SL/R230: BIG Red Battery warning
#1
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2008 SL550
BIG Red Battery warning
Hello All,
I’m a proud owner of an 08 SL550, I’ve been going through past posts and really enjoying the vast knowledge I’m absorbing here. I bought the car with the rear battery dead, I bought two trickle chargers to see if I can salvage them, unfortunately, the rear battery did not charge, once I disconnected the trickle chargers, the big red battery warning appeared. I went ahead and replace the rear battery and and also replaced fuse 71, and everything came alive, including all keyless functions, but the big red battery warning is still there, when I start the car. The starter battery has a date code of 07/2013, so I decided to replace it also, and the big red battery warning is still there 😩, the battery was fully charged before installing it. I was able to access the hidden menu and confirmed that the battery was measuring 12 volts, when the car is off, and over 14 , when I started the car.
at this point I’m thinking that it’s something else that I probably cannot fix.
I’m a proud owner of an 08 SL550, I’ve been going through past posts and really enjoying the vast knowledge I’m absorbing here. I bought the car with the rear battery dead, I bought two trickle chargers to see if I can salvage them, unfortunately, the rear battery did not charge, once I disconnected the trickle chargers, the big red battery warning appeared. I went ahead and replace the rear battery and and also replaced fuse 71, and everything came alive, including all keyless functions, but the big red battery warning is still there, when I start the car. The starter battery has a date code of 07/2013, so I decided to replace it also, and the big red battery warning is still there 😩, the battery was fully charged before installing it. I was able to access the hidden menu and confirmed that the battery was measuring 12 volts, when the car is off, and over 14 , when I started the car.
at this point I’m thinking that it’s something else that I probably cannot fix.
#2
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If the voltage at rest is only 12v, then that is the issue. It should be at least 12.5v. I had an alternator fail a few years back and replaced it with a rebuilt form Advance Auto. It works fine but the regulator is just slightly slow to kick in after starting, so every now and then, I get the battery warning, but checking voltage, it's does come up to 14v at idle. Usually, there is no need to clear any errors, but if your voltage is normal, it might be a good idea to invest in a diagnostic tool that can read all the car's systems. Of course MBZ's SDS (Star Diagnosis) is best, and a Chinese clone pre-installed on a used laptop can be bought for around $500. Other options are the Autel MD802 Elite, and the iCarsoft MBII or i980.
If the voltage at rest is only 12v, then that is the issue. It should be at least 12.5v. I had an alternator fail a few years back and replaced it with a rebuilt form Advance Auto. It works fine but the regulator is just slightly slow to kick in after starting, so every now and then, I get the battery warning, but checking voltage, it's does come up to 14v at idle. Usually, there is no need to clear any errors, but if your voltage is normal, it might be a good idea to invest in a diagnostic tool that can read all the car's systems. Of course MBZ's SDS (Star Diagnosis) is best, and a Chinese clone pre-installed on a used laptop can be bought for around $500. Other options are the Autel MD802 Elite, and the iCarsoft MBII or i980.
#3
Banned
Technically you are relating that the voltage is somewhere between 11.5 and just under12.5 volts. That's much too vague, of course, but it's also immaterial in this case.
#4
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I believe that my battery’s voltage was registering 12+ at idle, and 14+, when the car is started. I can get the exact number, I just thought when I see 12 & 14, that what’s count.
I believe that i messed up my battery’s fuse when I plugged in an antique trickle charger to the front starter battery. The rear battery is good because I used a modern trickle charger. That’s why even though I ended up replacing the the starter battery, the warning is still there.
I never had the red warning light till I finished trickle charging.
I believe that it’s the fuse underneath the passenger footwell, but I don’t think I’ll be able to access it. I just wish someone here will be able to do it for me 😀. I also don’t think I will be able to talk my local mechanic into doing it, he’s already skeptic about the car, I had to talk him into doing the oil change and rear battery.
Thanks...
