using the pump/dash switch. I have a leaky cylinder, and I'm afraid that there is so little fluid in the system that it would be dangerous to even use it to lift the hardtop up. My wrench says that there is a procedure to do this manually and a tool that should be in the car. In my 20 years of messing with 129's, this is news to me. Can someone point me to a post or how-to? Thanks....

 

Your 'wrench' is correct. The details/steps are in the Owner's Manual. If you don't have one, you can download the specific manual for your MY at...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ml#post2391320

The tool your tech is talking about should be found in the toolkit that came with the car. It's a flat, roughly 12" tool with an open end wrench on one end and a 5mm allen on the other. If you don't have one or can't find it, these things are around $12-$14 at the dealer(only source)

Last, if you decide to have the cylinders rebuilt(recommended) for around $50@, this is the guy many/most of us use. Very good, very fast, easy to work with and warrants for 3yrs. Note, if the leaking cylinder is one of a 'pair', like the ones in the front latches, have them both rebuilt. If it's a single lift cylinder (rear cover), just do the one. Discuss your options w/Dennis...

Mercedes Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuilder

Dennis Ficken
16285 S. Chester
Olathe, Ks 66062
(913) 544-4521

mercedescylinders@sbcglobal.net

Good Luck-

Bob

 

owner's manual. And no, there are no instructions in the manual about removing the top manually. I have put the tool in the proper location and it will do nothing but release the front latches. The rear does nothing, so it's still locked in place. Very frustrating. I've owned about a dozen of these cars, and experienced all kinds of top maladies, but never been down this road before.
BTW, the fronts have already been replaced and dont' leak. There is one unit that has not been replaced, the LR one for the top well. About another $600ish dollars for that one. There's already a receipt in the car for the other $2900 that was spent on the others last summer. Ugh.

 

Re: the instructions...I downloaded the OM from the site I sent you to for my '99 SL, and the instructions and pictures are in there. If you think it would help you, send me your email address and I'll cut/paste the pages you'll need. I'm amazed that you couldn't find these at the site.

Be that as it may, the rebuilder I gave you won't charge $600 for the cylinder rebuild; but call him to verify.

I was using the front cylinders as an example of 'pairs'. If yours are working, great.

 

it would be appreciated if you could forward that to me. This is an older 129, a 92, so very little info in the manual. Yes, the $600 included the acuator, labor, and refill of the fluid, so I don't think that's too bad.
Thanks for any info you can offer, I appreciate it.

 

As I said in the other message, send me your email address. Reason, the files are too large to post here. And $600 vs $50 is 'not bad'...wow

BTW, I just rechecked my OM, and listed under Soft Top in the index are 3 page numbers, the first two are instructions to use the automatic top features, the third page number has the manual operation instructions-

 

Just for grins, I downloaded the '92 Owners Manual from...

http://bayhas.com:8080/r129manu/

and starting around pp 121 or so are the 3 pages of instructions and pix to get the manual top operation accomplished. Have a nice day-

 

would you believe that the manual online and what I have (the original in the car) are not the same....
And I know I'm stupid sometimes....but I see soft top lock and unlock...and hardtop locking...but I still see no instructions for manual hardtop removal. I'm going to guess that some combination of the soft top instructions will work? I guess I'll see....

 

Two months later, and after checking through the manual(s), you have apparently managed to remove your hardtop manually let us know if you need any more help. If there is a little bit of fluid left in the pump, it should have been able to unlock your hardtop, as well. The pumps shouldn't run dry, but it takes less than an ounce of fluid to unlock both front locks and both rear locks. There will not be any high pressure leak during the unlocking process - that happens during the locking process...

The tool is p/n 1295810066. Dealer price $20. I just checked parts.com; they charge $14.40.

For those of you who read this while stuck in some kind of soft top emergency without a soft top tool, you can use an Allen wrench and a 10-mm open wrench, or even pliers, to get out of trouble.

The Allen wrench for the front locks is 6 mm. You will probably need to put some extension on a regular Allen wrench to lock or unlock the front locks (for leverage). A T-40 torx wrench will do the job, as well.

The 10-mm open wrench in the MB tool is used on the tonneau cover locks and on the rear locks. For hardtop removal, you don't have to deal with the tonneau cover locks - just front locks and rear locks.

Some detail on the tonneau lock(s): your emergency 10-mm wrench needs to be fairly long to reach the tonneau lock actuator between the roll bar and the soft top storage compartment wall. Frankly, in an emergency I have used long pliers before and was simply very careful not to damage the vinyl/leather while sliding the pliers down there. MY '97 and up have only one tonneau cover lock (on the right side).

Some detail on the rear locks: MY '95 and up have rear locks without official owner access for manual operation. These locks have smaller levers for manual operation, and there are no access holes in the forward, carpeted trunk panel. You can still manually lock and unlock these locks by removing a few clips from the upper panel corners, pulling back these corners, and using the soft top tool or an open 10-mm wrench to move the levers on the locks.

I have posted some more details and photos about manual operation of late model rear locks in the following thread: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ml#post4380896


Bob, I appreciate your loyalty to Dennis. I know you have been tireless in promoting Dennis, and I am not aware of any interaction between you and Top Hydraulics. "Many of us use Dennis" applies; "most" does not apply any more. Times change: Dennis used to be the one to go to, and he still does good work for the money. However, Top Hydraulics has come along and is now doing much higher volume for about the same price per cylinder and slightly cheaper per set, but using superior seals and not putting a caveat about the hydraulic fluid on the 3-year warranty. We offer phone and email support during the daytime, as we are not a one man show and we are available during regular business hours.

-Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com

 

Klaus, since you directed the end of your post to me, allow me to reply to the items you raised.

First, it appears congratulations are in order as I see your profile/masthead says you're now a SPONSOR. You're not yet listed in the Vendor/Sponsor directory though. Thought you should know.

Now to topic...I have no interest, financial or otherwise in Dennis' rebuild business, other than being a very satisfied customer. Your use of the phrase, ...tireless in promoting'... I see as supporting a supplier/vendor about whom I have personal knowledge, in reply to the same question over and over about about the 129 leaky cylinders. And you're correct, I've never engaged Top Hydraulics for rebuilds. You'll also notice that I wrote positively about Jeff Caplan's Odometer Gears in VA recently, and John Olgysan's Import Auto Tops & Interiors, et. al. for the very same reason/motivation... personal knowledge as a satisfied customer in reply to a member question.

Moving along, as I hope you can see, I use '/' often to communicate 'either-or', 'from-to', etc. Since I have no idea about who does how many rebuilds, the accurate way to communicate that, IMO, was the use of many/most. You both can certainly assert whatever you like; I find it an 'unproveable' claim from either of you, and therefor moot.

And finally, where you say, 'Times change: Dennis used to be the one to go to, and he still does good work for the money. However, Top Hydraulics has come along and is now doing much higher volume for about the same price per cylinder and slightly cheaper per set, but using superior seals... almost reads like a paraphrase of 'The King is Dead; Long Live the King'. And to think I missed the coronation! To my knowledge, you're both alive and well.

Customers are a capricious lot and will choose suppliers/vendors for a variety of reasons, but not necessarily because one states that they're 'bigger, better, faster, etc. than the other. Frankly, I want you both to survive & thrive as if one of you faults, the other gets a monopoly which I've never seen be beneficial to customers. Best of luck to you and I wish you nothing but good fortune as you build your business.

Bob