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2004 E55 with 160K miles, 77m pulley + cooling mods, RaceIQ TCU tune.
Symptoms: During normal driving, car locked itself in 2nd gear and threw CEL.
P200A: Component N15/3 (ETC [EGS] control unit) is defective. (always present after TCU tune; no VIN listed)
P220A: The speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 is implausible
P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short
I cleared the codes, car returned to normal, problem returned; rinse/repeat
With 160K miles, and nothing in the VMI stating the transmission was ever touched, I decided to do the CP. I also bought blue-top solenoids figuring "while I'm in there". 20K miles since last trans service, fluid came out in dark pink/light brown hue, not burnt, no smell. After dropping the valve body, I noticed it already had blue-tops. Pulled and checked the part numbers; they were the originals. Checked the CP date code; 2003. This had to be the issue. replaced solenoids, torqued everything on the VB to 8nm, put back in car with new pilot bushing (thanks FCP) and added 4 quarts. Took it for a drive to warm it up so I could top off fluid as needed. Almost immediately when I left a stop sign, the trans started slipping, allowing the car to rev up to about 3K and then grab and go. Normal driving didn't produce this, only when I got on it...maybe 40% throttle. Then the car went right back into limp mode. I cleared it, drove it back home, checked the fluid with the trans at 90C and it was spot on. Went back through historic code and found the same codes stored. Went out for another drive and this time got on it here and there, and the trans really slipped badly. Feels like the converter is just not doing it's job I also got a new code after the slipping: P2561 gear is implausible (2)
Although I'm not a mechanic, I am an Engineer, and I'm very diligent with anything I work on. I have tools, Xentry, Youtube (lol) and I've done a lot of reading on this. All signs pointed to the CP, but that didn't fix the issue. And I'm guessing my giving the car the beans just caused that extra code that I otherwise wouldn't have seen. I have not pulled the VB back out yet, but I have confirmed the conductor plate electrical connection and harness is fluid free, and the TCU is too. No fluid has wicked into the TCU. Anyone have a clue as to what could've happened? I didn't replace any of the solenoid O-rings, just popped them back in. Nor did I split the valve body for cleaning, though it looked like it could use it. There was some pretty dirty fluid pooling and draining out of the VB after all that handling. The magnet was coated in a sludgy graphite looking shmoo, but no metal shaving or visible pieces of transmission innards. Looking for suggestions, or questions to help me sort this out. Appreciate you reading this.
Did you reset adaptations after replacing the conductor plate? This is mandatory after this service. Preferably with a computer like STAR/Xentry or Autel etc. If you dont have a computer, then try this.
So you removed the valve body and probable left it off for a bit. Was the issue there before you did this?? Or the issue came after?? At no point have you mentioned checking the transmission fluid level with special tool. Have you checked fluid level???
When I removed my Tranny and “Cleaned” my Valve Body that rests below the TCU in my 2007 W211 E63, I only wish I had also removed the TCU to have it preventatively repaired! I say this because after replacing all my Rear Subframe Bushings as well as all the other bushings in the Arms and Subframe Structure itself, Rebuilt AirSprings and New Shocks, Toe Arms, Torque Arms, Hubs, DS Discs, Rotors, Brakes, it was only a week later when the “Speed Sensors” in the TCU caused me to be stranded on the side of the road! The symptoms leading up to this were different, in that, when I used the Paddles to shift, sometimes it would just remain in the gear I was in. I would have to find a place to pull over and restart and only then, would I be able to continue, yeah, a real PITA! Fortunately “Circuit Board Medics” fit the bill and had the TCU back to me within a week! Problem solved and its now running oh so well, that os, before I started my 3rd phase Stereo/Sound Treatment/Evaporator Replacement Build!
