2012 GL450 80k miles lifetime
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2012 GL450 80k miles lifetime
Hello, I have a 2012 GL450 80k miles and I am wondering if someone have experience with how many miles before major problems, and what those could be? I am debating to get a 2019 GLS or just bite the bullet and pay for repairs considering the big depreciation of new GLS ~$10k+ per year. So far I have front steering column, and 4 air suspension replaced. Thank you!
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2003
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
The 450 is not expensive to maintain. Just fluid and filter changes along with the normal wear and tire items such as brakes, tires, shocks, etc. Again, very cheap to own. I've got around 250k miles and has been the most inexpensive MB I've owned to date. Now, mine is starting to show signs of the balance shaft issues but it still runs great and probably will continue to do so until it just stops. I believe the 2012 had the balance shaft issue resolved. Another point of reference, the second 100k+ miles on my GL450 was more dependable than the first 100k miles.
#4
Super Member
The 450 is not expensive to maintain. Just fluid and filter changes along with the normal wear and tire items such as brakes, tires, shocks, etc. Again, very cheap to own. I've got around 250k miles and has been the most inexpensive MB I've owned to date. Now, mine is starting to show signs of the balance shaft issues but it still runs great and probably will continue to do so until it just stops. I believe the 2012 had the balance shaft issue resolved. Another point of reference, the second 100k+ miles on my GL450 was more dependable than the first 100k miles.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you Kombifan!
It looks like I have 80k miles. I am thinking to own it for another 20k miles then probably sale it for a new GLS. Hopefully nothing breaks in between that time. What do you think or you think I can hold on to my GL longer?
It looks like I have 80k miles. I am thinking to own it for another 20k miles then probably sale it for a new GLS. Hopefully nothing breaks in between that time. What do you think or you think I can hold on to my GL longer?
#7
Super Member
Mine was also a CPO owned by an older Korean gentleman who took good care of before I owned it. Fingers crossed 🤞.
Also owned a 09 clk 350 09 clk550 and a 14 c250 and they were pretty much trouble free minus routine maintenance. The clk550 went through rear tires like they were going out of fashion. Lol.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
You've had the main worry l replaced. The suspension bits.
What happened to your steering column?
It should be pretty good from now on. The suspension is the one bit that causes people to dump it because it's a big expense in one go.
Keep an eye on your leveling arms/rods. Spray them with some wd 40. It will keep them clean and keep them.mobile.
For fun...I would recommend replacing your sway bar endlinks pre-emptively. Youll notice a difference when you do. It's cheap if you can diy. And about 200 at the dealership.
It's pretty reliable. Youll probably want to get the airbaf switched out for the takata recall. They give you new buttons too. If the steering column starts making noise, have them replace the clocksprimg and housing at their cost. Thats what they did to me.
I also had to replace the trunk lock actuator and sensor. But that doesn't always need replacing with everyone. Your a 12. So j hope they fixed it by them. I'm a 10.
The jntake manifold. Eh. You don't really need to do anything. My extended warranty paid for all my repairs so I just tell my sa. Find as much as you can when I'm in and just fix it.
The blower (the cooling fan) was bad luck. I think a newbie tech recharged the ac system incorrectly and blew up the blower...hence that needed replacing. Sounded like an air plane taking off.
I've got some (alot) pulleys and a belt tensioner. But they are normal wear and tear. If it goes buy the kit from fcp euro and have an independent mechanic fix it.
If you get a lot of errors or electrical glitches in the future. Don't worry. It just means the battery is dead. Replace it and the auxiliary battery. The aux battery controls the transmission. I'm still on original if you can believe it.
What happened to your steering column?
It should be pretty good from now on. The suspension is the one bit that causes people to dump it because it's a big expense in one go.
Keep an eye on your leveling arms/rods. Spray them with some wd 40. It will keep them clean and keep them.mobile.
For fun...I would recommend replacing your sway bar endlinks pre-emptively. Youll notice a difference when you do. It's cheap if you can diy. And about 200 at the dealership.
It's pretty reliable. Youll probably want to get the airbaf switched out for the takata recall. They give you new buttons too. If the steering column starts making noise, have them replace the clocksprimg and housing at their cost. Thats what they did to me.