I believe that i messed up my battery’s fuse when I plugged in an antique trickle charger to the front starter battery. The rear battery is good because I used a modern trickle charger. That’s why even though I ended up replacing the the starter battery, the warning is still there.
I never had the red warning light till I finished trickle charging.
I believe that it’s the fuse underneath the passenger footwell, but I don’t think I’ll be able to access it. I just wish someone here will be able to do it for me 😀. I also don’t think I will be able to talk my local mechanic into doing it, he’s already skeptic about the car, I had to talk him into doing the oil change and rear battery.
Thanks...
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My mechanic was unable to clear the code, he was able to clear the tire pressure monitoring but not the battery. I also noticed that the device he connected to the car was branded “Snap-On” I don’t know if that makes a difference. At this point, I’m leaning towards the fuse underneath the passenger footwell. Now The problem is finding someone to do it for me...
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#8
Banned
I believe you can test that premise by disconnecting the battery in the trunk, turning the ignition on, and within 30 seconds checking to see if you can adjust the steering wheel or seats with the doors closed. If those features work, the fuse is good.
Last edited by bobterry99; 02-19-2019 at 12:51 PM.
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Hmmm? Your response in my email is different from what I’m reading on the forum? Did you edit your response? This is what I saw: I believe you can test that premise by turning the ignition on and then waiting one minute to engage the starter. I believe if the fuse in the passenger footwell is blown nothing will happen when you turn the key.
#10
Red Batttery issue
I had the same issue after replacing my rear battery. I purchased the iCarsoft MBII and it read and cleared the fault. Take Rudeney's advice and buy something to read and clear faults, it is the only way to keep your sanity.
OP
OP
#16
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If you look at the very bottom of my post you will see where it reads:
Last edited by bobterry99; 02-19-2019 at 12:51 PM.
So yes, my post is edited.
The iCarsoft device you just ordered has perhaps 30% the capability of the diagnostic component of Star Diagnosis. I'd consider returning it.
So yes, my post is edited.
The iCarsoft device you just ordered has perhaps 30% the capability of the diagnostic component of Star Diagnosis. I'd consider returning it.
Last edited by bobterry99; 02-21-2019 at 04:19 PM.
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If you look at the very bottom of my post you will see where it reads:
Last edited by bobterry99; 02-19-2019 at 12:51 PM.
So yes, my post is edited.
The iCarsoft device you just ordered has perhaps 30% the capability of the diagnostic component of Star Diagnosis. I'd consider returning it.
So yes, my post is edited.
The iCarsoft device you just ordered has perhaps 30% the capability of the diagnostic component of Star Diagnosis. I'd consider returning it.
Do you have a link to that one?
I have a laptop to use, if needed...
Thanks!
#18
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If you look at the very bottom of my post you will see where it reads:
Last edited by bobterry99; 02-19-2019 at 12:51 PM.
So yes, my post is edited.
The iCarsoft device you just ordered has perhaps 30% the capability of the diagnostic component of Star Diagnosis. I'd consider returning it.
So yes, my post is edited.
The iCarsoft device you just ordered has perhaps 30% the capability of the diagnostic component of Star Diagnosis. I'd consider returning it.
#20
Banned
There are two options I suggest. Both involve obtaining a Dell D630 laptop (eBay has them for $50) and purchasing the remaining system components (multiplexer, cables, software pre-installed on hard disk) as a kit from aliexpress.com
A moderator named MAVA at Benzworld repeatedly makes a specific recommendation which he states has worked for himself and many others. It may take you a bit of time, but use that forum's search feature to locate that recommendation or perhaps you can send a PM to MAVA. His recommendation is about $350.
My preference is to search aliepress.com for "XENTRY" at a price between $199 and $300. There may be a handful of results. The quality of some offerings is better than others. You want to be confident you are purchasing a "multiplexer" which has brand-new relays on its circuit board, and I would be inclined to choose the cheapest one that has these.
A couple years ago a friend got a multiplexer with decades-old used relays (!), and it quickly failed...
