SL/R129: Lower shock bushings SL600
#26
Yes it is: 10.0 mm. The joint bushing is maintenance-free, made of galvanized steel and stainless steel. I guess, some lithim grease will be enough for protection.
I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser
Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay
I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser
Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay
The following 2 users liked this post by AndreasHannover:
FATHERTIME (05-13-2022),
sushipaste (01-18-2024)
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Yorba Linda CA
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AndreasHannoverAndreasHannover
I Bought a new unit from AZ Autohaus $411.00 shipped It's a genuine MB part. So now I will attempt to repair the worn one for future use on left side if needed. I hope to get the bearing soon Thanks for the great pictorial and part location info
I Bought a new unit from AZ Autohaus $411.00 shipped It's a genuine MB part. So now I will attempt to repair the worn one for future use on left side if needed. I hope to get the bearing soon Thanks for the great pictorial and part location info
#29
Super Member
These guys will rebuild both the front struts and the rear shocks.
This might come in handy when new alternatives dry up.
Rebuild Master Tech
https://rebuildmastertech.com/search...elf%20Leveling
This might come in handy when new alternatives dry up.
Rebuild Master Tech
https://rebuildmastertech.com/search...elf%20Leveling
The following 2 users liked this post by mahunt:
FATHERTIME (11-07-2023),
Pazo (10-31-2023)
#31
Member
It looks like the aluminum was cracked when the bearing was pushed out.
If the bearing surround (the joint part) was serviceable, then the bearing eye could possibly be reamed oversize and an insert used.
When rebuilding the 5 link rear suspension, inserts (2103520043) are used on the older cars (mine included) for the attachment hardware.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/2103520043
After a bunch of miles (currently 270K miles), I just got new rear ADSII shocks from Sachs. Oddly enough, the front struts showed no signs of fatigue. The only things I changed on the front were the hydraulic O-rings at the top of the strut and the bump stops.
If the bearing surround (the joint part) was serviceable, then the bearing eye could possibly be reamed oversize and an insert used.
When rebuilding the 5 link rear suspension, inserts (2103520043) are used on the older cars (mine included) for the attachment hardware.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/2103520043
After a bunch of miles (currently 270K miles), I just got new rear ADSII shocks from Sachs. Oddly enough, the front struts showed no signs of fatigue. The only things I changed on the front were the hydraulic O-rings at the top of the strut and the bump stops.
1. at 270k miles, both front struts, both rear struts, and both front strut mounts were all original?
2. what part number (or if not a Mercedes/aftermarket part, what specifications) did you use for the orings on the front struts top hydraulic lines?
#32
Super Member
The front struts are still original to the car.
The front strut mounts have been replaced, but earlier than 2018. I can't remember when, but I also replaced the bellows, upper strut cushion and top O-ring. I got the O-ring from a fellow member, I don't recall the part number, but if I was doing any work to the struts, I would replace the O-ring.
The rear "shocks" (you say struts) have been replaced.
I also replaced the grommets for the strut's top hydraulic line as it passes through the strut tower into the wheel well. Those grommets are no longer available. I mentioned the grommets and the strut refresh work in a post either on this site or the other one. It might contain the O-ring number.
Do a search.
The front strut mounts have been replaced, but earlier than 2018. I can't remember when, but I also replaced the bellows, upper strut cushion and top O-ring. I got the O-ring from a fellow member, I don't recall the part number, but if I was doing any work to the struts, I would replace the O-ring.
The rear "shocks" (you say struts) have been replaced.
I also replaced the grommets for the strut's top hydraulic line as it passes through the strut tower into the wheel well. Those grommets are no longer available. I mentioned the grommets and the strut refresh work in a post either on this site or the other one. It might contain the O-ring number.
Do a search.
The following users liked this post:
sushipaste (01-09-2024)
#33
Member
Thank you. Doing strut mounts soon (currently at 136k miles). Excluding the accumulators, I’m assuming the entire suspension is original. I made sure to get the bellows, bump stops, and fluid as well.
#34
Member
The front struts are still original to the car.
The front strut mounts have been replaced, but earlier than 2018. I can't remember when, but I also replaced the bellows, upper strut cushion and top O-ring. I got the O-ring from a fellow member, I don't recall the part number, but if I was doing any work to the struts, I would replace the O-ring.
The rear "shocks" (you say struts) have been replaced.
I also replaced the grommets for the strut's top hydraulic line as it passes through the strut tower into the wheel well. Those grommets are no longer available. I mentioned the grommets and the strut refresh work in a post either on this site or the other one. It might contain the O-ring number.
