SL/R230: help on tire preasure???
#1
help on tire preasure???
Hello every one I just got my SL and I would like to know if any of you guys know the correct tire preasure on the 19 inch wheels???
Attached is a picture of my car , I live in San DIego CA.
Attached is a picture of my car , I live in San DIego CA.
#3
Senior Member
Originally Posted by microboby
Hello every one I just got my SL and I would like to know if any of you guys know the correct tire preasure on the 19 inch wheels???
Attached is a picture of my car , I live in San DIego CA.
Attached is a picture of my car , I live in San DIego CA.
#6
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2000/2004 SLK's, 2004 SL 500, 2009 SL 63 & Porsche 944 Turbo
Tire Pressures
Per Luke at the tire rack:
F=36lbs
R=32lbs
These are different that what MBZ indictes.
F=36lbs
R=32lbs
These are different that what MBZ indictes.
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#8
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SL500 and A-CLASS
Originally Posted by brent951
Per Luke at the tire rack:
F=36lbs
R=32lbs
These are different that what MBZ indictes.
F=36lbs
R=32lbs
These are different that what MBZ indictes.
On my 18" wheels, my car vibrates on any air passed 34 PSI on my front tires.
#9
36 Front and 32 rear seems weird no??? , Sorry if I miss spell but I am Mexican.
Sticker on the car talks about 18 inch wheels not 19" !!!!!! any of you guys really have an SL????
Sticker on the car talks about 18 inch wheels not 19" !!!!!! any of you guys really have an SL????
#11
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Originally Posted by microboby
36 Front and 32 rear seems weird no??? , Sorry if I miss spell but I am Mexican.
Sticker on the car talks about 18 inch wheels not 19" !!!!!! any of you guys really have an SL????
Sticker on the car talks about 18 inch wheels not 19" !!!!!! any of you guys really have an SL????
I thought I owned a SL. I did say in my reply 18" wheels. Just asked your dealer what are the recommended tire pressure for 19".
#12
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2004 SL55, 2005 E500 Wagon
How to figure it out for yourself
From the Advance Auto Pats web site:
"One simple method for finding the right pressure for your vehicle is to draw a chalk line across the tread, then drive a bit and check the line. Even wear is good, while the line fading in the center indicates over-inflation. Worst is when the chalk mark wears off at the outer edges (shoulders) first, meaning that the pressure is too low. Under-inflation lessens the tire's load capacity, can make for squirrelly handling and, most importantly, makes the tire run hotter. Hot tires tend to disintegrate, regardless of who made them. Consequently, it's better to err on the high side, even if ride quality may suffer and the tire wear pattern could be less than optimal. However, do not exceed the maximum pressure as stated on the sidewall—there can indeed be too much of a good thing.
Once the lines wear off evenly, note those pressures for future reference. While the inflation must be identical for both ends of an axle, the front tires in a front-engine car will often require a slightly higher pressure since they usually carry more of the weight of an unladen vehicle."
Rotarynews has a method that's more oriented towards the sporting driver:
"At the track, or on your favorite curvy stretch of road, take some chalk and mark all four of your tires. Make the mark across the tread portion of the tire, around the edge, and about an inch down the sidewall (about where the lettering starts on the side of the tire).
After making a few passes through both left and right hand curves, pull over and check the tires. What you hope to see is all the chalk rubbed off the tread on the tires, and almost all of it still on the sidewalls. How much is almost? If you've only rubbed off one sixteenth of an inch of the chalk on the sidewalls, that's good. If any chalk remains on the outer edges of the tread, you have too much air pressure. If the chalk is rubbed off down to the lettering on your tires, you've got way too little.
That's as close as the chalk method gets. It lets you know that you're not at the extreme end of either spectrum."
If you want more accuracy, you'll need a pyrometer.
