Oboingo

I was looking for an SL a few years ago and they used to say 2007s and 2008s were more reliable, but those were out of my price range. Now I'm back in the market for a car, and it looks like there are actually a lot of problem areas for those years too, and I even see problems on newer years. My budget could probably go up to a 2011. Are any years reliable? I had a BMW that was constantly in the shop and it was a total PITA. The SL looks like such an awesome car, but I really don't want something that is always in the shop. I'd say an average of 1 repair per year would be OK. What do you guys think?

Ghostty

Welcome to the forum!

That's a very interesting question How reliable is a car? As reliable as any car. You take care of it - it will serve you good time. Just read on the mileage post (click here) - cars with 100k+ miles, 200k+ miles with no major breakdowns, just regular maintenance. If you can get a car with good history - doesn't really matter the year. These cars are all about regular maintenance. my experience so far with the car that i have - 3 years in and had to replace the EIS module.

Also keep in mind that on forums most of the time people post their problems. When everything is good - they don't post as often 2003-2004 models are older - thus more maintenance might be on the schedule soon, 2009-2011 newer - thus less maintenance required. All boils down to price and maintenance history. Just like any other car.

Regards.

Rudeney

There were changes to the ABC system for MY2007, and then I think again for MY2009. Those modifications were supposed to make the system more reliable, but that remains to be seen. There were some changes introduced for MY2009 that did not improve reliability, but may make those later models more attractive. They added AirScarf (a heater system in the headrest), redesigned the front end to look more modern, and updated the infortainment system with built-in Bluetooth hands-free calling, iPod connectivity, and a hard drive based NAV system that also stores music.

moretech

I started with a 35000 mile 2003 sl500 and now have 44500 miles on it. Previously had a slk 230 car. Mostly routine maintenance it needed a pulsation dampener, both seat belt pretensioners (SRS headache) and the plastic shifter lever replaced. Trunk lock problem was an epoxy job works great still. Personally think the 5 spd is a good trans and the '03 is a bit easier to work on. Always go for low mileage. Really feel the SL is an underrated car it is but ABC headaches have lowered the price a lot. In my case electrical problems except for the SRS light are none. Mechanical seems to be more of a headache. Motor, tranny, drive train and ride are great. Smooth running engine. Good luck, welcome to the forum.

moretech

pfarah77

I wouldn't consider the R230 a reliable car when compared to a Toyota or Honda but it sure beats driving one of them! They definitely have a higher maintenance schedule and small things tend to need replacing. I have the complete service history on my 08 and have found the following:
- Like many others have noted in this forum, make sure to flush the ABC system at regular intervals (some stipulate that 40k miles is sufficient).
- The cam magnets needed replacing just after two years and +27k miles (60k then again at 87k).
- I've encountered a couple of small oil leaks (oil cooler seal and breather hose), all repaired.
- The tires don't last long, brakes require replacement much more quickly as well as a bi-annual flush and list list goes on...

The one important thing to remember is that these were six figure cars when new so the SL ranks up there along with other high-end marques. Although severe depreciation allows us mortals (working stiffs) to purchase them, maintaining is another story. Besides the issues mentioned above, I've also had a nagging battery charging issue that lasted for months and it took 4 shop visits and close to $1,500 to correct. All in all, just around $5,500.00 was spent on my car since March 2017.

Another humble suggestion (actually two): Find one with ALL up-to-date maintenance records and the best shape you can. And either learn to wrench on these yourself or find an excellent independent shop. The shop I bring my car to is second to none and they're service/repair costs are 25% - 50% less expensive than the local dealership.
Just my thoughts...

Rudeney

As the saying goes, "There's nothing more expensive to own than a cheap Mercedes-Benz."

It's not that these are bad cars, they are just like fine wine and interesting women: they are complicated. Honda's and Toyota's don't use a pneumatic system for the door locks, trunk latches and interior stowage compartment locks. They don't have Active Body Control or electrically operated Sensatronic Brake Systems, fiber optic infotainment systems,fluid-filled suspension and engine mount bushing. Until very recently, they did not use CAN bus systems and even when they did adopt them, they are much simpler implementations that MBZ has been using for 20 year or more. Few cars use a dual-battery system. MBZ pioneered many of the system that modern cars use. A 20 year old MBZ is likely more technologically advanced than a 2 year old Toyota.

The staggered width performance tires on a RWD car will wear more quickly. I find that brakes last a long time. I'm used to getting over 50K out of MBZ OE brake parts. There are some maintenance items that should be performed on any car - like brake fluid changes - but only MBZ makes that part of their official schedule. Will the car die without a brake fluid change every two years? No. But will it perform better? Probably, but so would any car since brake fluid absorbs moisture which reduces its boiling point. Will you notice? Maybe, but maybe not unless you push the car to its limits. And those limits are much higher than that of the typical Honda or Toyota, etc.

