SL/R129: The GOOSE turned 90K
#1
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The GOOSE turned 90K
well folks, the goose is now in the 90K mile club. seems like just yesterday i got her. as i think back to all the fun i have had with her, she truly is my best friend.
Mark
Mark
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Mercedes: 1998 SL500, 1997 S500, 1998 SLK230 K
Mark: Keep driving her they enjoy it. Next is the 100K. In all my years driving MB's I only had one past 100K. Later, JOE
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500 SL R129, Blue - 1991. Mini Cooper S, Works Kit Silver - 2007. Mitsubishi FTO, Silver - 1996.
since i got the engine rebuilt in the summer I hope I'm good for 200k... (I'm 107k at the minute). The body is still clean as a whistle so let's hope it holds together!
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Originally Posted by b4mmy
since i got the engine rebuilt in the summer I hope I'm good for 200k... (I'm 107k at the minute). The body is still clean as a whistle so let's hope it holds together!
mark
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500 SL R129, Blue - 1991. Mini Cooper S, Works Kit Silver - 2007. Mitsubishi FTO, Silver - 1996.
Originally Posted by RedMongoosE
why the engine rebuild?
mark
mark
The warning light that tells you there is something wrong with the engine came on first. It looks like a drawing of the engine sump if you know the one I mean.
I had a knoocking sound coming from the engine a little later. Then the engine started 'hunting', and I discussed it with my mechanic guy. His advice was to do a compression test on both sides which he did, and at that time there was no failure. We had to keep running it until it failed, or take it apart... which might cost as much as waiting for it to fail. So when it did we replaced the cylinder head gaskets and skimmed the cylinder head = $2k.
When it was put back together my mechanic guy said that there was a knocking coming from the little end and to take the thing apart, and fix it would be as expensive as buying a new reconditioned engine. I decided to rebuild this engine, because I knew it ....and really I should have walked away from it, but I didn't.
We took it apart and it turned out that there was a small crack on the cylinder head, the skim wasn't flat and there was substantial water ingress... and as I kept running it, a piston eventually bent trying to cope with a mixture of water and oil. As I had once or twice been out and about in the car, my mechanic showed me a way of getting the car moving if it was an emergency. This involoves removing the spark plugs from the side that has water, and then turning the engine over. This blows all the water out of the cylinder. Put the sparks back on, turn over and it works. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS because... Even though this car was still running, when the workshop showed me the piston I couldn't believe it... the piston was almost at 45 degrees and had put a groove in it's cylinder... and it was still running! That's proper engineering.
So we had to skim the heads (again), new gasket set, new set of pistons, reline the cylinders, and replaced a load of other stuff because we had it apart. I also got the guys to blast the whole engine clean. A few other bits like battery, aux fan, some pipes and in 2 months and about $8k later (ouch) we were back on the road.
As I had the car standing for so long there are a few problems with some of the electrics so I've had to get a new central locking pump, new wiper motor, new air con control unit, and .... I just noticed that the headlamps aren't dipping manually for some reason.
It has never ended Mark, I feel unlucky... but I would rather fix it than scrap it, because unfortunately for me, I am in love.
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#8
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Originally Posted by b4mmy
Hi Mark, long story, get yourself a beer and listen to my epic tale...
The warning light that tells you there is something wrong with the engine came on first. It looks like a drawing of the engine sump if you know the one I mean.
I had a knoocking sound coming from the engine a little later. Then the engine started 'hunting', and I discussed it with my mechanic guy. His advice was to do a compression test on both sides which he did, and at that time there was no failure. We had to keep running it until it failed, or take it apart... which might cost as much as waiting for it to fail. So when it did we replaced the cylinder head gaskets and skimmed the cylinder head = $2k.
When it was put back together my mechanic guy said that there was a knocking coming from the little end and to take the thing apart, and fix it would be as expensive as buying a new reconditioned engine. I decided to rebuild this engine, because I knew it ....and really I should have walked away from it, but I didn't.
We took it apart and it turned out that there was a small crack on the cylinder head, the skim wasn't flat and there was substantial water ingress... and as I kept running it, a piston eventually bent trying to cope with a mixture of water and oil. As I had once or twice been out and about in the car, my mechanic showed me a way of getting the car moving if it was an emergency. This involoves removing the spark plugs from the side that has water, and then turning the engine over. This blows all the water out of the cylinder. Put the sparks back on, turn over and it works. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS because... Even though this car was still running, when the workshop showed me the piston I couldn't believe it... the piston was almost at 45 degrees and had put a groove in it's cylinder... and it was still running! That's proper engineering.
So we had to skim the heads (again), new gasket set, new set of pistons, reline the cylinders, and replaced a load of other stuff because we had it apart. I also got the guys to blast the whole engine clean. A few other bits like battery, aux fan, some pipes and in 2 months and about $8k later (ouch) we were back on the road.
