the transmission fluid. I see the "kit" comes with a gasket. Is this a hard job for a DIY type of guy?
Also, I am still not quite sure where the jacking points are for the W211 chassis. Thank you. I will update this thread when possible.
Also, I am still not quite sure where the jacking points are for the W211 chassis. Thank you. I will update this thread when possible.
#2
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Thread Starter
Got a message from a friendly forum member advising against a "Drain and fill" old school style. Vacume pumps are used to prevent air being entered into tranny fluid service in this car. I will hold off. Perhaps I should focus on smaller things like an oil change service for now till I get used to the car.
#3
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2016 E350 4Matic; 2018 GLC300 4Matic; 2005 C55; 2003 360 Modena
The instructions from Mercedes WIS is drain and refill. Should you have a torque converter drain plug, that's an added step. Mercedes does not list a vacuum pump as part of the work steps.
#4
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Thread Starter
Just being a n00b here and asking for basic advise...
I have read repeatedly that 20L are needed to flush the entire transmission fluid system. However, all the youtube videos I watch simply drop the transmission pan, change the filter, ect.... Just want to do a drain and fill....
My question is this: how many quarts should I realistically have on hand to fill the car back up if I drain transmission fluid instead of a flush? I am asking because I am worried that I will have to order fluid online and will not order enough. 5 liters? 10 liters just to be safe?
So far, I understand I need the pan gasket, that one sensor just incase, filter, and fluid on hand. I am still trying to figure out what to use as a dipstick
I have read repeatedly that 20L are needed to flush the entire transmission fluid system. However, all the youtube videos I watch simply drop the transmission pan, change the filter, ect.... Just want to do a drain and fill....
My question is this: how many quarts should I realistically have on hand to fill the car back up if I drain transmission fluid instead of a flush? I am asking because I am worried that I will have to order fluid online and will not order enough. 5 liters? 10 liters just to be safe?
So far, I understand I need the pan gasket, that one sensor just incase, filter, and fluid on hand. I am still trying to figure out what to use as a dipstick
#5
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Just get a case of Shell ATF 134 from a Shell distributor. About $60 for a case of 12 quarts.
https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html
https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
thank you very much for the info. Do I ask a mechanic to order for me or do i just show up at the distributor store front?
Last edited by e350forme; 08-15-2018 at 11:32 AM.
#7
Junior Member
Ive done the ATF change twice on my car, make sure you also change the transmission pan gasket, dont worry about over filling the transmission. allow the fluid to reach 25 Celsius using an OBD or star, IR thermometer works aswell. Once the transmission reaches 25 Celsius unscrew the drain bolt and allow fluid to drain until it slows to a steady drip. Then run the car throw all the gears multiple times with your foot on the brake.
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#8
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#9
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thats right, 20$ a qt at dealership.
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
#10
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
thats right, 20$ a qt at dealership.
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
#11
Super Member
Its really much better to get all the old fluid out as it wears out and doesnt provide proper lubrication. If you have a drain plug its not difficult to take the extra steps.
I did a full flush on my 722.6 by disconecting the return line at the trans cooler hooking up a 5/8” ID hose and pumping it out a quart or two at a time by running the engine after I had replaced the filter and resealed the trans and adding the amount the came out the trans. Stopping the engine then adding two quarts until the fluid came out clear and red. I didn’t bother checking the TC if it had a drain plug because I wanted the fluid out of the cooler as well. You can use a clear milk jug and pour a quart of water one at a time, marking the jug after each quart. I don’t believe my fluid had ever been changed, it was black at 114K miles. Owners Manual said it was sealed for life. Haha. Also you will need the proper mercedes dipstick. I dont know if the 722.6 dipstick would work for the 722.9.
Last edited by ot1; 08-22-2018 at 10:22 AM.
#12
Senior Member
Looking for any write ups or guidance on how to change the transmission fluid. I see the "kit" comes with a gasket. Is this a hard job for a DIY type of guy?
Also, I am still not quite sure where the jacking points are for the W211 chassis. Thank you. I will update this thread when possible.
Also, I am still not quite sure where the jacking points are for the W211 chassis. Thank you. I will update this thread when possible.
Your W211 should have 722.9xx i7G-Tronic 7-speed transmission, but please check to make sure.
Here is a link to very detailed instructions for oil change:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ce-thread.html
Last edited by arto_wa; 08-22-2018 at 09:58 AM.
#13
Senior Member
thats right, 20$ a qt at dealership.
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
After having reread your posts above I urge you to do more homework on your 722.9xx i7G-Tronic 7-speed transmission before attempting oil change!