If you have the skills, tools, and facilities to DIY, these can be very satisfying cars to own and maintain. If you are expecting a car that you can drive with little worries, and will rely on a mechanic for the occasional service, then you might want to reconsider unless you are willing to pay for that. Just as an oil change on these cars costs 5x more than on a Noda/Toyota, other services, will too.

carguyshu

no. early 63s (later model year r230s) have headbolt issues as well as all the other normal r230 problems. the reasons people claimed 03/04 were less reliable is that they aged out faster and they made more cars those years than all the rest combined making it a smaller sample size. the improvements made with ABC 2 are minimal (pulsation dampener on pump instead of in drivers fender, different valve block manufacturer with same functional design, and the computer at stops slightly opens/closes each valve instead of locking them closed, which slightly decreases pressure on the hoses (probably why they eliminated the return line accumulator as well)) that's it. that's all of the changes. throughout the years some hoses also got additional heat wrap or a bit beefier. the function and operation is unchanged and these small listed improvements barely are going to influence reliability. amount of heat cycles and heat subjected to the system are going to influence things more than any of these improvements. ABC is the biggest cost to owning an r230 car and the newer ones aren't going to be much better than the old ones once given enough time/age. this is just the simple fact of any hydraulic system.

05 they also switched from the d2b system to the MOST system on the radio, making it easier to go aftermarket. the rear window seal design was revised and slightly better, though there are still many that report leaking issues.

Big City NC

I echo all of the posts here – 1st SL - 2001 500 2nd owner car was bought sight unseen from AZ 2008 w/warranty and 47k miles – used the warranty once when the shifter malfunctioned and couldn’t get the car in park at the golf course lol, only had 4 forward gears and could get the key out the ignition $1395 dealer repair $75 deductible – since then normal maintenance and minor issues that resulted in no more than $3500 out of pocket since 2008 138k miles to date (this doesn’t include normal maintenance, tires etc.) Summer car semi-daily driver when weather is nice (I do have funds set aside for when the roof starts to have leak issues – hopefully by typing this that monster won’t come to visit me)

2nd SL – 2005 500 3rd owner by way of CA > GA > NC I did have this car inspected and it was giving a good report by my indie, also w/warranty 39k miles in 2010 – 2 big warranty repairs ABC rear shock, roof flap, motor/transmission mounts, rear oil leak the other was dash display pixelating combined dealer tickets $13575 out of pocket $500 nothing but normal maintenance and minor issues that resulted in no more than $1200 out of pocket since 2010 88k miles to date (this doesn’t include normal maintenance, tires etc.)

My opinion to your post as echoed by others is to - buy the best low mileage SL your money can buy with the options you’re looking for with a warranty – in both of my SL’s they found me when I wasn’t even shopping for a motor car at the time – and when you do find that SL treat it well and it’ll do the same to you.

Hope this helps.

LynnBilodeau

I have never posted here on the SL board. I was a regular for a while on the W215 board when my wife had a gorgeous 03 CL600 V12TT. During our ownership I performed all of the work on the car, including new coils, a new ignition module, changing spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, auto trunk opener, a couple of ABC hoses, ABC accumulators and valve block repairs, and the broken piece of plastic in the shifter. I did all the work myself, so I know what I am getting into with another one of these. I am considering another MB, this time an 06 SL65. I think it is Dr. Matt over on the W215 board that has a signature line that says something like these cars just aren't worth the headache unless they have in excess of 600 hp. I am fine with all of the known issues that pop up, and don't mind doing the work myself. Enjoy working on German cars.

I have searched for problems with the retractable hardtop on the SL65. Seems there are a few issues that seem to occur on most of them. Was interested in feedback from some you you SL owners related to the roof. Any help would be appreciated.

Lynn

Rudeney

The hydraulic lift cylinders will fail, and sometimes the pump will, but if you can work on ABC, the vario roof system is easy. The good news is that there are plenty of MBZ convertibles (CLK, SL, SLK) out there that go for 10-12 years an 200K miles with no hydraulic top issues.

carguyshu

you can have the pump and all the actuators rebuilt by top hydraulics. the front latch is the one usually first to fail.

shahram72

Hey this is my first post here. I did not want to start a new thread. A friend is telling me to get a lower mile example for more money (I am looking at the 2007) but it doesn't matter, due to the age they will all need ABC work, right? I spoke to my local Independent Mercedes mechanic and he confirmed this. He also said the engines and transmissions are solid on these cars. He said AMG models have crazy expensive brake jobs but did not say the motors were more problematic. I test drove one so far. A 2007 SL550 with 78K miles and it had a whine from the engine bay which I think is the ABC pump. IT worked fine, but it felt hard on the ride. I think it was in sport mode but when I pushed the ABC button, nothing happened. There is a lower mile one 400 miles from me it had 55K miles but it's several thousand more. This would not be my daily. My wife and I will share the car. I drive a 2016 Mustang (which oddly, was quieter inside) and wife has a '15 Cr-V, so we are covered on the practical end.

