SL/R230: Ignition won't turn
02-26-2014, 07:59 PM
#1
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"2003" SL500 and E-320
Ignition won't turn
Again after storing the car in cold weather garage I found that the ignition won't turn. After watching several videos' I insert and re-insert the key over a dozen times and the key finally turns. Sometimes it starts the car and sometimes I have to keep turning till it starts. I also, get a chip card not recognized. I've changed all the batteries in the key fob and the chip card and still nothing. Get green single door on one card and green light on double door card key. Any ideas?
Also, the climate control is out is there a fuse for this climate control I should check??? Any help appreciated
Also, the climate control is out is there a fuse for this climate control I should check??? Any help appreciated
02-26-2014, 10:17 PM
#2
Multiple devices that won't turn on/fail are symptoms of a low accessory battery. If the car has been in storage, what provisions did you make to keep the batteries charged? I'd start there.
02-26-2014, 10:27 PM
#3
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"2003" SL500 and E-320
diablo2112, thanks for the reply. I have a c-tek 7200 battery charger on the accessory battery and it is fully charged. The climate control module is completely out and I'm not sure where to check the fuse on that. The starter batter is also charged. I was thinking a reset on the rear battery by disconnecting the neg. post and hope everything resets. The control module I'm hoping it is a fuse.
02-26-2014, 11:06 PM
#4
With the R230, it's more complex than discrete circuits on a fuse. There's multiple computer networks in the car (called the CAN bus) including buses for engine management (hi speed CAN-C) and accessories (low speed CAN-B). It's hard to diagnose your issues remotely without more info. Perhaps your CAN bus controller isn't restarting or is flaky. If you don't track this down yourself, my next step would be a good independent mechanic that can read the codes from the various CAN buses and see what's going on. Sorry this isn't of more help, I feel for you with this problem.
02-27-2014, 12:10 AM
#5
Key Won't Turn
The operation of the Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS) with key fob is simple. When you insert the fob into the EIS the fob transmits an infrared signal. If the key is correct for the car, the EIS releases the steering wheel and allows the key to turn.
Possible problems are: (1) faulty key fob, (2) faulty EIS, (3) lack of power to the EIS. The batteries in the fob can not be an issue, because while inserted the fob's infrared signal is inductively powered by the EIS.
The EIS requires one of the car's two batteries to have an adequate charge in order to function. You have mentioned both your batteries are good. There is a fuse for the EIS in the passenger foot well and another in the trunk. Since your EIS works on occasion, I would suppose these fuses are also good.
So assuming the EIS is powered, I believe the EIS or the key fob has to be your problem. It is quick and simple to determine the faulty component with a Chinese-cloned SDS which can be had for around $300; without SDS or an equivalent system determination is practically impossible.
A new EIS is expensive. There are companies that offer inexpensive repairs including this one here.
Somewhere I read that a faulty EIS is typically the result of a failed IC chip -- an L9338MD available here.
The climate controller is powered from one of the 10-amp fuses in the left-front fuse box located in the engine compartment.
Possible problems are: (1) faulty key fob, (2) faulty EIS, (3) lack of power to the EIS. The batteries in the fob can not be an issue, because while inserted the fob's infrared signal is inductively powered by the EIS.
The EIS requires one of the car's two batteries to have an adequate charge in order to function. You have mentioned both your batteries are good. There is a fuse for the EIS in the passenger foot well and another in the trunk. Since your EIS works on occasion, I would suppose these fuses are also good.
So assuming the EIS is powered, I believe the EIS or the key fob has to be your problem. It is quick and simple to determine the faulty component with a Chinese-cloned SDS which can be had for around $300; without SDS or an equivalent system determination is practically impossible.
A new EIS is expensive. There are companies that offer inexpensive repairs including this one here.
Somewhere I read that a faulty EIS is typically the result of a failed IC chip -- an L9338MD available here.
The climate controller is powered from one of the 10-amp fuses in the left-front fuse box located in the engine compartment.
Last edited by seven_out; 02-27-2014 at 12:37 AM.
02-28-2014, 10:15 AM
#6
Don't be angry mate, I had this problem. I had my car not turning on for more than 5 times and It was really embarrassing to call the insurance to take the car to the workshop everytime.
The problem was, water leaked into the ECU plugs. Mission was accomplished by Autodynamics Lebanon, they cleaned the ECU plugs using contact cleaner. They saved me since that time.
The problem was, water leaked into the ECU plugs. Mission was accomplished by Autodynamics Lebanon, they cleaned the ECU plugs using contact cleaner. They saved me since that time.
02-28-2014, 12:11 PM
#7
Member
Don't be angry mate, I had this problem. I had my car not turning on for more than 5 times and It was really embarrassing to call the insurance to take the car to the workshop everytime.
The problem was, water leaked into the ECU plugs. Mission was accomplished by Autodynamics Lebanon, they cleaned the ECU plugs using contact cleaner. They saved me since that time.
The problem was, water leaked into the ECU plugs. Mission was accomplished by Autodynamics Lebanon, they cleaned the ECU plugs using contact cleaner. They saved me since that time.
At least it use to be.
Cheers.
