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Shifter won't go from drive INTO park. (opposite problem of stuck in park)
I've had a sticky shifter for a while in my 2007 SL550. I have gone through the repair process completely to check for the broken plastic level. I don't have that problem. I have an opposite problem.
About 1 out of 10 times I go for a drive, when I finish and go to shift from D to P, the shifter moves easily from D, through N but won't move past "R" to "P". It moves just fine back and forth from D, N, to R but won't go into park. If I am using keyless Go, most of the time I can simply press the keyless go button to turn off engine and it will immediately go into P (most of the time). If I am using the key, I don't seem to have the problem as much but when I do, it's harder to solve.
About 1 out of 10 times when I do have the problem, turning the car off with keyless Go, won't solve the problem and it still won't go into P. Then solving the problem becomes this complicated dance of turning the car on and off and shifting back and forth between D and N until eventually the combo does the trick and it decides to shift into P (last time it took 20 minutes to get it to work). It may then be perfectly fine for another 10 or 12 trips before it happens again.
I am pretty convinced it is something electrical/sensor related vs mechanical since many times by just turning the car off with keyless go, it shifts to P just fine. I know there is a cable to release the actual key that must be triggered by putting it in park, but I am not aware of a sensor that activates between going from D through N and R to P (just the key release cable once you get to P). Maybe something related to a reverse function?
Having gone through the whole broken plastic level replacement procedure, I wonder if I got something out of alignment slightly so that every once in a while, it doesn't line up. This is just a guess. Any advice is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks much!
If you are able to switch the engine off with the Start/Stop button, then the car thinks it is already in park - it won't shut off otherwise. That sounds to me like you may have have a linage issue.
Thanks Rodney. That’s a great observation. I guess it could have occurred when I disconnected the linkage to remove and check for the broken plastic lever in inside the shifter. Maybe I didn’t hook something back up correctly? Of course, the reason I did that is I was having trouble shifting out of park. But maybe the fact that I am having trouble now shifting into park (and it wasn’t the broken plastic lever) is an indication of a problem inside the transmission housing?
FYI, my transmission was replaced at 25,000 miles (under warranty, long story). That was in 2010. But the car only has 45,000 on it now (Garage Quenn, I know).
If it’s something that needs the transmission housing opened up, that’s beyond my pay grade. At least I have some info to feed my indy when I take it to him.
Rodney is of course correct that the car should not switch off in neutral with Keyless Go (only in park). But as you can see it does. Immediately, once off, it moves to park with no problem. This sure seems like an electronics issue to me.
Here is the normal operation taken immediately after the video above. This issue only happens 1 out of 10 times. The other 9 times everything works normally.
My indy said he would recommend the stealership but that immediately strikes fear in my heart (and a hole in my checkbook)! He thought it might be the shifter mechanism or a computer he referenced as being "on the side of the transmission". His recommendation about the dealership seemed to stem from the need to reprogram the keyless go in the SBC system (which he can't do). But I have read about people transferring the computer component from their existing shifter mechanism to a new one.
So I am looking for guidance and if it would be worth it to try and replace the shifter mechanism and move over the computer or if the dealership is the only option. If the latter is the answer, I have one more question -Anyone want to buy a 2007 SL550 with 45,000 miles on it!?
My guess is that it's a misalignment of the shifter linkage, but then again, it could be something broken inside the gearshift itself. One way to know - when in neutral, when you can't shift to reverse or park, does the car roll freely or does it act like it's locked in park? If it rolls freely like it's actually in neutral, then the issue is strictly in the shifter itself. if it's locked in park, then its the linkage.
When I had the exact same problem in my CLK, it turned out to be a faulty shifter mechanism. Replaced the shifter and it solved the problem. Question - When you shift through the gears, does the correct gear show in the display?
Thanks guys. Aussiesuede - not sure but I will investigate that as well as Rodney's question on whether Neutral is really Neutral.
Aussiesuede - did you replace the shifter yourself? If so, did you move the computer component over or have it reprogrammed by MB (assuming it need to for keyless go).
On the SL, you are not going to be able to replace the shifter yourself - it requires SCN coding since it's part of the security system. It's not that way on the CLK.
Thanks guys. Aussiesuede - not sure but I will investigate that as well as Rodney's question on whether Neutral is really Neutral.
Aussiesuede - did you replace the shifter yourself? If so, did you move the computer component over or have it reprogrammed by MB (assuming it need to for keyless go).
