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722.622 W5A580 Transmission Service and Upgrade Question. Blue top shift solenoids?
Hello everyone! I have a 1998 SL500 with 117k that is experiencing some shifting issues.
When the transmission is cold, or really anything less than operating temp it exhibits the following symptoms.
1-2 isn’t super smooth but is fairly normal
2-3 slams extremely hard
3-4 shifts rough and flares about 300 rpm
4-5, like 1-2 is fairly normal
During these 2-3 or 3-4 shifts the car will occasionally get stuck in either third or fourth gear, usually (maybe exclusively) third. Turning the car off and back on fixes the issue. This issue also only happens when the transmission is cold.
Fluid Levels are fine, checked with the MB dipstick
I have been doing research on a remedy, I’ve planned to do a conductor plate and do all three control overlap sleeves.
I recently saw a video on FCP euro which included the following services, as well as these blue top solenoids that make shifts smoother and faster. FCP suggests a transmission tune with those solenoids , but will there still be gains even without one? Should I just replace all the solenoids with oem ones?
Since I don’t have a lift or a ton of time to fix this issue, I’d like to address any likely problem areas and rebuild any part of the valve body that will improve performance and longevity in one go.
Considering my issues, what are y’all’s suggestions?
Get the conductor plate kit from fcpeuro with the 5l of atf 134 and the electrical adapter.
Leave the solenoids alone and I wouldn’t bother with the overlap control valve kit. It won’t make a difference. Just get the updated casting (0606) complete sonnax valve body, or if you don’t want to do that, then change only the pressure regulation spring in the valve body.
Look up the torque specifications. The electrical adapter is to only be tightened just a lil bit don’t screw that one up or you’ll have to get a new conductor plate again.
All 5 L of the transmission fluid is to be poured in.
During these 2-3 or 3-4 shifts the car will occasionally get stuck in either third or fourth gear, usually (maybe exclusively) third. Turning the car off and back on fixes the issue.
Fluid Levels are fine, checked with the MB dipstick
It sounds like the speed sensor on the circuit board is broken. The question is not if it will happen, but when. Either the sensor housing is broken or bent, so the distance between the sensor and the sensor wheel is now too large. Then the speed is unknown and the gearbox no longer works. If the gap is still small, shutting down and turning on will reset it. If it is too large, you will need to reset it using Star Diagnosis.
Ive ordered the conductor plate, service kit and the pressure regulator spring and will install next week. I’m expecting the job to take 2 or 3 hours, does that sound about right?
The fluid is pretty dark… maybe even burnt. Not sure what the difference is. Also I ran my MBStar and got these transmission codes below. Also, it gives me an option to see like “transmission fluid quality”, it gave this reading, what does it mean?
Don’t know about those numbers but the fluid temp should be under that category. You’ll need that to verify fluid level after completion of the job.
drive 1 mile then come back home onto a level surface, leave engine on, and plug in star and get to that temperature reading screen.
Shift through all gears a sec in between. Parking brake on and then in N (when in P can’t get temp). Temp needs to be 80c. Put it back to p, then check fluid level still with engine on.
btw, before starting any work, you need to disconnect the battery or the transmission will act crazy upon startup
Don’t know about those numbers but the fluid temp should be under that category. You’ll need that to verify fluid level after completion of the job.
drive 1 mile then come back home onto a level surface, leave engine on, and plug in star and get to that temperature reading screen.
Shift through all gears a sec in between. Parking brake on and then in N (when in P can’t get temp). Temp needs to be 80c. Put it back to p, then check fluid level still with engine on.
btw, before starting any work, you need to disconnect the battery or the transmission will act crazy upon startup
Thank you for the tip about the battery!
Considering the total capacity of the system and I’m only replacing 5 liters… should I do another fluid change later?
I just learned about the FCP Euro parts replacement thing… so I can ship my old fluid and filter back to get a refund if I do it a second time.
There is no reason to disconnect the battery. But what you should do is a complete oil change, and take a look at the transmission control unit behind the footrest passenger side. Open the connector, there will be likely oil inside the wiring loom leading inside the tcu.
