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Hi I'm new here. I purchased a 2005 SL-500 last year and the top lock cylinder went bad. I sent the car to a local shop that was recommended and had the cylinder replaced. When I picked up the car the roof did open however much slower then in the past. Since everything worked other than the top locking cylinder when I dropped it off I thought there may have been some air in the system and cycling it a few times would cure it. To my surprise when I got home nothing works including the roll bar. When I try to open it, the rear windows crack open, I hear the pump but nothing else happens. I'm thinking it's a micro switch that they messed up. My local guy cleared all the codes so I can't see if there is a fault or not. I cycled it until it timed out and still no new codes. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi I'm new here. I purchased a 2005 SL-500 last year and the top lock cylinder went bad. I sent the car to a local shop that was recommended and had the cylinder replaced. When I picked up the car the roof did open however much slower then in the past. Since everything worked other than the top locking cylinder when I dropped it off I thought there may have been some air in the system and cycling it a few times would cure it. To my surprise when I got home nothing works including the roll bar. When I try to open it, the rear windows crack open, I hear the pump but nothing else happens. I'm thinking it's a micro switch that they messed up. My local guy cleared all the codes so I can't see if there is a fault or not. I cycled it until it timed out and still no new codes. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I wanted to add I did print out the vario roof diagnostic aid pdf but without any DTC codes I'm not sure how to move forward. Is there anyway to reset the whole system?
There is no reset per se. But you can achieve what I presume you want to do by having the top completely open or closed and rebooting the roof controller software by disconnecting the rear battery for a few seconds.
I'd check the level of fluid in the roof pump reservoir. If that's fine, then next I would check to see if the system is losing hydraulic pressure due to a faulty cylinder. I've described the procedure for that several times and will look for a link.
Thank you for the info. I'll try disconnecting the battery. Fluid is good, not loosing any but I do know the pump is week. That being said everything was working prior to him replacing the one piston.
Disconnecting the rear battery didn't do anything. I also noticed that when I try to open the top I do not get the "top in operation" icon on the dash..
One possibility, as others have noted on here, is that replacing one cylinder could very well leads to leaks in other vulnerable cylinders given the higher pressure in the system. Just happened to me -- I replaced tubular frame cylinders and all of a sudden got a massive leak from my front locking cylinder.
I would make sure you're not losing fluid somewhere.
Not loosing any fluid, it's really not doing anything. I hear the pump running but nothing else happens, no movement, no "roof in operation" icon. Roll bar went up half way and stopped but was working perfectly prior. Got it to go down but heard a "pop" on the driver side when it did go down. Trying to add anything that might help.
If the pump is running and nothing moves, then either the hydraulic system main valve has failed to open, or an hydraulic cylinder has an internal leak. The following procedure will check several cylinders for such a leak.
Have the roof closed and the trunk lid open. Use a screwdriver to close the latch on the trunk lid so that the roof controller does not recognize the trunk lid is open. Locate the roof pump and valve block assembly in the left side of the trunk, and note that two retaining plates secure the numbered hydraulic lines to the block. Remove lines 30, 32, 33, and 34 and put their ends in some sort of container to catch any fluid which might emerge.
Have someone activate the roof control switch while you watch for fluid coming out of the disconnected lines and valve block. There should be very little or no fluid seen at all. Significant fluid from line 30 indicates a leaky front lock cylinder, 32 a leaky tubular frame cylinder, 33 a leaky left tubular frame lock, and 34 a leaky right tubular frame lock. Significant fluid from any of the exposed ports on the valve block suggest it is faulty.
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