In addition, you might want to check the detailed write-up I Posted “Valve Body Clean” IIRC, in the “Tech” section for W211. That black Carbon stuff coating your magnets in the Tranny Oil Tray could also very well be clogging up both some Valves as well as any of those “Marbles” that are in their respective locations if you were to “Split” the Valve body apart to “Clean” it. TCU/CP mounted on top of the Valve Body. One can see the Shift Solenoids in line right and left. The “Speed Sensors” are those two round black magnets in the middle just below the white circular “thingy”. Top Center is the Magnet which determines if your in “Park”. Lower Left is the Top Side of the “Electrical Connection” which is to protrude out below from Passenger Side Front of the Tranny through the Pan. In the Lower Center there appears an empty Circle to the right of the White Rectangular Shaped thing with curved corners. In that empty circle is where you would have to line it up to the “Plug” that one would properly opt to first insert into the location which would reside directly above it in the Transmission Housing. It is that “Plug” which “switches” (Comfort, Sport & Manual Mode). For the life of me, when I chose to install that plug into the Valve Body first, and then try to Mount that VB to the Tranny, I couldn’t get it to seat at all as it being attached to the VB blocked it from being able to clear. However, when I stuck into the Transmission Housing first, I was able to. Of course, from below, you have to trust its remaining in position as you do this because you otherwise simply cannot see! My E63 up on Stands withe the Tranny strapped to its lift as well as the Torque Converter in foreground. Torque Converter Pic of Trans Bell Housing.
@nd-photo.nl Funny how if you google that question, you get answers that say you don't have to, and you do have to. Well, I confirmed in documentation AR27.19-P-0200A that indeed you do need to reset adaptations, and I did through my Xentry laptop. It didn't make a difference.
@MBENZTECH Had the VB out of the car for about 90 minutes. The issue was the car going into Emergency mode (locked itself in 2nd gear).
Before replacement:
P220A: The speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 is implausible
P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short
After replacement:
P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short
P2560 and P2561 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. (1. gear) and (2. gear) respectively. This depended on if I forced the slip in 1st gear, or 2nd gear. I'm sure if I was in 3rd and goosed it, I would've probably gotten P2562, and so on.
And I did check my trans fluid, I wrote in my original post, "checked the fluid with the trans at 90C and it was spot on." I used my FCP trans dipstick and checked it with the car running, The fluid level is sitting in-between the pair of 80degree Celsius lines, at the top line.
Last edited by Pauliefein; 04-15-2024 at 06:15 PM.
@E63007 I think you're onto something with that "black carbon stuff" you mentioned. Perhaps since I flipped the VB in all directions while it was on my bench, I dislodged a bit of fine settlement, much like the black stuff that coats the magnet, and clogged up a screen, or a valve, or some other moving part. Maybe I just need to drop the VB again, disassemble and thoroughly clean it. Replace all the solenoid O-rings, and perhaps the TC lock-up Solenoid. I don't know, there's probably more troubleshooting I can do through Xentry. I saw something in there about Locking out, or locking up the TC but my laptop battery died before I could explore it. I need to dedicate more time to this. endeavor.
I just did that last weekend. Swapped the lockup solenoid, the O-rings of the other solenoids, the 2 filters and 2 strainers. It has made a huge difference in my case. The O-rings didnt seal properly anymore and 1 of the strainers seemed like it has seen better days.
This is the way! Yeah, this is my plan too. I found a kit that I think I'm going to get because after checking the WIS, it looks like the O-rings are unavailable, just the filters/screens. https://cobratransmission.com/722.6-valve-body-sub-kit
The solenoid I'll buy OEM for sure. It only around $70 USD. But damn, the fluid is so expensive.
I needed about 5.9 liter after this service. I used LiquiMoly ATF 1800 just like last time. The tasked looked more daunting than it actually was. Take your time and torque all the bolts of the valve body twice. If you want to be really thorough, then also buy a shift kit. I bought the O-rings from eBay, the shift solenoid, 2x filters and 2x strainers are also original MB.
