questions about some C190 platform accessories



1) Pre-Safe system: never had this before, okay the saying goes safety first, how does it work exactly?
2) Std sound system vs "high-end" one: other than price (!), is there a significant difference in terms of music reproduction and/or power? I don't need stunning SPL, probably the std system is already good for an "average listener"?
3) Factory battery charger with dedicatd socket (or terminals) under the hood: if this option is missing, the only ways to recharge the battery is trough the battery terminals or the 12 V cigarette lighetr n the cabin, right?
4) Touch-pad vs std rotary wheel: does the touch-pad offer additional functions and/or make so much easier naviagting into the menus? (considering that I come coming from a car that has it, probably I would miss it?)
5) how much difficult is retrofitting a GTR -or aftermarket- fixed wing (the AMG Aero pack seems to be very rare indeed) ? once installed, I guess the movable wing system needs to be deactivated so that it won't generate DCT's, this can be done easily?
thanks!
1) Pre-Safe system: never had this before, okay the saying goes safety first, how does it work exactly?
2) Std sound system vs "high-end" one: other than price (!), is there a significant difference in terms of music reproduction and/or power? I don't need stunning SPL, probably the std system is already good for an "average listener"?
3) Factory battery charger with dedicatd socket (or terminals) under the hood: if this option is missing, the only ways to recharge the battery is trough the battery terminals or the 12 V cigarette lighetr n the cabin, right?
4) Touch-pad vs std rotary wheel: does the touch-pad offer additional functions and/or make so much easier naviagting into the menus? (considering that I come coming from a car that has it, probably I would miss it?)
5) how much difficult is retrofitting a GTR -or aftermarket- fixed wing (the AMG Aero pack seems to be very rare indeed) ? once installed, I guess the movable wing system needs to be deactivated so that it won't generate DCT's, this can be done easily?
thanks!
- PRE-SAFE works very well—sometimes too well. When racing, if you get too close to the car in front, your seatbelt may tighten. It’s not a big issue; you either get used to it or maintain a safer distance.
- Listen to the engine—it’s far more enjoyable than music! Given the cabin noise and small interior volume, the standard audio system is sufficient.
- Battery Maintenance: Use the original MB part number A000-982-29-21 to charge and maintain the lithium battery via the rear trunk 12V plug. There are alternative chargers from other brands if you're looking to save some cost.
- Rotary vs. Touchpad: I have the rotary controller on my S550 and a touchpad on my GTC (previously had a rotary on my GTR). While the touchpad looks "cooler," the rotary is much more practical—especially at high speeds—since you can use it without taking your eyes off the road. My preference was rotary, but it wasn’t available when I got my 2020 GTC.
- Rear Wing Info: Check this link for details: MBWorld Thread. You'll need the plug-in delete to eliminate the error code and the 125MPH speed limit.



- you mean the Pre-Safe is therefore not deactivatable?
- ok for listening to the engine sound

- regarding the genune charger, maybe I misunderstood...in the accessories brochure for the 190 platform, it seemed that when buying this option, in addition to the charger itself also a pair of dedicated terminals (+ and -) were available in bonnet ..- now I understand that the option consists in just the charger itself..
-additional question: I see on the Mercedes site that there are several different on line packages (connect, remote, navigation,360 guard), which is really worth? do they all work on the C190 series?
thanks again
- you mean the Pre-Safe is therefore not deactivatable?
- ok for listening to the engine sound

- regarding the genune charger, maybe I misunderstood...in the accessories brochure for the 190 platform, it seemed that when buying this option, in addition to the charger itself also a pair of dedicated terminals (+ and -) were available in bonnet ..- now I understand that the option consists in just the charger itself..
-additional question: I see on the Mercedes site that there are several different on line packages (connect, remote, navigation,360 guard), which is really worth? do they all work on the C190 series?
thanks again
you are right about the additional clamps that comes with the OEM charger. These are for use with direct connection to the charging terminals under the hood (NOT directly on the battery). You should have gotten these with the charger.
the On-line partially works on the 190. There are some limitation. Since I have decided not to use any of these, I cannot recall what work and what not. Maybe someone else can chime on it here.
Last edited by G. P; Mar 27, 2025 at 05:14 PM.



about the terminals for the recharing, should have been a stock equipment as ithey are n many other cars, it's a shame that you must pay for having them on a nearly 200k $ car...