I also had to replace the trunk lock actuator and sensor. But that doesn't always need replacing with everyone. Your a 12. So j hope they fixed it by them. I'm a 10.
The jntake manifold. Eh. You don't really need to do anything. My extended warranty paid for all my repairs so I just tell my sa. Find as much as you can when I'm in and just fix it.
The blower (the cooling fan) was bad luck. I think a newbie tech recharged the ac system incorrectly and blew up the blower...hence that needed replacing. Sounded like an air plane taking off.
I've got some (alot) pulleys and a belt tensioner. But they are normal wear and tear. If it goes buy the kit from fcp euro and have an independent mechanic fix it.
If you get a lot of errors or electrical glitches in the future. Don't worry. It just means the battery is dead. Replace it and the auxiliary battery. The aux battery controls the transmission. I'm still on original if you can believe it.
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omega48er (05-27-2019)
#9
Super Member
You've had the main worry l replaced. The suspension bits.
What happened to your steering column?
It should be pretty good from now on. The suspension is the one bit that causes people to dump it because it's a big expense in one go.
Keep an eye on your leveling arms/rods. Spray them with some wd 40. It will keep them clean and keep them.mobile.
For fun...I would recommend replacing your sway bar endlinks pre-emptively. Youll notice a difference when you do. It's cheap if you can diy. And about 200 at the dealership.
It's pretty reliable. Youll probably want to get the airbaf switched out for the takata recall. They give you new buttons too. If the steering column starts making noise, have them replace the clocksprimg and housing at their cost. Thats what they did to me.
I also had to replace the trunk lock actuator and sensor. But that doesn't always need replacing with everyone. Your a 12. So j hope they fixed it by them. I'm a 10.
The jntake manifold. Eh. You don't really need to do anything. My extended warranty paid for all my repairs so I just tell my sa. Find as much as you can when I'm in and just fix it.
The blower (the cooling fan) was bad luck. I think a newbie tech recharged the ac system incorrectly and blew up the blower...hence that needed replacing. Sounded like an air plane taking off.
I've got some (alot) pulleys and a belt tensioner. But they are normal wear and tear. If it goes buy the kit from fcp euro and have an independent mechanic fix it.
If you get a lot of errors or electrical glitches in the future. Don't worry. It just means the battery is dead. Replace it and the auxiliary battery. The aux battery controls the transmission. I'm still on original if you can believe it.
What happened to your steering column?
It should be pretty good from now on. The suspension is the one bit that causes people to dump it because it's a big expense in one go.
Keep an eye on your leveling arms/rods. Spray them with some wd 40. It will keep them clean and keep them.mobile.
For fun...I would recommend replacing your sway bar endlinks pre-emptively. Youll notice a difference when you do. It's cheap if you can diy. And about 200 at the dealership.
It's pretty reliable. Youll probably want to get the airbaf switched out for the takata recall. They give you new buttons too. If the steering column starts making noise, have them replace the clocksprimg and housing at their cost. Thats what they did to me.
I also had to replace the trunk lock actuator and sensor. But that doesn't always need replacing with everyone. Your a 12. So j hope they fixed it by them. I'm a 10.
The jntake manifold. Eh. You don't really need to do anything. My extended warranty paid for all my repairs so I just tell my sa. Find as much as you can when I'm in and just fix it.
The blower (the cooling fan) was bad luck. I think a newbie tech recharged the ac system incorrectly and blew up the blower...hence that needed replacing. Sounded like an air plane taking off.
I've got some (alot) pulleys and a belt tensioner. But they are normal wear and tear. If it goes buy the kit from fcp euro and have an independent mechanic fix it.
If you get a lot of errors or electrical glitches in the future. Don't worry. It just means the battery is dead. Replace it and the auxiliary battery. The aux battery controls the transmission. I'm still on original if you can believe it.
Thanks!
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
My tranny pan rusted through. It was infuriating for me personally because only 6k mi earlier I had gotten the flush. Pretty upset they didn't notice it then. But I noticed it when it started leaking red fluid on my garage floor.
As the vent valve kit on fcp euro and thebpluga and other bits are a must. I think any reasonably handy person can diy that. The kit is in fcp euro under our cars and the problem is that it seeps out oil with age. Doing the repair will also clean up some of the gunk when you open it up.
