Robertj99

Does anyone know how to replace the center console armrest strut

gafitanu

As you open the bottom lid there are 2 holes right under the hinge that hide 2 torx screws. Take the screws out and you will be able to remove the cover behind the armrest lid. Now you have access to the strut, it is held by a pin with clip at one end and screwed into the other. I didn't want to pay the outrageous $72 at the dealer so I got the $8 generic and adapted it.

Leej

@Robertj99 , did you get your replaced? I replaced the worn out strut on mine and @gafitanu instructions are correct. I think the part number is 2309800064 (230-980-00-64)

I ordered mine from www.liftsupportsdepot.com and paid about $69 (you may be able to find it for less, or adapt a generic one as suggested by gafitanu).

One tip, once the cover behind the armrest is removed, the console lid can be opened up further. However, at first it didn't seem like it was opened far enough to relieve all the pressure on the strut. But I kept messing with the lid and eventually it opened even further (I can't remember if there was some release to get the lid to open far enough or maybe it just pulled open further), but eventually it did open far enough so I didn't have to compress the strut to remove/replace (went in easy after the lid was open far enough). Hope this makes sense.

Lee

Frederick NL

The MB p/n given above is correct.
The original strut is made by Stabilus.
Stabilus 6408PN 140N

Here’s some tips from a post I wrote earlier:
- unclip the pin that holds the strut at the eye (I made very sure the clip didn't fly away), the pin comes out easily
- the piston has a few mm's of travel left, so it will want to pop out either way- make it pop up, not down (easilly done)
- unscrew the end of the piston rod from the car's socket (I for me didn't know about this, took me so time to find out)

hth

Bhopkins

What? There is a strut for the center console armrest? And all this time I've been holding it open? I had no idea. Well, one more fix to add to my action register.

FiatL

I had no idea, either! I know what I'll be tearing apart this evening.

MBCO

Would you mind sharing the source and part number of the generic strut and any tips for adapting to r230? Thanks

Frederick NL

#4

MBCO

Where did you get the generic? What modifications did you make? Thanks.

Ivan750

I have disassembled it today to buy on Monday, I will tell you what price it has outside the Mercedes dealership

Frederick NL

The 140N suffix is important, as it refers to the pressure.

blueduramax

Been searching for the generic one you mentioned. Can't find it. Any clues?

MBCO

Gafitanu,,,Please provide source for “generic $8” strut. Best I can find is $69 amazon. Many thanks on behalf of all r230 owners who will suffer same fate.

Frederick NL

After some searching on the internet I did some soul searching and decided to go for the orginal Stabilus. This kind of money is peanuts compared to the cost of other parts. Consider doing yourselves a favour and buy the plug&play part. Besides, tampering with a (very) hi pressure cilinder is not without risk. Dixit (I have spoken).

MBCO

Agreed, the specs need to be identical on measurements, pressure being important along with dimensions. If there is a generic available, I was hoping the modifications would be simple, like removing/unscrewing a connector on the rod, or creating threads on the rod to match r230 connection, no tampering with pressures or springs. For the delta in $ it MIGHT be worth it, otherwise pay the piper as you have spoken.

blueduramax

Got the cylinder from Amazon. Good fit but now I can't close the console. Turns out the latch will not hold the lid down. Trying to figure out how to make the latch work now. Looks like wear on the mid tray. Any ideas?

MBCO

Perhaps there is a broken or missing plastic pieces on the mechanism. These cars are full of plastic that breaks. A picture might help too.

moparposterchil

I have the same problem... I replaced the strut (though the threads on the new one won’t bite like the old one) but my lid won’t stay closed because a plastic piece on the lower box of the console near the latch has broken off. I actually don’t know what it would cost or what it would take to replace that piece. I’ll try to post up a pic later to see what you guys think.

gafitanu

I apologize to everyone asking for the generic. For some reason I didn't see this thread again. I'll come back with complete info shortly.

gafitanu

Here is the generic. From www.austinhardware.com I bought the spring GSS 1728UA for $9. I removed (unscrewed) the 2 ends. I cut the shaft just under the thread and using an M6 thread die I threaded it for about 3/8". You can probably force the existing thread into the plastic brace but it appeared too flimsy to me and also this spring is a little more powerful than the original. From a plastic bar (rod) I made a piece approx. 3/8x3/8x1/2". Along the length of it I drilled a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the threaded stud of the spring tube. The thread will bite into the plastic nicely. Perpendicular to that hole and at a distance that will not interfere with the tube stud (when screwed in) I drilled a hole (I think it was 8mm or 5/16") for the pin.
I know that the amount of work I put in at a reasonable labor rate will probably be much higher than the dealer price however, I still get my blood pressure up when I think what the stealer wants for a $8 spring just because it's used in an SL. And I would do it again.
You can navigate the Austin Hardware site for a smaller force but I am having much fun with my cat being slowly lifted by the armrest.

MBCO

Many thanks. Seems straight forward enough. A little creative thinking and clever resourcing can go a long way to fixing some clearly under engineered or inferior quality parts. MB should be happy and support their after market with solutions other than forcing customers to buy assemblies when components will work.(I know Polly Anna thinking).

Bhopkins

Here is one from the same source that gafitanu provided, but it has 29 lbf, or about 130 N. That's a lot closer to the OEM. But it is priced higher. $30.

blueduramax

A tab on the mid-tray was gone. Drilled a couple of small holes-inserted bit of wire-built the tab back with JB weld. Took about 3 applications and some filing to get it shaped just right and IT WORKS!

MBCO

great work. It's a good feeling when you can fix and not replace. Thanks for sharing.

starfighter

WOW ! A 15 minute job.
The easiest maintenance job I ever did on any of my vehicles.
Time for a vodka and tonic.
Thanx for the posts, very helpful.