SL/R230: 230-690-09-41-9C83 "panel wing" fix
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
230-690-09-41-9C83 "panel wing" fix
Hello everyone. I have a 2003 500SL and have lost both "panel wings". This is a very common problem because the hinges are plastic. My upolstery guy made me two "wings" with tabs on both ends. He then matched the leather perfectly. $400 vs $1,200. Have pictures if anyone is interested. Cheers.
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SeTabb (08-04-2020)
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barose (01-16-2022)
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
I started by taking some measurements as to the location of the axis (relative to the edge of the "axle" ).
then found some 3/32 id (.125 OD) brass tubing, a piece of 2mm stainless rod (from mcmaster carr), and some "hardmann" brand high-peel strength epoxy (stock # 04007 in orange packet).
I put a .125 round carbide burr in a dremel and removed sufficient material such that I could epoxy the short pieces of brass tubing into the flap-holder (large piece mounted in rear-deck of car).
I then proceeded to remove material from flap(s) so that I could attach the longer pieces of tubing so that when done, the new "axle" (or hinge pin) would be located in the same place (as they were originally) relative to the parts of the "hinge".
I kept referring back to my drawing(s) for axis location.
worth noting, when creating and installing the brass pieces, I made ever effort to duplicate the original plastic elements they were replacing so that I could re-use the factory spring as it was desinged to be used. HOWEVER, when I went to assemble it, I found it was very difficult to "thread the needle" with the spring in place AND , I found that the flaps move so freely now, they do fine without the springs. If I ever felt they were needed, I would likely go back and use softer/simpler springs.
here are a few pics (I wish the pics were better, sorry).
Chris
P.S.
turned out to be a bit of work (but can be done without removing the factory rear-deck pieces).
... If the solution alluded to by the OP is satisfactory, the price he mentioned is not out of line since it saves you the trouble (and most of the cost) of removing and replacing the factory rear-deck pieces.
then found some 3/32 id (.125 OD) brass tubing, a piece of 2mm stainless rod (from mcmaster carr), and some "hardmann" brand high-peel strength epoxy (stock # 04007 in orange packet).
I put a .125 round carbide burr in a dremel and removed sufficient material such that I could epoxy the short pieces of brass tubing into the flap-holder (large piece mounted in rear-deck of car).
I then proceeded to remove material from flap(s) so that I could attach the longer pieces of tubing so that when done, the new "axle" (or hinge pin) would be located in the same place (as they were originally) relative to the parts of the "hinge".
I kept referring back to my drawing(s) for axis location.
worth noting, when creating and installing the brass pieces, I made ever effort to duplicate the original plastic elements they were replacing so that I could re-use the factory spring as it was desinged to be used. HOWEVER, when I went to assemble it, I found it was very difficult to "thread the needle" with the spring in place AND , I found that the flaps move so freely now, they do fine without the springs. If I ever felt they were needed, I would likely go back and use softer/simpler springs.
here are a few pics (I wish the pics were better, sorry).
Chris
P.S.
turned out to be a bit of work (but can be done without removing the factory rear-deck pieces).
... If the solution alluded to by the OP is satisfactory, the price he mentioned is not out of line since it saves you the trouble (and most of the cost) of removing and replacing the factory rear-deck pieces.
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dRockSL55 (09-16-2019)
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Hey Chris. Excellent fix...and looks very nice!
However, my wing must have flown off on the freeway. I will attach some pictures of my replacement "wing". Also...apparently it is very easy to match your original interior color. If anyone would like my upolstery guy's contact...info just let me know. Jim
However, my wing must have flown off on the freeway. I will attach some pictures of my replacement "wing". Also...apparently it is very easy to match your original interior color. If anyone would like my upolstery guy's contact...info just let me know. Jim
Last edited by je4191; 10-24-2013 at 07:05 PM.
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Frederick NL (06-14-2022)
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey Chris. Excellent fix...and looks very nice!
However, my wing must have flown off on the freeway. I will attach some pictures of my replacement "wing". Also...apparently it is very easy to match your original interior color. If anyone would like my upolstery guy's contact...info just let me know. Jim
However, my wing must have flown off on the freeway. I will attach some pictures of my replacement "wing". Also...apparently it is very easy to match your original interior color. If anyone would like my upolstery guy's contact...info just let me know. Jim
I got lucky, both of mine ended up in the trunk when they finally became detached.