A moderator named MAVA at Benzworld repeatedly makes a specific recommendation which he states has worked for himself and many others. It may take you a bit of time, but use that forum's search feature to locate that recommendation or perhaps you can send a PM to MAVA. His recommendation is about $350.
My preference is to search aliepress.com for "XENTRY" at a price between $199 and $300. There may be a handful of results. The quality of some offerings is better than others. You want to be confident you are purchasing a "multiplexer" which has brand-new relays on its circuit board, and I would be inclined to choose the cheapest one that has these.
A couple years ago a friend got a multiplexer with decades-old used relays (!), and it quickly failed...
Last edited by bobterry99; 04-26-2019 at 10:33 AM.
#21
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There are two options I suggest. Both involve obtaining a Dell D630 laptop (eBay has them for $50) and purchasing the remaining system components (multiplexer, cables, software pre-installed on hard disk) as a kit from aliexpress.com
A moderator named MAVA at Benzworld repeatedly makes a specific recommendation which he states has worked for himself and many others. It may take you a bit of time, but use that forum's search feature to locate that recommendation or perhaps you can send a PM to MAVA. His recommendation is about $350.
My preference is to search aliepress.com for "XENTRY" at a price between $250 and $325. There may be a handful of results. The quality of some offerings is better than others. You want to be confident you are purchasing a "multiplexer" which has brand-new relays on its circuit board, and I would be inclined to choose the cheapest one that has these.
A couple years ago a friend got a multiplexer with decades-old used relays (!), and it quickly failed...
A moderator named MAVA at Benzworld repeatedly makes a specific recommendation which he states has worked for himself and many others. It may take you a bit of time, but use that forum's search feature to locate that recommendation or perhaps you can send a PM to MAVA. His recommendation is about $350.
My preference is to search aliepress.com for "XENTRY" at a price between $250 and $325. There may be a handful of results. The quality of some offerings is better than others. You want to be confident you are purchasing a "multiplexer" which has brand-new relays on its circuit board, and I would be inclined to choose the cheapest one that has these.
A couple years ago a friend got a multiplexer with decades-old used relays (!), and it quickly failed...
It’s overwhelming to choose the right one, I don’t think I will be able to do this 😀. I also noticed that some are packaging it with a Lenovo X230, I have it, and will prefer using it.
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Update
I still have the battery warning, but I’ve noticed that most people with this warning, have on the other side of the display, “visit workshop”, mine does not display that, everything else is fully functional in the car, no difficulties in stating, even after a week of non driving. I’m currently trying to get my own star Diagnosis but it’s proving difficult, due to inexperience to choose the right components. I wonder if someone around 08902 with star Diagnosis can clear it for me and in help me buy my own😀. That’ll be great! Thanks...
#23
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From the current offerings on aliexpress.com I would buy this one. For "Color" choose "C3 with Dell hdd". It's $280.
You'll also need a Dell D630 laptop. For c. $50 you can get one with no hard drive. For memory 1GB is adequate, but it's probably worthwhile to pay a few dollars more to get 2GB.
You'll also need a Dell D630 laptop. For c. $50 you can get one with no hard drive. For memory 1GB is adequate, but it's probably worthwhile to pay a few dollars more to get 2GB.
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From the current offerings on aliexpress.com I would buy this one. For "Color" choose "C3 with Dell hdd". It's $280.
You'll also need a Dell D630 laptop. For c. $50 you can get one with no hard drive. For memory 1GB is adequate, but it's probably worthwhile to pay a few dollars more to get 2GB.
You'll also need a Dell D630 laptop. For c. $50 you can get one with no hard drive. For memory 1GB is adequate, but it's probably worthwhile to pay a few dollars more to get 2GB.
#25
Banned
No, because another option exists whereby the software runs on an external drive in a "Virtual Machine". All else being equal, this configuration is markedly slower. But I suppose it would work quite satisfactorily with that jazzy Thinkpad X220. I'd go for it and choose the "usb" color option from the posting I cited.