Do a search.
The front strut mounts have been replaced, but earlier than 2018. I can't remember when, but I also replaced the bellows, upper strut cushion and top O-ring. I got the O-ring from a fellow member, I don't recall the part number, but if I was doing any work to the struts, I would replace the O-ring.
The rear "shocks" (you say struts) have been replaced.
I also replaced the grommets for the strut's top hydraulic line as it passes through the strut tower into the wheel well. Those grommets are no longer available. I mentioned the grommets and the strut refresh work in a post either on this site or the other one. It might contain the O-ring number.
Do a search.
#35
Super Member
Yes, that's the thread.
I contacted him and he was kind enough to give me 2 O-rings for my refurbishment.
Does your front strut oil connection seep?
I did as he advised and removed the 2 top hydraulic hoses in order to swap out the O-rings. Even with the pressure released from the front system, if you attempt to lower the strut piston; a BUNCH of oil will shoot out the top of the fitting. Best to attach a flexible hose to the top of the open strut and route it to a container before attempting to compress; if changing out the strut cushion or bellows. It really is necessary to flip the top oil pipes upside down to ensure you retrieve all the original O-ring and fully insert the new ones. Unless you feel lucky.
It's going to be messy.
Upon removing the 2 upper hydraulic lines, I discovered that the grommets where the pipe enters the wheel well were deteriorated. I hope yours are serviceable as I believe they are now NLA.
I contacted him and he was kind enough to give me 2 O-rings for my refurbishment.
Does your front strut oil connection seep?
I did as he advised and removed the 2 top hydraulic hoses in order to swap out the O-rings. Even with the pressure released from the front system, if you attempt to lower the strut piston; a BUNCH of oil will shoot out the top of the fitting. Best to attach a flexible hose to the top of the open strut and route it to a container before attempting to compress; if changing out the strut cushion or bellows. It really is necessary to flip the top oil pipes upside down to ensure you retrieve all the original O-ring and fully insert the new ones. Unless you feel lucky.
It's going to be messy.
Upon removing the 2 upper hydraulic lines, I discovered that the grommets where the pipe enters the wheel well were deteriorated. I hope yours are serviceable as I believe they are now NLA.
The following users liked this post:
sushipaste (01-11-2024)
#36
Member
Yes, that's the thread.
I contacted him and he was kind enough to give me 2 O-rings for my refurbishment.
Does your front strut oil connection seep?
I did as he advised and removed the 2 top hydraulic hoses in order to swap out the O-rings. Even with the pressure released from the front system, if you attempt to lower the strut piston; a BUNCH of oil will shoot out the top of the fitting. Best to attach a flexible hose to the top of the open strut and route it to a container before attempting to compress; if changing out the strut cushion or bellows. It really is necessary to flip the top oil pipes upside down to ensure you retrieve all the original O-ring and fully insert the new ones. Unless you feel lucky.
It's going to be messy.
Upon removing the 2 upper hydraulic lines, I discovered that the grommets where the pipe enters the wheel well were deteriorated. I hope yours are serviceable as I believe they are now NLA.
I contacted him and he was kind enough to give me 2 O-rings for my refurbishment.
Does your front strut oil connection seep?
I did as he advised and removed the 2 top hydraulic hoses in order to swap out the O-rings. Even with the pressure released from the front system, if you attempt to lower the strut piston; a BUNCH of oil will shoot out the top of the fitting. Best to attach a flexible hose to the top of the open strut and route it to a container before attempting to compress; if changing out the strut cushion or bellows. It really is necessary to flip the top oil pipes upside down to ensure you retrieve all the original O-ring and fully insert the new ones. Unless you feel lucky.
It's going to be messy.
Upon removing the 2 upper hydraulic lines, I discovered that the grommets where the pipe enters the wheel well were deteriorated. I hope yours are serviceable as I believe they are now NLA.
#38
Member
Yes it is: 10.0 mm. The joint bushing is maintenance-free, made of galvanized steel and stainless steel. I guess, some lithim grease will be enough for protection.
I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser
Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay
I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser
Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay
#39
Member
Yes it is: 10.0 mm. The joint bushing is maintenance-free, made of galvanized steel and stainless steel. I guess, some lithim grease will be enough for protection.
I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser
Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay
I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser
Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay
The following users liked this post:
sushipaste (01-24-2024)
#41
Member
#42
Member