I must say that from your photo, your upholstery guy matched the color BETTER than mercedes did on my car (look at my 3rd picture in my first post of this thread ... that is the original match, or lack there of, that came on my SL55 ... yours appears to be much better : )
In any case, cant argue with your success ... yours seems like a reasonable solution.
Cheers,
Chris
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
worth noting, when creating and installing the brass pieces, I made ever effort to duplicate the original plastic elements they were replacing so that I could re-use the factory spring as it was designed to be used. HOWEVER, when I went to assemble it, I found it was very difficult to "thread the needle" with the spring in place AND , I found that the flaps move so freely now, they do fine without the springs. If I ever felt they were needed, I would likely go back and use softer/simpler springs.
noticed this morning while driving quickly (85 or so) with the top down and all windows up that the flaps (wings) fly .... oops. It would seem that the air pressure above is (enough) lower than the air pressure in the trunk to elevate the flaps under these conditions .... SO gonna re-fit the original springs (or some other springs) back in to hold the flaps down.
Chris
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
edit/update
noticed this morning while driving quickly (85 or so) with the top down and all windows up that the flaps (wings) fly .... oops. It would seem that the air pressure above is (enough) lower than the air pressure in the trunk to elevate the flaps under these conditions .... SO gonna re-fit the original springs (or some other springs) back in to hold the flaps down.
Chris
noticed this morning while driving quickly (85 or so) with the top down and all windows up that the flaps (wings) fly .... oops. It would seem that the air pressure above is (enough) lower than the air pressure in the trunk to elevate the flaps under these conditions .... SO gonna re-fit the original springs (or some other springs) back in to hold the flaps down.
Chris
the second picture is shot in a mirror to show how the axle and return spring are located/retained
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dRockSL55 (09-16-2019)
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Final update (I hope : )
I changed out the CD changer yesterday which required removing a large percentage of the rear interior pieces.
after removing the interior panels (L & R) below the quarter windows, I noticed how simple it is to remove the rear flap panels (230-690-09-41-9C83, etc) . So, I took one out to better illustrate my final solution (pics below).
In the process, noting how simple these are to remove and replace (and wondering why I didn't remove them to repair them) ... I check the price(s) at oediscount parts .... $277 each (in stock in black, gray and beige).
buying new ones seems like a good way to go as well ... they factory ones don't last forever, but what does. My redone ones will likely outlive the rest of the car, but if I have another SL that needs them, I may just buy new ones.
my $.02
Cheers,
Chris
I changed out the CD changer yesterday which required removing a large percentage of the rear interior pieces.
after removing the interior panels (L & R) below the quarter windows, I noticed how simple it is to remove the rear flap panels (230-690-09-41-9C83, etc) . So, I took one out to better illustrate my final solution (pics below).
In the process, noting how simple these are to remove and replace (and wondering why I didn't remove them to repair them) ... I check the price(s) at oediscount parts .... $277 each (in stock in black, gray and beige).
buying new ones seems like a good way to go as well ... they factory ones don't last forever, but what does. My redone ones will likely outlive the rest of the car, but if I have another SL that needs them, I may just buy new ones.
my $.02
Cheers,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 11-18-2013 at 01:41 PM.
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Final update (I hope : )
I changed out the CD changer yesterday which required removing a large percentage of the rear interior pieces.
after removing the interior panels (L & R) below the quarter windows, I noticed how simple it is to remove the rear flap panels (230-690-09-41-9C83, etc) . So, I took one out to better illustrate my final solution (pics below).
In the process, noting how simple these are to remove and replace (and wondering why I didn't remove them to repair them) ... I check the price(s) at oediscount parts .... $277 each (in stock in black, gray and beige).
buying new ones seems like a good way to go as well ... they factory ones don't last forever, but what does. My redone ones will likely outlive the rest of the car, but if I have another SL that needs them, I may just buy new ones.
my $.02
Cheers,
Chris
I changed out the CD changer yesterday which required removing a large percentage of the rear interior pieces.
after removing the interior panels (L & R) below the quarter windows, I noticed how simple it is to remove the rear flap panels (230-690-09-41-9C83, etc) . So, I took one out to better illustrate my final solution (pics below).
