Hey everyone,
I’m having an issue with my 2014 Mercedes E250 CDI (W212, OM651 engine, 7G-Tronic+ transmission) and wanted to get some opinions or advice.


Symptoms:

• When shifting from R → N/P, there’s a slight jerk.
• When shifting from D → N/P, there’s also a different kind of jerk, feels a bit more noticeable.
• The car drives and shifts fine otherwise.

Work done so far:

• Transmission oil and filter changed (using proper MB spec fluid).
• Transmission mountings replaced.

Details:

• Mileage: 92,000 km
• Transmission: 7G-Tronic+ (722.9)

I’m wondering what could be causing these jerks when selecting N or P.

 

You have an old MB transmission, that is the root cause. Normal behavior.

Fluid replacement is the only action that can be tried. Hopefully the conductor plate (mechatronic unit) is not too far gone with clutch plate wear particles.

 

You have a 92k.Km tranny newly serviced (ATF/Mount) that shifts in/out of park with a slight jolt and otherwise perfectly through all its gears.

Does this happen at normal running temperature or only while cold?
How is the engine idle Rpm control ??

 

Thanks for the reply!



The temperature doesn’t seem to make any difference, the jerk happens both when the car is cold and when it’s fully warmed up. Basically, any time I stop at a light or park and shift into N or P, I feel that small jerk.



Also, could you please explain what you meant by “engine idle RPM control”? I didn’t quite understand that part. RPM is normal though.

 

Direct your local MB specialist to read your engine RPM.
It should be low. Report actual value at operating temp.
Running A/C will raise engine Rpm and help create the mild jolt you report.
I doubt your engine mounts are bad already on 92k 4Cyl. Diesel

 

The engine mounts were actually replaced a few months ago with Febi ones, so they’re fairly new. Also, I’ve tried checking with the A/C both on and off, but it doesn’t make any difference

 

... at what engine idle rpm does this jolting take place?

 

Could the flex disc be the culprit?

 

nope, unlikely bad flex disc (5%) causing issue at idle rpm on 90kMi diesel W212.

 

I suspect it's most likely a mechanical issue. Does anyone have an idea which component could be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

sorry nobody was able to resolve your issue.... perhaps you can try to summarize everything that has been considered so far

 

I got your PM and best I ask more questions............

More history please :

FACTS. Car mileage 92,000KM was in Oct 2025 your first post. .I assumed you bought it as a used car , yes ?
01 . At what mileage did you get this car and at what mileage did you start to feel the jerking during tranny engagement from D or R to N/P ?
02. Before the tranny oil change, was the tranny jerking ?

03. Can you verify the tranny oil change was done properly, up to the torque converter being drained...how many liters total tranny oil ?
Can you verify the fill level of tranny oil was done properly ? This alone can cause jerking if tranny oil volume is not enough.

04. Do you know the tranny oil change history of this car since day 1 to the day she is yours ?
If since 2014 she never had tranny oil change, until in your ownership in Oct 2025........I can only feel sad for you, because 92,000KM and 11 years would already
ruin the tranny oil and mechanical wear and tear would be already high enough as such new oil will remove those debris and may actually cause jerking.
You wrote in blue :
Symptoms:

• When shifting from R → N/P, there’s a slight jerk.
• When shifting from D → N/P, there’s also a different kind of jerk, feels a bit more noticeable.
• The car drives and shifts fine otherwise.

The intensity of the jerk you felt different between R to N/P vs D to N/P is probably the gear ratio.
1st gear in D is 4.377 gear ratio as per Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merced...c_transmission
Reverse has two ratios, either 3.416 or 2.231 .
D 1st gear lower gear ratio multiplied the torque of the engine ( excluding DIFF gear ratio multiplication ) by 430%, compared to reverse which at highest is 340% only.
Thus you get more JERK aka POWER when shifting from D to N/P.

I am no expert or even decently good with how 722.9+ actually works, except from reading its technical manual.

My logic tells me, if your upshift and downshift is good without jerking, and if its not an issue internal to the tranny or external issue like the flex disc, the propeller shaft middle bearing is best
to be inspected . Note , 92.000KM is not likely this middle bearing item 130 to go bad, but you never know.




Also not likely at 92,000KM only, the cardan joint on the propeller shaft gone bad already.



------------


The other means of how power get transfered from tranny to drive line is the torque converter.
It has lock up clutch and can go bad. Can it god bad and cause your car similar symtomp ? Maybe

You can try torque converter adaptation, using Xentry at a proper workshop.


I would suggest you look for expert on 722.9 tranny to inspect your car.
There is only so much or so little we DIY dudes can help you with.

Good luck....

 

I actually have a very insightful reply to this, as I had a similar issue when I acquired my 2012 E350, that had 113K miles on it. It would also have a jolt when switching from park to D or P/N and vice versa. I started with a transmission service (even though it has been done less than 40k miles before I purchased it), also replaced engine and transmission mounts with new OEM parts. I checked my rear flex disk next, it was just a tiny bit cracked but not enough to cause this issue. I later decided to just go for it, pulled the exhaust off, all the shields and inspect the drive shaft, the center bearing and the front flex disk. While the flex disk was in good condition (probably done very recently as it looked new), the bearing was very worn and noisy. So I replaced the entire assembly with a new one and my issue is now gone. It’s buttery smooth. That being said, I would highly recommend also doing a rear differential service as well, as those can sometimes cause similar issues, if there is enough play in them and the differential is on its way out. But that’s only a suggestion and theory, I am not a mechanic, just a DIY guy, what do I know? Best of luck!

