Airmatics nightmare
#1
Airmatics nightmare
Guys my s550 showed an airmatic malfunction the other day and I realized that the compressor wasn't coming on at all. I bought a new compressor and it didn't come on at all after install. Guys I really need help. If I don't fix this thing soon I'm in trouble cause I'm going through a divorce and have no other means of transportation. Can anyone please give me some guidance on what to do?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,551
Likes: 942
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Guys my s550 showed an airmatic malfunction the other day and I realized that the compressor wasn't coming on at all. I bought a new compressor and it didn't come on at all after install. Guys I really need help. If I don't fix this thing soon I'm in trouble cause I'm going through a divorce and have no other means of transportation. Can anyone please give me some guidance on what to do?
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,551
Likes: 942
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
#7
we had a post this year explaining the UTTER insanity of the system
when diagnostics says compressor locked - the car must see the level sensors wiggle (as if the car is driven) before it will unlock the air pump and get it drivable again (AKA deliberate breakdown function)
when diagnostics says compressor locked - the car must see the level sensors wiggle (as if the car is driven) before it will unlock the air pump and get it drivable again (AKA deliberate breakdown function)
Trending Topics
#8
It sounds like you're dealing with a frustrating issue, especially given the timing. If the new compressor isn't kicking in, the problem might not be with the compressor itself but rather with the electrical system that powers it. Common causes for this include a blown fuse or a faulty relay in the airmatic system, which can prevent the compressor from receiving power. Additionally, the airmatic control module might not be sending the correct signals due to a malfunction or a software issue. It's also worth checking the wiring harness for any damage or loose connections that could disrupt the power flow to the compressor. To get a clearer picture, I recommend checking for fault codes in the Airmatic Control Unit and the Body Control Module (BCM). These modules can provide insight into any electrical or communication issues affecting the airmatic system. A full system scanner like the youcanic is ideal for this task, as it can access all relevant systems and provide a comprehensive diagnostic report. If you're using a basic OBD2 scanner like the Launch CReader 3001, it might not capture the specific codes related to the suspension system. Have you already checked the fuses and relays associated with the airmatic system to ensure they're intact and functioning?
#9
Yes it's weird I disconnected the battery and reconnected it and it worked for about an hour and then thr malfunction came back. Here's another funny part, the heat and ac in the cab is not working either. They come on but no air is blowing out
#10
we had a post this year explaining the UTTER insanity of the system
when diagnostics says compressor locked - the car must see the level sensors wiggle (as if the car is driven) before it will unlock the air pump and get it drivable again (AKA deliberate breakdown function)
when diagnostics says compressor locked - the car must see the level sensors wiggle (as if the car is driven) before it will unlock the air pump and get it drivable again (AKA deliberate breakdown function)
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post8984897
#12
do you have any high end diagnostic equipment ?
have you verified all three level sensors operate nicely ? (One each at the front, and a single one hiding above the park brake module at the rear)
these sensors are usually a few drives from snapping clean off - otherwise the system is quite reliable - till a link rod to the level sensor between the strut and the body seizes on its ball joints - then the whole car goes strange as the flexible mounts start to snap off one by one its attachment links - as they break the readings become increasingly silly and the pump works harder - often as the car goes funny, most owners go find an animal that re-calibrates the car all wrong - then they snap clean off - and the owner buys new struts and the car is lop-sided and they pretend the new parts are faulty
have you verified all three level sensors operate nicely ? (One each at the front, and a single one hiding above the park brake module at the rear)
these sensors are usually a few drives from snapping clean off - otherwise the system is quite reliable - till a link rod to the level sensor between the strut and the body seizes on its ball joints - then the whole car goes strange as the flexible mounts start to snap off one by one its attachment links - as they break the readings become increasingly silly and the pump works harder - often as the car goes funny, most owners go find an animal that re-calibrates the car all wrong - then they snap clean off - and the owner buys new struts and the car is lop-sided and they pretend the new parts are faulty
The following users liked this post:
SMF (Today)
#13
Got these codes today My guy that used to work at mercedes said its the 5140 dampening valve code. Can anyone tell me where that valve is or do i need to replace the whole strut? If i do, i am going 4 wheel coil overs. Screw it