FCP has a good video on how to service the tranny, including blowing out the old oil with compressed air. We did this service recently on our car we just bought. Previous owner said he did the service, but when I checked the fluid it was black as black. Already had the blue top solenoids, so that was a plus. Soaked the solenoids in fresh fluid prior to reinstallation. Car shifts so much better now. Like night and day. The kit from FCP comes with the exact amount of fluid required.
Original problem:
I replaced my conductor plate because the car was going into limp mode and remaining in 2nd gear.
Round one:
Replaced conductor plate, fresh fluid and filter, reset adaptations, and not only did the problem return, but the trans was now sipping in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear (never made it to 4th or 5th to test)
Round two:
Suspecting contaminated fluid, I drained and dropped the pan and inspected; copper/brass colored sparkles in the fluid. I figured this was pointless, but I had to try anyways. I dropped the valve body, except this time I split the two halves, removed all the valves, filters, check valve, ball bearings, and ran it through the ultrasonic. I replaced the two small cup filters in the VB (one of them was completely clogged) replaced all the O-rings on the shift solenoids, replaced the two filters under the blue-tops, replaced the torque converter solenoid, cleaned the solenoids using a 9V battery while spraying MAF cleaner at them, and installed another new conductor plate. Reassembled everything with a fresh filter and added 4L of Shell 134. Next I disconnected the transmission line from the top right of the trans, and connected it to a hose and started the car to pump out a few liters of fluid. I did this 3 times, adding what I removed each time, until the fluid coming out was as clean as what I was putting in. I went through about 13L of fluid doing this flush. In the end, I could barely reverse the car off my ramps as my reverse gear did practically nothing. Long delays in changing from R to D as well. Got trans to operating temp (80C) and verified fluid level was full. (At top of lines on dipstick).
Round three:
Immediately dropped the pan again; more sparkles and 3 little black chunks. We're done
If you “replaced the Conductor Plate” with a “New” one, then I believe you would need to have it SCN Certified by an “official” DAS/Xentry. Moreover, before doing so, such Conductor plate I believe would have needed to be “Saved” by such a DAS/Xentry in order to be reprogrammed to the vehicle. This may be a cause to your problem!
When I cleaned my Valve Body, after having sent my original OEM Conductor Plate out to have the Speed Sensors be replaced by “Circuit Board Medics”, I simply reinstalled the CP without needing the above mentioned programming.
As per your pictures, I didn’t realize those SS basket “filter”s were even there! If so, where were they located? I also saw that you removed each of the Solenoid screen filters, all I did was soak them in clean Tranny Fluid before using some MAF Cleaner for the screens followed by more soaking. Some were a little soiled while others seemed fairly clean. All I can say is that shifts were a bit more crisp than before.
What you're referring to only applies to the 722.9 7-speed transmission because the TCU is mounted directly on the conductor plate. The 722.6 conductor plate does not have the TCU onboard so no SCN programming is required. I believe you're looking at nd-photo.nl's pictures of his valve body. I didn't post any pictures in this thread.
It sounds like you've thoroughly investigated and addressed potential causes, particularly with the conductor plate replacement and inspection of solenoids and fluid levels. Given the persisting slipping issue and the new P2561 code indicating implausible gear, it's possible that there could be an issue with the torque converter or possibly a deeper transmission problem. Since you're diligent and have access to resources like Xentry and technical knowledge, it might be worthwhile to perform further diagnostics, such as pressure tests, to pinpoint the exact cause of the slipping and implausible gear issue. Additionally, checking for any potential vacuum leaks or issues with the transmission control module could also provide valuable insights into resolving the problem. If needed, seeking assistance from a specialized transmission shop or a Mercedes-Benz dealership might offer further expertise in diagnosing and resolving the issue. And if you are facing problems in writing your essay assignment then you don't have to worry about it anymore. I have found the https://academized.com/buy-literature-review website link where you can easily find professional essay writers who will help you with your essay assignments. I am also using that website to get some help regarding my essay assignments and they never brokemy trust.
Last edited by CharlesRogers; 05-20-2024 at 02:32 AM.
04-13-2024, 07:20 PM