My car at 97k runs better than it did at 60k.
Ive put it for sale for the amount of receipts that have totalled in it's lifetimes but I'll never get it out. So I'll just keep it.
P.s. Try the Liqui molly engine flush and oil to get rid of some of the ticking noise you hear.
#11
Senior Member
Now for my question.. I have a 2012 GL350 I bought new which now has 68,000 miles. I have replaced the internal engine oil seal at 50,000 miles, transmission service at 40,000 miles, installed all (4) air shocks and brakes. Being a diesel, what issues can I expect to be a problem in the near future. I must say after 7 years of ownership this has been a wonderful car but I’m thinking its time to list it on Craigslist and upgrade to a new car.
Any thoughts?
Thank you
Any thoughts?
Thank you
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Now for my question.. I have a 2012 GL350 I bought new which now has 68,000 miles. I have replaced the internal engine oil seal at 50,000 miles, transmission service at 40,000 miles, installed all (4) air shocks and brakes. Being a diesel, what issues can I expect to be a problem in the near future. I must say after 7 years of ownership this has been a wonderful car but I’m thinking its time to list it on Craigslist and upgrade to a new car.
Any thoughts?
Thank you
Any thoughts?
Thank you
What region are you in?
The dpf will clog up at some point. The o2 sensors will play up. The dpf heater and tank will break.
The egr swirl flaps will clog.
The engine mounts will melt.
I hope you have been doing really regular oil changeas the engine also likes to seize due to sludge.
If you are aware of these issues. Willing to psrhaps do a diesel tune to rid yourself of some emissions problems. Then yes the diesel can almost be as reliable as the gas model.
The issues I mentioned are unique to the US market.
Oh yes. And the timing chain rattle and plastic guide tensionrss will need to be replaced.
#13
Senior Member
Kombifan...
I’m located in central California an hour east of San Francisco, Ca. I’ve had this vehicle regularly serviced by my local Mercedes service center and follow all maintenance recommendations. Thank you for the information and have decided to sell my GL350 for a new vehicle.
I’m located in central California an hour east of San Francisco, Ca. I’ve had this vehicle regularly serviced by my local Mercedes service center and follow all maintenance recommendations. Thank you for the information and have decided to sell my GL350 for a new vehicle.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sorry.
That wasn't my intention. 😕 it's because you are in a warm weather climate that you have been relatively trouble free.
http://www.stephensservice.com/blog/
That wasn't my intention. 😕 it's because you are in a warm weather climate that you have been relatively trouble free.
http://www.stephensservice.com/blog/
#15
Senior Member
Thanks Kombifan...
I didn’t take your information negatively but as a reference to help me decide on moving on to another vehicle!
Have great Memorial Day with family and friends!
I didn’t take your information negatively but as a reference to help me decide on moving on to another vehicle!
Have great Memorial Day with family and friends!
#16
Member
The GL450 is an awesome SUV
You've had the main worry l replaced. The suspension bits.
What happened to your steering column?
It should be pretty good from now on. The suspension is the one bit that causes people to dump it because it's a big expense in one go.
Keep an eye on your leveling arms/rods. Spray them with some wd 40. It will keep them clean and keep them.mobile.
For fun...I would recommend replacing your sway bar endlinks pre-emptively. Youll notice a difference when you do. It's cheap if you can diy. And about 200 at the dealership.
It's pretty reliable. Youll probably want to get the airbaf switched out for the takata recall. They give you new buttons too. If the steering column starts making noise, have them replace the clocksprimg and housing at their cost. Thats what they did to me.
I also had to replace the trunk lock actuator and sensor. But that doesn't always need replacing with everyone. Your a 12. So j hope they fixed it by them. I'm a 10.
The jntake manifold. Eh. You don't really need to do anything. My extended warranty paid for all my repairs so I just tell my sa. Find as much as you can when I'm in and just fix it.
The blower (the cooling fan) was bad luck. I think a newbie tech recharged the ac system incorrectly and blew up the blower...hence that needed replacing. Sounded like an air plane taking off.
I've got some (alot) pulleys and a belt tensioner. But they are normal wear and tear. If it goes buy the kit from fcp euro and have an independent mechanic fix it.
