Received the parts kit for my 2007 SL550 and set my computer up next to the car with your instructions. The whole process took about 30 minutes and I'm back in business.

 

@ San56dra - P/N 2307500111 at parts.com for about $40.

Review the beginning of this thread for complete instructions and save yourself a few hundred bucks - good luck!

 

Are the install instructions still available?

 

Is there a tool to separate the limit switch connectors?
Or, does one just cut the cable ties and wrestle the flap...

 

The instructions are at the beginning of this thread (on page1 ), don't cut anything. ... read the instructions

 

I had the same problem with the roof (amongst others).


The kit solved this problem, but it soon broke again. Taking the gearbox apart on the flap motor I noticed that a tooth had sheared off the drive gear from the motor. The gearbox is held together by flimsy plastic lugs so be careful taking it apart - several of mine broke off. The gear is not available as a separate part so had to order a new unit.


Lifting the roof manually in to place, I managed to break off the locator pin on the right side of the roof lock. Its now impossible to manually close the roof lock as the pin triggers a switch in the windscreen frame which releases the hydraulic pressure in the lock. You cant get the pin as separate part so I'm going to try to get one fabricated.


Happy days !

 

problem solve.god bless u

 

My car has the new part installed, but flap still sags, could the arm attached to the flap be bent?

 

Did you have the flap tight against the truck when you tighten it down?
you can email be at butchbroome@Hotmail.com and i'll give you my number if you like. I've done several of these for friends as well as myself.

 

Problem with my 2008 SL550:
While trying to fish something out from under the passenger seat, I had moved it as far back as possible. Unbeknownst to me, my makeup bag was behind the seat, and is now jammed up against the side of the car; I am unable to determine if it actually was overridden and is stuck IN the track or not.
Of course all function of the seat is frozen, and when I started the engine, a sickening feeling hit me as I smelled that distinct odor of an electrical burn. The next time I started the car a "Seat Restraint Malfunction" message appeared.
I'm hoping against hope that I only blew a fuse; and after determining that fuses #9 & #27 are intact, I moved on to check #41 & #42. However, I am having trouble pulling the cover of the passenger side fuse box. I can see that there are two apparent release clips on the outer side of the box and can readily move them, but nothing else wants to lift or move with gentle nudging.
So, Question #1: Am I on the right track?
Question #2: What's the proper way to lift the cover?
Question #3: Any other ideas?

 

You should start a new thread with your question. Your problem with the seat is not really related to the "flap" issue that this thread is about. Make sure you include some details in the thread title and you will increase your chance of getting a response. Instead of saying "Problem with my 2008 SL550" title the thread something like "2008 SL550 Seat Restraint Malfunction". Good luck.

 

Thank You,
Its -10 degrees right now so I'm going to order the parts and wait for it to warm-up.

Many many thanks...

 

hi guys i have a 2006 SL500 90k miles on it, my flaps got out of adjustment and i want to adjust it can you guys give me some info how to adjust and line it up thanks alot

 

Hi ,I need to replace the roof flap arm on my 2004 SL500. Mercedes are quoting me £500 for a full system and say the flap arm doesn't come as a separate part. Basically the cog bolt in the hinge of the arm has sheared off. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

 

I just checked my flaps. They are hanging at least three inches!!! I will order the parts and follow your instructions. Thanks for posting!!!!

 

My SL600 flap was sagging couple inches followed the instructions, fixed it in 20 minutes

 

Just did this flap fix, easy. Once I was done installation, my ABC warning came on when i started car to open roof. Anyone have any input? I only disconnected the right side pin connector on the flap.

Flaps are nice and tight now. Parts were $76.00 cdn at MB dealer.

 

Thanks for this! I found this post after suffering from the drooping flap problem for months and finally deciding to see what could be done about it.

I was able to get the parts (listed on the invoice as "MA230 750 01 11 104B03 SUPPORTING PLAT") delivered from MB Oxford (UK) for £34.27 inclusive of tax and shipping - ordered on Saturday, arrived Wednesday.

The only tools needed are a 10mm socket wrench and a #30 Torx driver.

It's an idea to remove the electrical connector before disassembling the arm, as it is a fairly heavy assembly and you don't want it falling and putting strain on the wires.

Apart from the rather awkward angles you have to work at to avoid the flap fouling the boot/trunk lid, there were only a couple of snags I came across: the cable-actuated gear rack that operates inside the "supporting plate" part that we're trying to replace at one point retreated back towards whatever it is that operates it. It turned out not to matter; once I had everything back together again, there was a creaking noise when I closed the boot/trunk lid for the first time, which I assume was the mechanism straightening itself out, and happily it worked perfectly.

The other problem was that the new "supporting plate" was a very tight fit with the part it mates to. So tight that I wasn't initially able to get it far enough on for it to fit to the arm component. I stripped off a small patch of tape that was stuck on the end of the actuator cable, and used adjustable pliers to apply gentle pressure to get the parts fully together.

But altogether it was a straightforward job. Just half an hour after receiving the parts I had both sides done and the roof working perfectly for the first time in months! Just what's needed in the current UK heatwave!

 

This DIY fix is pretty easy. It's even more easier if you have a friend ( or your Mrs. ) to hold the flap out of the way while you change out the part. Less than 30 minutes to do both sides.

I found out why my ABC light was on when I moved the car. Puddle of oil evident on the pavement. Took is to the stealer and the ABC pump is leaking. $5000, to replace. I haven't picked up the car yet and requested that they give me the leaking pump. Thats one expensive pump at a cost of $3500 cdn.

 

Just did mine today. As Mark mentioned the new part is a very tight fit. I used a small brass hammer and gently tapped it into place.

Flaps are tight on the trunk now and top works perfectly.

Thanks to everyone who contributed.

 

I replaced the flap brackets but apparently damaged the wiring connection. the wire tabs are loose in the plug and not making good contact. is there a replacement terminal or plug?

 

Thanks worked perfectly, was very worried about roof not working

 

NikleinR6, you are the best! Brought my SL550 home Wednesday after a 10 hour drive with the top not moving... did your fix yesterday on my flap and now topless once again! Part not here yet but did the filler trick I saw on a Youtube video. Took me, unexperienced non-mechanic woman, 30 minutes to do...

 

I have the parts on the way to replace and upgrade on the roof flap issue. With mine the flaps are tight but as the trunk lid flips all the way back and as the roof is just getting into the trunk, the passenger side flap drops down by about 1-2" which then disconnects the switches and everything stops. At that point it takes a strong amount of pressure to push it flush and activate the switch. I anticipate that the upgrade to the gear wont be the complete fix as the flaps can be tight.


Any suggestions or experience with the gear releasing a flap during the process vs not being tight throughout the process to be an issue?

 

Ordered these parts today from pelicanparts.com @ $53.00 for the pair. Will do the repair this coming weekend.