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SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

headlight washer problem

 
Old 10-31-2016, 05:56 PM
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2003 sl 500
headlight washer problem

I had my headlight washer on for a bit and now I notice a leak from the far right front which is washer fluid. Washers pop out and work fine still but leak will not stop with car off. I haven't gotten under it yet but any ideas what to look for appreciated. Leak does appear to be very far forward near the front bumper. Never leaked a drop till I tried it today just to test it. Does anyone have a schematic of the system they could post? I sure hope I can reach any hoses. Plenty of pump pressure but over time now all the water has leaked out and the warning lamp for low fluid is on.

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Last edited by moretech; 10-31-2016 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:29 PM
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Does this help?

Bob
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Headlamp washer.pdf (75.6 KB, 1000 views)
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:41 PM
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oh, YES! I just saw it above. It does seem like my case where the nozzle is just slipped into a six finger assembly. I think I can skip pulling the bumper!!

thanks much
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:49 PM
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Looking closely now at the nozzle there may be a bolt for what appears to be a bracket near the top of the assembly. Right now my indy thinks the check valve inside the nozzle is stuck open so I am using the system to see if enough on/off cycles may unstick the check valve.

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Old 11-01-2016, 05:08 PM
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After shining a bright light in the "trap door" there indeed is a bolt near the assembly top.
Well need to think a bit further.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:46 AM
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Is there is description for part 280 in the diagram? Could it be a check control valve to limit water flow when pump is off? It seems to me such a part could solve my problem by limiting leakage at the top of the nozzle .
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Last edited by moretech; 11-03-2016 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:45 PM
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UPDATE:
Well with some real research this problem is solved cheaply. What was needed was some calculations and checking with several industrial supply companies for a check valve with a suitable cracking pressure. This style valve inhibits forward flow and backward flow of fluid. The trick is how much cracking pressure do you need to stop downflow from the reservoir and yet not inhibit nozzle operation and is such a valve available of suitable psi cracking pressure. The answer I had calculated was about a 0.7 to 0.8 psi check valve cracking pressure which I could not find built on a one off basis. But did find a 1 psi cracking pressure valve. This one #22173 from US Plastics did the job. I inserted it by cutting into line 270 shown in the diagram above and I put on two small worm gear hose clamps due to the high pressure of the system. The high pressure of the pump overcomes the 1 psi cracking pressure of the valve easily. System works fine with one small caveat. Nozzles will slowly, but completely retract as water leaks from the broken seals of the nozzles but NOT from the reservoir. Retraction may take a few minutes but finally they completely retract. Apparently there is a two way valve in the nozzle assembly allowing flow both ways to quickly open and close it. The check valve completely stops any back flow which causes the slow retraction of the nozzles. But this approach still does the job and for me solves the problem well enough rather than buy 2 new nozzle assemblies near $112 apiece. I hope this may help someone else with leaky nozzles. If you only have one leaky nozzle this may not work. The non leaker may stay up! You can access the line quickly by removing just the small far right side lower trim panel.

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Last edited by moretech; 11-21-2016 at 02:04 PM. Reason: clarify some things
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Old 11-23-2016, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by moretech View Post
If you only have one leaky nozzle this may not work. The non leaker may stay up!

moretech
Why not install the check valve next to the leakier only then?
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Old 11-24-2016, 08:49 PM
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That should work fine!! good solution! thanks.

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Old 02-11-2018, 11:07 AM
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My SL550 started leaking yesterday from the top of the headlight water pressure cylinder on the passenger side. I could not figure out how to remove it. It goes into an aluminum layered box that I could remove the bolts holding it in and get it loose but how do you detach it from the panel that opens? It is right below the headlight, but I also could not figure out how to remove the headlight assembly either
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Old 02-11-2018, 01:40 PM
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Brian

No direct knowledge to share. Hopefully someone can chime in with actual experience. I'm attaching the WIS instructions. Looks to be fairly easy, detach fender liner and front bumper then pull out for access.
If you decide to DIY, be sure to add any shortcuts or tips in a followup post.

Good luck,

Bob
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Old 02-11-2018, 03:16 PM
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Yes you must pull the bumper to do the job. They then can come out from above. You might think of using my check valve solution putting it in the line to the offensive value. Mine work fine with both valves shot, just takes a few minutes for them to retract but I do not lose washer fluid. If you pull the bumper I'd do both valves as the other one may go soon and you do not want to do the job twice. Both mine went out with the same squirt.

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Old 02-11-2018, 04:12 PM
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Thanks for the info, moretech, I appreciate it!! I will try your method first, removing the bumper seems like a lot of work.

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Old 02-11-2018, 04:41 PM
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US plastics still makes that valve, $7 . If other side fails later just move valve to line #270 in diagram from "mercy-me" above..
all the best to you on the repair.
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