LOL! That reminds me of my ML320 where the entire front suspension, steering system and engine mounts were replace for a groaning noise when turning when it was damp outside. It turned out to be a loose hood latch spring. Mine was all warranty work, so no argument about payment. But back then, my dealer did not cover loaners - they offered $35/day Enterprise on site, and not MBZ cars! I would always escalate my issue and get them to pay the rental fees. I think I drove one of "everything" during that time.

 

if you're going to diy work on this car, invest in a STAR system. many systems require it in order for the work to be done (for instance brake fluid flush). it is very helpful in figuring out situations like this. you could hook the thing up and see if exactly what the pump pressure is doing while driving with one. throwing money and parts at ABC is foolish without this tool. if your car is over 10 years old likely all 4 accumulators are bad, going bad, or are about to go bad so replace them as prevent maint.

 

hose and strut replaced....still get the code but I did not expect it to fix the issue as I think its the pump. I will take it to check pressure

My symptoms

*Car goes up and down when cold no code at first: seems slow but I have no reference to verify that.

*Code ABC Visit workshop comes on once it warms up.....pops up once resets every start. Comes up quicker when warm.

Car stops going up and down once the code comes on and system warms ups

 

Can add fluid overflowing from reservoir

 

again, get a STAR & replace all 4 accumulators.

 

Going to take it in to get the pump pressure reading....someone posted that the car wont produce specific codes until you get the red error message?

 

that is 100% false. Every blue message logs a specific code.

 

also keep in mind low pressure could be due to accumulators, leaking hose or bad pump. If your fluid overflowed your accumulators are bad & have lost their nitrogen charge.

 

Had the car tested 115 bar was the reading and rear valve body error.

Could be pump or accumulator or both



Keep getting a P0300 code also, star showed left bank, but car runs fine....coil packs rebuilt last year...seems to me like the car would run like crap if the coil was bad. maybe a plug? They were changed last year.

 

115 bar is very low. it should be close to 200 at idle. as i've already posted twice, you should replace all 4 accumulators as regular maintenance given the age of the vehicle and the fact that your fluid reservoir overflowed, which is a classic symptom of that problem. It needs done even if you weren't having problems. I have an extra of the one that goes on the pressure relief valve brand new. PM me with an offer. I'd start with the accumulators b/c not only do they need replaced just as regular maintenance, but also because it is much cheaper than doing the pump. It will also increase the service life of the hoses and pump as they smooth out pressure spikes and pulsation.

The p0300 code for multiple misfire would be very rare on a v8 car if it were an ignition problem given that each cylinder has their own coil pack. Is your car a v8 or v12 (didn't see you ever posted what model)? If its a v8 your problem is likely fuel related with either a sticking injector or some sort of blockage in the rail or fuel diaphragm at the rear of the fuel rails. If it is v12 then it would make more sense. Those packs are notorious for going back, especially when put under more stress from a tune. Bad packs can exhibit all sorts of weird symptoms. For instance, on my 06 DTS I've had a couple individual coil packs go bad in the last couple of years and they only have shown symptoms occasionally at idle when hot and the car in gear (the car will every once in a while stumble while at a stoplight). Running full throttle the coils worked fine and when cold they worked fine.

Rather than rebuilding the coil packs I'd suggest going to a local autoparts store like advance auto parts, auto zone, etc. as their coil packs will be about the same or less than OEM replacements and also come with a lifetime warranty instead of just the 12mo/12k miles MB warranty.

What is the rear valve block error? If it is strut moves even though locking valve enabled then you will need to take the valve block out, clean it, and put on new orings. That or buy a rebuilt one (that's all they do when they rebuild them) or buy a new one, which will require also replacing 2 of the hoses since the current block design has a different hose hookup location and requires use of the new hose design for 2 of the hoses (fwiw the new block on the front is interchangeable with the old design and does not require changing hoses).

 

I have the V12

Last year when the coils went it seemed everyone was out of stock at anything under dealer cost so I went rebuilt......now I see there are some lower cost new units out there for sale.


I have already rebuilt the rear block its holding pressure when it sits. I ordered new accumulators; however at 115 bar I have a feeling I will be doing the pump too.

Its too bad, I enjoyed driving this car, a local mechanic who sells European imports might come by and look at it to buy outright. Its hard to keep this car when I can go out and jump into one of my vettes and its starts every time and no hassles......even my 90 ZR-1 with 530hp(605 with NOS) never gives me problems that's with 149K on the chassis

 

Your pressure is entirely too low, of course, but assuming the vehicle was at idle the accumulators have absolutely nothing to do with this!

 

these cars can get expensive in a hurry and have a lot of complex systems that seem to have reliability issues. I am a GM guy too and it is quite the sticker shock for sure. In the last 2 years I've dumped close to 10k in upgrades, maintenance, & fixes on my 03 SL55 that I paid 20k for & that is with me providing the majority of the labor. If I could sell it for what I had in it right now I would, but know there is no chance that can happen. These cars dig you deeper and deeper into a hole that is impossible to get out of. If you continue to drive it to get the value back out of all the money you spent there is always the chance that another expensive repair is necessary digging you further into a hole.

As an FYI that v12 can get mighty expensive mighty fast. The motor mounts are 20-25 hour jobs as engine removal is required. If you have the 65 the rotors are also near 1k each.

 

Started the ABC pump swap today.....got the bolts out in pretty short order hoses and swap tomorrow......

 

ABC Pump Banjo is not playing nice.....wont turn. I am going to remove the thrust arm to try and get a straight shot from below. Of course the Trust arm is on like an SOB too.....

 

You only need to drop engine on the real early v12 that don't have the plate on top. For whatever reason labor guide still shows some 2005 models near 18 hours but they can be done in an hour.

 

So got the control arm(thrust) off, it gave me a direct shot to the banjo bolt, my ratchet busted breaking it loose but it came off.......next weekend reassembly.


To do list
*New accumulators
*Rear Pads
*Figure out P0300 misfire

But lets get past the ABC pump install first....

 

You sure are having a tough time with repairs. Chin up , the drive time behind the wheel will make it all worthwhile.
I had my own bit of bad luck after a great Sunday drive. I sheared off the hydraulic cylinder pin that lifts the trunk after it popped up the lid. Stopped at a restaurant and I couldn't close the trunk. Luckily I had some spare zip ties in the trunk. The pin was $1.85.
Keep working at it. The struggle is worth it

 

So getting ready to start reinstall....I don't see any crush washers on the lines that the banjo bolt goes through, just O-rings....and it does not appear that there is anything between where the two fittings mate???? Correct....or did something fall off that I didn't see?

 

Its just o rings......got the banjo bolt threaded in no time

 

Well here is the current situation

*ABC Pump replaced with remaned unit
*all Accumulators/Dampners Replaced
*rear block rebuild

Was still getting ABC code(Blue visit work shop)....then yesterday in the 90 degree heat code the RED drive carefully. Got home no leaks and car was still up.

The vehicle does not move up and down quickly and like with my old pump it tends to get slower with more heat.

I drove it today....red code came on but only when I was at a stop; clears on restart and does not come back. Also didn't come on when I stayed in neutral at a stop and held the revs at 1200

I am thinking its my reman pump....but will try to get the car hooked up to STAR next week

 

you need proper diagnostics done by somebody familiar with the system.

That doesn't mean hooking up to an SDS that some hobbyist owns either.

 

C1525-064(5525-064) System Pressure too low

C1526-016 (5526-016) Malfunction in Pressure Supply

 

So what was the fix for those codes?

 

Bad pump Bad Pump Bad Pump