If you get a lot of errors or electrical glitches in the future. Don't worry. It just means the battery is dead. Replace it and the auxiliary battery. The aux battery controls the transmission. I'm still on original if you can believe it.
What happened to your steering column?
It should be pretty good from now on. The suspension is the one bit that causes people to dump it because it's a big expense in one go.
Keep an eye on your leveling arms/rods. Spray them with some wd 40. It will keep them clean and keep them.mobile.
For fun...I would recommend replacing your sway bar endlinks pre-emptively. Youll notice a difference when you do. It's cheap if you can diy. And about 200 at the dealership.
It's pretty reliable. Youll probably want to get the airbaf switched out for the takata recall. They give you new buttons too. If the steering column starts making noise, have them replace the clocksprimg and housing at their cost. Thats what they did to me.
I also had to replace the trunk lock actuator and sensor. But that doesn't always need replacing with everyone. Your a 12. So j hope they fixed it by them. I'm a 10.
The jntake manifold. Eh. You don't really need to do anything. My extended warranty paid for all my repairs so I just tell my sa. Find as much as you can when I'm in and just fix it.
The blower (the cooling fan) was bad luck. I think a newbie tech recharged the ac system incorrectly and blew up the blower...hence that needed replacing. Sounded like an air plane taking off.
I've got some (alot) pulleys and a belt tensioner. But they are normal wear and tear. If it goes buy the kit from fcp euro and have an independent mechanic fix it.
If you get a lot of errors or electrical glitches in the future. Don't worry. It just means the battery is dead. Replace it and the auxiliary battery. The aux battery controls the transmission. I'm still on original if you can believe it.
#17
Super Member
Reading through the above post(s) it sounds like doom and gloom for the GL. That's not the case here or for many GLs on the road. Kombi - sorry you've had such bad luck with your GL. For a 2010 vehicle with less than 100K, I think you've been unlucky. I've owned my '07 GL450 since new and I can say that at 182K miles, it runs and drives as good as new. I can steer it at 85mph on a Texas toll road with one finger. It's got plenty of get up and go and the 4matic suspension and air ride is still awesome. To replace this type of performance, quality and ride will cost $85K+ new to replicate. It's disheartening the above posts have scared off the OP to get rid of the GL and opt for a new one. I hope they reconsider and keep their GL.
My GL gas 65k miles and I love it so far. Only wish I could have purchased the 2012 550 but, the premium was not worth it in my case
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Reading through the above post(s) it sounds like doom and gloom for the GL. That's not the case here or for many GLs on the road. Kombi - sorry you've had such bad luck with your GL. For a 2010 vehicle with less than 100K, I think you've been unlucky. I've owned my '07 GL450 since new and I can say that at 182K miles, it runs and drives as good as new. I can steer it at 85mph on a Texas toll road with one finger. It's got plenty of get up and go and the 4matic suspension and air ride is still awesome. To replace this type of performance, quality and ride will cost $85K+ new to replicate. It's disheartening the above posts have scared off the OP to get rid of the GL and opt for a new one. I hope they reconsider and keep their GL.
Kybrigs asked another question and he has a diesel. Which is a completely different story.
I've mentioned my most relevant issues and how for the most part they are simple to fix.
There is a much bigger list too....
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you Kombifan for your insights. My dealer just also told me at 80k miles my steering pump, suspension air pump, and pinion need to be replaced sine they are leaking. I was just there 3k miles earlier when it was in extended warranty and they didn't say anything. Now I am out of warranty and costs $4k+ to replace all. Are these normal items that would fail?
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thank you Kombifan for your insights. My dealer just also told me at 80k miles my steering pump, suspension air pump, and pinion need to be replaced sine they are leaking. I was just there 3k miles earlier when it was in extended warranty and they didn't say anything. Now I am out of warranty and costs $4k+ to replace all. Are these normal items that would fail?
If it's with mercedes make a case that it was probably there then and ask them to cover it because they missed it b
Otherwise. The air compressor pump does fail if you have had airmatic struts and issues. It's over heats and wears out.
The earlier 07-09 models did have common issues with the steering racks. They were mostly fixed by 10-12, so it's kinda suspect that they're saying it is leaking. If the warranty doesn't cover it...or anything, have all issues te checked by an indy.