As I had the car standing for so long there are a few problems with some of the electrics so I've had to get a new central locking pump, new wiper motor, new air con control unit, and .... I just noticed that the headlamps aren't dipping manually for some reason.
It has never ended Mark, I feel unlucky... but I would rather fix it than scrap it, because unfortunately for me, I am in love.
The warning light that tells you there is something wrong with the engine came on first. It looks like a drawing of the engine sump if you know the one I mean.
I had a knoocking sound coming from the engine a little later. Then the engine started 'hunting', and I discussed it with my mechanic guy. His advice was to do a compression test on both sides which he did, and at that time there was no failure. We had to keep running it until it failed, or take it apart... which might cost as much as waiting for it to fail. So when it did we replaced the cylinder head gaskets and skimmed the cylinder head = $2k.
When it was put back together my mechanic guy said that there was a knocking coming from the little end and to take the thing apart, and fix it would be as expensive as buying a new reconditioned engine. I decided to rebuild this engine, because I knew it ....and really I should have walked away from it, but I didn't.
We took it apart and it turned out that there was a small crack on the cylinder head, the skim wasn't flat and there was substantial water ingress... and as I kept running it, a piston eventually bent trying to cope with a mixture of water and oil. As I had once or twice been out and about in the car, my mechanic showed me a way of getting the car moving if it was an emergency. This involoves removing the spark plugs from the side that has water, and then turning the engine over. This blows all the water out of the cylinder. Put the sparks back on, turn over and it works. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS because... Even though this car was still running, when the workshop showed me the piston I couldn't believe it... the piston was almost at 45 degrees and had put a groove in it's cylinder... and it was still running! That's proper engineering.
So we had to skim the heads (again), new gasket set, new set of pistons, reline the cylinders, and replaced a load of other stuff because we had it apart. I also got the guys to blast the whole engine clean. A few other bits like battery, aux fan, some pipes and in 2 months and about $8k later (ouch) we were back on the road.
As I had the car standing for so long there are a few problems with some of the electrics so I've had to get a new central locking pump, new wiper motor, new air con control unit, and .... I just noticed that the headlamps aren't dipping manually for some reason.
It has never ended Mark, I feel unlucky... but I would rather fix it than scrap it, because unfortunately for me, I am in love.
what was the knocking sound like? was it knocking or clicking?
i am just asking all of this becasue my car sat for about 3 years and never got turned on. and now about 1.4 years later ive put 60K on it and i drive it hard. and there is a very very small clicking noice comming from under my hood, and it is NOT the noise from the fan. i asked my machanic and he sais that it is a little plastic thing somewhere that has broke, so i hope he is right- thatx
mark
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500 SL R129, Blue - 1991. Mini Cooper S, Works Kit Silver - 2007. Mitsubishi FTO, Silver - 1996.
Originally Posted by RedMongoosE
what was the knocking sound like? was it knocking or clicking?
mark
mark
#10
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Originally Posted by b4mmy
....it was a thump, more than a knock. The last time I heard clicking like what you describe was on my FTO, and it turned out to be the tappets, which had to be replaced. When you started the car the first time did you get it serviced (oil etc..) straight away? A bit of plastic flapping around isn't a good enough answer really. Its a real worry when a mechanic can't give you the right answer straight away isn't it.... especially when things cost so much to fix.... I MEAN YOU THINK THEY WOULD KNOW!!!!
when i baught the car the very first thing i did was get everything replaced, (fluids, belts exc) the noise is when i start it, and when i press the gas, the ticking gets faster, then after the engine warms up, the ticking goes away. when i get my other car back, im going to take the goose in.
Mark
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500 SL R129, Blue - 1991. Mini Cooper S, Works Kit Silver - 2007. Mitsubishi FTO, Silver - 1996.
Thats exactly what happened with my FTO. The reason the ticking goes away is that the oil has done it's job by the time the engine is warm. I honestly hope I'm wrong but you might need to get the valves looked at. If it is the valves you will have to replace them in pairs, but most people replace them all while the engine is stripped. Like I said, I hope I'm worng, but it sounds like what happened to me...
#12
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That sound on cold start up that goes away after 30/45 seconds is normal in all SL's.
I never knew what it was till I asked my mechanic..
It's the environment unit[that's what he calls it,I'm sure it has another name],
If anyone knows what it is,please tell us
I never knew what it was till I asked my mechanic..
It's the environment unit[that's what he calls it,I'm sure it has another name],
If anyone knows what it is,please tell us
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500 SL R129, Blue - 1991. Mini Cooper S, Works Kit Silver - 2007. Mitsubishi FTO, Silver - 1996.
Originally Posted by dafi129
That sound on cold start up that goes away after 30/45 seconds is normal in all SL's
#14
heres some stuff i found about ticking m119 engine at benzworld:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/foru...osts=14&fid=25
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/foru...osts=14&fid=25