Rudeney

I would not buy anything from MY2004-MY2008 due to transmission issues. The 722.9 7-speed AT during that timeframe had issues with faulty speed sensors. It's a dealer-only job and costs about $1400. Of course once replaced, it's fixed. But they used sleeve bearings on the fluid pumps which will cause faster contamination of AT fluid and also become noisy, possibly even destroying the bell housing. surface where it sits. If you want a better infotainment system, then look at a MY2009 or later. Those have built-in Bluetooth hands-free, iPod and SD-card interfaces.

LynnBilodeau

Doesn't the 06 SL65 use a 5 speed auto trans? Does that one have issues?

Rudeney

Yes, no transmission worries about the AMG's that still used the 722.6 5-speed.

bobterry99

In recent years I have toyed with replacing my 2003 SL and 2000 S with newer models. I am thankful that Rodney made me aware of the issues with the 722.9 transmission. It won't cause me to avoid a vehicle from the affected years, but it will definitely give me pause.

I did a bit of googling and it seems that matters improved in MY2008 according to this.

Rudeney

I am not sure when the speed sensors stopped being a problem. I know they were still an issue with MY2007 cars as my CLK had the problem. For me, the fluid pump bearing is a bigger deal. As it wears, it dumps debris into the fluid and it can eventually destroy the bell housing. It very expensive to replace because the transmission has to be disassembled., gear by gear. The bell housing is also expensive to replace as it's forged maenesium.

BlownV8

The tranny issue on the 722.9 is not that big of a deal. It is expensive if you take to the dealership but once the valvebody/turbine speed sensor is replaced you are good to go. It's been around 150k miles since it was replaced. Not sure when or if they fixed the issue before the 230 went out of production.

ray0214

Rudeney

If you can't DIY, and you don't have a good budget for paying a shop, you might want to rethink your decision. Do understand, though, that most people come to the forums with problems.

ray0214

Rudeney

The ABC system went through some changes starting with MY2007. The pulsation dampener was moved to be attached directly to the pump, the valve blocks were redesigned and added check valves, and the programming was altered to periodically manipulate the valves at idle. This also required a redesign of the the main pressure hose. At some point in time, the filter was also revised to capture finer particulate. Hopefully these things will extend the service life of the system.

I have seen more than one instance of a burst main pressure hose on the MY2007+ system (like I experienced). This leads me to believe that there may have been a bad batch of those parts from the supplier. A new part is around $250 (+S&H. from various MBZ dealers with online parts stores) and takes an hour or two to replace. My concern, though, is that the part number has not been revised, so there may still be an issue. Some people have had luck splicing in a coupler or having the hose repaired by a hydraulic specialty shop. I kept my old hose in case the new one fails - I'll take it to a specialty shop for repair.

As for other points of failure, the system is full of seals and diaphragms in the accumulators, dampeners, valves and shocks that will eventually fail. It's just the nature of the materials in hydraulic systems and no reflection on any engineering deficiencies. I think periodic fluid and filter changes are good idea. The main concern is a leak that causes rapid fluid loss. When that happens, there are two concerns. One is that the car will drop and if the front wheels are not straight, they can impact the fenders. Also, when the pump goes dry, it can cause it it fail. Some peopel will cary a few pints of Pentosin in the trunk, just in case.

If you DIY, then there will probably not be any job costing over $1,000 in parts at a time. If you pay a shop, the parts will be 1.5 to 2x that price and the labor will be ridiculous - $500-$3,000 for something the average DIYer could handle in an afternoon. One thing that is immensely helpful is this blog:

http://mercedes-abc-drive-carefully.blogspot.com/

Read through that and it will help you understand the system and what may or may not happen over time.

ray0214

lagolag

I've had my 2003 SL55 since July 2008, bought it with about 87000 miles on the clock, as Jay Leno say, a Benz with 100.000 on the clock is hardly broken in!
The car I own was a daily driver until I bought it and the previous owner drove it between home and office, 225 miles daily!!!
I have replaced one control unit for the headlight, all four Discs and one rear calliper (after a day on the race track). I haven’t done anything to the ABC system so far (10 years !), might do a ABC service this spring, before things start to happen.
Cars are made to be driven, not to be parked in a garage, so the mileages are not an issue as long as the maintenance is done according to schedule. I would stay away from a car with many owners, you never know how these cars are served and used.
Fast and expencive cars are never cheap to own , regardless age!