novic350

2013 c350 4matic (Canada), 75,000 kms

2 weeks after having the rear subframe replaced under warranty by the dealer, the car was at a local indy shop for an oil change. Once complete, they could not start the car. No dash lights. The next morning, the shop owner tried again - wiggled the steering wheel and managed to get it going. He left it running, afraid to shut it off, and said to take it to the dealer, it was a steering lock problem. I took the car home, shut it off. Wouldn't restart. tried different key and jiggled it in the ignition - it started, and has ever since. I found a video showing an EIS switch being repaired - connector being re-soldered to the circuit board. Found other videos showing how to take the EIS out. My question is: what other types of failures do EIS suffer from? I can fix the loose connector, if its the issue - it would save me a large $ bill from the dealer, but am unsure of other types of failures that would require replacement. I just want the car to be reliable.

Thanks.

cvx5832

Sounds more like ESL instead of the EIS, to be honest. Especially since it comes to life when you jiggle it.

novic350

Additional info -

car currently works with both keys. Have noticed over past months that the replace key battery warning appears with regularity, evening when the key batteries are new and supplying proper voltage. The steering lock engages and and disengages strongly and quick , not displaying any weakness.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Do you use push button start/stop (Keyless Go) or insert the key? Where do you store your keys? There are a few posts about key batteries, etc.

novic350

I used the key to get it started again, then switched back to the keyless go button.
Keys are stored in a shielded pouch.

Moto_Guzzi

On my car I noticed the "whirr shound |" when key was inserted was not there.I visited a store, no problem, on leaving No Start, dead.
-Flatbed under gurantee.....What a dissappointment on a new car, no car has ever done this to me..Thankyou EU, not Germany(Outsource kings).

Strange enough car failed 2 weeks after a service at this dealer, maybe it was started not more than 5 times during that 2 weeks.......
The well known dealership was inexperienced with this at that stage:
1-They replaced the EIS(Expensive)...Not the problem.
2-They replaced the ESL(Cheap), that solved the problem, I received copy of account(Guranteed).
3-Apparently the ESL is a micky-mouse motor that was outsourced. Where I live I can get murdered if the car did not want to start, say after a puncture next to the road, so for me its a safety issue with no warnings as well. Their complicated 7 G Tronic gearbox(Germany) is more reliable than this part(EU inspired), unbelieveable.
4-I waited 3 weeks for the car to be fixed, and must have proved identy and purchage of the car to them before a person from head office could program the keys again(Security), and I bought the car from this dealer, no joke.
So make sure you not paying to much in vain.

CaliBenzDriver

reading this thread, I see you're up in Canada.
The quickest way to bypass this battery drain is to buy/use a float charger.

There's a collection of solderless CAN-B modules on your chassis that are making it unreliable. You're not alone!

Use a good scanner to help yourself or get this to your local MB specialist.

gamma300C

Google "ESL Emulator C300" (same as C350) Moto Guzzi, for cure to never be stranded as far as being due to a failed ESL.

NZ-Merc

My W204 ESL failed at 155,000km, for a repair I removed the ESL which failed in the unlocked position and stripped and installed a China made motor inside the ESL and it worked fine for 12 months and failed again.
I have recently brought an ESL Emulater from China, I sent all parts for programming along with my keys, the old ESL, emulator and the EIS.
Installing these parts back in to the Mercedes was all good.