I replaced the shifter in my CLK myself,and that one did not need to be recoded. Unfortunately, a replacement shifter in the R230 must be recoded. But wait until you provide feedback to Rudeney/s suggestion to get the most optimal input as he's the pro with exact knowledge and his estimations are more reliable.
On the SL, you are not going to be able to replace the shifter yourself - it requires SCN coding since it's part of the security system. It's not that way on the CLK.
OK, well I confirmed today that where the shifter is shifted is actually the correct place. When it’s in neutral, the car says “N” on the dash and it can roll freely. Same with all the other gears. So it seems it is something in the shifter mechanism.
(Soapbox moment - for a car with a sticker of $106,000, I find these issues to be outrageous! I get things that wear out from age- like where the leather is separating from sun, or use related issues with the suspension. But for something like a shifter mechanism in a car that has been garaged and only has 45,000 miles on it to be defective, it’s sucks and makes me want to buy something else. OK, off soapbox)
So, what wcan I expect this to cost me at the MB dealership as they seem to be the only alternative? Thanks for the advice and for the therapy session!
OK, well I confirmed today that where the shifter is shifted is actually the correct place. When it’s in neutral, the car says “N” on the dash and it can roll freely. Same with all the other gears. So it seems it is something in the shifter mechanism.
(Soapbox moment - for a car with a sticker of $106,000, I find these issues to be outrageous! I get things that wear out from age- like where the leather is separating from sun, or use related issues with the suspension. But for something like a shifter mechanism in a car that has been garaged and only has 45,000 miles on it to be defective, it’s sucks and makes me want to buy something else. OK, off soapbox)
So, what wcan I expect this to cost me at the MB dealership as they seem to be the only alternative? Thanks for the advice and for the therapy session!
I'm very sorry to share, but my gut guess is the dealer is going to respond with a $2500 to $3000ish bill. They will charge for a brand new shifter, plus their extortionous labor.
Did you ever resolve your shifter problem? I’m having the same problem and found if you remove your foot from the brake pedal and reapply it very lightly the shifter will go into park. When you apply the breaks normally there is a solenoid that activates to allow you to shift out of park but for some reason when the solenoid is activated and you are in Drive it is not allowing you to shift back into Park.
Originally Posted by Sg45
I've had a sticky shifter for a while in my 2007 SL550. I have gone through the repair process completely to check for the broken plastic level. I don't have that problem. I have an opposite problem.
About 1 out of 10 times I go for a drive, when I finish and go to shift from D to P, the shifter moves easily from D, through N but won't move past "R" to "P". It moves just fine back and forth from D, N, to R but won't go into park. If I am using keyless Go, most of the time I can simply press the keyless go button to turn off engine and it will immediately go into P (most of the time). If I am using the key, I don't seem to have the problem as much but when I do, it's harder to solve.
About 1 out of 10 times when I do have the problem, turning the car off with keyless Go, won't solve the problem and it still won't go into P. Then solving the problem becomes this complicated dance of turning the car on and off and shifting back and forth between D and N until eventually the combo does the trick and it decides to shift into P (last time it took 20 minutes to get it to work). It may then be perfectly fine for another 10 or 12 trips before it happens again.
I am pretty convinced it is something electrical/sensor related vs mechanical since many times by just turning the car off with keyless go, it shifts to P just fine. I know there is a cable to release the actual key that must be triggered by putting it in park, but I am not aware of a sensor that activates between going from D through N and R to P (just the key release cable once you get to P). Maybe something related to a reverse function?
Having gone through the whole broken plastic level replacement procedure, I wonder if I got something out of alignment slightly so that every once in a while, it doesn't line up. This is just a guess. Any advice is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks much!
On the SL, you are not going to be able to replace the shifter yourself - it requires SCN coding since it's part of the security system. It's not that way on the CLK.
reading your input on the forum, I wondered if you can advise me .
I have a 2009 SL350 facelift stuck in park (not keyless) plenty of info on repair older models but I am confused as to whether they changed shifter design in 2009.
I hate the idea of the hammer method but don't have a vehicle lift so is it possible to remove the shifter from inside the car?. get to the shifter are clip.
I haven't done the job on an '09, but I'm 99% sure that you will have to remove the shift rod from underneath. While there might be some P/N differences, the basic geometry didn't change. You can pull the console cover, remove the three bolts holding the shifter, and give it a try, but I don't think you will be able to lift the shifter enough to even see the clip.
