I copied and pasted from a thread I posted to, it was too long to re write, this is actually meant for Klaus of Top Hydraulics, but to anyone out there who can help a brotha out.

***UPDATE The technician who worked on it said he disabled it from the roof switch in the dash. Few more days before rain and I give up and send it to Mercedes.***

I hope you're doing well sir, I am writing you today in somewhat desperate need of the assistance of a master tech with these bad boys. So my story goes like this sorry for the detail as a mechanic I find the more the better. I had an issue where the locks in the front of my softtop unlock intermittently, I was told by the only mechanic that I could trust from reviews, and seemed to know these vehicles pretty well that it was the pump. "RIGHT AWAY as a heavy duty mechanic Level 2 Apprentice in school right now learningabout solenoids, relays, switches, and whatnot, so basically perfect timing." I could smell a parts changer. However I stuck to my guns knowing that sometimes master techs know the exact point where it would be going bad. So I gave it a shot replaced the pump found one in good shape and asked them to hold the old one for me to keep for future use. I got a few other things done too at the time woodgrain steering wheel, washer fluid pump, and new instrument cluster plastic cover. Little did I know what I was getting myself into. Little off topic, but when I got the vehicle back after 3 months of waiting for the steering wheel, which was damaged from import, so after receiving the new one and it not fitting the old air bag I had to get that part from the same person who lived in Sweden. Then I get my car back late night right before closing big fear of mine is having an issue after they close. So I test drove it home and sure enough I got a flashing light on my drop top button, very audible and annoying, found my radio non functional, and my dash lights flickered when moved out of the highest setting. Now apparently, and I know this to be true from working on very old pieces of equipment that plastic does not age well. I guess a lot of things broke while getting in there, and although they did what they could, my radio although powers on doesn't play music now, my dash needs to stay on max which is fair as he said the potentiometer carbon up everytime you use it so I imagine is worn and burnt inside, and for the convertible top apparently he DISABLED THE SYSTEM... My dread was reading all these forums and finding out the 95' and newer models did not have the ability to unlock the rear lock latches manually. I found out when my 10mm wrench spread from the effort of trying to open or close either side not a stubby but not a leverage like the real tool so wasn't sure if it was a leverage thing, and finally found some forum about how they can't be unlocked. I was quite devastated to know it has been disabled now, I called and told him and he said he didn't have as much experienceas the mechanic who left for vacation a week ago. So now I have a partially locked car, and the rain season is in here in Vancouver. It is a race against time as I have today and no rain for a few days to see if you can potentially guide me through this nightmare. As I have read about powering the pump solenoid and engaging the locks. Tried and got my pump functional from powering the relay via directly from the battery. But I'm scared to fry anything and just give power to the locks harnesses. Now I need to know how screwed I am if I am or if I can do this. I need to know if I can actuate and unlock these latches from sending power directly from the battery to a harness and perhaps if you know which pin is the unlocking pin in the harness. Also I am on my own too so I also wanted to know if I can leave the hardtop on to do this, or if I need to get help taking it off again and exposing some relay near the roof or side or in the trunk, or find the harness and pin connector that controls those locks or if it works in conjunction with the whole system to power one after powering the other? My biggest trouble is not being able to find a service manual and now I don't want to admit defeat and take it to Mercedes where I would have to complain and tell them it should only take an hour or 2 to diagnose and get this thing locked and not get overcharged. This is my first time where I would not have the expertise to dive in or own a garage to leave it in and slowly tinker with it. I know from reading your other forums that you wanted to know how it all looks so I'll add photos and say the locks in the rear are about 3/4" from the top, and are facing toward the front and are clearly closed not allowing the latches to go further in. I do not have any power at my switch in the cab but do have a functioning pump. I need to check if there is power at the fuse maybe he just remove the pin from one side or the from the switch side. I never got to ask him but I can find out if will help. Driver side unlocking device is firm, with wrench too, passenger side I can move the metal tab up My name is Sergio and I am really looking forward to hearing from you. Sorry I've never been on a forum, and I wasn't sure how to find you and start my own thread, so I hope this isn't a bother, if anyone knows how to tag or add KLAUS of TOP HYDRAULICS that would be solid. Kind of sad thinking if I had checked here it might have been that one sensor, or proximity switch, or something in the front needed adjustment. Just need more guidance no service manual if anyone knows where I can get a full scope technical service manual I'd be greatly appreciative.

Thanks all,
Sergio