SL/R129: M119 temp question and door window adjustment
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 13
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1995 sl500
M119 temp question and door window adjustment
Hi guys and gals.
Got a 95 sl and wanna kill two birds without flooding the page.
Temperature is running at 90c majority of the time after replacing open thermostat. Used an oem 'stat and zerox 50/50.
Outside Temperature is usually 80f. I replaced the reservoir with an updated one off a 2001 model and it seemed fairly new (plastic was still clear). The original cap neck had a tiny leak so that why I swapped it. The original stat ran 85c in south Florida heat but took a while to warm up. The new one seems to creep to 95-98c sometimes and really takes some driving to bring it down. Is this normal? Will stay at 85 until I start heavy speeds or distance.
As for window adjustment, it seems the windows are over traveling and you can see them push up on the hard and soft top making a creaking noise at the top of the door. It'll make a creaking noise if I flex the window by hand when door is open so I assume something's loose in the motor assembly. The windows are also slightly tilted aft making a tad bit more effort to close. Can I make both height and angle adjustments INSIde the door panal at once? And how so?
Thank you!
Got a 95 sl and wanna kill two birds without flooding the page.
Temperature is running at 90c majority of the time after replacing open thermostat. Used an oem 'stat and zerox 50/50.
Outside Temperature is usually 80f. I replaced the reservoir with an updated one off a 2001 model and it seemed fairly new (plastic was still clear). The original cap neck had a tiny leak so that why I swapped it. The original stat ran 85c in south Florida heat but took a while to warm up. The new one seems to creep to 95-98c sometimes and really takes some driving to bring it down. Is this normal? Will stay at 85 until I start heavy speeds or distance.
As for window adjustment, it seems the windows are over traveling and you can see them push up on the hard and soft top making a creaking noise at the top of the door. It'll make a creaking noise if I flex the window by hand when door is open so I assume something's loose in the motor assembly. The windows are also slightly tilted aft making a tad bit more effort to close. Can I make both height and angle adjustments INSIde the door panal at once? And how so?
Thank you!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 13
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1995 sl500
Never to my knowledge. It's got 60k on it and previous owners really kept up on it. Original coolant seemed clear and the stat and pump looked brand new on the inside. You think a flush would fix the issue? Will driving at 90 hurt the motor in the long run?
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2016
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1991 300SL
I just finished working on the window in my 1991. I don't know for sure if yours is the same. Take the door panel off (search youtube: there are two good videos). When the panel is off, there are two nuts on either end on top. Drop the window a few inches, loosen these two nuts (which are in slots) and move the nuts up or down until the window closes correctly. A few minutes of trial and error with these two nuts and it should be fine.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Santo domingo
1986 300SE; 1996 SL500; 2002 S500
Start the car, turn of the AC, wait the temp to rise to operating temp (80c)
Open your hood, if the electric fans haven't started ( with the AC off) your problem is the sensor that put it on operation. It has one for the gauge and one for the fan, is a resistance type, that sends 4 speeds to those fans.
The AC only put 1 low speed.
Open your hood, if the electric fans haven't started ( with the AC off) your problem is the sensor that put it on operation. It has one for the gauge and one for the fan, is a resistance type, that sends 4 speeds to those fans.
The AC only put 1 low speed.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 13
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1995 sl500
Start the car, turn of the AC, wait the temp to rise to operating temp (80c)
Open your hood, if the electric fans haven't started ( with the AC off) your problem is the sensor that put it on operation. It has one for the gauge and one for the fan, is a resistance type, that sends 4 speeds to those fans.
The AC only put 1 low speed.
Open your hood, if the electric fans haven't started ( with the AC off) your problem is the sensor that put it on operation. It has one for the gauge and one for the fan, is a resistance type, that sends 4 speeds to those fans.
The AC only put 1 low speed.
AC low pressure hose blew and am going to have it repaired.
Never had the aux fans kick on but temp has never gone over 98-99c
I have used a couple laser thermometers which show temp is reading well BuT the temp gauge on the dash sticks. I have to repeatedly tap on it to get the needle to move. I will be removing that soon. Previous owner had a light bulb changed and may have screwed it up.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Santo domingo
1986 300SE; 1996 SL500; 2002 S500
The fan temp sensor is bad, temp doesn't go high unless you spent a lot of time in city driving at low speed or at traffic.
Fix that first and if the problem persists, which I think will not, check the fan clutch and perform a radiator flush ( you can also do it, it's never a bad idea)
Fix that first and if the problem persists, which I think will not, check the fan clutch and perform a radiator flush ( you can also do it, it's never a bad idea)
Banned
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
The fans come on low-speed if the outside temperature is 30C or greater and the A/C is running.
