SL/R230: The fob key don't work
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 30
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From: Sweden
SL 500 R230 2002, E200 W211 2008, GLA 200 CDI 4MATIC X156 2015
The fob key don't work
Hi.
I have a problem with my remote lock and lock up. I can open the driver door if i am in a range of about 1-1,5 meters, but it will only be the drivers door that will be locked/unlocked.
I have had the car at an authorized MB workshop for days, they think it's some radio connected to this remote system that are defect.
They claimed that the info about this is not enough in the books they have about this car and remote system, so they don't know where the radios are located, and needs to put in another 20-30 hours testing.
This will be to expensive for me, so does anyone know where these radios are located in the car, or does anyone know where i can get this info?
The car is a MB SL 500 2001/2002 R230.
I have a problem with my remote lock and lock up. I can open the driver door if i am in a range of about 1-1,5 meters, but it will only be the drivers door that will be locked/unlocked.
I have had the car at an authorized MB workshop for days, they think it's some radio connected to this remote system that are defect.
They claimed that the info about this is not enough in the books they have about this car and remote system, so they don't know where the radios are located, and needs to put in another 20-30 hours testing.
This will be to expensive for me, so does anyone know where these radios are located in the car, or does anyone know where i can get this info?
The car is a MB SL 500 2001/2002 R230.
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Are you using the KeylessGo function, or the buttons on the SmartKey fob? Do the central locking buttons on the dash function properly? Also, if this is a MY2001 or MY2002, you have an R129, not an R230.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 64
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From: Moscow
SL600 2004
Does your key open only the door, or is it the door and gas tank? If its the second case, then you might have selective opening function enabled. Should this be the case, second pressing on the key should open the other door. You can turn this feature off pressing both lock and unlock keys at the same time for more than 6 seconds (light on the key will blink twice when done).
As for the opening range, SL has two systems for transmitting signal - radio and IR channels. Radio has the bigger range (10 meters) while IR has smaller range - 1.5 meters max and you have to point on the driver's door to open the car. But if you're using IR, you can use "comfort opening" i.e. when you point the key on the door handle (it has IR receiver built in next to the keyhole) from the range of 7-15 centimeters and keep the opening button pressed, the car will open windows and roof. It won't happen if you open the car via radio channel.
It's a stupid advice, but please check the battery - IR opening does not require working battery at all. But radio opening does.
As for component location, IR opening goes through antenna in the door handle and then to ignition. Radio opening goes through antenna located in the interior lighting and then to the ignition. Assuming athe scheme above, it might be defective and only IR opening should work.
As for the opening range, SL has two systems for transmitting signal - radio and IR channels. Radio has the bigger range (10 meters) while IR has smaller range - 1.5 meters max and you have to point on the driver's door to open the car. But if you're using IR, you can use "comfort opening" i.e. when you point the key on the door handle (it has IR receiver built in next to the keyhole) from the range of 7-15 centimeters and keep the opening button pressed, the car will open windows and roof. It won't happen if you open the car via radio channel.
It's a stupid advice, but please check the battery - IR opening does not require working battery at all. But radio opening does.
As for component location, IR opening goes through antenna in the door handle and then to ignition. Radio opening goes through antenna located in the interior lighting and then to the ignition. Assuming athe scheme above, it might be defective and only IR opening should work.
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One correction: The IR function of the SmartKey does in fact require a good battery in the fob to unlock the car. However, the IR function is also used for the SmartKey to communicate with the EIS (ignition switch) and that will work without a battery in the fob as the EIS inductively supplies current to the key when it is inserted.
It sounds to me like the IR function is working, but the RF is not. In this case, it might be a simple blown fuse. Check #57 and #58 on the rear fuse panel.
It sounds to me like the IR function is working, but the RF is not. In this case, it might be a simple blown fuse. Check #57 and #58 on the rear fuse panel.
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 31
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From: Travelers Rest, South Carolina
2015 ML350 (W166), 2010 E350 (sold), 2003 SL500 (sold)
One correction: The IR function of the SmartKey does in fact require a good battery in the fob to unlock the car. However, the IR function is also used for the SmartKey to communicate with the EIS (ignition switch) and that will work without a battery in the fob as the EIS inductively supplies current to the key when it is inserted.
It sounds to me like the IR function is working, but the RF is not. In this case, it might be a simple blown fuse. Check #57 and #58 on the rear fuse panel.
It sounds to me like the IR function is working, but the RF is not. In this case, it might be a simple blown fuse. Check #57 and #58 on the rear fuse panel.
I suppose it was only a matter of time before I would be faced with the dreaded Smart key/Keyless go fiasco, but I'm up for the challenge....could someone please explain why if you look @ the fuse chart/ information page for the R230 and check consuming unit (central locking) the fuse numbers listed are f9, f26, f38, f41, f57, and f71....please clarify.!!!
