SL-Class (R129) 1990-2002: SL 280, SL 300, SL 320, SL 500, SL 600, SL 60 AMG

SL/R129: New SL320 owner with electrical problems

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Old 01-10-2012, 05:59 PM
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New SL320 owner with electrical problems

Hello boys and girls, I'm new to this forum. I just purchased a 1997 Sl320 with 64k from an 80yr old man. The engine seems to be in perfect condition and the car runs great but I'm having some electrical issues that I thought you guys can help with.

When I first started the car I noticed that the Odo/rpm and blinkers where not working but the car had been sitting for 7months with a dead battery so I did expect a few problems. After a quick Search on here, I checked fuse #14 and fixed that problem

I also noticed the seats where not moving back and forth so I tried to replace fuse #21 but I popped as soon As I inserted it. Any Hints on the problem?

When I try and Open the Soft top i here a noise, but nothing happens? Any links that I could read up on the fix the Top?

I'll be doing alot of searching these next few days but If anyone could post any tips on this thread I would appreciate it.

Thanks

Luis


PS: I paid $1500 so I think I got a good deal


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Old 01-11-2012, 08:11 PM
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Welcome, where in the would are you? Lighthouse ( Tophydraulics.com ) is an excellent source for top and all that. With having spent 1,5K on spark plugs, I envy you! I have only done this 15-18 times so I'm not an expert, unless you count all the mechanics I've supported, but I always drain and observe all the fluids I can squeeze from a vehicle. Always replace with new fluids, fuses and ignition parts and turn over the engine by hand. You may be well past that point. Thanks for keeping the benz from a junk yard!
Old 01-11-2012, 09:31 PM
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Thumbs up Congratulations!

Originally Posted by luiml73
I also noticed the seats where not moving back and forth so I tried to replace fuse #21 but I popped as soon As I inserted it. Any Hints on the problem?

When I try and Open the Soft top i here a noise, but nothing happens? Any links that I could read up on the fix the Top?
Luis, welcome to the forum! (Wow, that's an incredible deal you got there...)

It would help to know where you are located - you can edit your profile by going to Quick Links -> User Control Panel -> Edit Details.

On the seats, let's start to isolate where you short (blowing the fuse) is coming from. Other members may have better input, but I personally would start out by unplugging the seat controllers under the seats and checking if the fuse still blows at that point. You remove the seat cushions only for access; they are secured with two small screws in the front, under the cushion.

Regarding the top, we can likely help you out there. This may be as simple as the windows needing to be synchronized after your battery was down. If your windows don't drop a little when you open the doors, then the synchronization is the first thing you need to do. This applies to model years '95 through '02. It is described in your owner's manual, and here it is in bullet points:

- Starting out with a good battery, make sure the trunk is fully closed.
- Get in the car, with both doors closed.
- Ignition on, engine off.
- Run both windows down; separately or together.
- Run both windows up again, and hold the "up" button for a few seconds after the windows are already fully up.

If the windows now drop a little once you open the doors, you synchronization was successful!

Please let us know what you find from there.

Originally Posted by SRHsl600
Welcome, where in the world are you? Lighthouse ( Tophydraulics.com ) is an excellent source for top and all that.
SRHsSL600, thank you for the kind reference.

"Lighthouse" is actually my handle on BenzWorld.org, where I have made hundreds of posts related to soft top issues. Our website is www.tophydraulicsinc.com.

Hope this helps,

-Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com
Old 01-13-2012, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the quick response guys. I did a little more searching on the forums so I went ahead and check the Hydraulic fluid under the spare tire. EMPTY!!! I went ahead and bought some from the dealer this morning and poured it in but I came right out the bottom LOL!! I tried opening the top and it seemed it was trying to open, but it didnt really move much. I did however manage to bring the rollbar down before it leaked all the fluid. BTW: My windows do drop when i open the doors.



I was able to get the code for the radio but the volume will not go up and the antena will not raise. I do hear the antena motor working though.

Few more pics of her after a good wash and the cosmetic problems.