Did you ever resolve your shifter problem? I’m having the same problem and found if you remove your foot from the brake pedal and reapply it very lightly the shifter will go into park. When you apply the breaks normally there is a solenoid that activates to allow you to shift out of park but for some reason when the solenoid is activated and you are in Drive it is not allowing you to shift back into Park.
I’m having the same issue exactly. In the process of getting a replacement used shifter reprogrammed at an Indy shop near me. I’m doing the physical work myself.
The main reason for replacing the shifter is my KG doesn’t work. I get an error that the car is not in park.
But I think the issue of not being able to shift past N to P is related.
There is a safety feature built in to the shifter module using the same solenoid, that is supposed to keep you from shifting from D to R while in motion possibly speed related (above a certain speed). Possible that the circuit for that function is failing and just locks it up when the brake is applied.
reading your input on the forum, I wondered if you can advise me .
I have a 2009 SL350 facelift stuck in park (not keyless) plenty of info on repair older models but I am confused as to whether they changed shifter design in 2009.
I hate the idea of the hammer method but don't have a vehicle lift so is it possible to remove the shifter from inside the car?. get to the shifter are clip.
I didn’t have a lift the first time I pulled the shifter. I had a set of ramps and a good high-lift jack (with stands). It’s a pain but it CAN be done. There are a few other pieces that need to come off and the hardest is the under body insulation panel. You have to take it loose and slide it back. Total pain in the butt while laying on your back and squeezing under the car.
As I understand it, there is no way to revirginize an OE shifter, only a replacement one, so your indy shop might run into trouble on that end. DAS will tell you if the shifter is Series (original) or service. The gear selector is part of the immobilizer on the SL, so it is not as simple as recoding a module. The most common problem on these is cracked solder joints on the optical sensors. These can be repaired by removing the board and resoldering the sensors.
As I understand it, there is no way to revirginize an OE shifter, only a replacement one, so your indy shop might run into trouble on that end. DAS will tell you if the shifter is Series (original) or service. The gear selector is part of the immobilizer on the SL, so it is not as simple as recoding a module. The most common problem on these is cracked solder joints on the optical sensors. These can be repaired by removing the board and resoldering the sensors.
The replacement shifter CAN be virginized, it just not easy or cheap. My Indy shop uses a traveling car module Guru who has the necessary tools. There is also a place in Atlanta who will clone an old shifter and clear the new one for $400. I’m saving a bit off that number and it’s staying local.
BenzNinja can also perform the Virginia of if you are a member but I haven’t signed up with him yet. By the time I get the necessary hardware and get square with him, it will be several weeks and I’d like to get this knocked out sooner.
I haven't done the job on an '09, but I'm 99% sure that you will have to remove the shift rod from underneath. While there might be some P/N differences, the basic geometry didn't change. You can pull the console cover, remove the three bolts holding the shifter, and give it a try, but I don't think you will be able to lift the shifter enough to even see the clip.
Just to say thanks for your input...the problem cured itself.
Now working correctly and you can hear a faint click from the gear selector, I assume the brake switch got stuck in the cold spell
I have the same problem, a couple of times over the last few months the shifter would not move past neutral, I would turn the key off a restart the car and it would shift normally. My mechanic found two fault codes 200A and 240C, finding out what component is the exact culprit is the issue. The codes reference the shifter box, there are two switches inside the unit that the Mercedes parts department showed me on the screen, how can you tell what part it is. By the way I went through the stuck in park nightmare several years ago, Broken lever
and I replaced the broken plastic puck with the aluminum after market puck.
I believe that the P240C is implausible shifter position, which I think should also have the trans in limp mode. Chance are about 90% that you have bad solder joints on the optical pickups inside the shifter module. That should also throw a P1856 code in the shifter module if the scanner is capable of reading the ESM. If that is the problem, you have three choices: 1) repair the ESM board 2) install a new shifter from the dealer 3) install a used shifter that has been virginized.
Hello, I also have the same problem with 2007 SL550 Do you have the part number in question, please? Or what the official name of the part was/is? Thanks
Is the issue that you can't move the shifter mechanically into P - or out of P? Does it help to apply and release the brake pedal? If so then it's the pawl inside the shifter:
02-25-2019, 11:14 AM