In the process, noting how simple these are to remove and replace (and wondering why I didn't remove them to repair them) ... I check the price(s) at oediscount parts .... $277 each (in stock in black, gray and beige).
buying new ones seems like a good way to go as well ... they factory ones don't last forever, but what does. My redone ones will likely outlive the rest of the car, but if I have another SL that needs them, I may just buy new ones.
my $.02
Cheers,
Chris
#12
230-690-09-41-9C83 "panel wing" fix
How do you remove the Panel wing cover " 230-690-09-41-9C83 " itself? I've removed the four torque screws (total of 6), but the panel is still sits tight. There seems to be a panel plug under the rear part of the wing, not sure how to pull it out.... are there other panel plugs holding it down? I'm trying to pull the cover off to replace the broken hinge that the flap spring attaches to. Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Thanks! - Jim
#13
How do you remove the Panel wing cover " 230-690-09-41-9C83 " itself? I've removed the four torque screws (total of 6), but the panel is still sits tight. There seems to be a panel plug under the rear part of the wing, not sure how to pull it out.... are there other panel plugs holding it down? I'm trying to pull the cover off to replace the broken hinge that the flap spring attaches to. Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Thanks! - Jim
This is my first post. I purchased a beautiful 2003 SL500 a year ago with 8,200 miles. The hinge on the flap that's part of the driver's panel wing cover broke. I'm considering replacing the the cover myself, and have the same question as Jim:
Can someone explain the procedure for removing this?
Mark
#14
MBworld Guru
Here's the WIS doc:
http://benzbits.com/R230/HingeTrimPanel.pdf
I think it is missing one step, though. There is a small Torx screw on the rear edge of the panel. You have to open the trunk to access it. Note the panel is slotted where bolt (4) attaches, so you have some adjustment to make it flush with the adjacent panels.
http://benzbits.com/R230/HingeTrimPanel.pdf
I think it is missing one step, though. There is a small Torx screw on the rear edge of the panel. You have to open the trunk to access it. Note the panel is slotted where bolt (4) attaches, so you have some adjustment to make it flush with the adjacent panels.
#15
Thanks Rodney!
And thank you for making me aware of your site, benzbits.com . It looks like it has a lot of useful information.
For those of us not local to you in Birmingham, are you available for hire for remote consultations? Either via phone or email?
And thank you for making me aware of your site, benzbits.com . It looks like it has a lot of useful information.
For those of us not local to you in Birmingham, are you available for hire for remote consultations? Either via phone or email?
#17
PanelWings Missing
Hello everyone. I have a 2003 500SL and have lost both "panel wings". This is a very common problem because the hinges are plastic. My upolstery guy made me two "wings" with tabs on both ends. He then matched the leather perfectly. $400 vs $1,200. Have pictures if anyone is interested. Cheers.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by SeTabb; 07-29-2020 at 12:29 PM. Reason: adding request
#19
#20
same problem
Hello everyone. I have a 2003 500SL and have lost both "panel wings". This is a very common problem because the hinges are plastic. My upolstery guy made me two "wings" with tabs on both ends. He then matched the leather perfectly. $400 vs $1,200. Have pictures if anyone is interested. Cheers.
i have a 2005 SL55 AMG- same issue... can he make them for me
how did it happen on your car?
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
YES those panels are very easy to remove. There's the obvious:
- remove the dull silver contraption at the front
- remove the single torx (I think) at the rear
- after you snap out the two plugs by pulling up you can move the part a few mm's back and forth. Feels like it's gotta come out, but it doesn't. You are fighting an 8mm nut, about in the middle, that secures a plastic fork which has some play because it's base sits in a 'spacious' slot. A ratchet wrench with a socket does the job, release the nut just a bit. Better of course to loosen the nut first and then pull the fixed plugs.
- remove the dull silver contraption at the front
- remove the single torx (I think) at the rear
- after you snap out the two plugs by pulling up you can move the part a few mm's back and forth. Feels like it's gotta come out, but it doesn't. You are fighting an 8mm nut, about in the middle, that secures a plastic fork which has some play because it's base sits in a 'spacious' slot. A ratchet wrench with a socket does the job, release the nut just a bit. Better of course to loosen the nut first and then pull the fixed plugs.
Last edited by Frederick NL; 06-14-2022 at 05:04 PM.
#22
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2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Here is the 'fork', outlined on a photo stolen from Chris. I found out the hard way, thinking I was probably the only one on the forum not knowing about it.
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