Last edited by bobterry99; Aug 30, 2016 at 11:41 AM.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
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1995 sl500
Then how would I be able to test the aux fan function? As I said, I've never seen the temp hit above 100 before so I assume it wouldn't kick on.
could borrow an ohm meter.
I'm putting the ac on hold until I put new rear suspension/struts, and flex discs on.
Also, fan clutch seems good. Shortly after shutdown, you can turn it pretty easy but will stiffen up a lot the more you turn it. I assume that's a pass grade?
Btw, can I drive the car with the low pressure ac hose removed for repair?
could borrow an ohm meter.
I'm putting the ac on hold until I put new rear suspension/struts, and flex discs on.
Also, fan clutch seems good. Shortly after shutdown, you can turn it pretty easy but will stiffen up a lot the more you turn it. I assume that's a pass grade?
Btw, can I drive the car with the low pressure ac hose removed for repair?
Last edited by Mike Yorkavitz; Aug 31, 2016 at 04:44 PM.
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Banned
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
Switch the ignition off, engine off. Put the climate control in Automatic. At the A/C dryer there is a green pressure switch with two leads. Unplug the leads and jumper them with a wire or paperclip -- this simulates high refrigerant pressure and should cause the fans to run.
I tried this on one of my cars, and it did not stiffen. I don't think either of us should be concerned.
Yes, just make sure any openings are covered to prevent debris from entering the system.
Yes, just make sure any openings are covered to prevent debris from entering the system.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2016
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1995 sl500
I tested the aux fans and they work.
I'm worried I didn't bleed air out of the system properly. When I did the thermostat, I just removed the top hose and the thermostat Israel's w/o draining the radiator but I did refill properly and it's been over 6000 miles already. I just fixed my temp gauge as well. Still reads right without knocking on the dash.
Clutch fan works 100% as it should. The car will operate At normal temperatures on highway speeds until I get off and they creep to 90-95 and lingers there. At idle while revving it will go to 100c but revving in in the 1600rpm range with the clutch fan roaring will drop it. Turing the heater on will drop it very quickly as well.
I'm worried I didn't bleed air out of the system properly. When I did the thermostat, I just removed the top hose and the thermostat Israel's w/o draining the radiator but I did refill properly and it's been over 6000 miles already. I just fixed my temp gauge as well. Still reads right without knocking on the dash.
Clutch fan works 100% as it should. The car will operate At normal temperatures on highway speeds until I get off and they creep to 90-95 and lingers there. At idle while revving it will go to 100c but revving in in the 1600rpm range with the clutch fan roaring will drop it. Turing the heater on will drop it very quickly as well.
Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 31
From: SW Florida
1995 SL500 - 2017 AMG GLC 43
Hi guys and gals.
Got a 95 sl and wanna kill two birds without flooding the page.
Temperature is running at 90c majority of the time after replacing open thermostat. Used an oem 'stat and zerox 50/50.
Outside Temperature is usually 80f. I replaced the reservoir with an updated one off a 2001 model and it seemed fairly new (plastic was still clear). The original cap neck had a tiny leak so that why I swapped it. The original stat ran 85c in south Florida heat but took a while to warm up. The new one seems to creep to 95-98c sometimes and really takes some driving to bring it down. Is this normal? Will stay at 85 until I start heavy speeds or distance.
As for window adjustment, it seems the windows are over traveling and you can see them push up on the hard and soft top making a creaking noise at the top of the door. It'll make a creaking noise if I flex the window by hand when door is open so I assume something's loose in the motor assembly. The windows are also slightly tilted aft making a tad bit more effort to close. Can I make both height and angle adjustments INSIde the door panal at once? And how so?
Thank you!
Got a 95 sl and wanna kill two birds without flooding the page.
Temperature is running at 90c majority of the time after replacing open thermostat. Used an oem 'stat and zerox 50/50.
Outside Temperature is usually 80f. I replaced the reservoir with an updated one off a 2001 model and it seemed fairly new (plastic was still clear). The original cap neck had a tiny leak so that why I swapped it. The original stat ran 85c in south Florida heat but took a while to warm up. The new one seems to creep to 95-98c sometimes and really takes some driving to bring it down. Is this normal? Will stay at 85 until I start heavy speeds or distance.
As for window adjustment, it seems the windows are over traveling and you can see them push up on the hard and soft top making a creaking noise at the top of the door. It'll make a creaking noise if I flex the window by hand when door is open so I assume something's loose in the motor assembly. The windows are also slightly tilted aft making a tad bit more effort to close. Can I make both height and angle adjustments INSIde the door panal at once? And how so?
Thank you!
