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It's the must, latest Hardware upgrade + latest firmware
+ clone your expensive tune
Its all about passion.
Get a used latest hardware revision on ebay
virginize it (in this case read the 5P08C3 and set first hex's to 0 or F)
adapt it to your car with the "takeover function" in Xentry or online
Swap the two 29f400 to new ecu or like I did, read them out and write it to the 29f400's and solder them on the new Ecu
I now have 2 engine Ecus
ME2.8 has only 1 29f400 the ME2.7.1 is in fact a 2x 6Cyl ecu so it has two 29f400 for the Maps
careful not to much heat, better apply protector tape it could kill them (available from ebay new for 14$)
all this can be done with a cheap 100$ Willem programmer or for the ME2.8 with a cheap 150$ Ktag Kess clone (no unsoldering) or same method with Willem programmer
so much fun
I also cloned my Transmission tune to the latest hardware module
This can be done without soldering with Ktag - Kess in 10 minutes
You did not understand what i wrote, right? Does not matter, one day, you will make your own experience and you don't have to believe, what other people writing.
Originally Posted by bobterry99
Or for that matter the M119 engine between model years 1992 and 1993 losing 7 horsepower allegedly for the same reason as the M120?.
As far as I can discern, if your vehicle is operating fine and you have no warning lights, then there are no material benefits. If there is an update which will demonstrably enhance my enjoyment of my SL55, then I am eager to learn about it.
BobTerry99, Please talk about software, not old pre-R230 stuff. You come across as an expert, yet you say things like, "if there is an update which will demonstrably enhance my enjoyment of my SL55, then I am eager to learn about it" and:
"No need to start a thread on the AMG forum. Performance upgrades by way of both software and hardware have been discussed ad nauseum, and I have already invested hours surveying the options. "
So please for the second request, enlighten us on all your research and tell us which updates are Go and Which are not. No Hardware, just Software please.
Thank you in advance for sharing, look forward to reviewing.
So please for the second request, enlighten us on all your research...Software please.
You ask for software, while my focus has bee on hardware. At any rate, for me the logical choice for a software change is Pressertech here in the Atlanta metro area. There's good feedback from members who have used them, and their prices are reasonable. But most important to me is that they are local, so if there are any problems I can bring my vehicle to them.
This engine developed 389,402 & 408hp and 420–428 ft·lbf of torque for
the 6.0 L version. In 1992 only the M120 engine was offered in North
America in 402 hp (300 kW) format and from 1991-92 408hp In Europe. All
other years 1993-1999 have the 389 hp (290 kW) version.
But all this is interesting but all vintage electronics.
This tread is intended to proof that it is a good thing to check and update on 2001+ electronics as MB released those to make your car better.
If someone would check it out would see, that the fuel enrichment was back at later time without notice from Mercedes. It is easy, because it is a piece of software, only. But this you cant learn by repeating what other people say, instead you have to make own eperiences. But then, you cant say "What do you think? Me? No."
Here is a 1999 brochure from Mercedes which quotes 389 horsepower for the M120-powered M120 engine.
Originally Posted by AndreasHannover
If someone would check it out would see, that the fuel enrichment was back at later time without notice from Mercedes. It is easy....
Apart from trusting content from MBUSA, how would I do this?
Originally Posted by AndreasHannover
It is easy, because it is a piece of software, only.
Right. So, I should "easily" be able to find the firmware to a 2002 ECU, view the code, and discern that the full throttle enrichment had returned. Roger that.
Let's drop this discussion of the M120.
---------------------------
In my prior post I mentioned that I would personally use Pressertech to change my engine ECU firmware. I've changed my mind. OE Tuning is an MBWorld sponsor, and they are running a sale on tunings. Also -- and this is exceptional, I think -- they include a loader which allows you to switch between stock and tuned firmware freely and as often as you like. Their website is here.
In my prior post I mentioned that I would personally use Pressertech to change my engine ECU firmware. I've changed my mind. OE Tuning is an MBWorld sponsor, and they are running a sale on tunings. Also -- and this is exceptional, I think -- they include a loader which allows you to switch between stock and tuned firmware freely and as often as you like. Their website is here.
Tuners do not change firmware 95% of the time, they write maps in the dedicated 29f400 eeprom and if they add stuff to the firmware, they pull yours, edit it and return it to your ecu.