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The fuses varied by model year. I have compiled all the variuos version from WIS and have them here:
http://benzbits.com/r230/fuses/
For your car, those fuses you mentioned are as follows:
f9 = Driver's door control module, operates all functions in that door, including lock, window, mirror, KeylessGo antenna, etc.
f26 = Lower Control Panel, i.e. center console, which I think has an interior KeylessGo antenna
f38 = Overhead control panel, which is involved in decoding the RF signals from the SmartKey fob buttons.
f41 = Passenger door control module, operates all functions in that door, including lock, window, mirror, KeylessGo antenna, etc.
f57 = Rear hat shelf antenna module, which receives RF signals from the SmartKey fob
f71 = PSE pump, which provides pneumatic pressure to operate the door locks
It's worth checking all of these and leaving them pulled for a few minutes to reset the modules they provide power to.
http://benzbits.com/r230/fuses/
For your car, those fuses you mentioned are as follows:
f9 = Driver's door control module, operates all functions in that door, including lock, window, mirror, KeylessGo antenna, etc.
f26 = Lower Control Panel, i.e. center console, which I think has an interior KeylessGo antenna
f38 = Overhead control panel, which is involved in decoding the RF signals from the SmartKey fob buttons.
f41 = Passenger door control module, operates all functions in that door, including lock, window, mirror, KeylessGo antenna, etc.
f57 = Rear hat shelf antenna module, which receives RF signals from the SmartKey fob
f71 = PSE pump, which provides pneumatic pressure to operate the door locks
It's worth checking all of these and leaving them pulled for a few minutes to reset the modules they provide power to.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 31
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From: Travelers Rest, South Carolina
2015 ML350 (W166), 2010 E350 (sold), 2003 SL500 (sold)
Interesting !!!....I think it's worthwhile for everyone reading this to pay particular attention to Rodney's final recommendation of simply "pulling a fuse for a few moments to reset the modules". That's what I did to reset f57, f71 (they were in the same fuse box, were not blown)...BINGO...problem solved. Moral to the story....every repair doesn't have to be complicated !!!
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From: Netherlands
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Disconnecting both batteries for a while might be a more simple approach. This of course has been mentioned before, on other topics. Simple resets after that.
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I agree - when all else fails, disconnect the vehicle batteries. But, I'd try fuses first because disconnecting the batteries can reset the ECU readiness indicators, and if you live where you have to do emissions inspections, that can sometimes be an issue. Sometimes resetting all the readiness indicators doesn't work well when it's very cold.
Having said that, pulling fuse 71 reset the PSE pump. If this happens again, you probably have a leak that causes it to run continuously, which is probably the trunk latch (see the sticky).
Having said that, pulling fuse 71 reset the PSE pump. If this happens again, you probably have a leak that causes it to run continuously, which is probably the trunk latch (see the sticky).
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Joined: Apr 2019
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2009 SL550
Bad FOB key
My FOB key has continued to work to which it will lock, unlock doors and trunk, and start using the keyless button on console. The first problem started
with key in the ignition would turn on and do everything but start. But now when inserted wil not turn on or start, I can still start with keyless start only if I remove it from ignition. I only have 1 set of keys so trying other keys is impossible. I’ve changed batteries in FOB key, checked all the fuses in all of the fuse locations. I’m not sure if car has 3 keys by the Benz HQ,s so is getting new key from dealer the best route, I just hope it is only the FOB key and not the ignition switch that is bad. Would car start using keyless start if the ignition switch is bad? Any help/ suggestions?
with key in the ignition would turn on and do everything but start. But now when inserted wil not turn on or start, I can still start with keyless start only if I remove it from ignition. I only have 1 set of keys so trying other keys is impossible. I’ve changed batteries in FOB key, checked all the fuses in all of the fuse locations. I’m not sure if car has 3 keys by the Benz HQ,s so is getting new key from dealer the best route, I just hope it is only the FOB key and not the ignition switch that is bad. Would car start using keyless start if the ignition switch is bad? Any help/ suggestions?
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First of all, the batteries int he SmartKey fob are only used when you press the buttons on it for remote control locking, or use it for KeylessGo functions. When you insert it into the EIS (electronic ignition switch), it is powered inductively, so no batteries are needed.
If the SmartKey does not work in he EIS, then you either have a bad key or a problem with the EIS. It's hard to know which it is unless you have a spare key. As for using the KeylessGo function to start the car, as long is it works, there is really no difference in using that vs. the key in the EIS. I would get a second key, and to do that, you will have to go to the dealer and pay there prices.
First of all, the batteries int he SmartKey fob are only used when you press the buttons on it for remote control locking, or use it for KeylessGo functions. When you insert it into the EIS (electronic ignition switch), it is powered inductively, so no batteries are needed.
If the SmartKey does not work in he EIS, then you either have a bad key or a problem with the EIS. It's hard to know which it is unless you have a spare key. As for using the KeylessGo function to start the car, as long is it works, there is really no difference in using that vs. the key in the EIS. I would get a second key, and to do that, you will have to go to the dealer and pay there prices.