 

Your center bearing was bad allowing prop shaft freeplay.
Was the loose bearing making any noise at speed?

2x flex disks
1x center bearing
1x tranny mount

 

Was not getting any noise at speed really, at least not audible ones. But it did have a very slight vibration at higher speeds, over 50mph. Plus I’m also hypochondriac about my vehicles and do anything I possibly can at the same time just to have a peace of mind and a list of things that I know have been done, where and when.
but yes, after the center bearing replacement, the issues were gone and it shifts into D and R/N very smoothly with zero issues now.

 

thank you for sharing this.

I'm sort of prepping for 100kMi maintenance.
Better fix this before pinion bearings gets stressed out by missguided input shaft.

All of this courtesy of tranny mount + mileage. One item stresses out the next.
I did the 3x mounts at 50kMi, repeat at 100kMi.

 

Totally understand. The hate waiting till something fails, so I do everything early and as soon as finances allow it. What parts have you used for the mounts? I’ve heard some good things about some brands and some terrible things about others. I just did motor and transmission mounts on mine, used Lemforder. They were okay quality, but the OEM parts that were on the car, seemed better made. I’m definitely putting OEM Corteco parts next time. Also, I don’t know where most people get their parts from, but I Use FCPEuro, because of lifetime warranty on anything you buy as long as you own the car. So even when time comes to replace those? I just need to call them and get those replacements for free. Highly recommend. They’re not cheap, some of the same parts can be found elsewhere cheaper, but majority don’t come with lifetime warranty. Best of luck!

 

You are 100% right about parts supplies

It's not simple to source quality replacement parts.
Everything is undersized to provide limited lifespan.
Case in point: the tranny mount... LOL

At least FCP does not sale counterfeits as in the Amazon market place.


CORTECO engine mounts


LEMFORDER control arms

4x Brake pads: AKEBONO... JP grade!
New serpentine kit + Tstat.

Original Water pump still holding up 🤞

Lemforder stablinks are short lived like originals... MOOG design hopefully better.

 

I’ve had some really bad luck with Moog in recent years on many cars, I stay away from that brand unfortunately. I also just put the Lemforder for my sway bar links that were destroyed. They were still original MB parts lol
water pump I’ve heard has a revised version on W212 body that was produced after mid 2011 or so, and those hold really good. But I’m still replacing mine because I have no idea when or if it has ever been changed. Plus my radiator is seeping on both side corners, so might as well since I’m draining the system. Water pump, thermostat, transfer pipe, upper and lower hoses, all clamps and mounts, plus radiator and all seals and gaskets. Just waiting on the weather to break a bit, been storming for weeks on and off.
after that, need to do my front suspension as well, plus the transmission pan replacement. Whoever did the last fluid change, literally melted the drain plug into the pan. Had a 3 foot breaker bar and couldn’t get it off. So, new pan, drain the fluid from torque converter as well, filter and so on. Basically, after buying the car for around $5K, I’ve spend about that much on it, and about to put another 2K into it next month. It’s not technically worth it, as its value is lower than the total spent, but I’m very much happy with it. Easily the most serviceable and repairable car I’ve ever owned as a DIY fixer.

 

Yes, exactly. The most serviceable car if you keep ahead of maintenance.
My 2014 radiator has been like leaking like yours since very early on. I disabled the heatsoaks that caused this... this point to the coolant cap as being unable to relief mild over pressures.

Regarding your failed tranny pan:
There is an upgrade waiting for you...
An aluminum pan
with 2.5Qt more oil
built in cooling fins
2x separate ports:
One plug for draining 100% (besides TC)
One plug for refilling up to level
Neodymium magnets

You can service ATF easily every 20k to limit contaminants.
There's a collection of these pans between $400 to $800.

 

Had no idea this was a thing for these cars! I have to look into this upgraded pan now. Cancel the order on the original new pan lol Do you have any pointers where to get one of those?

i don’t like disabling things, so I fix them properly. I never understood people that buy an S-Class and immediately convert AirMatic to coilovers. Pisses me off. What is the point of buying the king of luxury sedans, and turning it into another long wheel base Chinese corolla? So I don’t do that kind of thing. I fix them to original quality or better only.

 

I don't know what brand aluminium pan works well. I only started looking into this recently.
I'm excited by easier drain & fill service ports...


To disable the extreme heat soak temperature at shutdown I managed to effectively remove accumulated pistons heat with non-stock setup aka. MOD-X.

My high pressure fuel rail stopped hissing and my garage doesn't get super-heated by parking my car.

That was the extreme pressure that busted my Valeo radiator at low mileage. Now my radiator fan only runs now and then instead of always :ON in Winter.

The ECU has mapping for Tstat opening and Fan threshold that are too high just like on BMW.
This is a factory setup to create high coolant pressures & related issues.