So if you get a tune with your modified firmware you did not upgrade to latest, you'll be stuck with it forever.
and this thread is not only about the engine ecu firmware but about all upgradable modules
Who to believe? You, or a paying sponsor of this website? Haven't you been wrong about one or two things on this thread already?
95% is not all tuners
Your knowledge is based on memories and reading only. I do the things every day as can be seen. nothing is wrong in any of my writings in this thread
Driving such a car with star diagnosis and looking for the lambda signal.
I believe that could work. Now to find a late-year SL600 -- a rare car even in a U.S. metropolitan area (Atlanta) which has much more than its share of M-Bs.
Nowhere seeing you work on any car. no pictures of any of your cars you might have owned in the past
It's hard to believe you ever touched any car at all apart changing fuses
This seems to confirm that everything you write is based on others people work and readings.
Please stop denigrating others people work. real passionates with dirty hands
I might make diagnostics and other mistakes here and there as many, but that is human.
I explore more and more every day and advance in the real life
conclusion:
Your centralising of other people's work and writings that certainly helps many members, but stop pretending doing any mechanics. Open a car library. you are a really participating member only since 08-25-2019, a newbie (50% of your post is bad karma contradiction)
only thing you seem to do is read, try to assimilate and paste. stop filling the forum with useless arguments and contradictions
The worst part is that by doing so you have the others defending themselves on your mean self-contradicting useless attacks and also fill up the forum with not-helping posts.
Stop parasitizing my original threads and systematic tailing, create your own original threads
Remove that obsession of tailing, contradicting me and others, let this forum be a nice positive place to read
Members are sick of reading these battles. Many times I feel ashamed being part of this, but have no choice to respond on your sick attacks sometimes.
I am sometimes excessive, in a bad mood, wrong, but beloved by all I work with and help, I have a long time confirmed reputation, stop wasting your time on me
You get slammed every single time and leave bad taste behind, you pollute.
ps
Vehicle(s) I drive are cars you have, not cars you might eventually have had
I could list you 27 cars I had as I started hobby mechanics and collecting at the age of 14
When I got my install done by Peter, he was kind enough to scroll through all modules on the car, and update 5 of them.
Despite the car being from late 2008, 2009 model, there was those 5 updates, not done by MB dealership, incl. ECU.
It is my experience that Dealerships don't care about updates, unless they are critical, or you explicit ask them to check all modules in the car, for updates.
In some country's they even charge you for each module update, with an update/software fee.
Today, I could not imagine to work on the car, without DAS/Xentry. There are so many thing that open up for DIY, that I would have to let the stealers do before, so the install including hardware, have payed it self back tenfold of times.
You ask for software, while my focus has bee on hardware. At any rate, for me, the logical choice for a software change is Pressertech here in the Atlanta metro area. There's good feedback from members who have used them, and their prices are reasonable. But most important to me is that they are local, so if there are any problems I can bring my vehicle to them.
Some of the tuners I have worked with and have been happy with ... Eurocharged & RaceIQ. Both are very reputable.
RaceIQ is my current tuner of choice on my SL55, for multiple reasons. I had their ECU + TCU tune at first (good results, not expensive, and with great support from owner Tony) ... and then I went to state 2 - swapped the Supercharger pulley, larger injectors, better cooling. The results are night and day. Car runs great with a lot more power than stock.
The ECU flash is done at your house, no need to take the car to any shop, as long as you have a laptop. For the transmission tune, you have to ship your TCU to either tuner. I've done it with both, it took about 3 days. Very much worth it.
The ME2.8 is a fairly easy ecu to tune that can be tuned fairly easy with some new OBD tuning plugs
You can also do this easily for free as long as you have some tuning files from the underworld and a 100$ ktag or kess clone.
This device allows you also to tune your transmission in 10 minutes depending on models.
The STANDARD rules are stages. If you get a stage 1 tune, the mapping is not for bigger injectors
It's easy to understand why: You add more fuel, but not more air that should be sone by a intake modification
changing hardware is part of stage 2 tunes
In the your case, if the tuner send you a device with a stage 1 tune and that you swapped your injectors to bigger, the tune is no longer optimal
if they send you a stage 2 tune that has been mapped for bigger injectors , they must have told you what injectors model to swap to and hardware to change
then now you have a stage 2 tune.
but this is the standard, now the real world
everything explained here:
What is the difference between stage 1, 2 and 3 tuning?