Jim
"One simple method for finding the right pressure for your vehicle is to draw a chalk line across the tread, then drive a bit and check the line. Even wear is good, while the line fading in the center indicates over-inflation. Worst is when the chalk mark wears off at the outer edges (shoulders) first, meaning that the pressure is too low. Under-inflation lessens the tire's load capacity, can make for squirrelly handling and, most importantly, makes the tire run hotter. Hot tires tend to disintegrate, regardless of who made them. Consequently, it's better to err on the high side, even if ride quality may suffer and the tire wear pattern could be less than optimal. However, do not exceed the maximum pressure as stated on the sidewall—there can indeed be too much of a good thing.
Once the lines wear off evenly, note those pressures for future reference. While the inflation must be identical for both ends of an axle, the front tires in a front-engine car will often require a slightly higher pressure since they usually carry more of the weight of an unladen vehicle."
Rotarynews has a method that's more oriented towards the sporting driver:
"At the track, or on your favorite curvy stretch of road, take some chalk and mark all four of your tires. Make the mark across the tread portion of the tire, around the edge, and about an inch down the sidewall (about where the lettering starts on the side of the tire).
After making a few passes through both left and right hand curves, pull over and check the tires. What you hope to see is all the chalk rubbed off the tread on the tires, and almost all of it still on the sidewalls. How much is almost? If you've only rubbed off one sixteenth of an inch of the chalk on the sidewalls, that's good. If any chalk remains on the outer edges of the tread, you have too much air pressure. If the chalk is rubbed off down to the lettering on your tires, you've got way too little.
That's as close as the chalk method gets. It lets you know that you're not at the extreme end of either spectrum."
If you want more accuracy, you'll need a pyrometer.
Jim
#13
Super Member
I went through this exercise a few months ago, and literally could NOT get the same answer from any 2 people I asked. Even calling 6 different MB dealers resulted in 6 different answers. I eventually went with the numbers on the door jamb and the ride is fine, with hopefully good tire wear.
#15
Thanks for the replys , So If there is something like a San Diego Meet , Count me in. I am in the Downtown Area.
Sl500 is a very nice car , a bit heavy for my taste coming from an E46 M3 , but speed is really good. Also Fuel consumption is not bad at all. The hardest thing is keeping it clean.
Sl500 is a very nice car , a bit heavy for my taste coming from an E46 M3 , but speed is really good. Also Fuel consumption is not bad at all. The hardest thing is keeping it clean.
#16
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Originally Posted by ricky.agrawal
Also check the tire sidewall it self.
Remember, different dealers might have different OEM tires.
Remember, different dealers might have different OEM tires.
So how do I get a triangle. I feel left out.
#18
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2001 viper rt-10, 2007 SL65
like a tank!
Originally Posted by microboby
Thanks for the replys , So If there is something like a San Diego Meet , Count me in. I am in the Downtown Area.
Sl500 is a very nice car , a bit heavy for my taste coming from an E46 M3 , but speed is really good. Also Fuel consumption is not bad at all. The hardest thing is keeping it clean.
Sl500 is a very nice car , a bit heavy for my taste coming from an E46 M3 , but speed is really good. Also Fuel consumption is not bad at all. The hardest thing is keeping it clean.
#19
Super Member
Guys,
The pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tire has almost nothing to do with the tire pressure you should be running. The sidewall pressure is the maximum cold tire pressure that the tire can handle safely.
The manufacturer recommended tire pressure should be on the gas flap, on the driver's door jamb, and/or the car's manual. That pressure applies regardless of rim diameter, tire size or brand of tire.
Tire pressure is a compromise between ride quality, handling, load capacity, wear, and pothole protection. Mercedes leans toward lower pressures for better ride quality. Many people increase the pressure above OEM for better handling and more even treadwear.
The pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tire has almost nothing to do with the tire pressure you should be running. The sidewall pressure is the maximum cold tire pressure that the tire can handle safely.
The manufacturer recommended tire pressure should be on the gas flap, on the driver's door jamb, and/or the car's manual. That pressure applies regardless of rim diameter, tire size or brand of tire.
Tire pressure is a compromise between ride quality, handling, load capacity, wear, and pothole protection. Mercedes leans toward lower pressures for better ride quality. Many people increase the pressure above OEM for better handling and more even treadwear.