When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Having had water ingress in to the driver side fuse box and SAM module (RHD) and still getting lots of issues (wipers only working on one speed, occasional ESP warning, no hot air from blower and seat belt locking not working) I have come to the conclusion that my drivers side SAM is bad. I have searched eBay and there are few available with same part number but different HW and SW numbers as well as the number in the bottom right of the label. Do i need to find a part with the exact matching numbers and will i need to get it programmed once i have a replacement?
Having had water ingress in to the driver side fuse box and SAM module (RHD) and still getting lots of issues (wipers only working on one speed, occasional ESP warning, no hot air from blower and seat belt locking not working) I have come to the conclusion that my drivers side SAM is bad. I have searched eBay and there are few available with same part number but different HW and SW numbers as well as the number in the bottom right of the label. Do i need to find a part with the exact matching numbers and will i need to get it programmed once i have a replacement?
I have tried replacement driver side SAM, passenger side SAM, HVAC control, and overhead console trying to fix intermittent AC. Although, replacements didn't solve the AC issue, I found out if you match the part number, 230 XXXX XXXX, all functioned worked fine without throwing codes. Same part number typically ends up being a part from the same year. Did not require programming.
I have installed a A SAM and I have the same hardware number the same software number and the same part number all three match and I was told I needed to get it programmed .. I was getting a ABS ESP Brake limning error , but before I could drive 15 miles without getting any errors now with the replacement SAM I can only drive 50 yards ..
There are settings in the SAM that require SDS for coding. This is "simple" coding - not SCN coding, so an SDS clone will do just fine. Theoretically, if the SAM came from an identical car, it would need no coding, but it's still worth a try to see if it fixes the error. Also, have you pulled codes form ESP? And did you pull codes from the old SAM?
Thank you for your reply it’s very helpful I did have my mechanic because I don’t have the proper tools pull some cards after the module was rebuilt and we got codes prior to the ABS module being rebuilt. What’s troubling is we’re getting two sets of coats prior to the repair in after it seems like I’ve got even more after the repair I will post them here when I get to work. Now the sand that I bought is the exact part The exact serial number and the exact hardware number unfortunately I don’t know what vehicle it came off of the eBay seller is not sure himself I bought it used obviously. I did not know that it’s possible to scan a Sam unit I’m wondering if I should have my old Sam checked and repaired is that possible what do you suggest rather than pay someone to program a used one should I look to see if I can get the original repaired
How do you pull codes from the Sam by the way you can actually do that separately because I’m wondering if I should send my original Sam in to get repaired do people do that
SO i will add the set of codes I got before the ABS module repair and picture 2 and 3 are after the repair and I will add picture of the same corrosion I found on some pins... The 1ST PICTURE IS THE CODES WE GO PRIOR TO THE ABS MODULE REPAIR ....
SO i will add the set of code I got before the ABS module repair and after and I will add picture of the same corrosion I found on some pins... The 1ST PICTURE IS THE CODES WE GO PRIOR TO THE ABS MODULE REPAIR ....
That is amazing information I was told to change my Sam because someone saw corrosion there what a waste of time I’m gonna put my old one back because with my old one those items worked perfectly fine on believable thank you so much I’ve decided I found a mechanic with some really really good quality diagnostic tools and his rate is only 125 an hour so I’m gonna take it to him and finally get this mystery solved my last mechanic I pissed away $700 listening to him some of these mechanics talk a big game and then they just take your money in screw you over
Please pardon my punctuation I’m using my cell phone text to speech well guess what I found out today a big big clue on the sea class model and it could be others apparently these fuse boxes on the driver side or the Sam set an a box that needs to drain and if it doesn’t well you’ve got some problems and here’s how it works underneath your master cylinder there’s a rail area that can hold water and there’s a drain there if you do not train out properly that fills up with water and that also causes the Sam to fill up with water Now what I did since I couldn’t find it is there are two air-conditioning hoses that go into this box underneath your master cylinder if you pop this plastic piece that is kind of a protector for these two lines it will allow drainage once I drained all the water out I heated up a long screwdriver took my fuse box out and made three holes in my fuse box my wires were soaked I’m praying that in four days on the wires dry my problem will be solved and hopefully my Sam unit did not to get corroded.
What I find interesting is is all this problem started A month after I bought the car the woman that on the car live on a hill and knows always pointing down hill so for her when it rained it never really filled up because it would drain out naturally I live on a flat surface so for the month that I bought the car it never had the opportunity to drain filled up with water and after I fixed a few things and got it registered and insured on its maiden voyage it shorted out on me and I realize that’s because after 45 rain storms that box filled up hopefully now that I drained it after five days I may get lucky and all is good again it’s a longshot but I know most of yoI I going to say there must be a corrosion but I just think it’s worth a shot to let everything dry for four days and take it out for a ride. One thing I have noticed is I’ve been able to drive it 3 miles before I get all the era codes than 8 miles than 12 miles then 19 miles so for some reason I’m able to drive further and further without error codes I don’t know what any of this means we’ll see
Update the sam is FINE the problem was the ABS or ESP module . The company the I sent out to repair it that said it was fixed that said it was tested was WRONG ..THEY BROKE IT and made it worse when I got it back my car was giving out even more code WHY ? because they damage it trying to fix it . I gave it too another better repair shop they attached it to the star diag machine. Well the fix was a used module !!!!! they programed it and no my car is fine.SO the company that I sent to fix broke it and made me look in another direction because I thought they knew what they we doing !! Lesson learned.. I'm getting my money back and I'm happy.
10-14-2018, 12:19 AM