"The tuning world often refers to stages" You will often hear tuning companies and car tuners going
on about stage 1, 2 and 3 mods. What are these different stages and what do they mean ?
We hate to shatter the illusion but they are, in the main, fairly meaningless terms if applied to power gains
and cannot reliably be used to explain how much power a modification adds. There is no consistent
difference in part makers between their classifications of stage 1 stage 2 and stage 3 mods.
De-mystifying the Stage 1,2 and 3 tuning mods. The tuning industry use these terms but what do they mean and what can you expect from each of them?
For some companies
STAGE 1 - Cheapest options
STAGE 2 - Pay us more money and get more power
STAGE 3 - Pay loads of money and we'll build a track car!
For others
Stage 1 - Single bolt on parts or one time upgrade
Stage 2 - Two or more parts required
Stage 3 - Internal work is also needed
Then we get some working to power figures
Stage 1 = 20bhp more
Stage 2 = 40bhp more
Stage 3 = 100bhp more
I've even known some to be the first to offer a "stage 4 or 5 tune"!
So let's cut through these over generalisations of the terms and explain
what most car modifiers and tuners would put in each tuning stage.
So how do we classify stage 1, 2 and 3 upgrades?
Well there are some points that one should bear in mind that differentiate
between a "typical" mod in each stage. Stage
1 modifications
A stage 1 modification can be added in isolation.
This means that a true stage 1 modification part does not require any other
engine modifications to get it to work. Whilst other mods can help to raise
the power gains and realize the full potential of the mod they are not mandatory.
These are at the bottom end of the tuning scene in terms of the overall benefits you will get.
Stage 1 mods are generally a straightforward DIY fit and should work on a standard engine that is in good condition.
Some examples of stage 1 mods include, induction kits, panel air filters, sports exhausts, fuel pressure regulators,
a simple engine remap or timing changes, blow off valves/diverters and the like.
Stage 2 modifications
These stage 2 mods offer larger power gains than stage one but will usually require additional work or other parts
if you want them to work reliably. Some of the examples listed in stage 1 can also be regarded as stage 2 mods if
they are extreme in their ambition.
A stage 2 mod is usually a DIY fit but many will require specialist knowledge and tools.
Addition of a larger or hybrid turbo (requires a remap and fuelling upgrades as well as potential engine strengthening).
Fast road cams (need some engine dismantling and will need to be fitted with followers/lifters etc but ideally the engine
will need to be remapped). Supercharger kits (these need air intake, exhaust and mapping modifications before they can work at all.)
Stage 3 modifications
A stage 3 modification is regarded by most as a track day or motor sport modification.
Like stage 2 mods they will also need other mods to support them but they are usually far from ideal for road use as we will explain.
Take racing brakes for example. These can tolerate extremely high temperatures but they are pretty useless whilst cool.
On the road you can't afford to have to wait for the brakes to warm up before they operate effectively.
On the track they will run hot through each lap. An aggressive cam profile will also move the power band right up the rev range and
cause a very lumpy tick over making the car hard to drive in day to day traffic. Heavy duty clutches can be off or on in their nature
and make driving in slow traffic nearly impossible. A stage 3 race modified car will also need to be regularly overhauled and serviced.
The extra strain put on the cars engine will result in premature engine wear and if a car is used on a daily basis it will become very unreliable.
So to summarize stage 3 mods are the most aggressive and not the sort of thing you want to do on a road car.
You will also need to bear in mind that some tuning companies will just box their parts in packs labelled stage 1,2 and 3
and maybe even 4 or 5
Tuning is easy money for some, the same bottom line again and again
You have be able to trust the person as the average buyer has no idea of where they get the files from and what they do to your car firmware
I could list you tons of sources, from scams to real tuners that make their own files or even better, put your car on a Dyno
Personally I trust Kleemann. I used their tune I got directly from the CEO & founder Claus Ankjær as base. paid 2000$
The same thing with Xentry, all promise you the moon
everything is about trust that can be looked up easily in reviews on internet these days
07-02-2020, 01:25 PM