For example you stated: "my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe"
Question:
Are you sure the transmission in your 2009 W211 has a dipstick tube?
- My 722.9xx transmission does not have dipstick tube at all, instead the oil level is determined by overflow method described in the thread below (and MB shop manual).
- Since there is no dipstick or tube, it has the be refilled through the oil drain on the bottom of the pan by a pump.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-thread-6.html
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for all the tips and tricks. Especially the video to drain torque convertor. I have a 722.6 tranny with the dipstick tube (just no dipstick =)
After having reread your posts above I urge you to do more homework on your 722.9xx i7G-Tronic 7-speed transmission before attempting oil change!
For example you stated: "my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe"
Question:
Are you sure the transmission in your 2009 W211 has a dipstick tube?
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-thread-6.html
For example you stated: "my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe"
Question:
Are you sure the transmission in your 2009 W211 has a dipstick tube?
- My 722.9xx transmission does not have dipstick tube at all, instead the oil level is determined by overflow method described in the thread below (and MB shop manual).
- Since there is no dipstick or tube, it has the be refilled through the oil drain on the bottom of the pan by a pump.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-thread-6.html
#15
Senior Member
Well here's one more, I had downloaded the enclosed couple of years ago - wish I could remember who posted the 722.6 AT oil & filter change instruction on this forum?
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Followed above directions. Very easy to drain ATF via the drain plug and the replace the transmission filter.
I was unable to rotate the engine by hand from underneath to access the drain plug for the torque convertor (as demonstrated in video by OT1 above). I would assume perhaps a second set of hands with a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt would enable me to access the torque convertor drain plug. Next time perhaps? I have 8 more quarts of ATF left over, only used about 4 so far by emptying the pan.
When I drain the transmission fluid, does that count as replacing the "transfer case" fluid? do they share fluid?
I was unable to rotate the engine by hand from underneath to access the drain plug for the torque convertor (as demonstrated in video by OT1 above). I would assume perhaps a second set of hands with a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt would enable me to access the torque convertor drain plug. Next time perhaps? I have 8 more quarts of ATF left over, only used about 4 so far by emptying the pan.
When I drain the transmission fluid, does that count as replacing the "transfer case" fluid? do they share fluid?
#17
Senior Member
I don't know about the transfer case fluid volume, but only one set of hands is needed to rotate the engine with a long handled ratchet or normal length breaker bar.
It would be helpful to have someone else watching where to stop so the drain plug is aligned in to proper spot. Put a visible color mark in the front pulley when you found the right spot so you can do it alone next time.
It would be helpful to have someone else watching where to stop so the drain plug is aligned in to proper spot. Put a visible color mark in the front pulley when you found the right spot so you can do it alone next time.
#18
Super Member
thats right, 20$ a qt at dealership.
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
Sory for all the noob questions, over thinking this one. I called the distributor and they dont have the fluid I need.
I have no maintenence history on my vehicle. Before I dig in and start replacing fluid, my plan is to assess color of the fluid by jamming down a length of thin clear vacuum tubing and suck some fluid out with a syringe
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was able to check with the correct dipstick what my fluid looks. The picture below is with it cold, but either way, there are quite a few metal shavings. I doubt the dipstick is magnetic. I only drained by gravity 5 quarts of transmission fluid via pan, and did not drain torque convertor that time. To make things worse, I have been driving the car like a normal person (aka not grandmother mother) and I am sure I got the gearbox spinning a bit more since I like the paddle shifters, more wearing with how i drive it vs previous owner
My goal for next fill/drain will be to drain torque convertor OR "Disconnect the return line at the trans cooler " as mentioned by forum member OT1.
My fluid looks like **** I think! in my defense, I would have done job right the first time but It was my first time under car and had a case of noob-itis, was overwhelmed by removing the tranny pan and filter business
My goal for next fill/drain will be to drain torque convertor OR "Disconnect the return line at the trans cooler " as mentioned by forum member OT1.
My fluid looks like **** I think! in my defense, I would have done job right the first time but It was my first time under car and had a case of noob-itis, was overwhelmed by removing the tranny pan and filter business
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have the 4 speed automatic transmission, not the 7 speed. Thus I have access to dipstick.
I will do another drain and hopefully drain torque convertor this time, or find the transmission cooler liner and do more of an actual "flush" that way. pretty simple but hard to get under car these days with weather. On the other hand, dont want to be driving around with all those metal flakes in the fluid
I will do another drain and hopefully drain torque convertor this time, or find the transmission cooler liner and do more of an actual "flush" that way. pretty simple but hard to get under car these days with weather. On the other hand, dont want to be driving around with all those metal flakes in the fluid