Once I gained confidence, I turned off as much as I could. Push and hold the traction control off button (ESP) to defeat it as much as possible. Now, on track I can close gaps as much as I want (sometimes too much), but Pre-Safe is OFF. See pages 60-61 of the owners manual (2018 version). The manual is too big to post as a pdf here. Per the manual ...
If ESP® is deactivated and one or more wheels start to spin, the÷ESP® warning lamp in the instrument cluster flashes. In such situations, ESP® will not stabilize the vehicle. If you deactivate ESP®:
- RESP® no longer improves driving stability.
- REngine torque is no longer limited and the drive wheels are able to spin.
- The spinning of the wheels results in a cut for better traction on loose surfaces.
- RTraction control is still activated. RAdaptive Brake Assist is unavailable.
- Active Brake Assist is also not activated if you brake firmly with assistance from ESP®.
- RPRE-SAFE® is unavailable.
- PRE-SAFE® is also not activated if you brake firmly with assistance from ESP®.
- RESP® still provides support when you brake firmly.
Once I gained confidence, I turned off as much as I could. Push and hold the traction control off button (ESP) to defeat it as much as possible. Now, on track I can close gaps as much as I want (sometimes too much), but Pre-Safe is OFF. See pages 60-61 of the owners manual (2018 version). The manual is too big to post as a pdf here. Per the manual ...
If ESP® is deactivated and one or more wheels start to spin, the÷ESP® warning lamp in the instrument cluster flashes. In such situations, ESP® will not stabilize the vehicle. If you deactivate ESP®:
- RESP® no longer improves driving stability.
- REngine torque is no longer limited and the drive wheels are able to spin.
- The spinning of the wheels results in a cut for better traction on loose surfaces.
- RTraction control is still activated. RAdaptive Brake Assist is unavailable.
- Active Brake Assist is also not activated if you brake firmly with assistance from ESP®.
- RPRE-SAFE® is unavailable.
- PRE-SAFE® is also not activated if you brake firmly with assistance from ESP®.
- RESP® still provides support when you brake firmly.
I scanned my 2020 GT Line manual but couldn’t find any reference to the ability to turn off Pre-SAFE.. I guess they might turn this option off?
I do agree that you can reduce the sensitivity when in Race mode and ESP off, but I cannot turn the seatbelt movement completely off.
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Otherwise, take a big breath before hard braking into a corner with someone in front.
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Otherwise, take a big breath before hard braking into a corner with someone in front.
it seems to be a change for the 2019 FL and on models.
Here are some past discussions about it:
https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...track-gts.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...track-gtr.html
Last edited by G. P; Mar 28, 2025 at 05:24 AM.



