Hello all. I have a 2001 SL500 with some interesting issues.

1. Both brake lights stay on all the time. I replaced the brake switch to no avail. The third (trunk) brake light wasnt working, so i cut the wires, cleanly. Both brake lights are still on.

2. The gauge cluster fuse blows (or "blew" until i upped the capacity). I took it to my local car shop. They informed me that i had a draw coming from with the cluster or the switches/lights about the rear view mirror. After paying a considerable about of money, they informed me that they would need to pull (and possibly replace) the gauge cluster but would/could not guarantee that would fix the issue. They said the cost would be exorbitant.

3. Most concerning is the parasitic battery draw. My beautiful SL has to be jumped after only 2-3 hours. I bought the car in Jan of this year and they informed me that they had just put a new bat in it before it was sold to be (red flag, I know. But the car was so breathtaking that my logical brain evidently quit functioning). PS: I took the car to an autoparts store on the test drive and it threw ZERO codes.

84,000 miles. The car has zero rust and looked as if it was garaged its entire life.

Short of lighting it on fire, can ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME!

 

Can you check to see if your trunk lights are staying on all the time? Perhaps your draw is from that?

 

Ahmed, I have checked the trunk light and its not the culprit.

 

After much deliberation, I decided to take matters into my own hands.

1. Brake lights: Initially, when the brake lights started acting up, I replaced the switch. Unbeknownst to me, my "helper/friend" broke the wires from the top part of the switch to the harness. I assume that in his frustration he just twisted the wires together and called it a day. So, I ended up removing the top part of the brake switch (with the old frayed wires still protruding) and disassembled it completely. After removing the old/original solder with a hairdryer and rewiring the switch to the original wires from the harness.... BOOM! Everything worked like new!

2. Nothing new to note here. I will likely just buy a new cluster and see if that does the trick.

3. As a stop gap measure, I installed a remote battery disconnect. After locking the car after a drive, I just hit the "off" button on the key fob and vica-versa when I approach it. It works perfectly! Resetting the windows and radio each time is a bit of a PITA, but it beats jumping the car every time I have to use it.

 

It’s a beautiful car, that’s for sure. Great that your investing some time to get to the bottom of things.

Have you tried unplugging the cluster and leave it overnight? Plug it back in the morning when you’re ready to start/test the car. If it starts, you’ll know the cluster is the issue, if it doesn’t start, then you’ll know the cluster is not giving you problems.
also try unplugging the CD changed power and fibre optic connections at the deck (not the back) I had an issue with my CD changer not turning off drawing the battery.
Has a mechanic actually tested the fuses for a parasitic draw?

good luck and report back!

 

The gauge cluster is not feed by only one fuse, but some more. The third brake light shares the same fuse with one of these fuses of the gauge cluster. There is an other fuse for it which feeds the interior light amd mirrors, too. So dont touch the gauge cluster but repair the other things around. and take a very close look at your fuses.

 

Very pretty car.

Anything that drains the battery in 2-3 hours shouldn't be too hard to determine.

Remove and replace, in turn, each high amp fuse (15 and above) until the battery doesn't drain. Should take a few days to find the circuit.

Or, get a multimeter, remove the negative battery cable and insert the probes between the negative terminal and the ground. There should be a really high amp draw. Start removing high amp fuses until you find the troublesome circuit.

 

New question: Where can I locate and purchase #1 & #2 clips, attachment points, or whatever they are called? Part number(s)?? My door keeps coming off in my GF's hand and it is fueling her disdain for my R129. ANY help, advice, and/or pointers would be greatly appreciated!! Would it be easier/better to just buy a new-used panel in its entirety?? And, guys, THANK you all so very much for y'all's advice and pointers with regards to figuring out the "quirks and features" of my car, lol!

I assume once I take the panel off I will need to glue or epoxy these "clips" to the door panel. Correct??

 

Hopefully, you still have the slightly yellow plastic seats for the clips that glue to the door panel. If you don't have the seats, you will need another door panel.

The only thing I found that works is Starbright 8200 Marine Adhesive.

Suitable 10mm white inserts can be found at regular car parts stores or MB parts places.

000991639864 and 0119887678

 

Damn.. The seats for the clips are missing and are exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for the guidance though.

 

IMHO probably the most ascetically pleasing mod thus far! No more 1989 F-150 antenna!

 

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm........ no. The R129 debuted in 1989.

 

What did you do with your old antenna?

Dibs!

 

There was some great tips.. clamp on amp meter and pull 1 fuse at a time looking for the amp meter drain to stop off.