The power steering pump does fail, although I think you would notice it's symptoms before hand. Like at low speeds it might hiccup and stop working for a second. Or you have accelerated belt wear. It shouldn't be failing for you...but it is possible.
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evan8 (06-09-2019)
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you Kombifan and BlownV8! I bought my warranty with the dealer but it can be used at any dealer. MB USA ended up covering the cost of the pinion ~$1200 and I covered the rest. It is too bad for the timing they failed but I guess better to replace them before they fail while driving. .
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hi Kombifan and BlownV8, another 3 questions seek your advise please.
1. Since my front left strut was replaced 2 years ago and both rears replaced last December and new suspension air pump, the drive is very smooth, almost like new. This was around 75k miles. Would I expect no more suspension issue for another 75k or it doesn't work like that?
2. After the suspension air pump was replaced, I noticed when going over small bumps almost always the right front suspension would make a clunking noise. Work was done at dealer with OEM part and mechanic told me that noise is normal coming from that strut and not other 3 struts. Do you have any suggestions?
3. I've noticed on yourmechanic search by 2012 GL450 showed that average maintenance cost is $1100. From owning the CPO 2012 GL450 last 5 years, this means just alignment and scheduled maintenance. Adding tires (every 1.5 years) and now the cost to fix the pinion, steering pump, would you think it is reasonable to expect another $3k per year repair cost? Total I guess would be no more than $4500 per year? All dealer work. The manifold you mentioned I saw is about $500 dealer price; I could be wrong.
Thank you so much!
1. Since my front left strut was replaced 2 years ago and both rears replaced last December and new suspension air pump, the drive is very smooth, almost like new. This was around 75k miles. Would I expect no more suspension issue for another 75k or it doesn't work like that?
2. After the suspension air pump was replaced, I noticed when going over small bumps almost always the right front suspension would make a clunking noise. Work was done at dealer with OEM part and mechanic told me that noise is normal coming from that strut and not other 3 struts. Do you have any suggestions?
3. I've noticed on yourmechanic search by 2012 GL450 showed that average maintenance cost is $1100. From owning the CPO 2012 GL450 last 5 years, this means just alignment and scheduled maintenance. Adding tires (every 1.5 years) and now the cost to fix the pinion, steering pump, would you think it is reasonable to expect another $3k per year repair cost? Total I guess would be no more than $4500 per year? All dealer work. The manifold you mentioned I saw is about $500 dealer price; I could be wrong.
Thank you so much!
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hi Kombifan and BlownV8, another 3 questions seek your advise please.
1. Since my front left strut was replaced 2 years ago and both rears replaced last December and new suspension air pump, the drive is very smooth, almost like new. This was around 75k miles. Would I expect no more suspension issue for another 75k or it doesn't work like that?
2. After the suspension air pump was replaced, I noticed when going over small bumps almost always the right front suspension would make a clunking noise. Work was done at dealer with OEM part and mechanic told me that noise is normal coming from that strut and not other 3 struts. Do you have any suggestions?
3. I've noticed on yourmechanic search by 2012 GL450 showed that average maintenance cost is $1100. From owning the CPO 2012 GL450 last 5 years, this means just alignment and scheduled maintenance. Adding tires (every 1.5 years) and now the cost to fix the pinion, steering pump, would you think it is reasonable to expect another $3k per year repair cost? Total I guess would be no more than $4500 per year? All dealer work. The manifold you mentioned I saw is about $500 dealer price; I could be wrong.
Thank you so much!
1. Since my front left strut was replaced 2 years ago and both rears replaced last December and new suspension air pump, the drive is very smooth, almost like new. This was around 75k miles. Would I expect no more suspension issue for another 75k or it doesn't work like that?
2. After the suspension air pump was replaced, I noticed when going over small bumps almost always the right front suspension would make a clunking noise. Work was done at dealer with OEM part and mechanic told me that noise is normal coming from that strut and not other 3 struts. Do you have any suggestions?
3. I've noticed on yourmechanic search by 2012 GL450 showed that average maintenance cost is $1100. From owning the CPO 2012 GL450 last 5 years, this means just alignment and scheduled maintenance. Adding tires (every 1.5 years) and now the cost to fix the pinion, steering pump, would you think it is reasonable to expect another $3k per year repair cost? Total I guess would be no more than $4500 per year? All dealer work. The manifold you mentioned I saw is about $500 dealer price; I could be wrong.