Disconnecting the pilot bushing with the battery still connected will cause the check engine light to come on and each gear shift will be very harsh almost like they’re slamming. Been there done that.
I replaced the conductor plate, overlap valve sleeves, pressure regulating spring and put it all back together. After filling it up and trying to drive it won’t go into gear. It will just rev as though it’s in neutral, until the computer realizes something is up and it limits the revs in those gears to around 1k. With my computer I deleted all prior trouble codes and saw no new ones after trying to drive. I also checked all the solenoids and transmission values so it appears all is communicating properly with the computers.
I imagine I didn’t properly put the pin in that yellow plastic shift plunger and will dig into it tomorrow. Would that be yalls first course of action?
Do you leave the ignition on? I did this dozens of times, this never happens to me.
No. But it happened when I had my SL500. No star at the time so I had to disconnect the battery, and all was well again. The second time I did the job, I disconnected the battery beforehand and no problem when I finished.
I recall watching a diy video on the procedure giving this warning as well.
I replaced the conductor plate, overlap valve sleeves, pressure regulating spring and put it all back together. After filling it up and trying to drive it won’t go into gear. It will just rev as though it’s in neutral, until the computer realizes something is up and it limits the revs in those gears to around 1k. With my computer I deleted all prior trouble codes and saw no new ones after trying to drive. I also checked all the solenoids and transmission values so it appears all is communicating properly with the computers.
I imagine I didn’t properly put the pin in that yellow plastic shift plunger and will dig into it tomorrow. Would that be yalls first course of action?
assuming solenoids went back into correct spots, the yellow electrical adapter was pushed in all the way and not overtightened, yes lookintothat.
I recall watching a diy video on the procedure giving this warning as well.
Even WIS does not state that, but for me it is OK, you did not do something wrong if you do so, even if it should be unneccecary.
Originally Posted by Hiscedes
Would that be yalls first course of action?
The transmission oil temperature is switched off by this switch when the gear selector is in P (and N?). So you can see in the star diagnosis whether everything has been installed correctly by looking at the temperature as you shift through the gears. The shift rod bushings are probably broken, there's no harm in checking.
Thanks everyone, checked the fluid with the car running and in neutral, disconnected and reconnected the battery and still nothing.
Drained the fluid, dropped the pan and I observed that the dowel is sitting perfectly in the plastic end of the plunger, has someone cycle through the gears with the car off and all seemed to function normally.
Hey there Hiscedes! It sounds like you've got quite the puzzle with your 1998 SL500. Shifting issues can be a real head-scratcher, but fear not – there's a potential solution on the horizon.
Based on your symptoms, it's great that you're considering the conductor plate and control overlap sleeves. However, given the slam and flare during certain shifts, those blue top solenoids might just be the missing piece to smoother and faster gear changes. While FCP Euro recommends a transmission tune with the solenoids, even without one, you could still see improvements.
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Took it apart and everything seems good and normal. I’m getting a new conductor plate cause that’s the only item I’m uncertain about. Could a faulty conductor plate cause these symptoms?
Just dropped the valve body and installed an AutoZone conductor plate in case my FCP euro one was faulty. Redid everything, checked the shift plunger was in the right spot and used my MBStar to see that there were no new codes, and the gear oil temp is turned off when in park and neutral, and on in drive and reverse. RPM still drops when I put it in gear, either reverse or drive.
One thing I’m wondering… my R/P lock solenoid doesnt make a clicking noise like every other solenoid when I actuate it using the MBStar what does it do and may it be related? Also had a code related to it before I began this job.
I’m considering finding a complete valve body and conductor plate/solenoids from a comparable junk car to swap in. Will that work? If so which cars have an identical valve body?
The fluid temp doesn’t increase at a noticeably faster rate when the car is in reverse or drive than just in park… that would indicate the torque converter isn’t spinning right when in drive or reverse? Or do I not understand something?
I also noticed a clicking sound coming from what is probably the valve body. When the car is in neutral or drive it is clicking quickly and steadily, and when in reverse or drive it clicks slowly but still steadily. Maybe at half the pace. What could that be?
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