Old 01-14-2012, 10:10 AM
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radio has known issues with the volume knob, often made more functional with electrical contact cleaning spray. Radio shack sell the spray. Spray after removing the knob so that the reostat contacts aare clean and have better contacts. The antenna can have the white nylon gears replaced for about $25 or you can get a Hirschmann. I bought the "China replacement type" first and didn't want to rewire the coaxial cable so used the replacement gears that I found on E-bay. Good luck with your great find!
Old 01-14-2012, 11:48 AM
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Thanks for the great tips. ill get working on the radio and antenna.
Old 01-14-2012, 05:57 PM
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Thumbs up Fixing the leaks from the hydraulic top

Originally Posted by luiml73
I went ahead and check the Hydraulic fluid under the spare tire. EMPTY!!! I went ahead and bought some from the dealer this morning and poured it in but I came right out the bottom LOL!! I tried opening the top and it seemed it was trying to open, but it didnt really move much. I did however manage to bring the rollbar down before it leaked all the fluid. BTW: My windows do drop when i open the doors.
Good job! I'll post some useful info below about the hydraulic cylinders, to be used when you are ready to deal with the top.

The good news: You likely only have some major leaks from the hydraulic cylinders. As you have already learned when searching the forums, all OEM cylinders will leak sooner or later, unless the car gets wrecked prematurely. These leaks can be fixed much cheaper than buying new cylinders by having the cylinders rebuilt. On top of that, the new seals will far outlast the original ones. Taking out the cylinders and re-installing them is a DIY job for most forum members.

If the previous owner has never replaced any cylinders, brace yourself for eventually having to upgrade them all. Regard it as the cost of owning a fancy convertible that nearly every owner has to go through eventually. Once you have done this job right, you will always feel great about moving the top, knowing that it will open and close as it is supposed to!

However, you can inspect the cylinders first and see where the damage is the worst, in case you want to try and fix this piece by piece. Your car has 12 cylinders for the convertible top, plus two cylinders for the roll bar (the roll bar cylinders rarely ever fail, and you will not find anyone willing to rebuild them for liability reasons). It is literally cheaper by the dozen, and you ultimately save a lot of work by doing as much at the same time as you are comfortable with. I can guide you through almost any problems you encounter over the phone, or in this forum.

The following are step-by-step DIY instructions with lots of photos for inspection, removal, and re-installation of all 12 actuators. When doing all cylinders at once, most average DIYers take about a day to remove them all and a day to re-install them all. I can do R&R in about 4-5 hours, but that's a different story. Some of the cylinders are VERY easy to remove and re-install - the tonneau cover locks, for example, will take anyone only a few minutes each if you send them in with cylinders still mounted in the locks.

Tonneau Cover Lock Cylinders:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...0Cylinders.pdf
Front Lock Cylinders:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...%20Removal.pdf
Rear Lock Cylinders:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...%20Removal.pdf
Tonneau Cover Lift Cylinders:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...0Cylinders.pdf
Bow Extension Cylinders:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...%20Removal.pdf
Main Lift Cylinders:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...%20Removal.pdf

Attached to the bottom is a drawing with the location of all cylinders.

Hope this helps,

-Klaus

klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com
Attached Thumbnails New SL320 owner with electrical problems-r129-sl-diagram.jpg  

Last edited by Top Hydraulics; 01-14-2012 at 05:59 PM.
Old 01-18-2012, 08:50 PM
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Thanks for all the great info. Now I know who to use to rebuild my hydraulics. So I went to the junkyard today and hit the jack pot. I found a right tail light assembly for $24 and a hardtop for $200.


Shot at 2012-01-18

How I got it home LOL!!


Shot at 2012-01-18

Unfortunately I lost the two rear latches that go on the Hardtop on my way home.I didn't know they come off Still happy about the deal though. I'm also missing the 3rd brake light cover. The ones on the cars in the Junkyards where cracked!!

EDIT: Did I loose the rear Hardtop locks or do the hide inside the hardtop?

Mine are LED's?


Shot at 2012-01-18

Last edited by luiml73; 01-18-2012 at 08:57 PM.
Old 01-19-2012, 03:39 PM
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Nevermind, I found the locking pins on the hardtop. I was looking in the wrong location. It was dark
Old 01-24-2012, 12:46 PM
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antenna gears

Bridgewood Motorsports sold the antenna gear set. Easy install but keep the area clean and be gentle with the Hirschmann plastic housing. Snap together flanges break when forced! A gentle squeeze once all the flanges are aligned.
Old 02-18-2012, 02:41 PM
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Almost done

As soon as I change all the fluids/filters/plugs I'll contact Top Hydraulics and tackle the softop problem.


Shot at 2012-02-18

Last edited by luiml73; 02-18-2012 at 02:50 PM.

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