SL/R230: RT front of car drooping ABC front valve block
#1
RT front of car drooping ABC front valve block
I have 2004 SL 600 where the right front is drooping. Anybody know where I can get a reasonable used one of these? I will rebuild. Also how tough to R & R myself. Thanks
Last edited by ScottFlyHalf; 11-29-2017 at 06:55 PM. Reason: no one reading
#2
can find on ebay, used for about $350, and one of our members I believe can rebuild them also. Lots of threads on this, not the worst job but a bit messy. If you do it yourself be sure and mark all lines and connections (electrical) with colored tape. YOU DO NOT want to get anything reversed on the order. O rings for this repair available on ebay. This is more of a nuisance problem than serious as mine sags some over a few days but is a real problem if when driving the whole front end goes up and down. Your problem is in the short valve, it is the long valve if the whole car goes up and down when DRIVEN. keep us posted!
moretech
moretech
Last edited by moretech; 12-01-2017 at 05:33 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ScottFlyHalf (12-02-2017)
#3
Banned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,982
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
Two Rodeo routines with a filter change and/or flushing the ABC hydraulic oil and renewing it are typical remedies for addressing this problem. Replacing or rebuilding the valve block is rarely if ever necessary.
#5
valve block leeking
My mechanic flushed and then drrained the fluid and then removed the valve block. I got it and replaced the seals, they really needed it, some were torn, some just mashed and there was quite a bit of junk just in the valve block. This had been messed with before as there were no clips and the seals were green, like the replacement seals, not black like original. There was at least one missing spacer, from what I could tell, so I used an old seal to try and replace that spacer. It mostly went back together okay.. one was tough to get back in (one of the bigger ones with 4 seals) Took back to my mechanic to put back in the car. Worked great for about 5 days. now drooping again.
Reason I did it this way. $499 for a rebuild valve block $125 to have mine rebuilt but days on the lift so no go with my mechanic $20 for the kit
This time. I bought a used one for $250 and another kit for $20. I'm going to rebuild the used one and then need to get it in the car.
Reason I did it this way. $499 for a rebuild valve block $125 to have mine rebuilt but days on the lift so no go with my mechanic $20 for the kit
This time. I bought a used one for $250 and another kit for $20. I'm going to rebuild the used one and then need to get it in the car.
#7
Banned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,982
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
In '08 I used Rodeo routines and a filter change to address my vehicle sagging at the right-front wheel. My recollection is that there was an immediate improvement, but over time it gradually worsened. In '14 I decided to flush and replace the fluid, and 3-1/2 years later it rarely sags -- even if left idle for a week.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 439
Likes: 46
From: Europe, but from Norway
89 SL500 Silver ,97 SL500 Carlsson 04 Mercedes SL55 AMG , 07 Mercedes SL55 AMG convertedBlack series
try this solution first, get the 3 prosent Hydraulic leak stopper from this company http://www.qmiitw.com/QMI_Engine.html it will expand the seals by 3 prosent, and make the system tight. if that not work, you have a mecanical failure. same time, order teflon treatment your engine and gearbox . and powersteering. this is gold stuff. saved me change of 2 front shocks 7 years ago, sold the car and new owner say all is very good.