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Controversial topic- do transmission service or DON'T F'KING TOUCH IT
I have a 2013 G550 approaching 120k miles and was planning on doing the transmission service to officially complete the B3 service. But a good buddy of mine that is a car collector and a serious wrench is emphatic about not touching the transmission fluid. He said he's had many cars that had problems once transmission service was done. And these transmission services were done by pro mechanics. His transmissions that he didn't do the service, some are above 300k. So I'm kind of in a limbo and can't decide whether to do one or not. I did some research on the interwebs, and it seems in a nutshell, that if a transmission had its first service at ~40k, then you should continue doing service at regular intervals. But if it is having the first service at this mileage, it's better to not touch it. What are your thoughts? BTW, I think this line of thinking goes for all transmissions, not just Mercedes' transmissions.
I would do it - the additives in the fluid break down over time with high temps and don't protect the internals as well once that happens.
We all know a guy who knows a guy who recommends against this. I ignore those guys and always get my transmissions serviced at the recommended intervals.
I have a 2013 G550 approaching 120k miles and was planning on doing the transmission service to officially complete the B3 service. But a good buddy of mine that is a car collector and a serious wrench is emphatic about not touching the transmission fluid. He said he's had many cars that had problems once transmission service was done. And these transmission services were done by pro mechanics. His transmissions that he didn't do the service, some are above 300k. So I'm kind of in a limbo and can't decide whether to do one or not. I did some research on the interwebs, and it seems in a nutshell, that if a transmission had its first service at ~40k, then you should continue doing service at regular intervals. But if it is having the first service at this mileage, it's better to not touch it. What are your thoughts? BTW, I think this line of thinking goes for all transmissions, not just Mercedes' transmissions.
The modern ATF rely on "ultra-low viscosity" to save fuel within a narrow performance range.
Legacy ATF relied on viscosity that lasted substantially longer.
If you want guaranteed failure, ignore minimal maintenance.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Yesterday at 01:49 AM.
120,000 miles is not “old”. Change the fluid (drain and fill — NOT flush). Or not, just as long as your buddy agrees to replace your tranny when it goes bad.
Tranny does not have a fine grit filter like engine does... the tranny filtration is a strainer to stop chunkies.
100% of the friction material not deposited in the valve body keeps circulating.
Steel plate material gets caught by magnets
The last days may go like this...
As the old ATF gets heated, suitable viscosity is incresingly lower to the point TCU can no longer compensate for lack of pressure with PWM valves.
Slippery clutch packs shade mor contaminants under stress.
Steel plates start warping from accumulated heat
Enough contaminants plug solenoid valve screens and magnetic shaft Rpm sensors go blind.
TCU quits with fault codes...
Complete rebuild needed, not just dirty conductor kit.
Our best bet is to keep fresh ATF in the working range. Learn to read good shifts vs. bad shifts to limit abuse.
Premium deeper aluminum tranny pans are available with cooling fins and more easy drain (~$900!)
Shorter drain intervals help limit contaminant level.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Yesterday at 08:21 PM.
While you have the pan down, drop the valve body and clean it with brake cleaner or electrical parts cleaner to get the metal sludge off of everything. This can help your conductor plate last longer. Be sure and either clean or change the magnet(s) in the pan. Those fine metal particles are rough on an electronic transmission
Ok, you guys convinced me. Especially the distinction between the fluids used by modern and old transmissions. My buddy's anecdotal stories of having his transmissions going over 300k are of seriously older cars and trucks. So, i'm going to conclude that a 2013 transmission won't reach those high miles without service. However, I'm going to inquire with my local MB Indy Mech if he does a "power flush" or "power drain" (prescribed by Kent of Mercedes Source) or the standard gravity drain. I'd like a power drain as opposed to a power flush where pressurized air is pushing the fluid out the system. I'd prefer to pay someone to do the service if it's the power drain method. The cost of both the FCPEuro flush kit and the Mercedessource power drain kit will only save me $130. Not worth it to potentially **** it up.
Legit Street Cars has a video of the “power drain”. It’s actually an adapter that attaches to the valve body and uses low pressure air to force all the fluid out of the tranny, including the torque converter and trans fluid cooler. Start watching around 23 minutes in the video. I actually got the adapter, but have yet to use it.
Legit Street Cars has a video of the “power drain”. It’s actually an adapter that attaches to the valve body and uses low pressure air to force all the fluid out of the tranny, including the torque converter and trans fluid cooler. Start watching around 23 minutes in the video. I actually got the adapter, but have yet to use it.
I watched the linked video and he does a "power flush" blowing compressed air into the valve. I'm interested in doing the "power drain" that Kent from Mercedes Source describes. In his YT video of the "power drain", I think it was a 722.6 transmission he used. For the 722.9 7g, he has a separate video on his website for $19 to download. It's probably worth the money. Thanks!
I would just do a simple transmission fluid drain and fill, replace the transmission filter, replace the transfer case and differential fluids while you are at it.
Is the transfer case separate on the 463 even with the 722.904 transmission?
I replaced the fluid and filter in my 2010 W204 last year at 160,000 miles. The old fluid looked pretty good and when I cut open the old filter I did not see any metal bits which was a relief. The magnets had some black stuff on them, im assuming it was really fine metal. I was glad to clean it all out. The car runs and drives great. The Carfax showed the transmission was serviced at 40,000 and 80,000 miles at a Mercedes service center but then there were no more records of it. Though when I did it I noticed a generic non-Genuine MB filter so im assuming the used car dealer I bought it from did it.
I watched the linked video and he does a "power flush" blowing compressed air into the valve. I'm interested in doing the "power drain" that Kent from Mercedes Source describes. In his YT video of the "power drain", I think it was a 722.6 transmission he used. For the 722.9 7g, he has a separate video on his website for $19 to download. It's probably worth the money. Thanks!
No, a power flush uses a heated cleaning fluid, not air. A power flush collects the cleaning fluid for reuse after filtering. LSC just blows the fluid out for disposal. The tranny the LSC video is the 722.9 7G+, using blue tranny fluid. The car is a 2014 C300 4matic.
He is not blowing air into any valve, but rather through the valve body and transmission, to remove fluid from the TC and cooler without disconnecting lines or fiddling with the TC drain plug, which can be tricky.
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