I take advantage of your knowledge of GTC/GTR models to ask you one more question about the CCB...how do you rate them for 90% street (spirited) use, with occasional laps on track?
performance-wise, are they overall far superior to the traditional steel ones? (I know, they are lighter and being unsprung mass this is already a benefit, but what about daily usage?)
on average, how long does a pair of front pads last? what is the price for an OEM set? are there aftermarket, cheaper alternatives that provide similar performance to the OEM ones?
(asking this because I had them on my TT-RS and they disappointed me a bit... noisy at low-speed, pads lasting no more than 10/12k miles, and extremely expensive to replace...around 1000/1100$ par set, with basically no aftermarket alternatives... that's why I soon decide to swap with a Girodisc set, and end of the problems...)
Last edited by Kevin#34; Mar 28, 2025 at 06:21 AM.
I take advantage of your knowledge of GTC/GTR models to ask you one more question about the CCB...how do you rate them for 90% street (spirited) use, with occasional laps on track?
performance-wise, are they overall far superior to the traditional steel ones? (I know, they are lighter and being unsprung mass this is already a benefit, but what about daily usage?)
on average, how long does a pair of front pads last? what is the price for an OEM set? are there aftermarket, cheaper alternatives that provide similar performance to the OEM ones?
(asking this because I had them on my TT-RS and they disappointed me a bit... noisy at low-speed, pads lasting no more than 10/12k miles, and extremely expensive to replace...around 1000/1100$ par set, with basically no aftermarket alternatives... that's why I soon decide to swap with a Girodisc set, and end of the problems...)
I don’t have much personal experience with CCB. Since I track the car a few times a year, I prefer using track-performance iron rotors and performance pads to avoid the high cost of CCB ownership. (Girodisc Rotors with PAGID RSL 29 pads)
From what I’ve read from other members on this forum, CCB performs very well for street driving, with the biggest advantage being no brake dust—a common highlight in most discussions. Heavy track use will be an expensive experience - use Iron.
For your use case, either option should work. As a general rule, replace the pads when they wear down to 1/2 to 1/3 of their original thickness. This helps extend rotor life, allowing them to last through 2–3 pad replacements. And don’t forget to bed-in new pads properly to the existing rotors!
1) If you have a GT model with the 9-stage traction control, then engaging the 9-stage TC will stop the "facsimile race-harness" effect (i.e., sudden seat-belt tensioning).
2) There's growing evidence that carbon-ceramic (CCB) rotors may end up being less expensive for track-day use, especially when you consider the extra labor of replacing multiple sets of iron rotors for each set of CCB rotors. I also suspect that pad-wear is less with the CCBs, but don't have any actual data on that.
As I've posted multiple times, there isn't a substantial body of actual data regarding CCB wear with extensive track use. There are, however, various postings which suggest that CCB rotors may last for 40+ track days. I have the Carboteq measuring tool and have been keeping detailed records with my GTR Pro. If the wear/degradation measurements end up being linear (or a slowing wear trend) as track days progress, then my data is also trending that way.
It's also nicer to have the reduced un-sprung weight of the CCB rotors. OTOH, when you do need to replace the CCB rotors, it's a large cost "all at once," as opposed to a series of smaller costs. Sometimes cash-flow positions will favor a time-distributed series of smaller costs (less chance of getting "yelled at" by a partner). $;-))



anyway just today i went to see another used GTC (this one had steel discs), very nice and well maintained, with AMG aero pack and both interior and esterior black optic packsr.... well, i have to say that Mercedes' choice to leave the chrome door handles really doesn't make sense... i will definitely have to have them wrapped to match the body paint.....
other thing: but could be possible that the interior courtesy lights are halogen?? i'm not 100% sure because i saw it under full daylight, but the llight seemed too yellowish to be a led...
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anyway just today i went to see another used GTC (this one had steel discs), very nice and well maintained, with AMG aero pack and both interior and esterior black optic packsr.... well, i have to say that Mercedes' choice to leave the chrome door handles really doesn't make sense... i will definitely have to have them wrapped to match the body paint.....
other thing: but could be possible that the interior courtesy lights are halogen?? i'm not 100% sure because i saw it under full daylight, but the llight seemed too yellowish to be a led...
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
The current dome light bulb color is 2700K and uses Wedge 194 type connector:
OEM 2700K incandescent light bulb, Wedge 194 Connector. (not halogen)
You can replace it with any LED from 0.5 to 2.0 Watts bulb that uses Wedge connector (not flat surface connector). 1Watt and above will give you more light intensity than the OEM.
2700K - warm color (like OEM)
3000K warm/neutral
3500K Neutral
4000K cool
6000H Xenon cool
I replaced my OEM with same color 2700K but stronger, so the illumination is much better but still keeping the original "mood".
This type of flat 194 connector will NOT fit:
Last edited by G. P; Mar 30, 2025 at 12:19 PM.



regarding the door handle, does somebody painted or wrapped it? any hint on how to remove it from the door?
Last edited by Kevin#34; Mar 31, 2025 at 09:30 AM.






thanks
thanks





