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Hi, just to share my experience. I drive an '07 CL500(550) M273. I changed my pulsation dampener following Rudeney's steps. It is worth mentioning that mine was really, really stuck. And on top of that it was missing the 17mm nut on top. So to the one's with the stuck dampener - don't hessitate to chisel it loose. That was my only way. Just leave the car to get "asleep" for 30 min and hammer it hard .
Whining stopped, and the car rides more comfortably in C mode, or I just lie to myself on that. Did yours started riding more comfortably after the change?
I recently replaced my 2008 SL550 pulsation damper by removing the top front mount bolt and then just loosening the lower bolt. Removing both front bolts on the ABC pump looks like it gave you much clearer access to the damper, important to keeping ABC fluid uncontaminated. I would use your technique next time.
BTW, my damper was not damaged. Only the o-ring was bad and leaking profusely. I replaced the whole 10-year-old damper anyway. The new damper came with an o-ring. Am i correct in understanding that there is ONLY the single o-ring, and not the o-ring PLUS some sort of hydraulic seal? I read several references to hydraulic seals (i.e, plural) on the damper mount. I never saw evidence of a second seal.
I did this a few months ago on my 2012. I found that you do not need to remove the pump just to pull it forward. You just need to loosen the bolts so that it can be pried/rotated towards the drivers side and then can be removed. I might have had to loosen the line brackets as well but it was fairly obvious. There's enough room to pull it out and reinstall it. This saved a lot of time and because the dampener is on so tight, you want the pump to be locked in place anyway.
03-08-2022, 09:29 AM
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