Thank you so much!
2. Clunking can mean a lot to different people. Like when I go over bumps theres definitely a groan but no Clunking. Some might say that is clunking. When i had Clunking it was the sway bar end links that needed replacing...and they do wear out and you can feel it. Front and rear, 24$ for the oe lemforder part.
3. I hope that ive hit a plateau. I hope and suspect that everything that needed replacing has already been replaced, so I expect it to be good from now on. Once you hit a point where you've done everything it's just regular maintenance I guess. I assume at some point the trans conductor plate will go...but someone on here figured out a cheaper fix to fix just the board..regular flush and oil changes are key to differentials and trans.
If yiu haven't changed the jntake manifold then thag will come too. Apparently there are metal aftermaket parts, which the dealer won't touch 😕
Maybe your pulleys... I'm guessing if you budget 1000 per year yiu should be fine. Some years my maintenance has been just the oil. Oil is cheap at fcp euro and they give you yiur money back too if you send it back. They also cover all their parts for life. The oil change is super easy with an extractor too. Filters are way too easy to let it get done. Cabin and air filters I change every year. Why not with the fcp euro warranty. (not including covered repairs) once it does go out of warranty perhaps diy the failurr? It's what I plan on doing.....can't really "afford" the dealership prices out of warranty. 1 bill was 5k plus. 😢😭
Last edited by kombifan; 06-12-2019 at 05:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
evan8 (06-12-2019)
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hi Kombifan and BlownV8, another 3 questions seek your advise please.
1. Since my front left strut was replaced 2 years ago and both rears replaced last December and new suspension air pump, the drive is very smooth, almost like new. This was around 75k miles. Would I expect no more suspension issue for another 75k or it doesn't work like that?
2. After the suspension air pump was replaced, I noticed when going over small bumps almost always the right front suspension would make a clunking noise. Work was done at dealer with OEM part and mechanic told me that noise is normal coming from that strut and not other 3 struts. Do you have any suggestions?
3. I've noticed on yourmechanic search by 2012 GL450 showed that average maintenance cost is $1100. From owning the CPO 2012 GL450 last 5 years, this means just alignment and scheduled maintenance. Adding tires (every 1.5 years) and now the cost to fix the pinion, steering pump, would you think it is reasonable to expect another $3k per year repair cost? Total I guess would be no more than $4500 per year? All dealer work. The manifold you mentioned I saw is about $500 dealer price; I could be wrong.
Thank you so much!
1. Since my front left strut was replaced 2 years ago and both rears replaced last December and new suspension air pump, the drive is very smooth, almost like new. This was around 75k miles. Would I expect no more suspension issue for another 75k or it doesn't work like that?
2. After the suspension air pump was replaced, I noticed when going over small bumps almost always the right front suspension would make a clunking noise. Work was done at dealer with OEM part and mechanic told me that noise is normal coming from that strut and not other 3 struts. Do you have any suggestions?
3. I've noticed on yourmechanic search by 2012 GL450 showed that average maintenance cost is $1100. From owning the CPO 2012 GL450 last 5 years, this means just alignment and scheduled maintenance. Adding tires (every 1.5 years) and now the cost to fix the pinion, steering pump, would you think it is reasonable to expect another $3k per year repair cost? Total I guess would be no more than $4500 per year? All dealer work. The manifold you mentioned I saw is about $500 dealer price; I could be wrong.
Thank you so much!
If you drive it like it likes it. Yiu wear it out quicker.
If you drive like a chauffeur. Maybe not so.
I like the ebc sport rotors paired with akebono pads. No brake dust and the dimpled black anodised rotors look 👌🏽.
It's diy able too.
I run 19" rims with winters in season so I don't notice the wear as much. Tire rack helps too when I have nails with their Road hazard warranty.
I like the pirelli scorpion verde plus. 60k mileage warranty but I'll see how much actual life j get.
Winters are michelin pilot alpin pa5 suv with 20k (maybe 30) mileage warranty.
So my tire cost is a bit higher.
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evan8 (06-12-2019)